Schmelly's swap thread
#47
Quick update, the swap is finally CEL free, and passed the OBD emissions test legally.
For a while I had a reoccurring code, P1335, on my stock 97 5MT ECU that did not show up on either my 95 5MT or 96 5MT ECU's. Swapping out the crank sensors did nothing.
Fast forward to October 2013 when I had an occasional misfire from what I thought was a bad ECU connector. I replaced the connector and among all 100+ wires, I only crossed two of them a 12v line and a 5v line. Took me months of off and on troubleshooting to figure that out, and in the meantime none of my emissions sensors were working properly (since they were receiving 12v instead of 5v). After I corrected that power wiring issue, P1335 has yet to return.
tl;dr I have absolutely no idea what caused P1335 or what made it go away.
For a while I had a reoccurring code, P1335, on my stock 97 5MT ECU that did not show up on either my 95 5MT or 96 5MT ECU's. Swapping out the crank sensors did nothing.
Fast forward to October 2013 when I had an occasional misfire from what I thought was a bad ECU connector. I replaced the connector and among all 100+ wires, I only crossed two of them a 12v line and a 5v line. Took me months of off and on troubleshooting to figure that out, and in the meantime none of my emissions sensors were working properly (since they were receiving 12v instead of 5v). After I corrected that power wiring issue, P1335 has yet to return.
tl;dr I have absolutely no idea what caused P1335 or what made it go away.
#48
So I ran a little over 30k miles on my set of VQ30 NGK VPower Copper Spark plugs. Looking into other spark plugs I noticed VQ35 spark plugs were nearly twice as expensive, after some searching and comparison at the parts store it turns out that the threaded portion of the spark plug is longer.
So this whole time I've been running VQ30 spark plugs in my swap It made sense to me at the time, as the spark plugs that came with the engine were drenched in oil to leaking spark plug tube seals and my VQ30 spark plugs only had 10k miles on them. I had also assumed the spark plugs were the same since many other parts were interchangeable.
Now that the spark plug electrode is located properly in the combustion chamber, I am anxious to dyno again. My previous dyno with header back exhaust, nwp spacers, bop made 236whp and 221 ft lbs.
My fuel economy has also increased from mid 26s to a low 29. I only have one tank on these new plugs, but I will be sure to update as I put more miles on these plugs.
So this whole time I've been running VQ30 spark plugs in my swap It made sense to me at the time, as the spark plugs that came with the engine were drenched in oil to leaking spark plug tube seals and my VQ30 spark plugs only had 10k miles on them. I had also assumed the spark plugs were the same since many other parts were interchangeable.
Now that the spark plug electrode is located properly in the combustion chamber, I am anxious to dyno again. My previous dyno with header back exhaust, nwp spacers, bop made 236whp and 221 ft lbs.
My fuel economy has also increased from mid 26s to a low 29. I only have one tank on these new plugs, but I will be sure to update as I put more miles on these plugs.
#50
EGR system was removed when I installed the 00vi back in 2010. I left the EGR temp sensor and solenoid plugged in. It used to randomly throw a code for low flow, but I haven't gotten that code in a few years.
#51
#52
I was waiting for the day your figured all of this out. Those spark plugs will def show gains. I knew something was up but I didn't want to say it because it looked like you did everything legit. Stupid spark plugs. I can't wait for your new dyno.
#53
Cali spec, 97 SE manufactured in late '96.
By all means speak up next time, its how we all learn -myself especially.
I have quite a bit of intake mods in the works along with a tune for the next time I hit the dyno. Now that I have the proper spark plugs, I am a bit more confident that I can hit my goal of 270 whp without fooling around under the valve cover.
I have quite a bit of intake mods in the works along with a tune for the next time I hit the dyno. Now that I have the proper spark plugs, I am a bit more confident that I can hit my goal of 270 whp without fooling around under the valve cover.
#56
I already have a V1 on my 3.0 so will be installing that on the 3.5
It was suggested I do ACL race bearing, main bearing, and Rod bolts so it will handle the boost. I heard 3.5 rods are weak link of the 3.5
BTW you got rid of your 3" Cattman exhaust?
#57
Hmmm I see. Why would you want to reinstall an EGR? I don't think there is anything beneficial about it. Just supposedly cleaner emissions.
