blinghurst

Hello everyone,

My car has a P1130 code showing up. I've read a bunch of threads here but still not too sure where to start. I have a very basic level of understanding when it comes to mechanics. My saving grace, boredmder, doesn't have any videos on this.

I've read about vacuum leaks, connectors, the actual solenoid, etc. Not too sure what to check first or how to check it or if I just need to buy a new part to replace it.

My car has a hard time starting and the exhaust reaks of gas. It's pretty bad and getting to the point of me getting a headache by the time I get home from work. It also isn't accelerating very well. Not sure if this bit of info helps, but thought I'd add it. Also, my car is the California version.

Thanks in advance.

blinghurst

Oh yes, I've also read that I might be able to just take part of it off to fix the problem. Not sure if this is an option or not.

Sigh

Check for air leaks, hoses, swirl control valve solenoid and vacuum lines.

Maxima 97 SE

Sounds like your swirl valve is going bad and is having problems which is why you smell gas. P1130 Nissan Description
This system has a swirl control valve in the intake passage of each cylinder.

While idling and during low engine speed operation, the swirl control valve closes. Thus the velocity of the air in the intake passage increases, promoting the vaporization of the fuel and producing a swirl in the combustion chamber.

Because of this operation, this system tends to increase the burning speed of the gas mixture, improve fuel consumption, and increase the stability in running conditions.

Also, except when idling and during low engine speed operation, this system opens the swirl control valve. In this condition, this system tends to increase power by improving intake efficiency via reduction of intake flow resistance, intake flow.

The solenoid valve controls swirl control valve’s shut/open condition. This solenoid valve is operated by the Engine Control Module (ECM).

The swirl control valve control solenoid valve responds to signals from the ECM. When the ECM sends an ON (ground) signal, the solenoid valve is bypassed to apply intake manifold vacuum to the swirl control valve actuator. This operation closes the swirl control valve. When the ECM sends an OFF signal, the vacuum signal is cut and the swirl control valve opens.

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Read more: http://engine-codes.com/p1130_nissan.html#ixzz3FR3HmrSJ

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

My guess would be that your symptoms of hard starting and gas smells occurred before the swirl control valve issue. Have you given your car a proper tuneup? As well as changing the plugs and air filter, you should replace the fuel filter, clean the throttlebody, and replace your FPR as well. If you do all this work, you may as well replace the PCV valve too.

blinghurst

Yes, I've recently done most of these things. I was having a similar issue not to long ago and it ended up being my lower crankshaft position sensor. I initially thought it was my plugs so I changed them and the air filter, cleaned the throttle body and replaced the fuel filter. Finally bit the bullet and bought a lower crankshaft position sensor and put that in and it did the trick.

Not sure what an FPR is. Haven't done that.

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

FPR = fuel pressure regulator. Hard starts are a symptom of a dying one. If you follow the fuel line up from the fuel filter, behind the throttlebody, the FPR is connected at the beginning of the fuel rail. Looks like a little flying saucer. You will need to remove all the stuff you removed to clean the throttlebody to see it/replace it.

blinghurst

Okay, I can try that. I'll do that and let you know how it goes.

DBear

A word of advice: be very careful in taking off the screws for the FPR. They strip out easily, and you can't really get in there with vise grips or pliers. Use a good Phillips head, and put a lot of force behind it. There's a thread here somewhere about replacing those screws with hex heads after you have them out.

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

Agreed.

Don't even attempt to use a normal screwdriver; go right for a ratchet with a phillips bit attachment. While one hand pushes down on the end of the ratchet, use your other hand and push the back of the ratchet into the screw as hard as you can. You'll get them out w/o too much trouble. Go to Lowes and buy replacement hardware with allen key heads so you'll never have this problem again. For those that care, the size you need to replace the two brass screws holding the FPR are M5-0.8 16mm. Don't forget to pick up some M5 lock washers too.

mikejonce

This is an awesome reply. Thank you so much for taking the time to explain. Now I do have 1 or 2 more questions stemming from this though...

1) Where exactly is the swirl control valve solenoid located? I can see where the sensor attaches to, but am not sure if thats the solenoid or what! (I've attached pictures.

2) Could my swirl control valve problem just be a lose or disconnected hose? I swapped out my factory intake with an aftermarket (InJen) CAI pretty recently. There are a few hoses that are disconnected and reconnected as a part of that process. That said, the hose that seems to be stemming form the area of the swirl control valve sensor isn't attached to anything. Might that be my issue?

Thanks in advance for your time and patience all!

vegovel

I have the same problem with my maxima and not too sure where to start please let me know what you have done to fix it

guapoman2000

Excuse me for bringing this discussion thread from Dead! Ha!

I still have the dreaded Check Engine Light (CEL) or more like "Service Engine Soon" Light!

Specific error code is P1130.

The Engine runs like new and doesn't hesitates at all. It takes off like a home sick dove!

I have been looking at various discussion threads and even was able to download what appears to be the Shop manual and on PAGE 453 starts with the long winded Troubleshooting.

I have several issues with this manual and as an example on Page EC-462 it says to disconnect the wire harness to the Swirl Control Solenoid and check for Voltage but, it doesn't say how much Voltage or in other words what are the pass/fail criteria?

Here is the Shop Manual for a typical 2001 Maxima:
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2001/EC.pdf

If anyone is still out there then, appreciate any assistance!

KP11520

Probably would have better luck in the 5th Generation forum. This is 4th Generation for 95 to 99 Maximas. And the placement and components are different.