99 maxima doesn't always start.
#1
99 maxima doesn't always start.
Hi guys, i'
ve searched around online and through forums for this already but cant find anything that i haven't done yet.
So i have a 99 Maxima and i did an engine swap with a 97 Maxima. it ran great for about a year now but it started getting harder and harder to start until one day it wouldn't even click. that's a simple problem for me. i was a mechanic at a shop for a year so this was common, especially for Nissan. i replaced the ignition switch, and it started right up. a few days later and it wouldn't start again. it would click like the starter engaged but wouldn't spin. so i did some diagnostic and figured out it was the solenoid. i went to my local pull-a-part and pulled off a starter solenoid from a 98 Maxima. started right up and worked great. that was about a week ago, this morning it wouldn't start (by the way its my girlfriends car) so my girlfriend took my car to work and when i went outside to see what was wrong, it started right up.... Its done this before where you have to turn the key a couple of times before something happens. sometimes it starts sometimes it doesn't.
I know the starters good. The solenoid was in great condition so im pretty sure thats good. the ignition switch is brand new so Im sure that's good also. i don't really know what else to do at this point. unless its one of the starter relays going out slowly?? im not sure. any help would be great! thanks guys!
oh! and when it doesn't start it just clicks like it would, if the battery was dead. or like it did when it had a bad solenoid. I also replaced the battery terminals and last i checked the battery was good.
ve searched around online and through forums for this already but cant find anything that i haven't done yet.
So i have a 99 Maxima and i did an engine swap with a 97 Maxima. it ran great for about a year now but it started getting harder and harder to start until one day it wouldn't even click. that's a simple problem for me. i was a mechanic at a shop for a year so this was common, especially for Nissan. i replaced the ignition switch, and it started right up. a few days later and it wouldn't start again. it would click like the starter engaged but wouldn't spin. so i did some diagnostic and figured out it was the solenoid. i went to my local pull-a-part and pulled off a starter solenoid from a 98 Maxima. started right up and worked great. that was about a week ago, this morning it wouldn't start (by the way its my girlfriends car) so my girlfriend took my car to work and when i went outside to see what was wrong, it started right up.... Its done this before where you have to turn the key a couple of times before something happens. sometimes it starts sometimes it doesn't.
I know the starters good. The solenoid was in great condition so im pretty sure thats good. the ignition switch is brand new so Im sure that's good also. i don't really know what else to do at this point. unless its one of the starter relays going out slowly?? im not sure. any help would be great! thanks guys!
oh! and when it doesn't start it just clicks like it would, if the battery was dead. or like it did when it had a bad solenoid. I also replaced the battery terminals and last i checked the battery was good.
Last edited by 68cutlass425ci; 11-23-2014 at 09:31 AM.
#3
Inspect the Park/neutral safety switch (Automatic transmission). Its mounted in front of the transmission. Your car may think its in gear and not in park and that may be why its difficult to start.
Last edited by lux97Max; 11-23-2014 at 01:56 PM.
#4
In addition to the good member suggestions above, I would check the opposite end of the battery cables and other body to engine/transmission ground wires for rusty connections. Maxima's need good grounding. There may be a rusty cable end somewhere that is barely making contact.
There are two engine crankshaft sensors. One on the front of the engine just under the crankshaft pulley and the other is on the rear that senses flywheel movement. The front sensor usually picks up a lot of oil, grit, and road chemicals. The rear isn't normally exposed to oil but I've seen the contacts get corroded and I've seen metal shavings from starter gear wear collect on the rear sensor's magnet. It's always a good idea to clean and inspect the crankshaft sensors and verify the electrical connections are making good contact and there is nothing sticking to the magnets when starting problems occur. Though I haven't personally experienced a bad sensor causing a starter to fail to engage like you are experiencing.
Since the 99 model has the NATS immobilization system. Remember to keep the driver's door closed when you are having problems starting the engine. I've had my 99 model accidentally immobilized when running a compression test with the driver's door was left open. There is a rule like 3 to 5 unsuccessful starting attempts with the door open and the immobilizer can get tripped. Getting the immobilizer reset often requires the vehicle be towed to the dealer and a one hour labor charge.
SIDE NOTE: Cool profile name. I once owned a silver on black 69 442 4 speed 12 bolt posi-trac rear-end without A/C..
