96explorerxlt

Hello,
I have a 1999 Maxima that when I disengage the clutch quite frequently I get violent lurching only in both first and second gear. Severe rocking back and forth. I'd say this is probably 1 of every 20 times I go from a stop. The car has 170,000 miles and a original clutch. I did replace the coil packs around 60k. No CEL is showing at the moment.

Does anyone have any idea what it could be? Is the pressure plate or throwout bearing causing these violent shakes? 3rd -5th seems to be OK. I've also experience where I hit a bridge deck on the highway and felt the car slow down ...as if the transmission became disconnected then surge and maintain speed...very odd.. this only happened once.

Thanks all,
Jason

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

Sounds like slipping from your description.
New clutch and surface or replace the FW.

96explorerxlt

After doing some more research I believe this is related to the engine than the transmission, it will go in gear most of the time fine, clutch feels great, but if i'm in 1st or 2nd gear and im going then I let off to coast for a section, it feels like the engine misfires, and thats where you get the jolting..because the car and transmission are trying to restart it but the car keeps bucking, and then it'll either die of severe bucking or continue... I am wondering now if I have bad spark plugs or some sort of Vacumn leak? No CEL codes thrown as of now, I will check when I get home, I replaced all my coil packs at 60k and I have 175k now.

CS_AR

How long has it been since the plugs were replaced? I've found my 99 models like the NGK copper v-power plugs. While copper plugs should only last roughly 30,000 miles, at approximately $2 (& change) per plug, the price makes them a sweet deal. I've read where NGK coppers work good with aging coils. My first hand experience has been good on my 4th gens over 180,000 miles on the coils.

Are you a do it yourself type owner?

I had a crazy problem last spring with my 99 model where the electric EGR valve was not closing. It made the engine behave like it had a vacuum leak. I kept looking for vacuum leaks to no avail. Sometimes it took longer to start than it should. Then the RPM would fluctuate and drop too low when I would be shifting between 1st and 2nd. Finally one Sunday morning I got a code for the EGR. I changed the EGR later that day and that fixed the hard to start and RPM fluctuation issues.

Do you know when the EGR tube and valve were cleaned last? I had recently cleaned my EGR tube and valve as part of a major engine mid-life refresh. That's what made it harder for me to find the issue because everything looked right.

https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...-question.html

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

I've had bucking when my MAF was almost toast and no code.

CS_AR

That's a good point because on an automatic the tell-tale sign of a failing MAF is engine stalling at stop lights or when you put it in gear.

For a manual it seems to be the 1st to 2nd gear jump buck. Once the buck starts rolling, I find my foot bouncing on the accelerator that makes it worse.

I had already swapped out the MAF with a known good one a few weeks before I later found the EGR issue.

To your point, and I can tell you the RPM bounce from the EGR is nowhere near as severe as the oscillating buck that comes from a failing MAF.

asand1

iTrader: (1)

Motor mounts are shot.

CS_AR

When that happens, the rocking engine causes the throttle linkage to shift and open/close without pressing the accelerator thus causing a buck?

asand1

iTrader: (1)

Yup.