3.5 swap problem
02-02-2015, 11:33 AM
#1
3.5 swap problem
For those who have done the swap it would great for some help.
Ok I did 3.5 with the 3.0 timing covers.
I checked the timing 40 times even compared to about 6 diff pics just to confirm plus it's alittle hard to mix up the timing marks. Seeing how the new chain was painted with alignment marks. I was more concerned with the cam adapters making sure they where right. Witch I looked at the intake and exhaust cams for cylinder 1 and they both faced up like they should. I also used the iacv adapter(didn't fit cause there was a cap on it witch I took off and fit perfectly witch I assumed everyone done that compared to pics) I have zero codes getting thrown!
Problem I'm having is the idle jumping up and down. It don't do it all the time only here and there I get it to not jump up and down but then it starts again. From working on cars I no that is caused from an evap leak but I can't find one. And it feels like it's miss firing but it's not throwing a code for a mis fire and I have unplugged ever coil and nothin changes when I unplug them one by one.
Anddd last thing is sounds like a popping noise from the intake. But only randomly it dose it not all the time just when I idle jumps.
And I using the 3.5 tb any leads would be great thanks I'm so excited to drive it!
Ok I did 3.5 with the 3.0 timing covers.
I checked the timing 40 times even compared to about 6 diff pics just to confirm plus it's alittle hard to mix up the timing marks. Seeing how the new chain was painted with alignment marks. I was more concerned with the cam adapters making sure they where right. Witch I looked at the intake and exhaust cams for cylinder 1 and they both faced up like they should. I also used the iacv adapter(didn't fit cause there was a cap on it witch I took off and fit perfectly witch I assumed everyone done that compared to pics) I have zero codes getting thrown!
Problem I'm having is the idle jumping up and down. It don't do it all the time only here and there I get it to not jump up and down but then it starts again. From working on cars I no that is caused from an evap leak but I can't find one. And it feels like it's miss firing but it's not throwing a code for a mis fire and I have unplugged ever coil and nothin changes when I unplug them one by one.
Anddd last thing is sounds like a popping noise from the intake. But only randomly it dose it not all the time just when I idle jumps.
And I using the 3.5 tb any leads would be great thanks I'm so excited to drive it!
02-09-2015, 06:28 PM
#4
ok I fixed the idle that was jumping around the butter fly in the tb wasn't closing all the way. I fixed it. but my car is still making a noise witch I have a video off and its also hesitant at light throttle.
and one more question is are the 3.0 and the 3.5 crank pullly diff? as in like igniton marks> because I have the 3.5 crank pully on it. not thinking when I did the swap to check them. and its been snowing so haven't had time just thought I would ask.
and one more question is are the 3.0 and the 3.5 crank pullly diff? as in like igniton marks> because I have the 3.5 crank pully on it. not thinking when I did the swap to check them. and its been snowing so haven't had time just thought I would ask.
02-09-2015, 06:32 PM
#5
http://s44.photobucket.com/user/p0tt...ggjrf.mp4.html
idk how to post the video on here but that's the link. its makin like a back fire noise. witch I would say the timing is off. but I set it dead on and checked it like 8 times like I said. I need help guys I wanna drive it all ready
idk how to post the video on here but that's the link. its makin like a back fire noise. witch I would say the timing is off. but I set it dead on and checked it like 8 times like I said. I need help guys I wanna drive it all ready
02-11-2015, 02:45 AM
#9
Yes I have all 3.0 sensors. I have the egr , boost/map hooked up. Il check tonight if the map is blocked off or not and all the other sensors in that little cluster f*ck The egr sesnors I blocked off with vacuum caps but the wires are hooked up. I have zero codes stored. The car hAsnt left my driveway yet! So it don't have time to moniter much. I don't wanna drive it with it doing what it's doing. I didn't have time lastnight to pull the 3.5 crabk pully(the ones with the belts) to replace it with 3.0 pully but I did look at them (wile the 3.5 pully was still on the car and looks like it's the same. But I'm going to put them next to eachother and see. Hope that's the problem!
