max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

welp, the front calipers have been sticking and 1 is 18 months old and 1 is 6 years old and i decided that it's time to do everything at once. so, the pads are shot at 1/30 seconds on drivers side and 3 to 4/30 seconds on passenger side and were new with the rotors, rotors aren't destroyed, just a little hilly.

going to resurface them cause they're only 5 months old and have plenty of meat left on them. brake lines however are original so i decided to replace them cause i think they are mushy feeling and are probably causing the calipers to stick causing premature pad and rotor wear.

dong new akibono proact pads with everything and new fluid will be added. should feel like a new car with all the parts i'm putting on, anything else need to be done while i'm in there?
master cylinder is original and has 246,000 on it and had black fluid in it and was half empty so i topped it off while i was waiting for all the parts to show, calipers sticking the reason for the fluid turning black?? any suggestions and comments would be appreciated.

also: if there's any dampness on the master cylinder do i need to replace it? or is there a connection or place to look for a leak, thanks

KP11520

Get decent calipers and hoses. Maybe a hardware set/kit if the pads don't come with the clips and shims and grease.

Are your rotors anything special or Napa every day Rotors? Having Rotors turned costs almost as much as buying new Napa stock Rotors. If they are the more expensive types, carry on.

Now after all is said and done, take it to a place that can do a "Power Bleed". They open all the valves and flush out the system and make sure they are bled properly. Hard brake pedal once more!

I just did my rear pads, hardware kit, rotors and calipers and hoses. I had the whole system Power Bled. Now the car stops like someone's going through the windshield! LOL

If you bleed it yourself (with help of course), get LOTS of Dot 3 and flush it until all is clear. Also use the 4th Gen Maxima proper wheel bleed order/process.

kjlouis

Whats the proper order?

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

the rotors are brembo blanks, totally worth turning for 30 bux!!! won't take more than 2/30 seconds off the thickness and they said they can make sure they're even on both sides so the pads marry up to them with equal precision.

KP11520

The Bleeding order is something like:

Left Rear First, then Right Front, then..

Right Rear, then Left Front (driver) last.

Please check. I'm not 100% sure this is the Nissan FSM order.

Brembo's are worth turning for sure!

Finkle

Unless our cars are different, the order I always used was furthest away from the master cylinder first, so Rear pass, Rear driver, Front pass, Front driver

CS_AR

I can tell you I'm running Akibono ProACT pads on the heavy G50 in this picture. The ratings are true. Good stopping power without wheel dust.

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

that's how i knew the calipers were bad cause the wheels were never coated in black dust before. even dime thin these pads still stop the car decently.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

Always straight at the furtherest caliper first:
1. R/rear
2. L/rear
3. R/front
4. L/ front

KP11520

That is the logical order we all learned. When has anything been logical in the Max? LOL

Research the order as per Nissan , you will see when you find it.

lux97Max

iTrader: (24)

Wear gloves when messing with brake fluid its very toxic dont want it coming in contact with your skin. if your doing it yourself it can get messy.

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

yo m, nah, my mechanic is doing it cause i just don't have the time. can't wait to have dust free wheels and brakes that stop the car again. what wheels are those on yer max, did you finish the clay bar on the rest of the max? looks almost as good my max.....

lux97Max

iTrader: (24)

Thanks B! I have not yet. Those are TSW Trophy rims.