nissan_maxima_1997

Until the cold temperatures came, everything was fine. Now when I want to heaters to work, they blow only normal air, not hot. Also if I do a continuous ride, like 15-20 miles at a stretch the engine temperatures starts rising from the minimum to the maximum point. It starts from minimum because of the cold temperatures. I also understand that the car must not be driven if the engine temperatures go beyond the max indicator. Please suggest what to do.
Few tests which I did:
I filled the coolant reservoir with coolant antifreeze 50/50 liquid upto maximum level in it. When the engine was cold, I also checked the Radiator, the radiator has no fluid seen in it, when I open the covering cap on it.

Then I started the car, kept it on (10 - 15 minutes) till the engine temperature rose till middle of the indicator level, to see if the radiator fan starts or not. After the engine temperature reached the half level, my radiator fan started. So I think my radiator fan also works. One thing I am not sure of is that whether the coolant be filled in the coolant reservoir or in the radiator, until I see the radiator has enough coolant liquid in it.
Please let me know what do you feel about this and let me know if I have done something wrong or what more steps shall I do to figure out why my car overheats and the heater does not work.

KP11520

Maybe you've been leaking a while and the system has a lot of air in it???

Put it on an incline with the nose higher with the heat on the highest temp.. Open the radiator cap and fill it. This helps the air go to the highest point and gets if full with 50/50. Also make sure the reservoir is at leas half full. Run it a while and if you get no heat and it wants to overheat, Look at a thermostat. Maybe a flush in case there's corroded something blocking channels.

If you are low, you have a leak that needs to be fixed! Check your oil dipstick to make sure no antifreeze is in there as well.

Let us know how it goes! Good luck.

Careful to collect all the antifreeze whatever you do. It kills cats and dogs with one lick. People need two or more.

markc32

U may have low coolant to start.

Top up radiator and top up reservoir in the morning cold.

I see that u did that. Did it over heat again?

Check for coolant leaks and see if your thermostat hose also warms up when the gauge needle stays in the middle.

Gauge will show halfway mark but thermostat has not opened yet.

markc32

Only top up thru the reservoir.

If reservoir is low or empty there is a leak for sure.

Radiator uses reservoir and uses vacuum to pull coolant back.

Reservoir does go low a bit that's y we top off but it takes a long time for reservoir to go low if there isn't any leak.

asand1

iTrader: (1)

Vacuum doesnt happen until it heats up and cools down again. When the radiator is empty you must fill it directly unless you want a blown head gasket.

OP' you have a leak or a bad cap allowing the coolant to empty out, and you are blowing cool air because there is no hot water in the heater core.

Find the leak and fix it.

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

Fill the cooling system, both radiator and reserve bottle.
Check for leaks, repair as necessary.

nissan_maxima_1997

Hi,
I filled the antifreeze 50/50 in the radiator and within few minutes I saw it dripping on the floor. It is sure that there is a leak somewhere, what I am not sure of is whether it is the hoze, waterpump or the radiator itself. From the place it leaked, it was very close to the front right tyre. Can anybody suggest from the location of the leak, what might possibly the faulty part.

I know there are few leak seal liquids available for cheap. I am thinking of mixing that liquid with the 50/50 antifreeze, hoping it will seal any leak points and save my job. So I will pour this mixture in the Radiator again and see if it still leaks or has the liquid sealed the holes.

So now its clear that since there is leak somewhere my coolant cant circulate and hence hot air does not blow and my engine temperature rises a lot.

PH98I30

DO NOT add sealer crap into the radiator. It will clog everything up and cause more problems. If you have the splash guards still on the car, an actual radiator leak drips by the passenger tire. Check the radiator itself all around where the upper and lower tanks are glued to the metal coolant tubes. You should be able to see a leak by looking at the engine from above and below. Don't put sealer in your cooling system. It masks the real problem.

KP11520

Ditto on the sealant crap!

Got a friend with a coolant system pressurizing kit? Pump some pressure (you don't need the car running) and you'll easily hear the leak. With the coolant seeping out as a second confirmation.

The rest requires no guess work.

Get that done ASAP. It's Poison and the fastest way to trash your engine (needlessly). Well actually losing your oil pan really, but right behind that. LOL

asand1

iTrader: (1)

Pull the plastic shield from the bottom of the car. Run the car on ramps and observe for a leak. The water pump is near the right front tire. The weep hole is located behind the AC pump. Look for water dripping from the AC pump area.

nissan_maxima_1997

Hi,
I have a 1997 Nissan maxima. The name on the rear on the car was missing since I bought the car. I now understand that my radiator is broken and it needs replacement. I do not know how to find out the model type, whether it is a GLE, GXE or a SE. I need this information because when I searched for the auto part- radiator, it asks me for which model do I need a radiator. Can you please suggest a way to find out this information.

clive

VIN information. And pls don't hijack threads!

av8orjb

Not sure how he is hijacking the thread since he is the OP.

