kjlouis

Haven't seen this problem. Looked in timing related, water pump and tensioner noise, none of it is what's happening to me. I replaced water pump luckily finding a thread on here about weep hole before I tried to jbweld it shut. After getting it all back together I turned crank to double check it didn't jump time(not sure if it did or not) there was a pop noise so I wanted to check. It cleared valves so I assumed all good started car and its barely running, surging and backfireinrg if I mess with the gas and this loud clanking noise. Took tensioner cover back off and watched as I cranked by hand and guide is moving back and forth as I'm turning it. Is it just the tensioner is bad/wasn't installed properly or did I jump time? I currently have tensioner out I was attempting to jump it back a tooth but seems impossible. If it jumped time it would be on crank.

CS_AR

Were the spark plugs removed while the work was being performed? We recently had a member with a problem that turned out to be from a spark plug issue.

Can you turn the engine over by hand until you get to Top Dead Center (TDC)?

Have you ever removed the front timing cover?

Here's a link with a "post engine failure analysis" of timing marks in the following thread.

https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...ain-links.html

Timing marks are covered in the FSM -- check out the links in my signature line below.

I wish I had some good news for you. It will just take some time to take apart to identify the issue. If it is not spark plug related, then I would start by manually checking TDC and value open/closed positions with the valve covers off to see if it jumped timing.

kjlouis

I removed #1 (compression test to find tdc) and number 3(had a constant miss, clogged injector) timing was fine before water pump change. I think it still is. Really thinking its tensioner.

What do you mean by front timing cover? There's just the inner and outer right? The outter one yes to an extent. Its broken in half.(not me) I've had the top half off. I'm guessing chain was replaced. No colored links.

I'm gonna check that thread and reinstall tensioner properly and take a video for what its doing and post it. It feels like the chain slack is moving the stretch where tensioner is keeps getting lose and tight. So I think that's crank tightening up and cams moving so it gets lose again.

kjlouis

http://youtu.be/ZowzjCc7wBs
Still doing it. Took a video. Any ideas?

max-nutcase

man, im very surprised you havent gotten much input on this issue here,
maybe try a PM to someone..say thewizard, he seems to know whats up

kjlouis

Same here. Takes a lot to stump me and usually if I'm stumped I'm swarmed with posts. I'll have to look him up. Try nutcase

CS_AR

I'm stumped on this one..

My experience with chain slap from weak tensioner is a sound where the loose chain is slapping the upper guide. When I had a weak tensioner on the I30 at 225,000 miles, it almost sounded like lifter tapping (which is impossible) coming from the top of the front timing cover.

Also, the weak tensoner would eventually build up pressure and stop allowing the chain to slap after the car would run for a few minutes. So I only heard the chain slap noise when the car was cold.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Doesn't the chain tensioner work on oil pressure? If so, the chain can moce around during cranking.

Also, have you checked for spark? Maybe the wiring to the flywheel crankshaft sensor got damaged or the sensor itself.

CS_AR

Don't get me wrong, it looks like it is moving ok. I know that when replacing tensioners there is some initial noise on the 1st start up until the new tensioners respond to full oil pressure levels.

kjlouis

Should a specified I disconnected can sensor so it wouldn't start it will start like it is but its running nasty if I just let it run it'll stay running for a few mins always making that noise but if I touch throttle it bogs out and either dies backfires or both

kjlouis

95maxima tensioner while running: http://youtu.be/ppX2ra9ZAkI the pukey noise at the end- forgot I disconnected PS hose

CS_AR

I'm thinking out loud here -- but I wonder if the open tensioner cover is allowing a crankcase area vacuum leak to occur through an open PVC valve much like having one of the valve cover hoses off or when the oil cap has been removed?

.ORG thoughts?

CS_AR

I removed the oil cap off of the I30 and can't notice any difference in the way it runs at idle. So that shouldn't be an issue. Once of my cars doesn't like to run with oil cap removed but it's not the VQ30DE.

kjlouis

It did the same thing with it closed. All I can come up with is timing. Maybe that's why its so specific to colored links. Because there's supposed to be exactly that many links between cam and crank, cam and cam, and crank and cam. I can't get the bottom of timing cover off. One bolt is either broke off or comes in from other side and I would have to pull engine. So ill have to tear it all down again and have someone turn key while I watch whats going on. Anyone know how many links between each colored link? Since move chain on crank is gonna be very difficult without moving car 30 miles I'm gonna put crank in proper place and take chain off cams set cams in proper place and put chain back on

CS_AR

There are 4 colored links. Two on the main crankshaft chain and one for each camshaft chain. It's the cam dowel positions and the crankshaft position and TDC that matter most. I think colored links are there to help in the manufacturing process.

Here's a thread for timing cover removal tips below.

https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...moval-tip.html

:

kjlouis

Was hoping I didn't have to tear it down that far. I'm guessing so did previous owner.

kjlouis

Work in on car now. What mark on crank pully is tdc? Gonna set crank then move chain on top cams to set it in time. One before the last turning crank clockwise right?

kjlouis

My puppy only has 3 marks on it.... !-------!--!

