No Codes Hard start after multiple parts changeOLD problem New Thread
01-25-2015, 06:57 PM
#1
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No Codes Hard start after multiple parts changeOLD problem New Thread
So maxima had a hard start problem when either hot or cold.With the help of the forum members here, It turned out to be the the Coolant temp sensor.
1995 Maxima GLE Automatic 145k
Heres what has been changed with new parts so far over the past week.
Both Crankshaft sensors underneath the car(OEM)
Camshaft sensor(OEM)
Fuel Pressure Regulator
Coolant Temp Sensor(OEM)
I have around 5 extra grounds on this car(https://maxima.org/forums/4th-generation-maxima-1995-1999/641751-just-installed-homemade-grounding-kit.html)
Battery is 6 months old and fully charged 12.53 Volts
The one thing that I noticed is that I don't hear a buzzing sound when when turning the key anymore. Prior to the install of the Fuel Pressure Regulator i could hear a buzzing sound(fuel pump priming maybe). But now when the new one on, I don't don't really hear a buzz any more only kinda click sound.
The car will eventually start after a long hold of the key for 5+ seconds or by holding down the gas pedal(WOT) while starting.
The car is the hardest to start when WARM/HOT.
Car runs fine once it is started, no codes.
What I'm thinking about checking next is looking at the factor grounds, I assumed that the grounds I put in would "make up" for any factory ground problems.
Need help from those with the right knowledge.
1995 Maxima GLE Automatic 145k
Heres what has been changed with new parts so far over the past week.
Both Crankshaft sensors underneath the car(OEM)
Camshaft sensor(OEM)
Fuel Pressure Regulator
Coolant Temp Sensor(OEM)
I have around 5 extra grounds on this car(https://maxima.org/forums/4th-generation-maxima-1995-1999/641751-just-installed-homemade-grounding-kit.html)
Battery is 6 months old and fully charged 12.53 Volts
The one thing that I noticed is that I don't hear a buzzing sound when when turning the key anymore. Prior to the install of the Fuel Pressure Regulator i could hear a buzzing sound(fuel pump priming maybe). But now when the new one on, I don't don't really hear a buzz any more only kinda click sound.
The car will eventually start after a long hold of the key for 5+ seconds or by holding down the gas pedal(WOT) while starting.
The car is the hardest to start when WARM/HOT.
Car runs fine once it is started, no codes.
What I'm thinking about checking next is looking at the factor grounds, I assumed that the grounds I put in would "make up" for any factory ground problems.
Need help from those with the right knowledge.
Last edited by augnon; 01-26-2015 at 06:43 AM.
01-25-2015, 08:13 PM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Central AR
Posts: 3,041
When I had a similar issue that was from uncontrollable flooding. If the car would sit overnight or for 24 hours it was easier to start because the excess fuel had evaporated.
The flooding was caused by two leaking injectors. In addition to broken pintle caps, I think the o-rings finally start leaking. Leaking injector o-rings allows too much fuel to be dumped into the cylinders. I would check for white smoke from the exhaust that indicates un-burned fuel when it starts and look for fuel soaked spark plugs. Since the flooding problem had been occurring for a while, by the time I found the issue, my catalytic converters were cooked and clogged. I removed the O2 sensors from the exhaust bungs to check for clogged cats so the engine could breathe. That also made it easier to start. I replaced the upstream cats with a WarpspeedPerformance Y-pipe that remedied the cat problem.
I'm sure other members will chime in with other causes as well.
I refurbished my injectors by installing new o-rings, pintle caps, and screens using a $34 kit I purchased on eBay.
The flooding was caused by two leaking injectors. In addition to broken pintle caps, I think the o-rings finally start leaking. Leaking injector o-rings allows too much fuel to be dumped into the cylinders. I would check for white smoke from the exhaust that indicates un-burned fuel when it starts and look for fuel soaked spark plugs. Since the flooding problem had been occurring for a while, by the time I found the issue, my catalytic converters were cooked and clogged. I removed the O2 sensors from the exhaust bungs to check for clogged cats so the engine could breathe. That also made it easier to start. I replaced the upstream cats with a WarpspeedPerformance Y-pipe that remedied the cat problem.
