Nightstalker61O

Hey guys. I just got a new Maxima. It's a 96 with 200 + thousand miles (Manual trans of course). It always ran fantastically and was serviced regularly until the recent owner began having these electrical issues. The car starts and runs fine but when you hit the turn signal all the lights flicker, the RPM gauge dances around, the wipers come on and stutter back and forth and it makes a strange humming noise. When he began having these issues, I can see he decided to get under the hood and start cutting things up. Wires are exposed and carelessly twisted together & the the housing box for the relay at the front right is gone and they are all scattered around. I figured the easiest way to fix this issue would be to just buy a new accessory harness but I couldn't find one online. I then thought it might be easier to attempt to go through this one and find/work out the kinks but I am not really sure the best way to go about doing that. If needed, I can post some pictures of the cut wires. Here's a video of the whole ordeal occurring: http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=LPNI7culhxQ In addition, if there is any vital information I missed for possible diagnosis just let me know. If anyone here on the org could point me in the right direction it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your time!

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

Why didn't the previous owner simply replace the multi function switch instead of cutting up the wiring!

PH98I30

Wow! What a mess. You might try going to a wrecking yard and see if you can find a not too destroyed Max and get a look at some of the wiring. Maybe take some pics of where things go. Electrical problems are the worst. Maybe you can find some needed parts also.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

I'm concerned about the statement "Wires are exposed and carelessly twisted together". Does that mean they were cut? If wires were cut and not soldered, just twisted together, that is a potential problem in a year or two.

But start with the headlight multi-function switch that njmaxseltd suggested and see if that takes care of the problem. The you can work on undoing the damage the previous owner did.

Nightstalker61O

It's definitely a mess. Where would I find the Headlight Multifunction Switch? Is it the actual lever it's self?

max-nutcase

ya, i feel for you bro, sounds like 1 ell of a mess!
sometimes people do tins that cant be explained

Nightstalker61O

Replaced the multifunction switch. Nothing. Anyone? Please?

Nightstalker61O

Here's a video

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=LPNI7culhxQ

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

I never say this, but kill it with fire.
It's possessed.

Nightstalker61O

Any priests on the org wanna come bless my car? Hahah

Nightstalker61O

Or if anyone has an accessory harness?

Nightstalker61O

Any new ideas? Anyone?

max-nutcase

just watched your vid....holy shiiit!

i wouldnt know where to start....i have a feeling you would even have trouble finding a nissan mech. who would be willing to attempt to fix that....thats one of those beat ur head against a wall issues...
hate to say it, but u may have to find another ride

Nightstalker61O

The car was lowered. Very lowered. My guess is at highway speeds the tire was constantly rubbing the harness where it runs under the fender (he has some big bubbly tires on this thing) causing it to split, and after that the individual wires were exposed and they too began to split open. Once you have exposed wires being mashed together and heating from the friction, they could bind together or even just be touching. Sound reasonable?

asand1

iTrader: (1)

Go to the wrecking yard and get a harness and maybe even BCM.

Nightstalker61O

That's what I'm going to do if I can't see the problem. Where would I find the BCM?

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

BCM is under the console next to where the drivers right leg would be. Two people posted links to the FSM in this thread. Use the FSM section EL (Electrical) to help you. It's shown in EL - location of electrical units.

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

How did the problem start? Out of the blue? Was somebody trying to fix something and made it worse? This does not look like the type of problem that would just pop up by itself. I would try and find out what was someone doing when or before it started.

It's possible two connectors were plugged into the wrong place or a connector was not properly lined up.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Watched the video and it kind of looks like a case of back-circuiting, which is where the ground is missing and the electricity is going through other components/devices to find a ground. That or there are some wires shorted together allowing the electrical current to go where it shouldn't.

But I don't think that explains the windshield wipers turning on when you press the gas lid button.

Replacing the harness in the wheel well sounds like a good piece of advice.

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

You need to try and isolate the problem. Try removing fuse 11 it is for the hazard and turn signals. I know the turn signals will not work with that fuse removed but see if the car works more normally. You can also try removing the wiper fuse and see if that helps. If you still are not making any progress you can try and remove some of the other fuses one at a time. See if any particular fuse makes the car behave more normally. Of course when you remove a fuse that circuit will no longer function but that may help isolate the problem.

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

I would not burn the car :-). Someone who has some skill at automotive electronics and wiring could probably find the problem without too much trouble. I'd love to have a go at it.


By all means try changing the wiring harnesses or BCM if you have access to those parts. Will these parts definitely fix your car .... no.

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

The switch on the door that makes the wipers turn on is the trunk lid switch. Remove trunk lid fuse, number 37 and see what happens. The trunk lid circuit has nothing to do with the BCM so your problem may not be with the BCM. The fuse holders have the fuse numbers engraved next to the fuse. You have to look closely.

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

The thing with multiple electrical problems is instead of trying to fix all the problems at once you need to narrow things down. Concentrate on fixing one issue and one circuit at a time. Otherwise it can seem impossible.

Nightstalker61O

Thanks for the advice guys. I'll try messing around with unplugging fuses tomorrow before work and I'll report back.

In addition, I found this tool called the ECT 2000 that finds shorts. It goes for over 100 dollars online so I don't wanna pay that to use it once but I'm going to call around some local auto stores and see if I cant rent it or something similar. Anyone know of any other tools that would help me out with this situation?