CS_AR

Three marks on the outer chain is correct.. Just like the picture. I think I was trying to do it from memory.


Take a look in the EM.PDF section manual pages for "Timing Chain Installation" for your year model Maxima or I30. For example, a 97 model Maxima TC installation starts on page EM26 for crank and cam shaft dowel position marks.

Your camshafts may be ok. You can use the information to verify all the crankshaft and camshaft marks are in the correct location.

Maxima Manuals
http://www.boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/

Infiniti Manuals
http://www.boredmder.com/FSMs/Infiniti/

CS_AR

I feel bad that you are working with a broken outer timing chain cover. Do you have any salvage yards in your area where you can pick up one for cheap?

kjlouis

$25 at LKQ. I'll grab one soon running is number one problem.so. I got a lot if slacck on chain between cams left cam is at 11:30 right cam is at 1:00 does engine run clockwise or counter?

CS_AR

The VQ30DE turns clockwise when it runs. No Honda stuff here.

kjlouis

Had to run home a min. So I'm guessing I had jumped one tooth on crank that's why can is off now. So if I take chain off that can put can in place n put it back on I should be back in time right?

CS_AR

If you take the chain off you can rotate the cams and chains independently. The dowel marks need to run in a upright perpendicular position to the heads.

Compare the cam chain dowel marks to the following diagram to the one in the diagram.



The timing chain mating marks in this picture help line up the crankshaft mark



Here's a view for the crankshaft position dowel and the gold link.

kjlouis

I have the timing set right. It was off 1-2 teeth. Tensioner still jumping around. Running way better. Still not right tho...

kjlouis

Pully* not puppy....

CS_AR

Now that you have the timing setup correctly, I would run a compression test just to see where it stands.

kjlouis

Its gonna be off since tensioner is messed up. Its allowing fluctuation in valves. Hence it running like crap. Compression in back cylinders is valves are either closing late or opening early I noticed it earlier, as tensioner is flopping so is the back cam its allowing the slack to jump between the cams and where tensioner should be tensioning, where if it was held in place like it should be back cam/tensioner wouldn't be flopping. Its a hydrolic tensioner, correct? So if that's the case its powered by oil. Maybe jet is clogged? I'll check compression before I take tensioner off again. This will be 3rd time I've removed it and cleaned it. I'll quadruple check jets/ports this time. I read last night that the tiny plastic piece inside tensioner has to be in a certain way. The pin slipped out first time I took it apart. Any info available on that?

CS_AR

When I did most all of my compression tests, I had the engines town down for days and had been turning over the engine manually so oil pressure to run the tensioner most likely wasn't present. You should be able to get a read on "compression stroke" compression with both valves in a closed position either way.

Yes.. The Tensioners are hydraulic oil type. On another Nissan I've seen RTV, from too much being used, clog an oil passageway that caused the tensoner to act like it had failed.

I had one tensioner go weak on the I30 at roughly 230,000 miles. It would make clattering noise when I would first start it in the morning until enough oil pressure built up that allow the tensioner to remove the chain slack.

In the FSM, there is reference to how to use a pin (or paper clip) to keep the tensioner plunger down while it is being installed. My searches are turning up video's for VQ35DE (3.5 L) tensioner and water pump replacement.

kjlouis

I was told I couldn't get an accurate compressuon reading by hand cranking? Idk what rtv is but I never put any additives in it. My compression tester is....different... Its got the part that goes into sparkplug spot but then its an air compressor gauge followed by an air sprayer(to release pressure) its gotta be off but cranking by hand every cylinder got 25-29 psi before water pump/tensioner issues when it ran fine. Doesn't sound right to me. But it ran right.

CS_AR

I disconnect the fuel pump fuse then use the starter to run the compression test.

The point I was trying to make is I've gotten good compression test readings when there wasn't a high amount of oil pressure like when the engine is running.

RTV is PermaTex Ultra Gray or Black like the tube in the picture.

kjlouis

I'll double check the ports. Parts in at autozone...fingers crossed.

kjlouis

need a quick response is this OK? Old tensioner on the right new on the left

https://m.flickr.com/photos/32778759@N06/14104683416/

kjlouis

Saw on another thread 'new style' put it in fired it up was still running bad hit the gas blu blu bluu abluuuaaaarrrrrrr... Fixed sorry excited... Took a min to build up pressure ty very much CS_AR, Dennis max nutcase

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

The color links are only there to aid in assembly! He can pull his valve covers and ensure that #1 cylinder is off the cam (On the base circle only) on both intake and exhaust! Another 60* after that #2 cylinder should be at TDC and both intake and exhaust off the cam (on the base circle only)....Did he follow the maintenance procedure correctly when removing the water pump assy? Who really knows!