I'm sure other members will chime in with other causes as well.
I refurbished my injectors by installing new o-rings, pintle caps, and screens using a $34 kit I purchased on eBay.
Last edited by CS_AR; 01-25-2015 at 08:19 PM.
01-25-2015, 08:49 PM
#5
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 451
First tell me how many miles are on the car. I think it might be your fuel pressure regulator. A bad fuel pressure regulator will not leak fuel like most people say. It will just stop holding fuel pressure and in return you will get extended cranking before it starts. Now same goes for a bad fuel pump. But let me tell you that most sensors don't go bad and causes hard start issues like that. I'm not saying they don't, but u should always check ur fuel pressure and then replace any sensor from there.
01-26-2015, 04:58 AM
#6
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Central AR
Posts: 3,041
^^ +1 for the OP checking fuel pressure as a good place to start.
It looks like a similar issue that was earlier resolved by replacing the Engine Coolant Temp Sensor (ECTS) with an OEM. The faulty ECTS thought the engine was cold when it was warm and allowed too much fuel delivery.
Here's the thread where the ECTS problem was resolved in the link below.
https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...injectors.html
It looks like a similar issue that was earlier resolved by replacing the Engine Coolant Temp Sensor (ECTS) with an OEM. The faulty ECTS thought the engine was cold when it was warm and allowed too much fuel delivery.
Here's the thread where the ECTS problem was resolved in the link below.
https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...injectors.html
Last edited by CS_AR; 01-26-2015 at 06:21 AM.
01-26-2015, 06:45 AM
#7
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Denver From Houston Lived in Boston
Posts: 242
When I had a similar issue that was from uncontrollable flooding. If the car would sit overnight or for 24 hours it was easier to start because the excess fuel had evaporated.
The flooding was caused by two leaking injectors. In addition to broken pintle caps, I think the o-rings finally start leaking. Leaking injector o-rings allows too much fuel to be dumped into the cylinders. I would check for white smoke from the exhaust that indicates un-burned fuel when it starts and look for fuel soaked spark plugs. Since the flooding problem had been occurring for a while, by the time I found the issue, my catalytic converters were cooked and clogged. I removed the O2 sensors from the exhaust bungs to check for clogged cats so the engine could breathe. That also made it easier to start. I replaced the upstream cats with a WarpspeedPerformance Y-pipe that remedied the cat problem.
I'm sure other members will chime in with other causes as well.
I refurbished my injectors by installing new o-rings, pintle caps, and screens using a $34 kit I purchased on eBay.
The flooding was caused by two leaking injectors. In addition to broken pintle caps, I think the o-rings finally start leaking. Leaking injector o-rings allows too much fuel to be dumped into the cylinders. I would check for white smoke from the exhaust that indicates un-burned fuel when it starts and look for fuel soaked spark plugs. Since the flooding problem had been occurring for a while, by the time I found the issue, my catalytic converters were cooked and clogged. I removed the O2 sensors from the exhaust bungs to check for clogged cats so the engine could breathe. That also made it easier to start. I replaced the upstream cats with a WarpspeedPerformance Y-pipe that remedied the cat problem.
I'm sure other members will chime in with other causes as well.
I refurbished my injectors by installing new o-rings, pintle caps, and screens using a $34 kit I purchased on eBay.
Haven't noticed any white smoke, I held my hand over the exhaust and din't smell any gas either. I probably should check the spark plugs, they might bee too far gone if they have been getting soaked with fuel, despite them being only 3 years old. Cat is only 3 years old also.