02-14-2015, 02:44 PM
#13
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 25
Sounds like the pulley should be your issue, since it's got the timing marks on it. Don't mean to thread jack, but where did you get your cam spacers? Can you point me in the right direction? Your thread is the only current swap thread I've been able to find, and I already tried contacting Stephen Max, Tillys99, and tavarish. Hope the pulley is all you need to do, I'll remember that once I get my swap done!
02-15-2015, 03:11 PM
#14
I got my cam adapters from Stephen mex about a year it so ago. I bought them and the swap got pushed off. I was gonna measure and copy them to make my own but never got aparound to doing it. Where you located?
And I pulled both pulleys off and they looked pretty much the same. But when I lined up the timning marks they do look different. It's not making the noise anymore but it still dose the hesitation when I give it little throttle. It's snowed the entire weekend here after iswapped the pulleys. So I haven't had time to look at anything else. Tomorrow after work I'm gonna do more investigation on the problem.
Only thing I could think it might be is my tb sensor. I gotta make a new bracket
And I pulled both pulleys off and they looked pretty much the same. But when I lined up the timning marks they do look different. It's not making the noise anymore but it still dose the hesitation when I give it little throttle. It's snowed the entire weekend here after iswapped the pulleys. So I haven't had time to look at anything else. Tomorrow after work I'm gonna do more investigation on the problem.
Only thing I could think it might be is my tb sensor. I gotta make a new bracket
02-17-2015, 07:44 PM
#16
It still hesitates at light throttle. Still haven't drove it cause I got 8 inches of snow last night but I did make the bracket for the tb postion sensor. The only thing I haven't checked yet is the if it's set right. For example I no in my integra when it's fully closed it reads 0.74 v and when fully open it reads 4.50 v. So I have to fine out what our maximas read when closed and so I can set it. Cause right now I have it where it just touches the sensor when closed.
And last thing is I can't get the fuel pressure to go above 40. I got it teed off like everyone else has. I didn't modify the fuel rail I just put a tee in the fuel line going to the fuel rail and from one leg of the t goes to fuel pressure reg. and then to the return line. I have the pressure turned all the way up and all the way closed and fuel pressure don't move past 40 goes down alittle but barly. And I tryed it on 2 diff fpr so far. I haven't done much searching around yet. Just got to that point cause of work and snow
And last thing is I can't get the fuel pressure to go above 40. I got it teed off like everyone else has. I didn't modify the fuel rail I just put a tee in the fuel line going to the fuel rail and from one leg of the t goes to fuel pressure reg. and then to the return line. I have the pressure turned all the way up and all the way closed and fuel pressure don't move past 40 goes down alittle but barly. And I tryed it on 2 diff fpr so far. I haven't done much searching around yet. Just got to that point cause of work and snow
02-20-2015, 05:21 PM
#17
Now im getting fusterated and it's making look like
I'm an idiot. I got the car running but it's running lean. My fuel pressure isn't going above 40 psi. I adjust it alll the way up and allll the way down and it don't go above or below 40. I even trhed to diff fuel pressure regulators. And everything worked fine on the car before I pulled the motor. I would beat the hell outa the car so fuel pump must work fine. Idk what the f is the problem and to just try a fuel pump it's 250$ and needs to be ordered! I'm getting annoyed cause I wanna drive the f'in thing
I'm an idiot. I got the car running but it's running lean. My fuel pressure isn't going above 40 psi. I adjust it alll the way up and allll the way down and it don't go above or below 40. I even trhed to diff fuel pressure regulators. And everything worked fine on the car before I pulled the motor. I would beat the hell outa the car so fuel pump must work fine. Idk what the f is the problem and to just try a fuel pump it's 250$ and needs to be ordered! I'm getting annoyed cause I wanna drive the f'in thing
02-21-2015, 10:53 AM
#20
http://lyberty.com/car/Maxima_A32_do...NTB99-053b.pdf
so 0.012 and 0.016"
so 0.012 and 0.016"
02-21-2015, 11:07 AM
#21
I had trouble getting over 40psi as well.
I swapped my pump out with a $70 walbro and that solved it.
