Outer CV boot torn.
#2
Has the axle started clicking yet? If not, you could just seal it up and fill it with grease. Depending on how soon after the initial break you had found the tear, you could be buying a couple of months to even years more axle life before failure.
Also, that Pennzoil Synchromesh doesn't seem to specify whether its GL-4 or not.
Also, that Pennzoil Synchromesh doesn't seem to specify whether its GL-4 or not.
Last edited by dwapenyi; 02-20-2015 at 01:19 AM.
#3
No clicking yet, I caught it early. I do plan on just replacing the boot. The axle is less than 2 years old.
Gl4 only applies to gear oil and is a spec regarding yellow metal compatibility. As this is not really gear oil, it does not apply. PSM is however yellow metal safe.
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Gl4 only applies to gear oil and is a spec regarding yellow metal compatibility. As this is not really gear oil, it does not apply. PSM is however yellow metal safe.
Sent from my XT1060 using Maxima
Last edited by asand1; 02-20-2015 at 01:26 AM.
#4
I did that 2 month ago, replaced drive side CV boot, the boot kit I got from Advance Auto comes with a snap ring and a pack of grease, to separate CV joint requires some convincing, I just hold the shaft down with me left hand, and slammed the joint with a 3 pound hammer, give it few good slams and you should be able to knock it out, cleaned the old grease in the bowl, I used a can of brake cleaner, put everything back, works fine, I do have to remove the shaft from the transmission though.
#10
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#11
#13
I re-used fairly new ATF after cleaning it with a paint strainer a few years ago and its still pink. The AT has been shifting fine. Happened after modifying the VB, inserting new shift soleniods, and replacing 10 quarts of ATF. I bent the AT pan by carelessy over torquing a few of the 21 bolts. After installing a new pan I added that cleanly strained ATF. DIdn't want to spend a bundle on Amsoil synthetic ATF again.
Last edited by jholley; 02-20-2015 at 03:31 PM.
#14
^^^ I know a number of local shops that'll offer to retain your recovered fluid (based on the recency of it's change out of course), including my local Ford dealership, and encourage it's reuse.
As long as you're not introducing grit or other contaminants, I honestly think you're good to go.
As long as you're not introducing grit or other contaminants, I honestly think you're good to go.
#15
#18
#21
#22
I placed my order for this expecting junk.
And got this
Was surprised and very happy to see an Empi boot, they don't get much better than that.
I pulled the joint out of the hub and attempted to remove the joint in-car, but I just could not get a good enough swing. After draining the MTF into a clean pan I pulled the shaft and replaced the boot.
The old boot has a small puncture wound that I think is from my strut work awhile back.
New boot installed.
And got this
Was surprised and very happy to see an Empi boot, they don't get much better than that.
I pulled the joint out of the hub and attempted to remove the joint in-car, but I just could not get a good enough swing. After draining the MTF into a clean pan I pulled the shaft and replaced the boot.
The old boot has a small puncture wound that I think is from my strut work awhile back.
New boot installed.
Last edited by asand1; 03-04-2015 at 10:42 PM.
#28
I have a 150 ft-lb torque wrench also but haven't had any luck finding an appropriate torque multiplier bar anywhere/online. Any recommendations? Also, could I just torque the nut to 150 ft-lb with my wrench, then add 1/4-1/2 turn or so with a breaker bar/pipe to get to near the 174 ft-lb minimum?
#32
#33
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Last edited by asand1; 03-06-2015 at 04:16 PM.
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