01-26-2015, 06:47 AM
#8
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Denver From Houston Lived in Boston
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First tell me how many miles are on the car. I think it might be your fuel pressure regulator. A bad fuel pressure regulator will not leak fuel like most people say. It will just stop holding fuel pressure and in return you will get extended cranking before it starts. Now same goes for a bad fuel pump. But let me tell you that most sensors don't go bad and causes hard start issues like that. I'm not saying they don't, but u should always check ur fuel pressure and then replace any sensor from there.
The fuel pressure regulator is brand new from Advanced Auto BWD/Intermotor.
145K, hoping its not that dreaded injector issue that seems to come up on the forums.
01-26-2015, 06:50 AM
#9
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Central AR
Posts: 3,041
Tnx for reply.
Haven't noticed any white smoke, I held my hand over the exhaust and din't smell any gas either. I probably should check the spark plugs, they might bee too far gone if they have been getting soaked with fuel, despite them being only 3 years old. Cat is only 3 years old also.
Haven't noticed any white smoke, I held my hand over the exhaust and din't smell any gas either. I probably should check the spark plugs, they might bee too far gone if they have been getting soaked with fuel, despite them being only 3 years old. Cat is only 3 years old also.
If you need new plugs, you might try NGK V-power coppers. At ~$2 per plug you can't beat the value. My 4th gens love v-powers. The plugs are noted for working well with older coil packs that lack the level of spark as newer coils.
Update:
You can run a fuel pressure test with the rails in the car to determine if an injector o-ring is leaking. Here are some pictures of me running a FP test using my well worn Harbor Freight gauge with the rails out of the car to check the injectors for leaks after I replaced o-rings, caps, and screens.
Last edited by CS_AR; 01-26-2015 at 07:20 AM.
01-26-2015, 09:29 AM
#10
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Denver From Houston Lived in Boston
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+1 for BWD Intermotor FPR. I'm having good luck with the ones I run on my 4th gens. Side Note: Federal Mogul (BWD owner) is a Nissan Just-In-Time supply partner.
If you need new plugs, you might try NGK V-power coppers. At ~$2 per plug you can't beat the value. My 4th gens love v-powers. The plugs are noted for working well with older coil packs that lack the level of spark as newer coils.
Update:
You can run a fuel pressure test with the rails in the car to determine if an injector o-ring is leaking. Here are some pictures of me running a FP test using my well worn Harbor Freight gauge with the rails out of the car to check the injectors for leaks after I replaced o-rings, caps, and screens.
If you need new plugs, you might try NGK V-power coppers. At ~$2 per plug you can't beat the value. My 4th gens love v-powers. The plugs are noted for working well with older coil packs that lack the level of spark as newer coils.
Update:
You can run a fuel pressure test with the rails in the car to determine if an injector o-ring is leaking. Here are some pictures of me running a FP test using my well worn Harbor Freight gauge with the rails out of the car to check the injectors for leaks after I replaced o-rings, caps, and screens.
01-26-2015, 10:38 AM
#11
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Central AR
Posts: 3,041
Tnx for the pic with instructions. I may have to take it in for a fuel diagnostic. I'm really afraid to take off the-intake manifold, I figure if I was doing all that I should buy a whole new rail and get some junk yard injectors. Really hoping I didn't need to take it this far lol!
01-26-2015, 03:02 PM
#12
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Denver From Houston Lived in Boston
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01-26-2015, 04:58 PM
#13
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Central AR
Posts: 3,041
Have you changed your fuel filter in the past? You will be disconnecting the fuel line that supplies fuel from the fuel filter.
Here's some information on pressure testing fuel injectors. I use a fuel line pressure testing gauge that I purchased at Harbor Freight. I will be using a picture from me running the test on my Q45, but the processes is the same for the Maxima.
The idea is to use the car's fuel pump to build up pressure on the fuel rail to check for a pressure leak down condition that may occur with a leaking o-ring. To maintain pressure to test the injectors for leaks, the return and fuel supply line will need to be in a closed pressure loop. The Fuel Line Clamp pliers (or substitute) may be used to clamp the rubber hoses to close the loop under pressure.
