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Overheating after pump and thermostat change

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Old 06-19-2012, 04:33 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by ShocknAwe
Its a pretty rad and not gonna lie, I went for it for both looks and function. Never will the cooling required by the car exceed the capabilities of the Mish. BE CAREFUL PUTTING THE SCREWS ON FOR THE FANS!!! The screws break off extremely easy and most likely you wont be able to get it flush like you want
Yeah I read infinimax96's install thread where he and several others broke those screws. I just had them out when I pulled my old radiator and they looked alright, but I'm gonna take my time with the whole thing anyway. I'm with you on buying for both form and function with the mishimoto. Very good looking radiator. And I haven't seen it in person, but from the pictures the build quality looks top notch. A good investment since I plan on having my max for years to come.
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Old 06-19-2012, 08:39 PM
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I hope everything works out. By the way I have that mishimoto radiator. It was worth it cooling wise and looks!

By the way just remember you may have some clearance issues with the mishimoto cap and the hood. Not a big deal but a lot of people have had that small issue.

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Old 06-19-2012, 09:57 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by deloa84
I hope everything works out. By the way I have that mishimoto radiator. It was worth it cooling wise and looks!

By the way just remember you may have some clearance issues with the mishimoto cap and the hood. Not a big deal but a lot of people have had that small issue.

Thanks, I hope so too. I can't wait till it gets here. Yours looks like it fits perfectly. Any clearance problems with your hood? My max was actually in a low speed collision (previous owner...I had to replace the front bumper, grill and somehow the driver side corner light but the headlight was fine ) and the hood was bent upward slightly in the front and middle. That might actually end up being a good thing if it means clearing the cap haha. If not, I don't mind the look of hood spacers in the back.

Also, the grommets are pretty worn out on my top radiator brackets. Anyone replace these along with the radiator? I'd assume they can be bought at a dealership. I wonder if just the grommets themselves can be replaced.
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Old 06-21-2012, 01:06 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Maxima Spec-R
Thanks, I hope so too. I can't wait till it gets here. Yours looks like it fits perfectly. Any clearance problems with your hood? My max was actually in a low speed collision (previous owner...I had to replace the front bumper, grill and somehow the driver side corner light but the headlight was fine ) and the hood was bent upward slightly in the front and middle. That might actually end up being a good thing if it means clearing the cap haha. If not, I don't mind the look of hood spacers in the back.

Also, the grommets are pretty worn out on my top radiator brackets. Anyone replace these along with the radiator? I'd assume they can be bought at a dealership. I wonder if just the grommets themselves can be replaced.
I did have a slight clearance issue. All I did was tap the under the hood with a hammer and a flat head screw driver and that seemed to do the trick... You may actually be ok

My grommets were gone even in this picture. I saw some universal ones at pep boys. Think they were asking $10 for each or something like that don't remember but Nissan for sure sells them. I will admit I was being cheap but I picked some up from a sentra in a junk yard that were actually in decent shape both for $5 haha

I do remember some guys on this forum used a caulking gun with polyurethane to fill these and that seemed to work well too.
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Old 06-21-2012, 08:13 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by deloa84
I did have a slight clearance issue. All I did was tap the under the hood with a hammer and a flat head screw driver and that seemed to do the trick... You may actually be ok

My grommets were gone even in this picture. I saw some universal ones at pep boys. Think they were asking $10 for each or something like that don't remember but Nissan for sure sells them. I will admit I was being cheap but I picked some up from a sentra in a junk yard that were actually in decent shape both for $5 haha

I do remember some guys on this forum used a caulking gun with polyurethane to fill these and that seemed to work well too.
Yeah hopefully that hood bend will actually do more than just look awful.

Haha well if the sentras work, then why not? I might buy mine from the dealer...just depends on how insanely overpriced they are. I've considered fitting some pieces of rubber into the gaps, but only temporarily.

That gives me an idea about the caulk. I have some ultra grey left from the water pump replacement. I bet I could use the old radiator as a mold and fill in the gaps around the prongs on the radiator. Then just really carefully use a screwdriver to break them loose and swap them over to the mishimoto. Not a perfect fix, but could help out till I do something more long term.
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Old 06-21-2012, 01:23 PM
  #46  
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And its fixed

Got the Mishimoto installed immediately after it arrived from Fedex, slowly filled it with a gallon of toyota red and a gallon of distilled water and took the max out for about a 10 mile drive on the highway. Stayed cool from 0-80 with ~6000 rpm shifts and at over 100 while passing. Feels great.

Thanks to all of you for your suggestions and helping me through this. I'll edit the first post with the solution and install pictures.
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Old 07-08-2016, 09:03 AM
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Overheating

I changed the thermostat and the cooling sensor. Problem still exists. What next.
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Old 07-08-2016, 10:19 AM
  #48  
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Have you bled the air from the system by raising the car about 1 foot with the radiator cap off , then running the car for at least 20 min ?

Heater set on hot, blip the throttle a few times when engine is warm.
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Old 08-25-2017, 04:44 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by DennisMik
Steam is water that got too hot and boiled. If an engine is working correctly, this will not happen as the water pump circulates the water though the radiator where it will get cooled to keep it from boiling. If the coolant level gets too low, then the water pump can't push the water to and through the radiator for proper cooling and the water will boil. It creates a downhill effect. Not enough water circulation and the water boils. Steam pressure builds up and the radiator cap lets the steam out. Steam is water in a vaporized form. When that steam escapes, you now have less water in the radiator. Viscous cycle.

If the engine has truly overheated the water till it boils, the steam is routed to the plastic overflow tank by the passenger fender. The steam will cool and condense back into water and fill up that tank. Is this happening?

If the engine is full with coolant, the lower radiator hose will be hot when the thermostat opens and allows coolant to flow through the radiator. If the lower hose doesn't get hot, you don't have any water flow. 3 reasons for no water flow - low coolant level, plugged radiator or bad water pump.

Sometimes it may be necessary to raise the front end of the car up when you fill the radiator, but when you first fill the radiator/engine with coolant, you should start the engine and let it warm up and get the thermostat to open. You do this with the radiator cap off. When the thermostat opens, any air that is trapped in the engine will now get pushed to the radiator and it will gurgle out of the radiator since the cap is off. This process will push some of the coolant out as the air is pushed out. But after the air escapes, if you look into the radiator, it will appear empty. Add coolant as needed and you should see the coolant flowing in the radiator. And like Asand1 said, fill the radiator all the way up to the bottom of the radiator cap. Also make sure the overflow tank is filled.

You don't have a water control valve in your engine. That was an experiment that didn't accomplish anything and was only used in the 2000 and 2001 year models.
Nope my 1994 Nissan Maxima has one I just broke the nipple off of it. It was plastic and just shattered in my hand went everywhere it's not made anymore so went to Ace hardware got all metal garden hose pieces and bypassed it works fine so far almost 2weeks no leaks oh secondary perpose water hose screws right on its also a radiator flush
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