Turbobink

iTrader: (2)

As of this morning my '99 SEL is exhibiting the apparently not uncommon hard start, rough idle and fuel odor issue.

I did a bit of reading here and on the web and although I have not yet pulled codes, it appears that possible culprits could be a failing or dirty CSPS or failing injector(s).

I read a couple of threads here related to the failed injectors and found that the failure relates to the cracking/breaking of the pintle caps or the failure of the "O" ring(s).

I get the "O" ring failure ... they fail.

But as far as the pintle caps go, these things just also spontaneously self destruct with time and use or is there typically some other issue that results in their failure?

asand1

iTrader: (1)

They are plastic and get brittle with age. Eventually they will break. No other reason than that.

Sent from my XT1060 using Maxima

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Pull your spark plugs and see if one (or more) is black. That would indicate a cylinder that is getting too much fuel.

CS_AR

The next time I have the I30's plenum off I aim to refresh the o-rings and caps. It has approximately 275,000 miles and I'm sure it will just be a matter of time before a leak develops -- if it hasn't already started leaking.. I want to do the refurb without removing the rails just to see how it goes.
It runs great right now. I want to keep it that way.

There are videos from the Z32 and S13/14 side about injector removal tips that I used when I did the 99 Max last year.

Sent from my Z998 using Maxima

Turbobink

iTrader: (2)

Happen to have a link or two handy?

CS_AR

Here you go..

This guy has the right idea for cracking the injector screws loose.
I use a similar process with vice grips.
Just grab screw head with the vice grips and crack it loose.
Also he uses air to blow any dust or dirt away from the rail.
I spray penetrating oil around the injector body top so it soaks into the upper o-ring and lubricates it for removal. After the penetrating oil soaks in around the upper o-ring, I give the injector a turn using the vice grips to brake it free.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MhXwr1diD80

I use this guy's approach for popping the injector out of the rail with the exception of using some needle nose vice grips to provide extra space on the rail to lift up the injector. Then I use a straight edge screwdriver that I rest on the needle nose part lift the injector out of the rail. I use this on both sides of the injector to lift both sides at once. If you have a helper, you could use the approach in the video and lift both sides at once.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LcLVoURrMD8

This guy an example of using penetrating lube to remove injectors..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ayWC38156dM

This guy has a decent video about installing the injectors o-rings. I tighten each side of the injector with half turns to keep the pressure balanced to keep from causing an o-ring to be pinched by too much pressure being applied to one side.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y__wbyvcNN0