Striker2237

So I got a free 1995 maxima GLE and was going to mess with it a little but I'm not sure how these engines are made, forged? partial forged? iron block? heads? main cap strength? I want to setup and adaptor for it to use a NOS bottle for laughs, a tad more speed and to have a big red button in plain view. (plus I want to learn about it as I have never used it before) Wet shot 50 is the plan but I want to make sure that the engine can take it before doing anything.

theWalkinator

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_VQ_engine
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5y...muRJuKw/videos

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Also take a look at the Maxima.org Advanced Performance section that has a forum on Nitrous.

https://maxima.org/forums/advanced-performance-39/

Striker2237

Thanks a lot for the pointers guys! I'll reed all this and post back latter!

Striker2237

So from what I have gathered from this and other sites this a well engineered revy engine with quite the modern design that should be able to take a 50 with little problems. Its great to know this thing has such a good reputation!

theWalkinator

Nissan's VQ engine has won Ward's 10 best engine for 14 straight years, and variations of this design have been used in many Nissan vehicle lineups and are still being used today, no direct fuel injection crap.

Striker2237

What's wrong with direct injection? I thought thats what most manufacturers were switching to because its more accurate than SMPI?

Quickywd01

iTrader: (16)

50 isn't enough.

theWalkinator

Carbon buildup.

JoshG

carbon buildup, hence EGR getting clogged lol

CS_AR

Has you car been Grandma/Grandpa driven before you got it? I bought a motor with 73,000 miles last year that was full of carbon. You may want to consider a good egr cleaning as your first project.

Sent from my Z998 using Maxima

JoshG

well mine was a white pearl black leather fully loaded pretty much in new condition, low miles, looked like an old person would drive it. and mine just got the EGR code after reaching around 133.5k miles when i got it at 125k 2 years ago.

so im pretty sure it was grandma driven or so. going to have the EGR/knock sensor done in a while by a mechanic charging me $360 for both., just about to do a big project to the car all at once. Do those cheap-o ebay knock sensors work well? i accidentally dropped mine probably 2 feet from ground but i don't know if its good now since i only dropped it once..how long do those ebays last?

besides what are the after effects and how does the car run after EGR is cleaned? since my knock sensor is bad and EGR on top of that, it does run alright.. I can rev to 4.5k sometimes from a complete stop. but if i were to do those 2, im sure this car would run like new again, dont seem to find anything else that would cause my car to run ok besides those 2 bringing down the performance.

theWalkinator

Do you experience rough idle, lost power, hesitation or stall when comes to stop? When I got my EGR code, the car hesitated pretty badly at stop sign/traffic lights and even stalled sometimes, gas mileage was down a lot too.

Striker2237

Yea its my grandparents old car, and its has a blown plenum or vacuum leak causing it to idle rough. After you guys mentioned the carbon thing I think it might be that instead of what their deal said was wrong. Shouldn't be a problem whatever it is.....

JoshG

no rough idle, maybe lost power at sometimes.. hesitation for sure sometimes, no stalls at all. and I kinda noticed the gas mileage went down a tad bit. somtimes the RPM will stay at 1.5k for 25-30 seconds even when pressing down on the gas pedal as if something was clogged which is the EGR..

pretty much its reduced performance at sometimes, but other than that it runs really well.

Striker2237

Mine pulls hard at any rpm above idle, idles at 350........vacuum leak is what this screams to me honestly.

Striker2237

http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/70028/10002/-1 I'm thinking of using this kit as its easy to install and should be safe enough on a stock motor, thoughts?