Radiator replacement is fairly easy on this car.

JvG

I bet that all the Maxima of the same year use the same radiator. Enter all three modes. The same part number should pop up.

Rit

iTrader: (3)

Assuming no changes were made :

Black gauges with Leather - GLE

White gauges (cloth or leather seats) - SE

Black Gauges and cloth seats - GXE

PH98I30

I just did my radiator 3 weeks ago. Easy job. You don't even have to remove the fans. They will easily come out with the radiator. I think the same rad works on all three models. I got mine at a local place for $85. You will want to get the 2 top rubber grommets. At the dealer, they were $5 for both. The bottoms ones are probably okay.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

Either by hand or with an Infared Thremometer look at your 2 heater hoses and see if the temps are the same "IN" and "OUT". If the temps are pretty close or the same then the heater core isn't clogged, but if they aren't the same nor close I would then remove one hose and see if there is coolant flow going thru the core! You can even try running hose water or air thru the core to see if there are any restrictions....

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

Too much information LOL.

GXE, SE and GLE all use the same radiator....just take your pick. Automatic transmissions use the integrated transmission oil cooler inside the radiator. The Manual maxima can use the same radiator with the tranny cooler lines blocked and ignored.

captchaos

I had the same exact problem as the OP last night. However my problem got worse overnight.

My Issue: I did have a leak a few months ago. The leak is fixed. When I filled the cooling system back up I just used water. I know I should have at least used a 50/50 mix.

It was very cold here in NJ yesterday/today. I went to start my car this morning. It would turn over but not start and she made a loud noise while turning over. It sounded horrible.

I tried starting a few times and I eventually killed the battery. I jumped the battery and she turned over again and started for a brief second before shutting off. A little white smoke came out the back.

Ok I think we can safely assume that the water in my cooling system froze last night and this is the reason for the problem. My question is... Did I do any damage? Will the car start once it thaws out? I put as much 50/50 in the radiator just now but it was only a few cups (I know I should have put straight antifreeze at this point.)

Thoughts???

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

Chances are you may have had some coolant in there, like maybe 35-40% so I wouldn't automatically jump to the cracked block doomsday scenario just yet. You probably have other starting issues, like ECT, FPR etc.

What is the general tune-up situation of your car? Maintenance history?

captchaos

Thank you for your response DWA...

I had the leak during the fall when it was warm and I was putting gallons & gallons of Just water in every week for over a month until I got the leak fixed. If there was any antifreeze in the system it was very very little. In fact I don't think there was any antifreeze in the system.

Last night was really cold (in the 20's.) It was the 1st cold night since I fixed the leak. The sound the car made when I turned the key was loud and nasty. How could I have no issues and then all of a sudden it's the coldest night of the season and this happens?

I have a buddy that's a mechanic and we keep up on the car:
Things replaced in last 2 years: radiator, coil packs, tune up, Clutch, alternator & belts, battery, starter, valve cover gasket, Knock sensor, exhaust from cat back, flex pipe, harmonic balancer, etc...

I'm not pulling any codes.

Would the car start if water was frozen in the cooling system?

captchaos

Somehow the car started up no problem and that horrible noise went away.

However I'm still blowing cold air when I have the heat on the temp gauge rises fast.

I tried running the car at idle and adding 50/50 but I can only get a cup or 2 in. Then it bubbles and starts shooting out.
Thoughts?

theWalkinator

Try to flush the heater core if you have an air compressor, or with a garden hose.

clive

The "horrible noise" may well have been your water pump being destroyed. Check for adequate water flow before doing anything else.

asand1

iTrader: (1)

This was my response from the other thread he jacked also. Ice plus a chain drive water pump will not be good.

captchaos

I thought you should not start/post a new thread if there is an existing thread talking about your issue?

asand1

iTrader: (1)

You should search and read these threads as you obviously have. Then start your own thread to limit confusion. And keep it to just one thread.

maximadd

Definitely low on coolant. If you don't burp the system properly when the car is at operating temperature or your leaking coolant constantly. To burp the system put a funnel in the radiator and keep the funnel full of coolant the air bubble should come of out of the funnel. Continue until all the bubbles are out. There's also a chance your water pump is bad usually you can see the water circulating when the motor is warm if you look into the radiator. Make sure not to open the radiator when the motor is warm. Once the radiator is pressurized if it's opened it will blow coolant out at you.