maxFL0

Before any of you flame, I did have the CEL for EGR being clogged. Sooo I removed the EGR and yes it was clogged so i cleaned it out thoroughly with carb cleaner, removed the IAC valve and cleand that as well. The CEL for the EGR (0400) is gone but the car still runs like crap/stalls out and boggs.. pleasee help me

max-nutcase

kinda shot in the dark cuz lack of exact syptoms (like if it revs or not) but id check maf, ects to start....try cleaning Maf with correct cleaner...is it a oem MAF?, or replacement crap?....i had a bad maf on my old 4th gen and ran like crap with no codes

markc32

With nissans I come across are bad maf. Try cleaning it with maf cleaner an let dry then install.

If it runs good for awhile then back again maf mite be bad.

If ur car bogs and dies when hot only it can be a bad coolant temp sensor.

Let me know

max-nutcase

Were have i heard that before?

maxFL0

I did clean the maf with the correct cleaner and still runs like ****.. where is the coolant temp sensor?

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

I'd check for silent codes first for clues.

Then do a fuel pressure test and test the FPR and fuel pump.

Also, don't forget to look for obvious vacuum leaks.

maxFL0

By silent codes do you mean codes that do not give you a check engine light?.. if so then the only one I have now is for the knock sensor.

markc32

Knock faults can come up due to te fact ur engine is stumbling.

Does it die right after u start it? How long does it stay running?

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

Yes, exactly.

Ok, I'd move on to looking for obvious vacuum leaks, then temporarily install a fuel pressure gauge and test the FPR and fuel pump.

One quick test is to pull the vacuum line off the FPR and see if any gas is present. If gas is present, the FPR is toast. Although not a dead giveaway that the FPR is bad (if no gas is present), it is one quick and easy test to perform.

I've personally seen a bad ECTS turn off a max while driving, but it didn't cause any rough idling, stumbling upon acceleration, or other side effects. So, I don't think this is the reason, but a quick check with your digital volt ohm meter can rule it out.

It could be the MAF.

Is the car driveable? Or are you saying it's un-driveable because these symptoms start as soon as you try to drive it?

jholley

iTrader: (13)

Did you replace the EGR gaskets or install the originals? While checking for vacuum leaks spray carb cleaner around the EGR. I saw a 97 stalling due to a leaking EGR valve.

maxFL0

It will run good for a while.. n then it would start hesitating/jerking and idling like ****.. n then it would run fine again and then bad again.. so I'm thinkin bad maf maybe?

maxFL0

I reused the original gaskets. I will check for vacuum leaks in the morning.. I do appreciate all the great feedback you guys are giving me

markc32

It mite not be any leaks at all. If u have a leak, it'll always run crappy cold or hot.

Seems like te ecu gets confused of air fuel ratio based on temperature reading.

markc32

Try rescanning..clear faults and see what comes back.