Pass D/S issues
01-11-2015, 05:20 PM
#1
Pass D/S issues
Bought a brand new passenger Drive axle assy for my 98 A/T Maxima and it seems too freaking long, approx. 10 mm to long....I'm curious if I'm missing something, but the splines engage flawlessly and it appear to bottom out 10 mm, B4 the bearing seats against bearing support flange....there's no difference in the LSD or Non-LSD from what I've researched...When I try to force it in the passenger D/S does rotate anymore! So something is wrong and the D/S is Mfg in China...I'll retry it again, but I don't have the (Old)removed D/S amymore...to compare it to...So maybe I'll do a field test in a junkyard....
01-11-2015, 05:36 PM
#2
Drivers side for lsd is different than open diff.
Not sure about the lengths, but they are visually different.
Passenger side is the same no matter what trans.
Make sure you've compressed both by standing them up together to see if the 10mm is just coming from not being seated all the way in the boot so appearing longer.
Not sure about the lengths, but they are visually different.
Passenger side is the same no matter what trans.
Make sure you've compressed both by standing them up together to see if the 10mm is just coming from not being seated all the way in the boot so appearing longer.
01-12-2015, 12:34 AM
#4
It lined up great with the carrier bearing support bracket but bottoms out inside the transmission side 10 mm before the flange is seating flush with the carrier bearing bracket...I'm looking for my old axle to compare the distance between the splined section and machined portion!!!!! I think this is the problem I normally haven't had an issue with the dozens I done thru the years, but the Made In China factor wasn't in the equation either.... Fakie J farkerton the problem's between the carrier support bearing and the Differential....not the CV boot area...Yeah My driverside is in and was the original and I'm saw that the Driver's side is different for the A/T LSD and Open Differential....anyway I'm sure The maker f'd up. if you gotta force it there's something wrong...thx guys....I'm keep yall posted!
01-12-2015, 10:54 AM
#5
On an automatic transmission car:
the length of the LSD axle is 25 1/16" compressed.
The non-LSD axle is 25 1/16" compressed
Also, the LSD axle has 2 sets of splines (29&31) on the end that goes into the differential, while the non LSD axle has only one set (29).
the length of the LSD axle is 25 1/16" compressed.
The non-LSD axle is 25 1/16" compressed
Also, the LSD axle has 2 sets of splines (29&31) on the end that goes into the differential, while the non LSD axle has only one set (29).
01-12-2015, 03:35 PM
#6
Sent from my XT1060 using Maxima
01-13-2015, 12:41 AM
#7
29/31 is on the driver's side....That's not my problem! The compressed length is regarding the CV joints and boots!!! That's not my problem either! My problem is the straight shaft between the bearing support bracket and the differential! That splined section and the machine surface on the inboard end is my problem....
01-13-2015, 06:30 PM
#9
Hey Guys as I figured that made in China crap (APWI) was assembled wrong!!!! The inner driveshaft was wrong for the assembly....the area between the splined end and the machined section was too small and that's why it was bottoming out prematurely upon sliding the shaft into the differential....The new D/S assy had about another 1/2" space between the splined section and the machined section! Thx for the help Guys/Gals!!!! I got lucky and exchanged D/S at the same auto parts with no problem....
01-20-2015, 12:35 PM
#11
Drove my "Free Maxima" to work today....that's the first time here since about May of 2014....Was driving a 98 Ford ZX2 that was for my daughter....(pretty fun but small) and a 2014 Chevy Cruze (tight interior but nimble)...So it's a little different having all the extra leg and shoulder room....I still have an issue and it's a small oil seep between the block and rear timing cover... 241,000 miles maybe I'll fix it or swap in my 03 VQ35!!!! still
01-21-2015, 06:14 PM
#13
Almost a for sure engine pull.....Not sure I wanna battle with it in the car....I think the easiest way in he car would be to use guide studs too mount each piece before installing the actual bolts and this method would free up ones hands....It would be easy as hell to apply all the sealant too, let's say the rear timing cover assy.; set it in place upon the guide studs then get all you needed bolts started, remove the guide studs and install the remaining bolts, and the same with the outer timing cover....It will allow me to use two hands and install without a big RTV mess! Wanna go with OEM timing but engine has 242,000 miles and I'm really not beating the dog crap out of it so maybe a Rockauto timing kit will do....kinda thinking about it!
01-21-2015, 06:49 PM
#14
Ebay has decent price on timing ksets but no Names revealed or brands unknown...I'll probably do Sealed Power, ITM, or Enginetech....I've bought CLoyes before (Never Again!!!!) on my D21 and there chain stretched in 50, 000 miles!
01-22-2015, 02:48 AM
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Central AR
Posts: 3,041
I think the easiest way in he car would be to use guide studs too mount each piece before installing the actual bolts and this method would free up ones hands....It would be easy as hell to apply all the sealant too, let's say the rear timing cover assy.; set it in place upon the guide studs then get all you needed bolts started, remove the guide studs and install the remaining bolts, and the same with the outer timing cover....It will allow me to use two hands and install without a big RTV mess!
01-24-2015, 05:30 AM
#17
Hey Guys as I figured that made in China crap (APWI) was assembled wrong!!!! The inner driveshaft was wrong for the assembly....the area between the splined end and the machined section was too small and that's why it was bottoming out prematurely upon sliding the shaft into the differential....The new D/S assy had about another 1/2" space between the splined section and the machined section! Thx for the help Guys/Gals!!!! I got lucky and exchanged D/S at the same auto parts with no problem....
Spinning one tire while jacked up in neutral resulted in the opposite tire turning the same direction. The shaft was pressing into the diff pin causing the side gear and diff housing to be effectively locked together. No long term harm done though and I'm sure its loosened up over the last couple years.
Sent from my XT1060 using Maxima
01-25-2015, 10:29 AM
#19
I've been looking at it closely and there seems to be enough room to do this in the car once I remove a few things....I just hope my transmission makes it up to that point....Seems that there some slippage after hitting a massive curb in which I rebuilt my entire front end....My buddy that owned the for years says I should have used some Lucas Transmisson treatment when I refilled the transmission. First of all the last time I change the transmission fluid was due to the transmission oil pan being cracked and I never added any Lucas then and I refilled with Pennzoil ATF3 and it seemed to shift good ...But this time I couldn't find Pennzoil so I used Valvoline (I'm not a Valvoline fan). Anyway I added a quart of luces and it seems to be doing the trick....But I'll see if I can make some band adjustments to quicken the 1 to 2 shift a slght bit...I'm sure with the right overhaul manual I can rebuild this automatic transmission. Maybe I can find decent unit in the salvage yard along with it's TCM...and rebuild my unit, just thinking out loud....
Last edited by CMax03; 01-25-2015 at 10:33 AM.
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