Flipper

Scanned and no engine or transmission codes.
Get great gas mileage. NO check engine light. Smooth acceleration.

car almost seems like there is a miss at idle in drive with brake on. Could be considered a stutter or stumble.
it is not consistent but irratic.
It stops when car is shifted into Neutral. It appears that it is transmission related.
Changed trans fluid and added a conditioner.
I'm stumped.
Thanks for looking.

JoshG

is it stalling out? May be Mass Air Flow Sensor Failing.

need more information what your problem is.

maxfever1987

iTrader: (93)

Ave you scanned to see if there's any pending codes?

CS_AR

+1 --> I 've replaced MAFs on all of my 4th gens at roughly ~150,000 miles or ~250,000 miles. I picked up a Nissan OEM from a salvage yard.

Check out this video for how to TEST a 4th Gen MAF.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ewjO9JVr8NU

Maxima 97 SE

is your idle at 500 rpm in drive and are there vibrations only in drive but not in neutral. If so then its normal becuase some 4th gens have a low idle in drive at a stop only. When you come to a stop the idle start dropping really low low to 500 rpm and it stay there and nobody on the forums know how to fix and i even asked a lot of people and nobody had a clue why it did that. But one thing you should do is clean your throttle body it will make the idle and stuttering go away as air will flow freely through the car as also it causes the throttle body plate stick too the gunk and in return causes a stutter.

Flipper

Idle is just about 600. Throttle body clean, Air Filter (KN) cleaned and reoiled. Plugs recent change. NO Check engine light. No codes in engine
or transmission.
I think it is in the trans. It goes away when shifted into neutral.

jholley

iTrader: (13)

It's not your transmission. Stuttering at idle is a common symptom for these high mileaged A32s.

Try cleaning your air intake system

https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...g-dummies.html

I had a K&N oiled air filter that spread oil over my MAF and caused RPM rattling. As shown in that thread clean your MAF first. Your idling is normal at 600rpm.

KP11520

I had something similar. Turn on your A/C or Defrost. If the stumble gets worse, it might be a coil pack.

No codes were thrown. Just the stumble in Drive made worse when the A/C compressor was engaged.

It was the coil pack for #3.

You can do the unhook one coil pack at a time and if it gets worse, it's usually good. If you disconnect one and no change, that's most likely bad, despite no codes.

I hope this helps! Good luck!

cashoit

Sounds like you Idle Air Control Valve is on its way out. If the car hesitates only at idle but drives completely fine, then the MAF is good.

Test IACV per FSM. Clean per .Org procedure. Throw some chevron techron in that bish!

Could also be faulty plugs or coilpacks as well. Check those too. Hopefully, you dont have a short or faulty rear bank injector.

DBear

Are your plugs NGK? I had the same problem, replaced my plugs with NGKs, and it went away.

Flipper

Update:
changed the oil.
cleaned the maf.
tested all coil packs... all are firing.
listened to all the injectors and they are all firing.
Plugs are E3 and have been in for I would guess 20,000 miles.
This problem just came up. Mileage has been outstanding as is acceleration.
Have SeaFoam in tank, and added some Marvel Mystery Oil, cause this is a mystery.

still stutters in drive at idle. 600rpm.

More ideas please. thanks

KP11520

E3 plugs?

Their marketing sounds interesting! Never heard of them before you posted that you used them, but that's more my ignorance I'm sure.

Have a lot of 4th gen people used them with great results?

I only ask because the mechanics at the Dealers always say use NGK and NOT Bosch. Whatever differences are NOT subtle with 4th Gen Maxima's.

Maybe these E3's fall on the "other" side of the fence. Just throwing this out because if all else is in order. my mind goes here next!

Good luck!

asand1

iTrader: (1)

Get rid of the E3s and put in NGKs. The VQ30 is picky about plugs and only runs good on the specced NGKs.

This has been proven time and again here on the ORG.

Sent from my XT1060 using Maxima

LuminousX

when I just got my maxima, I looked up E3, but then before I got to buying them I joined the Org, and then I learned that it's not so good for this type of car, nut that it's not a good product

Flipper

I hadn't checked the forum for input on the E3 plugs. But I am aware of the manufacturers having real specific plug requests. So I am going to do the replug do wah and keep my fingers crossed.

Thanks everyone. and I will report back in.

KP11520

Please do! I'd love to know the deal about NGK really being the only ones!

Thanks!

Flipper

Put the NGK's back in taking out the E3's.
E3's looked fine.
Car is still stuttering in drive at idle. No progess with this approach.

I can't be the only one out here can I. Or maybe I can, as I do believe the car to be possessed.

Flipper

CS_AR

Where are you located? How long have you owned the car?

If you are near me I would plug you into my Nissan Data Scan software to rule out a couple of items.

What color Nissan label is on your MAF?

Have you cleaned and tested the IACV per instruction above?

JoshG

video's help alot for looking up your problem.

asand1

iTrader: (1)

Did you put NEW NGKs in, or did you really just "put the NGKs back in"?

Any spark plug tubes full of oil?

Flipper

Cashoit WINS.... His suggestion:
"Sounds like you Idle Air Control Valve is on its way out. If the car hesitates only at idle but drives completely fine, then the MAF is good.