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

Does anything work normally? Such as interior lights, headlights, brake lights, radio, alarm, windows door locks, horn?
Try removing fuse #14 for the flasher unit and see what happens also.
The tool that would help you out is a multimeter but unless you know how to use it probably won't be much use.

Nightstalker61O

To answer your question, yes. The windshield wipers work but cut in and out. The head and tails both work fine along with the air. Update: Today I looked at the harness under the fender and sure enough it was all cut up with exposed wires twisted together. A whole big f****** mess. I disconnected all of his splices and redid them using matching gauge wire. Now nothing works but the windshield wipers. I did check all of the fuses you guys mentioned before and after my temporary patch job. All the fuses were good. I want to get a diagram of where all the grounds should be and check that next. I am also going to look into how to test relays. Any other advice would be greatly appreciated.

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

I was not asking if the fuses were good. I was asking you to remove some of them and see what happens. Does not matter now. I'm trying to help but if you do not follow instructions I will not be able to do that.

Now nothing works but the windshield wipers. What does not work? The horn? The interior lights? The trunk release? The point is to keep it simple and try and fix one circuit such as the horn or trunk release and go from there. If the one simple circuit is fixed it may also fix some or all of the other problems at the same time.

Nightstalker61O

When pulling the fuses, nothing with my problem changed. For example, when I pull the hazard fuze, my trunk button still controls the wipers. The only thing that works is wipers and power locks which I forgot to mention. Everything else does not work as in you press buttons and nothing happens.

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

OK that means you are not getting any power to all those circuits. Do the headlights work? Radio? AC? Fog lamp? Horn? Will the car start?

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

Have you looked in the FSM EL section? Check out the power supply routing diagram, like page 6, that would give you some clue where the power is missing.

Nightstalker61O

Okay, here is a list of everything that works:

1.Locks
2.Horn
3.Headlights/tails/fogs

The car also starts, runs and drives. I have stripped pretty much everything including the radio so I haven't got the chance to test it. Everything else does not work. Hope that helps. I've been working a lot and have not had the chance to download the FSM.

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

I'm pretty sure your 75 Amp fusible link is blown. The fuse is located in the engine compartment fuse box. If it is blown and you change it, it will probably blow again if there is a short circuit. Considering the situation I am really not sure what will happen once you change it.

I'll help if I can but if you do not make any progress this problem requires someone who has a multimeter and knows how to use it. It may not be as big a problem as you think. If that 75 amp fuse is blown or removed. The car will run, the headlights will work and the horn will sound but not much else will work.

If you connected the damaged wiring fairly well you are probably not that far away from having it work. The car is far from being a lost cause.

Nightstalker61O

The 75 amp is not blown. I have access to a multimeter but I only know how to test battery voltage with it. I'm sure I can learn how to use it on the internet pretty quick though. Any idea where to start or which mode or modes I would use?

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

Go to the FSM EL section. Check out the power supply routing diagram it's on page 6.
The diagram shows how power gets to the various circuits. Whether it be a blown fuse or a missing connection you are not getting power to most of yours. You can compare how you are getting 12VDC to circuits such as the horn or headlights but not to most of your other functions.

Nightstalker61O

Alright so I went to the junkyard and pulled a harness and came home and pulled my harness. It was a lot of work. It took about 6 hours between the two. I put in the new harness and my problem is solved. Everything works normally. Score! However, when I pulled the harness I figured it wouldn't matter that is was from an automatic. There was not a car with manual. Sure enough, car won't start. I'm figuring it has something to do with the fact that there is no relay for the clutch but I'm not sure. I'm figuring people have dealt with this issue doing 5sp swaps or something so if you're reading this and you have some advice please enlighten me! Thanks again guys!

Nightstalker61O

So I've been having major problems with the electronics in my car. I got sick of trying to fix it so I just went to my local junkyard and pulled a new harness. It wasn't the whole harness, just the one that contains all of the fuse and relay boxes that runs over the rad and under the fender into the main fuse box. Now I figured since it was just the accessories, it would not matter that the harness I took was from an auto since it was the only one there (mine is manual). Well I was wrong. Now the car won't start. It doesn't crank. All I hear is clicking that sounds like it may be coming from the ignition relay by the fuse box under the dash. I checked all of the relevant fuses and relays but everything was good. The only thing I can think causing the problem is the fact that I have no clutch relay. The wires are not there since the harness is from an auto. The harness costed me a pretty penny so I figured I would ask for help here. Any input is appreciated.

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

You're right on track with the clutch signal circuit.
On the auto, it's the Park Neutral safety switch.
If you look on a wiring diagram, you might be able to figure out which wires to switch around to make it work for your vehicle.

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

I'll check on mine.

I have a 5 speed swap and an auto harness with the neutral safety bypassed.

I'll report back with a pic and such before the end of the day.

Nightstalker61O

Thanks guys appreciate the help. I was figuring it definitely had something to do with that.

ateick

iTrader: (1)

Not sure this will help because my only reference is a 5.5gen --
There should be a relay there even for an auto harness because it allows the car to start when an auto is in P or N. On the auto 5.5 it is labelled INHIBIT. The relay is in the same spot as the manual one. If you have the FSM you may try to ground the appropriate wire to that relay to allow the starter to engage. Once you know it works you can rewire the clutch pedal to it.