The steps are similar to the Fuel Pressure Test Procedure in the EC section of the FSM except you will not be starting the engine.
Steps
1) Insert a fuel pressure test gauge in the line between the fuel filter and the fuel rail. Be sure to properly tighten hose clamps on the extra fuel line needed to bridge between the fuel filter and the gauge.
2) Get a helper to turn on the ignition to cause the fuel pump to build up pressure. DO NOT START THE ENGINE. As soon as the pump builds pressure, use the clamp pliers to close the hose between the gauge and the fuel filter. This will close the loop and keep pressure on the fuel rail. You should see the gauge display the maximum fuel pressure as soon as the pump is turned on. The fuel pressure regulator will help maintain pressure on the rail for the return line.
3) If there are no leaking injectors and the Fuel Pressure Regular is holding pressure, the pressure should not drop in any short amount of time. In the picture below, the rail being tested held 40 PSI of fuel pressure for over an hour -- basically to the point where I left it hooked up for an extended period of time to see what would happen.
4) If the pressure starts dropping while you watch you can bet you have a leaking injector or a failing pressure regulator. There should be between 34 and 43 PSI of pressure or more registering on the gauge when the switch is turned on.
Fuel Line Pressure Gauge
Fuel Line Clamp Pliers
Actually I use vice grips with a piece of extra hose to provide a cushion between the grips to keep from damaging the hose. If I had a set of the following Fuel line clamp pliers I would use them to close the fuel line hose loop to maintain pressure.
Here's some information on pressure testing fuel injectors. I use a fuel line pressure testing gauge that I purchased at Harbor Freight. I will be using a picture from me running the test on my Q45, but the processes is the same for the Maxima.
The idea is to use the car's fuel pump to build up pressure on the fuel rail to check for a pressure leak down condition that may occur with a leaking o-ring. To maintain pressure to test the injectors for leaks, the return and fuel supply line will need to be in a closed pressure loop. The Fuel Line Clamp pliers (or substitute) may be used to clamp the rubber hoses to close the loop under pressure.
The steps are similar to the Fuel Pressure Test Procedure in the EC section of the FSM except you will not be starting the engine.
Steps
1) Insert a fuel pressure test gauge in the line between the fuel filter and the fuel rail. Be sure to properly tighten hose clamps on the extra fuel line needed to bridge between the fuel filter and the gauge.
2) Get a helper to turn on the ignition to cause the fuel pump to build up pressure. DO NOT START THE ENGINE. As soon as the pump builds pressure, use the clamp pliers to close the hose between the gauge and the fuel filter. This will close the loop and keep pressure on the fuel rail. You should see the gauge display the maximum fuel pressure as soon as the pump is turned on. The fuel pressure regulator will help maintain pressure on the rail for the return line.
3) If there are no leaking injectors and the Fuel Pressure Regular is holding pressure, the pressure should not drop in any short amount of time. In the picture below, the rail being tested held 40 PSI of fuel pressure for over an hour -- basically to the point where I left it hooked up for an extended period of time to see what would happen.
4) If the pressure starts dropping while you watch you can bet you have a leaking injector or a failing pressure regulator. There should be between 34 and 43 PSI of pressure or more registering on the gauge when the switch is turned on.
Fuel Line Pressure Gauge
Fuel Line Clamp Pliers
Actually I use vice grips with a piece of extra hose to provide a cushion between the grips to keep from damaging the hose. If I had a set of the following Fuel line clamp pliers I would use them to close the fuel line hose loop to maintain pressure.
Last edited by CS_AR; 01-26-2015 at 06:20 PM.
01-27-2015, 07:49 AM
#14
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Denver From Houston Lived in Boston
Posts: 242
Have you changed your fuel filter in the past? You will be disconnecting the fuel line that supplies fuel from the fuel filter.
Here's some information on pressure testing fuel injectors. I use a fuel line pressure testing gauge that I purchased at Harbor Freight. I will be using a picture from me running the test on my Q45, but the processes is the same for the Maxima.