There are two engine crankshaft sensors. One on the front of the engine just under the crankshaft pulley and the other is on the rear that senses flywheel movement. The front sensor usually picks up a lot of oil, grit, and road chemicals. The rear isn't normally exposed to oil but I've seen the contacts get corroded and I've seen metal shavings from starter gear wear collect on the rear sensor's magnet. It's always a good idea to clean and inspect the crankshaft sensors and verify the electrical connections are making good contact and there is nothing sticking to the magnets when starting problems occur. Though I haven't personally experienced a bad sensor causing a starter to fail to engage like you are experiencing.
Since the 99 model has the NATS immobilization system. Remember to keep the driver's door closed when you are having problems starting the engine. I've had my 99 model accidentally immobilized when running a compression test with the driver's door was left open. There is a rule like 3 to 5 unsuccessful starting attempts with the door open and the immobilizer can get tripped. Getting the immobilizer reset often requires the vehicle be towed to the dealer and a one hour labor charge.
SIDE NOTE: Cool profile name. I once owned a silver on black 69 442 4 speed 12 bolt posi-trac rear-end without A/C..
Last edited by CS_AR; 11-23-2014 at 05:00 PM.
#5
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 16,033
A click with no spinning of the engine in definately not sensor related.
If your getting the click, then the solenoid is engaging. Pulling a used starter doesn't guarantee its working correctly. Verify all power and ground connections are clean and solid. Replace the starter with a new unit if it stii gives you trouble turning the engine over.
If your getting the click, then the solenoid is engaging. Pulling a used starter doesn't guarantee its working correctly. Verify all power and ground connections are clean and solid. Replace the starter with a new unit if it stii gives you trouble turning the engine over.
#7
If you decide to replace the starter, I've seen another member report issues with "New China" made starters. Personally, I bought a bad "New China" starter earlier this year. The starter would not disengage and made a loud humming noise until the battery was disconnected.
Some years ago, I picked up a new looking Remy Rebuilt from a wrecked Maxima that I installed in my I30. Its still working great.
Some years ago, I picked up a new looking Remy Rebuilt from a wrecked Maxima that I installed in my I30. Its still working great.
#9
If it sounds anything like this. Its your starter.
1998 Maxima New After Market Starter vs OEM Nissa…: http://youtu.be/BzMZvGA9u3w
1998 Maxima New After Market Starter vs OEM Nissa…: http://youtu.be/BzMZvGA9u3w
#10
Cool video Lux..
I snapped this pic after New China starter started giving trouble. I exchanged it for the Remy Rebuilt in the center. I've noticed the China starters have a different looking drive gear. That may be part of the problem.
I snapped this pic after New China starter started giving trouble. I exchanged it for the Remy Rebuilt in the center. I've noticed the China starters have a different looking drive gear. That may be part of the problem.
#11
Yeah, the China ones definitely do. I was so upset after I installed it. I thought it was going to fix my problem but it just made it worst. I thought I wasn't going to get my money back, because I already installed the part. Luckily, the parts guy was cool and refunded my money. Before I did this I got an Oem starter and decided to make a before and after video. I want to help people who don't know about this re-occuring issue.
Last edited by lux97Max; 11-23-2014 at 05:54 PM.
#12
Check for voltage drop on the cables.
Pull the switch and try starting with a screw driver. Search here for ignition switch slop.
When swapping the engine, did you clean the engine/bell housing mating surfaces?
Pull the switch and try starting with a screw driver. Search here for ignition switch slop.
When swapping the engine, did you clean the engine/bell housing mating surfaces?
#13
I have replaced two New China starters. Avoid them at all costs, even though you might have a life time warranty with Advance Auto Parts or whoever, it is annoying when it fails. I asked Advance if they would just give me the Remy Rebuilt one instead of the New China starter, but they are not allowed to do that.
#14
Thanks guys! I really appreciate the thoughts! I don't feel like its the starter, but who knows. Next time it doesn't start I'll see if I can remember to record it. I'll also check the crank sensors and the other end of the battery cables. I haven't even thought of checking those.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
BobMax
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
1
08-15-2015 12:35 PM
erniel
7th Generation Maxima (2009-2015)
1
08-08-2015 09:32 AM