i30 LCA and CV Joints problems
08-12-2014, 03:14 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 27
i30 LCA and CV Joints problems
Hello everyone
My i30 is absolutely destroying the new tires that I put on it, the shop where I put the tire and aligned the car told me that the alignment was pointless because of the condition of the lower control arms, they said these needed replacement. Has anyone done the replacement on their own? is it difficult and are any special tools required?
Also, when I turn sharply the cv joints are making the cracking sound of dead, is this another DIY or I need a mechanic?
Where can I get the best price for these parts?
Thanks
Julian
My i30 is absolutely destroying the new tires that I put on it, the shop where I put the tire and aligned the car told me that the alignment was pointless because of the condition of the lower control arms, they said these needed replacement. Has anyone done the replacement on their own? is it difficult and are any special tools required?
Also, when I turn sharply the cv joints are making the cracking sound of dead, is this another DIY or I need a mechanic?
Where can I get the best price for these parts?
Thanks
Julian
08-12-2014, 06:17 PM
#2
Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 129
Hello everyone
My i30 is absolutely destroying the new tires that I put on it, the shop where I put the tire and aligned the car told me that the alignment was pointless because of the condition of the lower control arms, they said these needed replacement. Has anyone done the replacement on their own? is it difficult and are any special tools required?
Also, when I turn sharply the cv joints are making the cracking sound of dead, is this another DIY or I need a mechanic?
Where can I get the best price for these parts?
Thanks
Julian
My i30 is absolutely destroying the new tires that I put on it, the shop where I put the tire and aligned the car told me that the alignment was pointless because of the condition of the lower control arms, they said these needed replacement. Has anyone done the replacement on their own? is it difficult and are any special tools required?
Also, when I turn sharply the cv joints are making the cracking sound of dead, is this another DIY or I need a mechanic?
Where can I get the best price for these parts?
Thanks
Julian
08-12-2014, 11:07 PM
#4
This thread will tell you everything you need to know about the suspension. It's a 5th gen thread, but 99% of the info also applies to the 4th gen;
https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...thread-28.html
https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...thread-28.html
08-13-2014, 02:46 AM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Central AR
Posts: 3,041
Where are you located? I usually purchase MOOG LCA's from eBay or where I can find the best price. For CV axles, I purchase from Advance Auto online, then specify pickup at my local store, and use the TRT30 (30% off over $100) or HUGE50 ($50 off on over $175) coupon codes that brings the price down to $97.99 a set. Although the AA CV joints have a lifetime warranty, I'm never had to use it..
If you need a set of large sockets for the CV axles, AA will let you borrow them (with a deposit) then refund the money when you return tools. Be sure to properly torque the axle bolt or you will shorten the life of the wheel bearing.
Also, when I replace the CV axles, I go ahead and replace the transmission axle seals to start with both new axles and seals. I've had good luck with the Federal Mogul (National) sold at AA.
You can save a lot of money by doing it yourself. In addition to various sockets, I use a long 1/2 drive breaker bar, a piece of steel pipe for adding leverage to the breaker bar, and jack stands when I do the job.
If you need a set of large sockets for the CV axles, AA will let you borrow them (with a deposit) then refund the money when you return tools. Be sure to properly torque the axle bolt or you will shorten the life of the wheel bearing.
Also, when I replace the CV axles, I go ahead and replace the transmission axle seals to start with both new axles and seals. I've had good luck with the Federal Mogul (National) sold at AA.
You can save a lot of money by doing it yourself. In addition to various sockets, I use a long 1/2 drive breaker bar, a piece of steel pipe for adding leverage to the breaker bar, and jack stands when I do the job.
Last edited by CS_AR; 08-13-2014 at 04:25 AM.
08-13-2014, 07:46 AM
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Oshkosh WI
Posts: 327
I got a smokin deal on my LCAs from rock auto a few months back. Cost less than $100 for a pair of moog LCAs. If you have done suspension work in the past, this is no different. I don't remember it being unusually tricky or difficult. Besides a large set of sockets, hammer, and a good breaker bar, pick up or rent a pickle fork, and maybe a pitman arm puller for the tie rod and. I can't remember if I had to take mine off for more play to get the CV out.
As long as the boots are OK on the other CV you don't need to replace it.
As long as the boots are OK on the other CV you don't need to replace it.
08-13-2014, 09:31 AM
#7
I installed new duralast CV axles from autozone that have a limited lifetime warranty. They lasted 58,000 miles before I replaced them a few months ago for a free warranty trade in. Just purchased new timken seals for $25. They are very tight and rarely leak.
I purchased moog LCAs from www.rockauto.com 5 years ago and they've held fine. Bushings are in good shape and very little rust.
Removing the axles first will make it easier to loosen the ball joint nut on the LCAs. When I replaced my LCAs they were so badly rusted I had to remove the axles to get to the tightly rusted ball joint nut.
I purchased moog LCAs from www.rockauto.com 5 years ago and they've held fine. Bushings are in good shape and very little rust.
Removing the axles first will make it easier to loosen the ball joint nut on the LCAs. When I replaced my LCAs they were so badly rusted I had to remove the axles to get to the tightly rusted ball joint nut.
08-13-2014, 02:30 PM
#8
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 27
Where are you located? I usually purchase MOOG LCA's from eBay or where I can find the best price. For CV axles, I purchase from Advance Auto online, then specify pickup at my local store, and use the TRT30 (30% off over $100) or HUGE50 ($50 off on over $175) coupon codes that brings the price down to $97.99 a set. Although the AA CV joints have a lifetime warranty, I'm never had to use it..