I already have a V1 on my 3.0 so will be installing that on the 3.5
It was suggested I do ACL race bearing, main bearing, and Rod bolts so it will handle the boost. I heard 3.5 rods are weak link of the 3.5
BTW you got rid of your 3" Cattman exhaust?
I already have a V1 on my 3.0 so will be installing that on the 3.5
It was suggested I do ACL race bearing, main bearing, and Rod bolts so it will handle the boost. I heard 3.5 rods are weak link of the 3.5
BTW you got rid of your 3" Cattman exhaust?
I plan to hook up a simple LED to the EGR solenoid to see when the EGR operates, and possibly adjust the EGR operation with Nistune.
Nice, I remember reading Cardana's swap thread. He had the same intentions, but I don't think he has gotten around to reinstalling his yet.
Nope, still have my Cattman 3". I'm considering making a lighter exhaust, but that's a ways down the road.
#58
New personal best of 13.994@99.88. Best trap of the night was 100.78, and a new best 60' of 2.20.
Running 225/50R15 Toyo Proxes R888 on two 3rd gen wheels up front. With these tires, my 60' averaged high 2.2x. On my street tires I will usually be lucky to manage a low 2.3x. I'm still working on improving my launches, I had the best results launching at 3-3.5k with these tires after a burnout.
I also had a lot of trouble shifting into 3rd gear, moreso than usual, which resulted in many mid 14 sec passes at 98mph or so.
Wild Horsepass Motorsports Park (formerly Firebird International Raceway) in Chandler, AZ
Track Elevation: 1080ft
Density Altitude at time of my best run: 3560ft
Current setup:
+02 VQ35 w/3.0 timing, 7th gen injectors (Green Denso's), DE-K FPR, return fuel setup on a VQ35 fuel rail
+AEM Dryflow, 3.5" velocity stack, Q45 MAF, OEM 7th gen intake tubing
+PFTB
+NWP BOP
+NWP 5pc spacers
+Altima headers w/ 3" y pipe back
+2J-Racing UDP
+Nistune ECU [7000 RPM rev limit, AFR low 12s, ignition timing left untouched]
Race weight: 3016lbs with driver, tools, battery jump pack, and a little over 1/4 tank of gas.
Running 225/50R15 Toyo Proxes R888 on two 3rd gen wheels up front. With these tires, my 60' averaged high 2.2x. On my street tires I will usually be lucky to manage a low 2.3x. I'm still working on improving my launches, I had the best results launching at 3-3.5k with these tires after a burnout.
I also had a lot of trouble shifting into 3rd gear, moreso than usual, which resulted in many mid 14 sec passes at 98mph or so.
Wild Horsepass Motorsports Park (formerly Firebird International Raceway) in Chandler, AZ
Track Elevation: 1080ft
Density Altitude at time of my best run: 3560ft
Current setup:
+02 VQ35 w/3.0 timing, 7th gen injectors (Green Denso's), DE-K FPR, return fuel setup on a VQ35 fuel rail
+AEM Dryflow, 3.5" velocity stack, Q45 MAF, OEM 7th gen intake tubing
+PFTB
+NWP BOP
+NWP 5pc spacers
+Altima headers w/ 3" y pipe back
+2J-Racing UDP
+Nistune ECU [7000 RPM rev limit, AFR low 12s, ignition timing left untouched]
Race weight: 3016lbs with driver, tools, battery jump pack, and a little over 1/4 tank of gas.
#60
Thanks, I've broken 100 a few times since the swap. Looking to pick up a couple more mph once I finish up with my bbtb and tune it.
I have done a fair amount of weight reduction including but not limited to aluminum bumper reinforcements, coilovers, cf hood, no spare/jack, no heatshields, gutted trunk, mechless head unit, power mirrors removed, 17lb lawn mower battery. With a full tank of gas it should weigh in around a hair under 2900lbs without driver, tools, and jump pack.
I have done a fair amount of weight reduction including but not limited to aluminum bumper reinforcements, coilovers, cf hood, no spare/jack, no heatshields, gutted trunk, mechless head unit, power mirrors removed, 17lb lawn mower battery. With a full tank of gas it should weigh in around a hair under 2900lbs without driver, tools, and jump pack.
#63
So I take it you're not using an AFPR, just an OEM DEK? Great thread!
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