Car Overheating
12-11-2014, 08:24 PM
#81
Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 113
So tomorrow I'm taking her to Pep Boys and getting an OIL Change.
Also... since I put Bar's Leak in a few months ago (and I saw a bunch of the brown dust sticking to the sides of my funnel when I burped her tonight) I was thinking about getting a coolant flush done as well. I assume this will get rid of most of the Bar's Leak that may be floating around in the system? Thoughts on the flush?
Also... since I put Bar's Leak in a few months ago (and I saw a bunch of the brown dust sticking to the sides of my funnel when I burped her tonight) I was thinking about getting a coolant flush done as well. I assume this will get rid of most of the Bar's Leak that may be floating around in the system? Thoughts on the flush?
Hope you had your cooling system flushed real good. That brown stuff is all up inside your cooling system.
12-11-2014, 11:48 PM
#85
You can diy the flush. Drain and fill half a dozen times with distilled water ($0.99/gallon). After the last drain, fill the radiator with straight antifreeze for a final solution of 50/50.
I like the prestone all makes all models.
Sent from my XT1060 using Maxima
I like the prestone all makes all models.
Sent from my XT1060 using Maxima
12-12-2014, 12:12 AM
#86
Now I dont want to scare you, but I would be vigilant. Keep your eyes and ears open for head gasket problems after all the overheating and listen for chain tensioner noise because there was a lot of force at work to separate the shaft and impeller like that.
12-12-2014, 07:14 AM
#89
Glad you got it solved! 
Water alone in a cooling system will no doubt freeze up in low temperatures. That's the purpose of using at least 50% antifreeze.
As all others mentioned flush out that cooling system.
Would like to know what caused that pump to corrode. Were you filling your system with distilled or tap water?
Water alone in a cooling system will no doubt freeze up in low temperatures. That's the purpose of using at least 50% antifreeze.
As all others mentioned flush out that cooling system.
Would like to know what caused that pump to corrode. Were you filling your system with distilled or tap water?
Last edited by jholley; 12-12-2014 at 07:38 AM.
12-15-2014, 08:29 AM
#90
Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 113
A few months ago I had a pinhole leak between the engine and windshield. You couldn't even see exactly where it was coming from and my mechanic lives 45 minutes away and he was tied up. I kept adding tap water almost every day for a few weeks. I didn't want to add antifreeze cause it was just going to leak out anyway and I would have spent hundreds of dollars on antifreeze.
While I had the pinhole leak I would get some hot heat, then it would go cool, then hot again, then warm, etc...
I put Bar's Leak in and a couple days later the pinhole leak was fixed. I go to Pep Boys and buy 50/50. I planned on putting it in the next day. THAT night it was the coldest night/morning of the season (this was just a few week ago.) When I went to start car in morning she made a loud grinding noise when I turned the key. She would not start. I tried a few more times and eventually killed the battery. When I jumped her she started right up and no noise when I turned her over. I thought it was very odd but the noise was gone. I think the Water Pump separated when I was turning her over (just a hunch.) Anyway from that point on I had to drive with the Radiator Cap off if I wanted to go anywhere cause she would overheat quickly with Rad Cap ON.
While I had the pinhole leak I would get some hot heat, then it would go cool, then hot again, then warm, etc...
I put Bar's Leak in and a couple days later the pinhole leak was fixed. I go to Pep Boys and buy 50/50. I planned on putting it in the next day. THAT night it was the coldest night/morning of the season (this was just a few week ago.) When I went to start car in morning she made a loud grinding noise when I turned the key. She would not start. I tried a few more times and eventually killed the battery. When I jumped her she started right up and no noise when I turned her over. I thought it was very odd but the noise was gone. I think the Water Pump separated when I was turning her over (just a hunch.) Anyway from that point on I had to drive with the Radiator Cap off if I wanted to go anywhere cause she would overheat quickly with Rad Cap ON.
12-15-2014, 08:45 AM
#91
Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 113
Ok Friday I went to Pep Boys to get my oil changed (I'm going to do the flush myself.) They almost didn't want to do the oil change because they saw oil leaking from the bottom of the car (where oil usually leaks.) They showed me and I saw oil and antifreeze slowly dripping from the bottom. I mean very slowly - maybe 3 drops in 4 minutes.