Pump had no issues with the 3.0 that I noticed, but I didn't like the readings.
I have a used aeromotive fpr, so I rebuilt that first thinking that it may have just been the part; that's all the troubleshooting I did before deciding to swap out the pump.
I swapped my pump out with a $70 walbro and that solved it.
Pump had no issues with the 3.0 that I noticed, but I didn't like the readings.
I have a used aeromotive fpr, so I rebuilt that first thinking that it may have just been the part; that's all the troubleshooting I did before deciding to swap out the pump.
03-02-2015, 06:20 PM
#22
I changed the pump got the file pressure to rise but it didn't go that high it got to 60 and now won't go past 50 ish. And at idle my af is at 17.5 not good. And now my front 02 is throwing a code. Idk if it's throwing the code as it's running to lean or if it's a bad sensor I'll check that this week when I can just thought I'd share
03-11-2015, 05:05 AM
#24
It's been a wile but yes I did the tp adjustment. At idel I had it at 14.7 then it jumped to 17.6 and bounces from there to 16.3. But only at idle. When I drive it it stays at 14.7 unless I jump on it then goes to 11.5. I have my fuel pressure all the way up and isn't going passed 55ish. I feel like something wrong there. Other then that it drives ok.
03-11-2015, 09:45 AM
#25
It's been a wile but yes I did the tp adjustment. At idel I had it at 14.7 then it jumped to 17.6 and bounces from there to 16.3. But only at idle. When I drive it it stays at 14.7 unless I jump on it then goes to 11.5. I have my fuel pressure all the way up and isn't going passed 55ish. I feel like something wrong there. Other then that it drives ok.
04-18-2015, 10:46 AM
#26
Ight guys I'm beyond pissed off. I haven't touched the car in a month. Working to much and about 2 hours away so it sat but I would try to start it here and there and all it would do is crank that's it. But won't start. It just cranks cranks and cranks. It puts like it wants to start but it don't.
Throwing a few codes
P0100 mass or volume air flow a circuit
P0150 02 bank 1 sensor 1
P0130 02 bank 1 sensor 1
P1400 egr solenoid
P1105 manifold absolute pressure bar switch
When I unplug the 02 it still just cranks idk what the hell it is
Throwing a few codes
P0100 mass or volume air flow a circuit
P0150 02 bank 1 sensor 1
P0130 02 bank 1 sensor 1
P1400 egr solenoid
P1105 manifold absolute pressure bar switch
When I unplug the 02 it still just cranks idk what the hell it is
04-18-2015, 11:17 AM
#27
Focus on the MAF and MAP codes first.
Check all wiring for breaks near those sensors.
As far as cranking and no start, I would guess it's not getting a CPS signal, but that should throw a code..
Check all wiring for breaks near those sensors.
As far as cranking and no start, I would guess it's not getting a CPS signal, but that should throw a code..
04-18-2015, 09:06 PM
#29
Let's start off and say I didn't have any problems before I did the swap. But Im getting a mass sensor tomorrow morning from my buddy's Max and trying thatS and the connextors all look good I traced them all down. Dose anyone have a vacuum digram for the map sensor!? So I can reroute the lines to make sure they are working Probly. And I'm using the 3.0 litter oil pan. The oil pans are diff from auto to manul but also the crabk sensor sits out to far in the 3.5
04-19-2015, 12:44 AM
#31
OMG THIS!!! I remember looking at the vacuum diagrams for my 99 maxima when I did my 3.5 swap and being a California Emmissions model (more 'stuff') it was waaay too confusing. Even my neighbor came over to see what I was doing and we were both looking at the FSM diagram like WTF...
Last edited by deloa84; 04-19-2015 at 01:03 AM.
