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Weird issue with LCA replacement. Help appreciated!

Old 03-27-2013, 02:44 PM
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[Solved] Weird issue with lower control arm replacement. Help appreciated!

Guys,

I'm a long-time lurker (couple of years), first time poster.
The myriad of info on this site got me confident that I could replace my lower control arms (specifically, the right side whose bushing was shot).

I replaced the left and right set with OE replacements, but ended up having a weird issue.
Once the LCAs were replaced, the right wheel was turned almost 25 degrees to the left side. The left wheel was straight ahead. Got it towed to an alignment place b/c it was undriveable this way. The guys there fought with it and ultimately came back (and fully refunded my money) and said that no matter what they did with the tie rods, the wheels could not be made to be straight ahead to spec. They got it close, but my steering wheel is off by nearly 70 degrees!

They said they lengthened the tie rod on the both sides to their extremities and still couldn't get it to align properly.

What am I missing? Alignment was correct with the old LCA (when it wasn't pulling under acceleration). I had the right side LCA replaced again (just in case the 1st replacement was bad) and I have the same result.

Any ideas? I can't think of what else could cause this.

Thanks guys.

Last edited by jazzmang; 04-08-2013 at 07:18 PM.
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Old 03-27-2013, 03:37 PM
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I would check your axles make sure they are fully seated in the tranny and hub. They may have also be separated at the joints. I think it has to be one of the things I mentioned.
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Old 03-27-2013, 03:45 PM
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Did you torque all the bolts with the weight of the vehicle on the wheels with a torque wrench? If not that is another thing you should do even if this doesn't fix your problem. I put jack stands under the control arms to do this.Keep us posted and good luck.
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Old 03-27-2013, 07:22 PM
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Old 03-28-2013, 04:55 AM
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The control arm and strut holds the wheel in position. Control arm basically places it in position. The strut allows it to move up and down, tie rods rotate the assembly to steer.
Tie rods steer from the rear of the hub, therefore pushing the right hub from the rear outwards makes the wheel turn left. The only way a control arm would effect this is if it has placed the wheel inward, towards the inner fender more.
Did you compare the size of the new and old unit? We're the bushings seated correctly and their holes centered, specifically the rear pivot? Do you still have the old arm? If so, see if you can reinstall with different results. That will point you to a defective part. Did you purchase the arm from Nissan? Have you verified its indeed for a 4th gen?

Comparing everything new to everything old. Something isn't correct.
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Old 03-28-2013, 08:47 AM
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Just did the driver's side control arm on my '97. You will recall that there was a big pin with three bolt holes in it that secured the front bushing in the control arm. That pin is asymetrical, so make sure that you did not reinstall that pin assembly upside down. I'm not sure it would even mount up incorrectly, but if it did it would mis-position the whole control arm and could be causing your issue. Please report back with what you find out. Good luck.
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Old 03-28-2013, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by njmaxseltd
The control arm and strut holds the wheel in position. Control arm basically places it in position. The strut allows it to move up and down, tie rods rotate the assembly to steer.
Tie rods steer from the rear of the hub, therefore pushing the right hub from the rear outwards makes the wheel turn left. The only way a control arm would effect this is if it has placed the wheel inward, towards the inner fender more.
Did you compare the size of the new and old unit? We're the bushings seated correctly and their holes centered, specifically the rear pivot? Do you still have the old arm? If so, see if you can reinstall with different results. That will point you to a defective part. Did you purchase the arm from Nissan? Have you verified its indeed for a 4th gen?

Comparing everything new to everything old. Something isn't correct.
Agree with everything here. I am curious though as to what did you loose down to replace these control arms? When I last did mine, I only had to release sway bar end link and the bolts under the car and by the ball joint. Nothing else was touched not even tie rod or knuckle bolts or axle....
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Old 03-28-2013, 05:39 PM
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All great advice and ideas guys. I'll investigate and report back.

Thanks!
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Old 03-28-2013, 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Trini Boom
Agree with everything here. I am curious though as to what did you loose down to replace these control arms? When I last did mine, I only had to release sway bar end link and the bolts under the car and by the ball joint. Nothing else was touched not even tie rod or knuckle bolts or axle....
I only loosened the items you mentioned. These bolts, sway bar end link, and ball joint. Could a loosened sway bar end link cause an issue like this?
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Old 04-08-2013, 07:16 PM
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Solved. Dorman OEM replacement part number 520-520 are apparently all made out of spec.
Bought a different manufacturer's part from O'Reillys. All good. Aligned perfectly. Thanks for the advice again guys.

Last edited by jazzmang; 04-08-2013 at 07:18 PM.
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Old 04-09-2013, 03:42 PM
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Moral of the story . . . don't buy crap parts.
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Old 04-09-2013, 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by jazzmang
Solved. Dorman OEM replacement part number 520-520 are apparently all made out of spec.
Bought a different manufacturer's part from O'Reillys. All good. Aligned perfectly. Thanks for the advice again guys.
That had to be far out of spec for another manufacturer to come within spec...maybe a bad batch or incorrectly labeled LCA..we may never know unless someone else here has luck with Dorman LCA.
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Old 04-09-2013, 05:14 PM
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dorman arms here (both). no such issues were present during my install. got the parts from rockauto.
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Old 04-09-2013, 05:56 PM
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I got dorman from local supplier as well, lasted me for 3 month... went ES after and never regretted
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Old 08-25-2013, 06:04 PM
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Just wanted to chime in - I put a dorman on my 95 a couple weeks ago - it fit up except the rotor rub on extreme left turns. I'm gonna live with it, but don't recommend it.
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Old 08-25-2013, 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Alaskus
Just wanted to chime in - I put a dorman on my 95 a couple weeks ago - it fit up except the rotor rub on extreme left turns. I'm gonna live with it, but don't recommend it.


Helpful hint mang...



if a thread has been dead since April...

no point in bumping it 4 months later... (unless, you are telling someone else, who has bumped said thread that it isn't a good idea, then by all means, it is fine.)




stay classy.
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Old 08-26-2013, 08:02 AM
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It is adding to the doorman part experience though. Good for future users looking at LCA replacement to have plenty of part review so to speak and troubleshooting issues they may come across. /shrug
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Old 08-26-2013, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Phromethius
It is adding to the doorman part experience though. Good for future users looking at LCA replacement to have plenty of part review so to speak and troubleshooting issues they may come across. /shrug
^^^ this.
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Old 08-27-2013, 10:32 AM
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Agreed. This is a good resource to have!

Top LCA is correct size.
Bottom LCA is Dorman fail size.

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Old 08-28-2013, 04:05 AM
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got a new one off ebay for 99 SE with same issue. dont recall if it was a dorman
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Old 08-28-2013, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by jazzmang
Agreed. This is a good resource to have!

Top LCA is correct size.
Bottom LCA is Dorman fail size.

Holy crap. That's a big mismatch there is they measured that wrong. It definitely looks the same or else I would have said that's for a different car.
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