They didn't want to change the oil fearing the engine would seize right after they changed the oil. They didn't want to be responsible if something happened. I finally convinced them to just do it. They did and documented what they saw just in case. Now it's Pep Boys so I don't know what they they, how much, etc...
Anyway Friday I had to make a long drive 90 miles away and come home Sunday morning (another 90 miles.) I was nervous cause she just got "fixed."
The heat and temp gauge were perfect... needle just below halfway the whole time... No fluctuation, etc... Th heat worked perfect.
I don't know if I did any damage while I was driving her during her issues but she drives great now. She has 182k on her. and she's a 98.
They didn't want to change the oil fearing the engine would seize right after they changed the oil. They didn't want to be responsible if something happened. I finally convinced them to just do it. They did and documented what they saw just in case. Now it's Pep Boys so I don't know what they they, how much, etc...
Anyway Friday I had to make a long drive 90 miles away and come home Sunday morning (another 90 miles.) I was nervous cause she just got "fixed."
The heat and temp gauge were perfect... needle just below halfway the whole time... No fluctuation, etc... Th heat worked perfect.
I don't know if I did any damage while I was driving her during her issues but she drives great now. She has 182k on her. and she's a 98.
12-15-2014, 08:47 AM
#92
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 2,979
Your "pinhole leak" could be from a heater hose. The "bars leak" might have sealed the leak. For a little while.
If you really do have a bad hose it will start to leak again. You have still not fixed the original issue. Replace the hoses. You will have two heater hoses and also a smaller hose that attaches to the upper intake manifold and a small pipe under that somewhere.
Please replace the leaky hose NOW.
I do not want you to have the same issues again.
If you really do have a bad hose it will start to leak again. You have still not fixed the original issue. Replace the hoses. You will have two heater hoses and also a smaller hose that attaches to the upper intake manifold and a small pipe under that somewhere.
Please replace the leaky hose NOW.
I do not want you to have the same issues again.
12-16-2014, 08:26 PM
#93
Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 113
Advice noted.
Ok I spoke too soon... This morning I had another 35 mile drive - stayed at my destination for about 3 hours - and then drove home another 35 miles. On the drive back (about 10 miles in to the drive) I was in bumper to bumper traffic. While I was stopping and starting I saw the needle start to get high. I blasted the heat, the needle lowered, but then went back up again shortly after. I pulled over and let her cool down for about 20 minutes. I took rad cap off and put water in. The Radiator took about half a bottle of water I had in an Antifreeze bottle. I put cap back on, started her up, and she was fine. I drove for about another hour (I had to make some stops.). She was fine. I have about 40% antifreeze in right now.
I think the slow leak (coming from the bottom) I was talking about at Pep Boys, leaked enough to have a negative effect.
The pinhole hose leak is fine still.
With that said... Did I do some damage to the engine while all this stuff was going on these past few weeks... Driving with cap off, needles fluctuating a lot during the time, overheating, etc...?
At most I need this car for about 9 months (and 10k worth of miles.). I'm not going to keep it forever.
My next car will be much newer. I just need her patched up. I have a decent size dent on my driver side rear. Aesthetically she's not good on the outside. Plus I have front bearing/axle issues.
I know you guys are against stop leak but instead of fixing the problem and spending more money that I want to, do you think engine block leak stuff could help? I think I may have done some damage to my head gasket...
Ok I spoke too soon... This morning I had another 35 mile drive - stayed at my destination for about 3 hours - and then drove home another 35 miles. On the drive back (about 10 miles in to the drive) I was in bumper to bumper traffic. While I was stopping and starting I saw the needle start to get high. I blasted the heat, the needle lowered, but then went back up again shortly after. I pulled over and let her cool down for about 20 minutes. I took rad cap off and put water in. The Radiator took about half a bottle of water I had in an Antifreeze bottle. I put cap back on, started her up, and she was fine. I drove for about another hour (I had to make some stops.). She was fine. I have about 40% antifreeze in right now.
