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I don't mean to hijack this thread, but this is a thread on an old topic that has some relatively recent activity with members who have been down this pike already. I will admit that I failed to do sufficient research in the front end so I am paying for it now. A couple months back, I had some help and changed out a rusted radiator support. Things went well; we welded and fastened everything up good with minor setbacks. However, I made the biggest blunder ever... I did not purchase an OEM support. Now I am faced with the following predicament. Any suggestions on how to rectify this? I am contemplating getting .25 inch steel welded but I said to myself let me first consult with you all this time.
i'm still an active member and if you read what i did it's similar to what this guys trying to do. it's got a little rust around it but still holding up nice and strong!!!
Originally Posted by bbsitum
I'm here still always too. 5 years after and 70K miles my L profile is still strong. It work and it is not temporary solution.
Originally Posted by KP11520
Mine was SHOT. So much so that my flex pipe needed replacement prematurely from too much movement.
And wouldn't ya know it..... during the year before, or maybe even longer, I took it to Baron Nissan (Greenvale, NY) for oil changes, they never mentioned it until I told them they were morons for NOT alerting their customers of this potentially dangerous condition and they'd never see me again!
Get under your car and really look. Very few are still OK if you live anywhere near snow and salted roads. NEVER trust the Nissan Dealers. They don't fix these and consider it "out of their scope" of alerting it to Maxima customers.
I think Morons is as far as I can take it here! But they deserve a full cussing!
damn man, i've never seen new metal rip apart like that unless it's dime thin which apparently that was/is. i would do an oem replacement, not that expensive and well worth the money as you found what happens with the aftermarket ones. gl
damn man, i've never seen new metal rip apart like that unless it's dime thin which apparently that was/is. i would do an oem replacement, not that expensive and well worth the money as you found what happens with the aftermarket ones. gl
Yeah I know right, me neither...thanks for the quick reply and wishes for luck, I will need it! But to be clear, are you suggesting that I do an OEM replacement of the lower part only or the whole nose like what I did the first time?
am i correct in stating that you did the whole piece before with the aftermarket upper and lower? if so, then yes i would replace that entire assembly again. although it looks ok, it's the same cheap metal as the lower and i wouldn't trust it. replace the entire section if you plan on keeping her and don't want that front end to collapse in an accident, period. i haven'y had my max for almost 11 years by accident, common sense and searching the crap outta this forum and asking a lot of questions allowed me to keep the best car i've ever owned the longest i've owned any car. troof!!
Last edited by max ride 41; 01-31-2016 at 09:20 PM.
Yes max_ride_41. That is correct. I replaced the entire upper and lower assembly with that aftermarket junk. FACTS on everything you said about searching, questions, and common sense . The only thing though is I cannot take on that job as we speak; maybe I could tackle it in the summer. I customized a whole bunch of items in the front end (that is not in the picture) and it would be suicide for me to just drop my car off anywhere and see how it would be "reassembled." With that said, could you or anyone help me to come up with a trustworthy and durable patch for the issues in post #41, which would not entail much disassembly but rather reinforcing?
If anyone else has any input/tips/suggestions, please feel free to share.
Originally Posted by max ride 41
am i correct in stating that you did the whole piece before with the aftermarket upper and lower? if so, then yes i would replace that entire assembly again. although it looks ok, it's the same cheap metal as the lower and i wouldn't trust it. replace the entire section if you plan on keeping her and don't want that front end to collapse in an accident, period. i haven'y had my max for almost 11 years by accident, common sense and searching the crap outta this forum and asking a lot of questions allowed me to keep the best car i've ever owned the longest i've owned any car. troof!!
So when this tread somehow bumb and I'm here by the chance - L profile is still strong 4 years and 9 months from installation. I'm close to my 5 years expetation
I don't mean to hijack this thread, but this is a thread on an old topic that has some relatively recent activity with members who have been down this pike already. I will admit that I failed to do sufficient research in the front end so I am paying for it now. A couple months back, I had some help and changed out a rusted radiator support. Things went well; we welded and fastened everything up good with minor setbacks. However, I made the biggest blunder ever... I did not purchase an OEM support. Now I am faced with the following predicament. Any suggestions on how to rectify this? I am contemplating getting .25 inch steel welded but I said to myself let me first consult with you all this time.
Thanks man for posting it in my tread, proof me to NOT buy cheap LRS.
So when this tread somehow bumb and I'm here by the chance - L profile is still strong 4 years and 9 months from installation. I'm close to my 5 years expetation
Well. Part or LRS that radiator sit at sink down about 2,5" together with radiator. So radiator sit only at two bottom holders. With some wonder front part of LRS still hold but is only question of days when will LRS completely crack to left and right of my L plate. So it held for 5 years and 90K miles. That two infamous O rings behind chain covers are leaking and I have some serous rust at sides and bottom. Car is 230K and engine work flawless, aside of course of O rings. Trany is in good shape to. Speakers works, air condition work.
Will drive like this around till buy something at police auction. I30 is going for car haven. Beside stupid LRS and O rings (that I didn't fix newer then make tennis ball marks every night at parking) it was the best car as is amount of repair in question that I ever had. Loking behind if would install proper, as members said here OEM, LRS I would have a car still always. If someone interest for pictures I will do a few. Anyway my experiment is over after 5 years and 2 months.
Did wrong why I didn't try to put foam in LRS before collapse. Maybe I will try to do it if would be capable to lift part of LRS that sink. But I do not believe it will work, albeit it is better then can thin LRS that above member post pictures of.
i cut mine out and used some like 3x1" rectangular steel tubing reinforced with 1x1" tubing (overkill for sure).
Yeah. I will just buy a 4' L 1"X 1" profile from Menards and put at bottom of LRS and then strap with something across probably entire radiator support. Worth tray.
I can report that chain is much better solution then L plate. Car feel much more sturdy and transmission shift little better because actually engine is little higher now as with L plate engine sink about 1". It is better solution and much easier to do. If would know this in 2010 would go with chain and foam in LRS in 2010.
now i've seen it all, really dollar store fix dude. i can see a ton of rust on that max and i know that's not a safe way to fix that problem. lower rad support replacement oem is the only way to go. my .02c
01-31-2016, 03:50 PM
. The only thing though is I cannot take on that job as we speak; maybe I could tackle it in the summer. I customized a whole bunch of items in the front end (that is not in the picture) and it would be suicide for me to just drop my car off anywhere and see how it would be "reassembled." With that said, could you or anyone help me to come up with a trustworthy and durable patch for the issues in post #41, which would not entail much disassembly but rather reinforcing?