The idea is to use the car's fuel pump to build up pressure on the fuel rail to check for a pressure leak down condition that may occur with a leaking o-ring. To maintain pressure to test the injectors for leaks, the return and fuel supply line will need to be in a closed pressure loop. The Fuel Line Clamp pliers (or substitute) may be used to clamp the rubber hoses to close the loop under pressure.
The steps are similar to the Fuel Pressure Test Procedure in the EC section of the FSM except you will not be starting the engine.
Steps
1) Insert a fuel pressure test gauge in the line between the fuel filter and the fuel rail. Be sure to properly tighten hose clamps on the extra fuel line needed to bridge between the fuel filter and the gauge.
2) Get a helper to turn on the ignition to cause the fuel pump to build up pressure. DO NOT START THE ENGINE. As soon as the pump builds pressure, use the clamp pliers to close the hose between the gauge and the fuel filter. This will close the loop and keep pressure on the fuel rail. You should see the gauge display the maximum fuel pressure as soon as the pump is turned on. The fuel pressure regulator will help maintain pressure on the rail for the return line.
3) If there are no leaking injectors and the Fuel Pressure Regular is holding pressure, the pressure should not drop in any short amount of time. In the picture below, the rail being tested held 40 PSI of fuel pressure for over an hour -- basically to the point where I left it hooked up for an extended period of time to see what would happen.
4) If the pressure starts dropping while you watch you can bet you have a leaking injector or a failing pressure regulator. There should be between 34 and 43 PSI of pressure or more registering on the gauge when the switch is turned on.
Fuel Line Pressure Gauge
Fuel Line Clamp Pliers
Actually I use vice grips with a piece of extra hose to provide a cushion between the grips to keep from damaging the hose. If I had a set of the following Fuel line clamp pliers I would use them to close the fuel line hose loop to maintain pressure.
Here's some information on pressure testing fuel injectors. I use a fuel line pressure testing gauge that I purchased at Harbor Freight. I will be using a picture from me running the test on my Q45, but the processes is the same for the Maxima.
The idea is to use the car's fuel pump to build up pressure on the fuel rail to check for a pressure leak down condition that may occur with a leaking o-ring. To maintain pressure to test the injectors for leaks, the return and fuel supply line will need to be in a closed pressure loop. The Fuel Line Clamp pliers (or substitute) may be used to clamp the rubber hoses to close the loop under pressure.
The steps are similar to the Fuel Pressure Test Procedure in the EC section of the FSM except you will not be starting the engine.
Steps
1) Insert a fuel pressure test gauge in the line between the fuel filter and the fuel rail. Be sure to properly tighten hose clamps on the extra fuel line needed to bridge between the fuel filter and the gauge.
2) Get a helper to turn on the ignition to cause the fuel pump to build up pressure. DO NOT START THE ENGINE. As soon as the pump builds pressure, use the clamp pliers to close the hose between the gauge and the fuel filter. This will close the loop and keep pressure on the fuel rail. You should see the gauge display the maximum fuel pressure as soon as the pump is turned on. The fuel pressure regulator will help maintain pressure on the rail for the return line.
3) If there are no leaking injectors and the Fuel Pressure Regular is holding pressure, the pressure should not drop in any short amount of time. In the picture below, the rail being tested held 40 PSI of fuel pressure for over an hour -- basically to the point where I left it hooked up for an extended period of time to see what would happen.
4) If the pressure starts dropping while you watch you can bet you have a leaking injector or a failing pressure regulator. There should be between 34 and 43 PSI of pressure or more registering on the gauge when the switch is turned on.
Fuel Line Pressure Gauge
Fuel Line Clamp Pliers
Actually I use vice grips with a piece of extra hose to provide a cushion between the grips to keep from damaging the hose. If I had a set of the following Fuel line clamp pliers I would use them to close the fuel line hose loop to maintain pressure.
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