I think the slow leak (coming from the bottom) I was talking about at Pep Boys, leaked enough to have a negative effect.
The pinhole hose leak is fine still.
With that said... Did I do some damage to the engine while all this stuff was going on these past few weeks... Driving with cap off, needles fluctuating a lot during the time, overheating, etc...?
At most I need this car for about 9 months (and 10k worth of miles.). I'm not going to keep it forever.
My next car will be much newer. I just need her patched up. I have a decent size dent on my driver side rear. Aesthetically she's not good on the outside. Plus I have front bearing/axle issues.
I know you guys are against stop leak but instead of fixing the problem and spending more money that I want to, do you think engine block leak stuff could help? I think I may have done some damage to my head gasket...
12-16-2014, 09:19 PM
#94
Well, you've replaced the radiator cap, thermostat, and water pump. Finish the job off with some new radiator hoses (if that's the source of the leak). Adding half a bottle of water is quit a bit...I think your leak may be bigger than you think.
As long as you never saw smoke, I doubt your engine has occurred damage. I'd still pass on adding more engine block stuff. Fix the leak and you should be good for a very long time.
Where exactly is the the source of the leak? Finding the source of the leak should be easy, and the repair should be easy and cheap too.
As long as you never saw smoke, I doubt your engine has occurred damage. I'd still pass on adding more engine block stuff. Fix the leak and you should be good for a very long time.
Where exactly is the the source of the leak? Finding the source of the leak should be easy, and the repair should be easy and cheap too.
12-17-2014, 07:38 AM
#96
Check the small coolant hose at the back of the manifold right above and next to the EGR. Check the hard coolant pipes and one small hose near the front valve cover...My hunch says it's leaking from somewhere high, and then runs down to the bottom of the engine where it collects and falls off.
12-17-2014, 12:00 PM
#100
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 2,979
Josh....
The root cause is NOT the water pump. It is STILL A HOSE.
The hose is still leaking. The owner is adding water again. He is not fixing the hose. So the coolant will freeze again. This might take out the new water pump. PLEASE FIX THE HOSE.
The root cause is NOT the water pump. It is STILL A HOSE.
The hose is still leaking. The owner is adding water again. He is not fixing the hose. So the coolant will freeze again. This might take out the new water pump. PLEASE FIX THE HOSE.
12-17-2014, 12:16 PM
#101
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Central AR
Posts: 3,041
Here's one of the few car clubs I've seen that works to perform a RCA. 
http://www.mindtools.com/pages/article/newTMC_80.htm
http://www.mindtools.com/pages/article/newTMC_80.htm
12-17-2014, 06:52 PM
#102
Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 113
Guys the hose that HAD the pinhole leak is not leaking again. If I snapped my fingers and the hose (that HAD the pinhole leak) was fixed now it still would not fix my current issue.
I think all the stress I put on the engine, while all this was going on, caused a new leak.
JOSHG IS correct based on the symptoms I was having... The Water Pump was the part that needed to be replaced because of.... No heat - blows cold air, overheating fast with cap on, can drive longer with cap off, burping system did not work, upper rad hose warm/hot when on, lower hose cool/cold when on, rad fans work, thermostat opens up, etc...
Now did I also suffer another issue along the way? Yes but the point is the water pump fixed the main issue.
If a newbie had the same symptoms I had (above) it's probably going to be the water pump and I think that's the point.
You guys have been awesome.
I think all the stress I put on the engine, while all this was going on, caused a new leak.
JOSHG IS correct based on the symptoms I was having... The Water Pump was the part that needed to be replaced because of.... No heat - blows cold air, overheating fast with cap on, can drive longer with cap off, burping system did not work, upper rad hose warm/hot when on, lower hose cool/cold when on, rad fans work, thermostat opens up, etc...
Now did I also suffer another issue along the way? Yes but the point is the water pump fixed the main issue.
If a newbie had the same symptoms I had (above) it's probably going to be the water pump and I think that's the point.
You guys have been awesome.
Last edited by captchaos; 12-19-2014 at 10:19 AM.
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