If you need a set of large sockets for the CV axles, AA will let you borrow them (with a deposit) then refund the money when you return tools. Be sure to properly torque the axle bolt or you will shorten the life of the wheel bearing.
Also, when I replace the CV axles, I go ahead and replace the transmission axle seals to start with both new axles and seals. I've had good luck with the Federal Mogul (National) sold at AA.
You can save a lot of money by doing it yourself. In addition to various sockets, I use a long 1/2 drive breaker bar, a piece of steel pipe for adding leverage to the breaker bar, and jack stands when I do the job.
If you need a set of large sockets for the CV axles, AA will let you borrow them (with a deposit) then refund the money when you return tools. Be sure to properly torque the axle bolt or you will shorten the life of the wheel bearing.
Also, when I replace the CV axles, I go ahead and replace the transmission axle seals to start with both new axles and seals. I've had good luck with the Federal Mogul (National) sold at AA.
You can save a lot of money by doing it yourself. In addition to various sockets, I use a long 1/2 drive breaker bar, a piece of steel pipe for adding leverage to the breaker bar, and jack stands when I do the job.
I want to do it myself not only to save the money, did the struts recently and it was pretty easy.
I believe I have sockets for the CV axles and will look at the linked thread for suggested torque on all the nuts bolts related to the lca and cv joints.
Does the brand matter for LCA or CV joints, I see some very lowe price lcas
http://www.buyautoparts.com/buynow/1...FSMV7AodHCUAww
Thanks
08-13-2014, 02:33 PM
#9
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 27
New Shoes
I got a smokin deal on my LCAs from rock auto a few months back. Cost less than $100 for a pair of moog LCAs. If you have done suspension work in the past, this is no different. I don't remember it being unusually tricky or difficult. Besides a large set of sockets, hammer, and a good breaker bar, pick up or rent a pickle fork, and maybe a pitman arm puller for the tie rod and. I can't remember if I had to take mine off for more play to get the CV out.
As long as the boots are OK on the other CV you don't need to replace it.
As long as the boots are OK on the other CV you don't need to replace it.
thanks for the info, the boots are destroyed
08-13-2014, 02:45 PM
#10
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 27
I got a smokin deal on my LCAs from rock auto a few months back. Cost less than $100 for a pair of moog LCAs. If you have done suspension work in the past, this is no different. I don't remember it being unusually tricky or difficult. Besides a large set of sockets, hammer, and a good breaker bar, pick up or rent a pickle fork, and maybe a pitman arm puller for the tie rod and. I can't remember if I had to take mine off for more play to get the CV out.
As long as the boots are OK on the other CV you don't need to replace it.
As long as the boots are OK on the other CV you don't need to replace it.
which one is the 'special' tool needed for CV replacement?
thanks
08-13-2014, 03:52 PM
#11
Miami
I want to do it myself not only to save the money, did the struts recently and it was pretty easy.
I believe I have sockets for the CV axles and will look at the linked thread for suggested torque on all the nuts bolts related to the lca and cv joints.
Does the brand matter for LCA or CV joints, I see some very lowe price lcas
http://www.buyautoparts.com/buynow/1...FSMV7AodHCUAww
Thanks
I want to do it myself not only to save the money, did the struts recently and it was pretty easy.
I believe I have sockets for the CV axles and will look at the linked thread for suggested torque on all the nuts bolts related to the lca and cv joints.
Does the brand matter for LCA or CV joints, I see some very lowe price lcas
http://www.buyautoparts.com/buynow/1...FSMV7AodHCUAww
Thanks
Download the FSM files from the link CS provided in the bottom of post 5. Match the maxima to the year of the I30 you have. The FA.pdf file will provide the torque for all LCA and axle nuts.
The axle nut requires a deep 36mm socket and 200 ft/lbs of torque. You'll need an impact wrench or a 1/2" breaker bar if you're a weight lifter like myself.
08-14-2014, 08:46 AM
#12
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 27
Click on the link Dave provided in post 4. That thread will provide all the info needed to replace the LCAs and axles.
Download the FSM files from the link CS provided in the bottom of post 5. Match the maxima to the year of the I30 you have. The FA.pdf file will provide the torque for all LCA and axle nuts.
The axle nut requires a deep 36mm socket and 200 ft/lbs of torque. You'll need an impact wrench or a 1/2" breaker bar if you're a weight lifter like myself.
Download the FSM files from the link CS provided in the bottom of post 5. Match the maxima to the year of the I30 you have. The FA.pdf file will provide the torque for all LCA and axle nuts.
The axle nut requires a deep 36mm socket and 200 ft/lbs of torque. You'll need an impact wrench or a 1/2" breaker bar if you're a weight lifter like myself.
1RM is 245lbs, does that mean I am covered? lol
We will see how that goes
08-19-2014, 01:52 PM
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 699
08-19-2014, 07:45 PM
#14
Theres a how to on youtube. I replaced one it took about an hour if you know what your doing just follow the how to guide. impact tools arent required but a breaker bar is depending on your strength.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yTIePKbH3hY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yTIePKbH3hY
08-19-2014, 08:58 PM
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Central AR
Posts: 3,041
08-20-2014, 05:32 AM
#17
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