Tachometer inoperative
09-12-2014, 09:32 AM
#1
Newbie - Just Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 10
Tachometer inoperative
Good day gents, and ladies perhaps. I've tried to search out this problem but could not find a thread on it so here goes. I have a '97 SE manual gearbox, 180k ish miles. My tach just started going whacko. 1st it was dead altogether, then started drifting around, sometimes hangs out at 4 - 5 grand. It zeros out when the key is off. Turning on the ignition, the needle could go anywhere. Not over 5k as of yet though. What drives this thing? What sensor feeds it, and where is it located. I assume this is a sensor issue. I need a place to start looking. I have no mil. Can someone tell me how to change the bulb in case a code would help? Thanks.
09-13-2014, 08:14 AM
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 451
the vss - vehicle speed sensor its located on the transmission and when it goes bad it stops feeding the speed information to the TACHS which makes the tach act up. Here are the symptoms from ehow,Speed Controls
The most noticeable sign of a bad speed sensor is a speedometer or odometer that stops working. Also, you may not be able to set your vehicle to cruise control.
The most noticeable sign of a bad speed sensor is a speedometer or odometer that stops working. Also, you may not be able to set your vehicle to cruise control.
09-29-2014, 10:46 AM
#5
Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 227
From youtube: Connect OBDII, monitor live data RPM speed. If it is not showing, it is VSS. Else it is in the cluster.
My tach meter (97Max) is bad. Symptom: the needle goes all the way to the right. If I push the cluster in, sometime it goes back to normal. Last weekend, I opened it up, tighten some screws and it is now back to normal.
During the course of testing, the needle sometimes was dead at 0RPM, sometimes it stuck at red line, sometimes, dancing up/down in the middle like a VU meter in a stereo receiver. So it has the symptom like yours.
I guess the root cause is the flex circuit (printed circuit on plastic). The plastic is found wobbling probably due to possible aging/heat. This causes open circuit, or loose connection randomly which could cause spike in voltage.
The tach can be removed by 3 phillip screws in the back. The front RPM faceplate is screwed with 2 small screws. I guess the needle can be removed by force but I did not, fearing I might break it.
summary of removal sequence:
1. Lower the steering column
2. Un-screw 2 phillip screws beneath the roof of the cluster, remove the trim (to which dimmer, cruise switch, and security indicator unit are connected).
3. Remove dimmer, cruise switch, security indicator unit by pushing it from inside out
4. Un-screw 3 screws (1 top, 2 on the bottom) to remove cluster from dashboard.
5. Use flat head and remove the clear guard, the black trim from the cluster. These are connected by locking tabs. Press tab down and push it out. There are 5-6 tabs. They have tendency to re-snap together, just roll up some paper napkin to prevent it from doing so.
6. Unscrew 3 phillip screws behind tach to remove it.
Safety precaution: Remember disconnect the negative wire to battery. I heard accidental deployment of airbag system. Though I never follow to know what caused them to deploy, your face would be too close to the steering wheel.
problem: http://youtu.be/xwDWx454vgQ
seem fixed: http://youtu.be/mcCcXE-6FqE
photos: https://plus.google.com/u/0/10640884...ts/AmFRsfe22CL
My tach meter (97Max) is bad. Symptom: the needle goes all the way to the right. If I push the cluster in, sometime it goes back to normal. Last weekend, I opened it up, tighten some screws and it is now back to normal.
During the course of testing, the needle sometimes was dead at 0RPM, sometimes it stuck at red line, sometimes, dancing up/down in the middle like a VU meter in a stereo receiver. So it has the symptom like yours.
I guess the root cause is the flex circuit (printed circuit on plastic). The plastic is found wobbling probably due to possible aging/heat. This causes open circuit, or loose connection randomly which could cause spike in voltage.
The tach can be removed by 3 phillip screws in the back. The front RPM faceplate is screwed with 2 small screws. I guess the needle can be removed by force but I did not, fearing I might break it.
summary of removal sequence:
1. Lower the steering column
2. Un-screw 2 phillip screws beneath the roof of the cluster, remove the trim (to which dimmer, cruise switch, and security indicator unit are connected).
3. Remove dimmer, cruise switch, security indicator unit by pushing it from inside out
4. Un-screw 3 screws (1 top, 2 on the bottom) to remove cluster from dashboard.
5. Use flat head and remove the clear guard, the black trim from the cluster. These are connected by locking tabs. Press tab down and push it out. There are 5-6 tabs. They have tendency to re-snap together, just roll up some paper napkin to prevent it from doing so.
6. Unscrew 3 phillip screws behind tach to remove it.
Safety precaution: Remember disconnect the negative wire to battery. I heard accidental deployment of airbag system. Though I never follow to know what caused them to deploy, your face would be too close to the steering wheel.
problem: http://youtu.be/xwDWx454vgQ
seem fixed: http://youtu.be/mcCcXE-6FqE
photos: https://plus.google.com/u/0/10640884...ts/AmFRsfe22CL
Last edited by saig; 09-29-2014 at 02:14 PM.
09-29-2014, 03:14 PM
#6
Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 227
10-02-2014, 10:52 PM
#8
tachameter
Yeah, my tach has been going haywire for the last 3 -4 years. I took it to a Nissan dealer and the techs told me that I would need to order a new cluster. They were a bit pricey, around $740, but this was over 3 years ago. I was going to buy a used one from a seller on ebay, but I was skeptical about the odometer on them. Most of them had over 180k miles. I have 128k original on my 95 Maxima SE.
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