Can I install an engine from 97-99 into a 96 without add-ons?
#1
Can I install an engine from 97-99 into a 96 without add-ons?
Newbie question. I have a 96 maxima. Just want to replace the engine. Will any years 95-99 drop in without any modifications and/or extra parts? Or do I have to stay within 95-96 models to get a direct drop in? I want the least amount of hassle. Just want to get the car up and running. Thanks.
#4
Go for a 98.....with that you will get the "newest" 4th gen motor without too much of an emissions hassle. My car is a 98 California, and it has none of the emissions craziness of my friend's 99I30 california motor. Also remember that the 99 Californis models have swirl valves which you would probably disable to put into your 96 car. The swirl valves are part of the lower IM. So even if they're disabled, they'll be there. Don't know if it matters much, but food for thought.
#5
I have saved a few engines on my EBay watch list. Some are under 100K for around $700. The reason why I am swapping motors is because my current motor is over 300K and it leaks coolant from the block by the water pump. Shop wants $1400. Want to save this car as I've invested a new paint job & some other things. Figured its time to swap before the motor dies on me traveling. I will however junk the old motor and switch over all parts missing. I appreciate the input guys. I will keep an eye on a 98 motor and update on the progress!
#6
Water pump replacement on a 4th gen should cost about $400-$500, parts and labor. Something tells me that your shop thinks they have to pop the whole timing cover. That would be wrong. You only need to open the access covers on the timing cover. The timing chain tensioners should be replaced as well if needed since you are working in that area. Sortof like when you replace the throwout bearing when you're doing the clutch. You're right there, may as well do both.
#8
As stated you probably just need a new water pump. When the pumps seals go bad, there is a weep hole in the pumps housing that directs coolant out between the timing cover and block. This keeps coolant out of your oil which would kill the bearings and internals.
At 300k you may as well do a compression test first, just to make sure there are no internal issues. No need to pay for a water pump job on an unhealthy motor.
At 300k you may as well do a compression test first, just to make sure there are no internal issues. No need to pay for a water pump job on an unhealthy motor.
#9
I agree Jsutter. Motor is still strong. No loss in power or holding speed. So I'm assuming compression is still good all across. My other question is will it matter if I get a Cali-Spec engine? I live in the mid-west. Does the emission tubing make the Cali-spec? I will be transferring all external hoses, wires, and parts from the donor engine. Wondering if that will effect a Cali-Spec engine from performing.
#11
You don't need a new engine, you need to change the water pump. They have a weap hole that leaks letting you know the seal has gone bad on the water pump. Changing the water pump is easy, remove both black covers on the timing cover and unscrew the two tensioner bolts and remove it and don't drop it, remove three bolts holding in waterpump and remove. It's so easy a novice can do it. It's more about what not to do than what to do. Don't drop anything in the timing case because if it falls in a place of interference you'll have to retrieve it. When you remove the bolts on the tensioner, hold the tensioner firmly so you don't drop it it the timing cover, don't drop any screws in the timing cover, installation is reverse of removal. And there are pictures and videos:
I did it as a novice in a backyard with hand tools because everyone told me it couldn't be done and how difficult it is.
Last edited by Quickywd01; 08-28-2013 at 11:07 AM.
#13
If the water pump has no play when you get it out, just replace the two O-rings and slap it back in there.
Aftermarket sucks IMO and from what I hear, OEM almost never goes bad, just the O-rings.
Aftermarket sucks IMO and from what I hear, OEM almost never goes bad, just the O-rings.
#14
i started leaking coolant through the weep hole one winter like 3 years ago cause the car sat a couple of times for a few days. i topped it off, and started starting maxy every morning so the fluid would'nt sit and it stopped leaking. im at 250,000 now and hoping for at least another 50,000 b4 engine swap and all that bs. good luck
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