Turbobink

iTrader: (2)

Can you guys check me on these as being correct?

http://www.mrinjectorparts.com/store..._Item_SF2.html

http://injector-rehab.com/shop/Nissa...-Feed-Kit.html

CS_AR

I bought the CSKJE26 kit in the link below.. Once I had the injectors out and looked over the screens I realized I didn't need to disturb the screens. Since I already bought the screens I replaced them anyway -- more to see if I could do it. Ok so I did it.. I doubt that I will replace screens next time. At the price, it doesn't hurt to get the screens and have them in reserve in the event you find a bad one.. I had to use a PVC pipe cutter to slice the screen housing at an angle to remove it..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Injecto...ef5034&vxp=mtr

Turbobink

iTrader: (2)

Once I've spent the time and effort to get the injectors out I can't imagine that I won't just go ahead and replace everything.

Also ... I spent some time this morning reading the FSM.

With all due respect to the vice-grip/screw driver pry method, the FSM overviews the removal of the whole fuel tube assembly and the popping of the injectors out from the underside once the fuel tube assembly is removed.

I think I'll go about it that way rather than risk injector damage and having to conjure my encyclopedia of expletives.

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

Let us know if replacing the o-rings and such fixes your issue. There's still the possibility that the injector is partially clogged and you'll still have the same issue, I would think.

As for removal of the injectors, if the FSM calls for pushing them out the bottom, then why do you suppose there is are two little cavities at the top of the injector? They're begging for little screwdrivers to go in there. With a little leverage, and a squirt of wd-40, the injectors pop out no problem.

The only reason I can see to follow the FSM is to ensure the brittle pintle cap doesn't pop off when removing from the top. This has happened to me twice, but luckily I was able to retrieve it with ease.

CS_AR

Yup - a DIY refurbish assumes you are working/starting with leaking but otherwise healthy injectors..

JvG

I sent my injectors to Injector RX in Houston. They cleaned the injectors to improve the spray pattern and installed the new parts. The bill for all six came to 120 bucks or so. The car runs better than before.

Considering all the time it takes to remove the UIM you might as well have the injectors rebuilt if you are in there any way.

By the way: if you slide two L-shaped allen wrenches into the holes in the sides if the injectors they can be levered out easily.

Turbobink

iTrader: (2)

Appreciate the points, perspectives and opinions men ... all have been heard.

Perhaps a phased approach is the best route: Go with the DIY method first and if I start to destroy things take the advice of the FSM.

I'm now considering just having all the injectors redone now too since, as was mentioned, all that disassembly work will have been done ... OMG the decisions.

I've read that this symptom can also be the result of a fouled or failed crankshaft position sensor, so I'm needing to check and clean those first.

But then that'd likely be too easy.

CS_AR

It may be that easy after all.. How many miles do you have on it thus far?

Do you smell any fuel in the engine oil?

What I don't understand is why the injectors on the Maxima started leaking and were causing problems at approximately 165,000 miles when the I30 is still going strong at 275,000. Both are 99 models. The only difference I can factor in is the Maxima had been run hot several times by the previous owner. The I30 was driven mostly on Interstate 30 to run up the high mileage where the Maxima was a suburbanite. Rubber/plastic part life may be determined by the number of heat up and cool down cycles over a given period of time. That one is an unsolved mystery to me.

Turbobink

iTrader: (2)

Changed out the front crank sensor, cam sensor and coolant temp sensor ... No joy.

Looks like it's an injector after all.

Based on my having been elbows deep in this crap this weekend it "appears" as though the front bank injectors can be removed with very little collateral dis-assembly.

Am I correct?

CS_AR

I've seen the rear crank sensor pick up metal fragments from starter gear wear and the electrical contacts had some corrosion. The front sensor picks up oil that keeps the contacts from corroding. I would clean the rear sensor for kicks..

Correct.. The front bank is a great place to start. You might get lucky.. Ya never know..

Hey - Do you have a fuel pressure gauge?

Turbobink

iTrader: (2)

Will do on the rear crank sensor.

Negatory on the FP gauge.

To be honest, if it's not the rear crank sensor, it's gotta be a leaking injector.

This thing is totally loading up at least one cylinder to the point it's puking raw fuel into and out of the exhaust.

I changed the plugs out yesterday as well.

I don't see a whole lot wrong with these other than they've been in there too long. # 2 might be a tad black ... if turns out to truly be an injector failure, I'm really hoping that's the one ... right up front.

CS_AR

I'm never that lucky.

I had #2 and #5 leaking on my 99 SE 5MT. It had gone unnoticed for a while and roasted and clogged both cats. I had paid over $700 for the dealer to tell me I needed a new engine. The clogged cat problem was so bad the car would not start. I had the car towed from the dealer to my driveway where I pulled the upper O2 sensors so the engine could breathe. Once it could breathe, it started up and continued to start and run without issue. I later pulled the injector rails looking for a leaking injector and found the following injectors in positions #2 and #5. I'm sure the o-rings were leaking also.

Last year the Wizard had a couple of rounds of bad injectors on two of his 4th gens. I learned all about Nissan injectors on my Q45 a few years ago before I revisited them on the Maxima last spring.