LuminousX

I'm having some transmission issue that I narrowed down to what may be a bad Tranny solenoid, I am not 100% sure, so I'm asking for advice on what to do, the problem is, when my car is cold it revs up to high rpms before it shift from 1st to 2nd or if I let up off the gas at around 2500 rpms, it shifts fine once its well warmed up, my options are to

1, drop the oil pan, and check the solenoid one by one with a multimeter to make sure that it's bad, this will also be 2 times the work because I would have to put everything back together then do it all over when I get the new solenoid

2, this option is the same as number one, but this time I would buy shift solenoid from the junk yard then, test the ones in my car, and replace what's bad in the process, but at the same time those junk yard solenoids could be on their way out aswell, and I'd be stuck doing the same thing again within a year

3, buy the solenoid pack from nissan for $80 then install it, and pray that was the problem, but if not, I'd be stuck with a problem still, and be down $80.

so number 1,2, or 3 are if you have a better idea please share

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

You have to troubleshoot before you source parts.

jholley

iTrader: (13)

If you read the post I made to this thread you previously started regarding your shifting issue you would realize the tranny pan doesn't need to be dropped to test the solenoids.

https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...sion-done.html

LuminousX

so I can just track the solenoid wire coming from inside the transmission, and then undo the connector, and test each pin?

jholley

iTrader: (13)

You'll need a multimeter for resistance testing.

1. Disconnect connector F42

2. Place a lead on pin 2 and the other lead on a clean GND connection. (Solenoid A)

3. Place a lead on pin 1 and the other lead on a clean GND connection. (Solenoid B)

If they measure between 10 to 20 ohms they are fine. If not then replace them.

If you cannot comprehend this procedure then bring your MAX back to the mechanic.

LuminousX

I understand what your saying, just trying to understand where the f42 plug is

jholley

iTrader: (13)

Read this manual I've shown you several times

http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/tsb/NTB98-043.pdf

Steps 3 &4 tell you how to remove it and figure 1 shows the location. It's in back of the inhibitor switch and is easier to reach from below with the car raised.

LuminousX

I had to buy a multimeter so i would do the test, the connector had 7 pins in it, I tested in this order ( Hold the connector such that the plastic latch is at the top) the top row tested almost the same from left to right expect for number 4, all others tested between 15-25, the 4th was around 4-5, the bottom row only had 3 pins, I couldn't get a readying from the last 2, but the 1st was around 15-25 as well, based on the info I found here https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...ere-first.html

#1, Shift solenoid B, 20 - 40 ohms.
#2, Shift solenoid A, 20 - 40 ohms.
#3, Overrun clutch solenoid valve, 20 - 40 ohms.
#4, Line pressure solenoid valve, 2.5 - 5 ohms.
#5, Torque converter clutch solenoid valve, 10 - 20 ohms.

my readings aren't between 20-40 ohms, but I don't think all of them are bad, only 4, and 5 seems to be in range, any idea where to go from here, are did I miss something?

jholley

iTrader: (13)

Without the actual resistance readings we cannot verify if they're within operating range or not. If the shift and clutch solenoids are below 20 ohms then they're gone and you'll need to replace the solenoid set. If the TC clutch solenoid read above 20 ohms then it's bad also. I can only state the Line pressure solenoid gave a correct reading?

LuminousX

I think I'm just gonna go ahead, and replace the hold thing, if I lose $80 on the parts then so be it

jholley

iTrader: (13)

Replacing those low priced solenoids is an easy task. A positive aspect of this job is half of your ATF will be new.

Read these threads and How To's for guidance

https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...solenoids.html

http://www.vqpower.com/v3/content/valve-body-install

For cleaning the tranny screen and re-installing the AT pan here is a post for tips

LuminousX

alright, Thanks when I get this done I'll post what happens next.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

That sound more like a hanging/stuck solenoid or valve not a defective solenoid circuit!

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

Have it professional flush unless you have a $3000 transmission flush tool which I doubt....then see how it runs! If it still hangs up in 1-2 gear shift ...Then i would be looking at that valve or valves involved in 1-2 gear change for sticking valves or broken springs!

jholley

iTrader: (13)

I disagree with performing a power flush on a RE4F04A with 140k miles! There are dozens of posts stating power flushes caused permanent damage on ATs with high miles.

asand1

iTrader: (1)

+1

Just do your repair and drain fill.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

No problem! I do a flush every 30K and I'm @ almost 170k...Keep believing everything you here or read on his Org...Just like 6th brake won't fit under 00-01 17" SE wheels (BS!!!)

LuminousX

I just found something out, when I start my car it idles fine, but I notice that the idle doesn't drop all the way down to 7000 or 7500 it always stays at around 9000, and at this point my car doesn't shift normal, but if I do put it in drive the idle will drop down to 5500, 6000 then bounce back up to 9000 when I out it in Park, but after driving for about 20-25 mins, I notice the idle would drop down to normal like it use to when it's in park, and that's around 7000, 7500 like I stated before, and at this point the car will now shift normal, so long story short when the car is really well warmed up the car idles fine, but when it's cold the car idles high, and the transmission doesn't shift until the car is really warmed up... even if the Temp is in the center the car still idles high, and one more thing... I tried doing the transmission diagnose thing, and it wouldn't work, I'm thinking my TPS as something to do with one of these issues, but I'm not getting a code

LuminousX

well I got the part this morning around 11am, and never got done till around 4:30pm, I was pretty much under the car on the side of the road working on the valve body the whole time, I would have been done in half the time if I did make so many mistakes like leaving out the magnets that I took out the pan to leave, so I had to drop the pan again, then the car would go into every gear but 1st so I looked at my sheet, and saw that I didn't fix that thing that changed the gears manually, so I had to drop the pan again, and at the end of it all, it worked fine, it jams into 3 a bit hard, but maybe that was because I was redlining it, but it was well worth those few hours, and those many times I had to stop because there was too much tension in my hand lols, but all, and all it find my shifting problems for now until something go wrong, and I'm hoping it doesn't

lux97Max

iTrader: (24)

good job man, at least you got your max running and off the side of the road.

CS_AR

Glad to hear it worked out. Think of the money you saved.

LuminousX

yeah man, so far it's running good, if I had to do it again, it would take me like 2 hours max, the part that slowed me down is the bolts because I had to hold the sheet in my hand while laying on my back under the car, and then line up the picture outlining the bolts to remove, and yeah holding the valve body with one hand why trying to tread that one bolt so you can let it out, it pretty heavy for it's size... so when a shop tells you your transmission is done, it's best to look into the problem your facing before paying all that money for a used or rebuilt, just saying

P.S these are my topics that states how the car was acting when the problem started, so whoever are having problems like I did have a good idea of where to looks

https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...sometimes.html
https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...sion-done.html

anytime this mechanic tells me something I'm doing to make sure I look into it myself, MY TRANSMISSION IS ALIVE!!

jholley

iTrader: (13)

Glad you got it shifting fine again! Change the ATF again every 30,000 miles to keep it going.

When I first dropped an AT pan I over-torqued one of the bolts and bent the pan. Luckily the dealership across the river was cleaning their stock and selling the pan on ebay for only $40.

LuminousX

I pretty much use the same amount of force it takes me to undo the bolts to redo them because I don't have a torque tool thingy, but yeah thanks a lot man

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

You've had your car since new I presume? So it had a good maintenance history?

Would you, after purchasing a used car with 170K miles, flush the tranny, all the while not knowing it's maintenance history? I would strongly advise against it.