Test IACV per FSM. Clean per .Org procedure. Throw some chevron techron in that bish!"

So I followed his direction. I replaced it with one with 85k miles, and cleaned it well withcarb cleaner and brass wire brush, making sure when reinstalling I had the o'ring installed. I carb cleaned the intake and wiped down with rag. I also flushed in the inlet pipe with carb cleaner until it ran out of port. After reinstall I again filled the inlet with carb cleaner, replaced hose. With th carb cleaner soaking in the valve it was cranky to start, but with gas it finally caught and runs like a new car again.

Car is in Denver Colorado and probably has is entire life.

Thanks to all who offered suggestions. Success is sweet.
Here are some pictures of the unit.








Oh almost forgot. I AM PUTTING THE E3 PLUGS BACK IN. THEY PERFORMED VERY WELL AND I DID EXPERIENCE AN INCREASE IN GAS MILEAGE.....

Flipper

The stumbling is back.
Almost seems like it has something to do with temperature.
Cold engine doesn't seem to do it.
Now it has gone from just idle to being present while normal driving.
Tried another can of Sea Foam. no results.

Still goes away when shifting into neutral. Idle speed is 800

I'm in Denver. Anyone know any body who can diagnose?

JoshG

coolant temperature sensor or something like that. has to be.

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

I think it's either a fuel injector or coil pack failing. Leaning more towards a coil.

a32skyl1ne

I have the same year 170k miles, I replaced my iacv with a newer one, just did a pcv valve and droped the bottom half of gasket into the valve cover... new air hoses, cleaned egr, I have no clue but mine does the same exact thing. Also in Denver could it be something about the thin air?????

Flipper

Don't think its Denver thin air, as it hadn't done it before.
Remember no Check Engine Light.
Not the coil as previously checked.
Each injector is clicking like its neighbors.

bumpypickle

iTrader: (1)

have the same problem whenever my p0801 code pops up whenever i go over 100 on my auto and idle back in town.

a32skyl1ne

I have no codes either but the same problem, I'm trying to figure out what it is as well

deezo

iTrader: (3)

I have this problem when the temps outside are hot. I had a thread on it back last spring but no one could help me figure it out. I did everything you did and the problem still exists. I think it may have something to do with the 02 sensors since I do have that code. The car has been fine for several years but started this stumbling bit last spring.

Nothing everyone here has recommended works to cure this issue. The problem is electronic so Seafoaming is not going to fix it. At some point, I'm probably going to take it in to the dealership to do the idle relearn done and to run some sort of diag to help me get rid of the rest of my codes. I changed my temp sensor also and the problem still exists when it's hot out but at least I can start the car after it sits for 20 min. It was hard to do before the replacement.

Even changed my coils and the problem still existed after.

TurboA32

iTrader: (36)

The car is old so check all vacuum lines and plastic parts for breaks in them

CS_AR

Has the MAF been tested using a multi-meter and the procedure provided in this video?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ewjO9JVr8NU

a32skyl1ne

job, and I have replaced the maf once already, I haven't looked into 02 sensors but I think I will now that a good idea I haven't ever changed them and if my muffler has holes in it I bet those can't be doing too good thanks for the suggestions

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

i have 265,000 on my original coils, maf is original as well and i've cleaned it 3 times over the years. i have a k&n air filter which i dropped in new last spring and i think my problem is either iacv or tps related

cause i get a dip in power at takeoff (randomly) and revs to 1500 in park at idle after a short drive and has done that for years and i always figured it was the mileage and the age that caused that. the idle

revving has gotten worse, and the power loss is usually after she warms up, no codes at all. i did a seafoam yesterday and will check the air filter today to see what it looks like, it's probably clean.

a32skyl1ne

So I finally got a code off of her p0130 bank 1 02 sensor I checked it out yesterday and it is right below the rear valve cover, the old gasket leaked all over it, so gonna pull it and try to clean it, I don't get paid for a while so it's my only option right now, that and the wires look 20 years old lol, I'll let you guys know how it goes, the first time I started having this problem the person who I bought the car from forgot to clip the tps to tcm harness down, so I think it might be tps sensor related for you because mine revvd up to about 1200 when it was not connected well

JoshG

unconnected, bad sensors can do all kinds of things... Like right now I have a EGR/knock sensor job to do, but I want to do it right. I could do it right now since i have the $ for the job, I want to install a OEM nissan knock sensor in there.. I do have a $11 knock sensor with me but I dont think those would last long compaired to the $100 OEM knock sensor..

but those 2 codes make my car run aight, sometimes my car stays at 1.5k RPM while driving as if something was clogged.. hence EGR , I can Rev to 4-4.5k RPM from a complete stop.

Knock sensor- sometime when i drive I feel "metal" is vibrating which is telling me the knock sensor metal part is cracked and makes metal vibration sounds when i drive..doesn't make those sounds all the times though.

btw only have 134k miles.

Flipper

It's in the secondary ignition. I never replaced the (wires) the boots from the coil to the plug. I have replaced all the boots, (cheap on Ebay about $12.00) and put back in the E3 plugs and the car has returned to being a favorite.
Everything else was an exercize in remove and replace. Even though no codes.
If you use Carquest the part numbers are 35-6213 and 35-6214 with the longer ones going to the rear. They are technically termed COP Boot & Spring