04-23-2015, 02:40 AM
#33
I got the car to start no problem. I had to re route one vacuum line. And it started no problem idles at 14.7 and stays there. Only problem im
Having and idk of it's calmin for 3.5 swappers. But when I'm any but of throttle little bit all the way to full throttle my air fuel is 10.0 witch is rich. Shouldn't be that rich. Any input and it lakes power from 3 1/2 rpms to like 5rpms and then opens up. Normal!? Cause feels a lot slower then the 3.0
Having and idk of it's calmin for 3.5 swappers. But when I'm any but of throttle little bit all the way to full throttle my air fuel is 10.0 witch is rich. Shouldn't be that rich. Any input and it lakes power from 3 1/2 rpms to like 5rpms and then opens up. Normal!? Cause feels a lot slower then the 3.0
04-23-2015, 12:57 PM
#35
I got the car to start no problem. I had to re route one vacuum line. And it started no problem idles at 14.7 and stays there. Only problem im
Having and idk of it's calmin for 3.5 swappers. But when I'm any but of throttle little bit all the way to full throttle my air fuel is 10.0 witch is rich. Shouldn't be that rich. Any input and it lakes power from 3 1/2 rpms to like 5rpms and then opens up. Normal!? Cause feels a lot slower then the 3.0
Having and idk of it's calmin for 3.5 swappers. But when I'm any but of throttle little bit all the way to full throttle my air fuel is 10.0 witch is rich. Shouldn't be that rich. Any input and it lakes power from 3 1/2 rpms to like 5rpms and then opens up. Normal!? Cause feels a lot slower then the 3.0
Heres the power curve of my 3.5 swap on the stock ecu:
Finally got a chance to dyno the swap today. I decided to spring the extra $10 for an AFR reading since my EU is disconnected. Grand total: $30 for two pulls.
Same shop/dyno I used for my previous pulls with the 3.0.
Minor changes that might affect readings:
~New tires 245/50R16.
~Finally had the car aligned after the swap.
Current setup:
+02 VQ35 w/3.0 timing, DE-K Injectors & FPR, return fuel setup
+Stock 5th gen intake w/ bomz cone filter
+PFTB
+NWP BOP
+NWP 5pc spacers
+Altima headers w/ 3" y pipe back
VQ30 Spark Plugs
Fuel and timing are bone stock, no adjustments made.
236.96whp/221.51wtq
Same shop/dyno I used for my previous pulls with the 3.0.
Minor changes that might affect readings:
~New tires 245/50R16.
~Finally had the car aligned after the swap.
Current setup:
+02 VQ35 w/3.0 timing, DE-K Injectors & FPR, return fuel setup
+Stock 5th gen intake w/ bomz cone filter
+PFTB
+NWP BOP
+NWP 5pc spacers
+Altima headers w/ 3" y pipe back
VQ30 Spark Plugs
Fuel and timing are bone stock, no adjustments made.
236.96whp/221.51wtq
04-23-2015, 07:18 PM
#36
What ecu are you using!? Aftermarket so you can tune!? If I get an aftermarket one I would really love to boost my car. I have an integra boosted on 14psi and its funnnnn. I can only
Imaging 3.5 boosted on 10-12 psi would be like I read people push a lot more cause the stoxk internals can hold it. I'll read more if I boost but what ecu you using!? I would like do tune it if it isn't an arm and a leg
Imaging 3.5 boosted on 10-12 psi would be like I read people push a lot more cause the stoxk internals can hold it. I'll read more if I boost but what ecu you using!? I would like do tune it if it isn't an arm and a leg
04-27-2015, 02:23 PM
#38
What ecu are you using!? Aftermarket so you can tune!? If I get an aftermarket one I would really love to boost my car. I have an integra boosted on 14psi and its funnnnn. I can only
Imaging 3.5 boosted on 10-12 psi would be like I read people push a lot more cause the stoxk internals can hold it. I'll read more if I boost but what ecu you using!? I would like do tune it if it isn't an arm and a leg
Imaging 3.5 boosted on 10-12 psi would be like I read people push a lot more cause the stoxk internals can hold it. I'll read more if I boost but what ecu you using!? I would like do tune it if it isn't an arm and a leg
I had Emanage and got rid of it. Had a bad experience with it and a lot of tuners won't even touch it because they say it's to unstable. Eventually there won't even be any support for Emanage.
You really wanna go all out then do a full 3.5 swap with Haltech.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post