Oil pan gasket
#7
#8
The problem with gaskets on pieces like that is they don't have smooth surfaces and gasket maker matches the imperfections better than a gasket.
#10
I tried the fel pro oil pan gasket and it leaked, even after tightening the bolts in the leaking areas, no go.
But I have seen posts here of people who've had success using it, somehow.
Thought of using both rtv and the premade but it's pointless, use just rtv ultra grey or black.
But I have seen posts here of people who've had success using it, somehow.
Thought of using both rtv and the premade but it's pointless, use just rtv ultra grey or black.
#15
God I hate rtv. If you've ever had to scrape rtv off of something you know what I mean. I once came across a vehicle that had the air intake rtv'd because the person was too lazy to order a gasket.
Anyways, you can put a gasket on it and hope that it doesn't leak. Or you can hate yourself if you ever have to scrape the rtv off.
My 0.02c: gasket with a drop of rtv between bolts and on corners.
Anyways, you can put a gasket on it and hope that it doesn't leak. Or you can hate yourself if you ever have to scrape the rtv off.
My 0.02c: gasket with a drop of rtv between bolts and on corners.
#23
RTV is color coded. Each color has special properties. Some colors are good with oil, some with gas, some are high temp, etc.
http://www.permatex.com/products-2/p.../gasket-makers
http://www.permatex.com/products-2/p.../gasket-makers
Last edited by BlackThornDemon; 08-22-2013 at 10:46 AM.
#26
LOL that guy was an idiot. He should not be a mechanic if he made that mistake. Unless he had more than just the timing cover mount off, the engine is not going to move.
#28
Anyone tried an anaerobic sealant like Loctite 518?
It only cures in the absence of air, so any extra that you get inside the pan edge when you torque it up just dissolves in your oil. In contrast, the extra RTV breaks off and ends up in your oil pump screen in hardened form. Another make I work on insists on it for just that reason.
As an added benefit, it's easy to scrape off at replacement time as it cures hard, unlike RTV which is always a RPITA.
It only cures in the absence of air, so any extra that you get inside the pan edge when you torque it up just dissolves in your oil. In contrast, the extra RTV breaks off and ends up in your oil pump screen in hardened form. Another make I work on insists on it for just that reason.
As an added benefit, it's easy to scrape off at replacement time as it cures hard, unlike RTV which is always a RPITA.
#30
Black RTV for oil pan FTW.
Just use a continuous bead and finger tighten the bolts, let it sit for a few hours, then snug it up the rest of the way.
No extra squeezing out that way and you will never need to redo it.
Just use a continuous bead and finger tighten the bolts, let it sit for a few hours, then snug it up the rest of the way.
No extra squeezing out that way and you will never need to redo it.
#31
I got it here: www.eeuroparts.com, but you can get it at a lot of autoparts stores, Amazon, etc. Permatex has a version too - look for anaerobic sealant.
#33
False, while you are right about the lower oil pan, the upper does require two crescent seals. One for the crank pulley, and the other underneath the rear main seal.
#34
Yes, I am aware that it uses those two seals but my statement is not false. It is not a gasket that covers the upper oil pan correct? 90% is RTV while the 10% is those half moon seals.
#35
I'm currently doing my 1998 VQ30DE upper and lower oil pans and I'm going to use RTV only the way it came....I will let it cure for more than 10 hrs b4 I put oil in it though, Use at least an 1/8" bead of sealant!
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