Front axle boot ripped
02-22-2015, 03:34 PM
#1
Max40
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 181
Front axle boot ripped
I just checked under my car this weekend and I saw my front driver side axle boot was ripped. I also noticed a dark residue on my front driver side alloy wheel. Did not feel like brake dust. I am going to change the axle boot next week. Replacing the drive axle also.I had the car up on a lift two weeks ago with my mechanic and he nor I did not notice any tear in the boot axle. Are there any signs I should keep an eye out for until I am able to change it?
02-22-2015, 03:44 PM
#3
The new axle will come with new boots. If its not making the notorious clicking yet, you have nothing to worry about yet. Running on a bad axle over a year could cause it to break in a bad way, separating a ball joint.
Plus one on rebooting your current axle if its still in good shape. I'm doing this a soon as mine comes in the mail.
A rebooted OEM axle will always be better than after market, although I don't imagine many 17yo cars still have OEM.
Sent from my XT1060 using Maxima
Plus one on rebooting your current axle if its still in good shape. I'm doing this a soon as mine comes in the mail.
A rebooted OEM axle will always be better than after market, although I don't imagine many 17yo cars still have OEM.
Sent from my XT1060 using Maxima
Last edited by asand1; 02-22-2015 at 03:47 PM.
02-22-2015, 08:05 PM
#4
Max40
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 181
Thanks for the information. My 1995 Maxima SE was actually built in April 1994 so it is approaching 21 years. I have been the only owner. I do agree the OEM parts are getting harder and harder to find.
02-22-2015, 09:23 PM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Philly Suburb
Posts: 393
Agree with above, if not making clicking noise then your CV joint is still fine but do it as soon as possible, I just did mine last month, here are the steps:
1. Remove axle nut, I believe it is 36mm nut, if you don't have impact wrench, use a breaker bar with a pipe extension, loosen it while wheel is on the ground but do not take it out.
2. Remove the wheel, put the front of the car on jack stands and chuck the rear wheels, remove the wheel and put wheel under the rock panel, safety is the most important, then remove the axle nut.
3. Remove 2 wheel knuckle/spindle mounting bolts on strut, at this point you should be able to bend wheel knuckle down and slide axle out, put the axle nut back and give it few taps with a hammer to loosen it if it won't budge, use a pry bar to leverage the LCA if needed, I do not need to remove LCA ball joint to achieve this.
4. Remove axle, go under the car, use a pry bar to pop out inner axle spindle out from transmission, put a drain pan under in case trans fluid leaks out.
5. Separate CV joint from shaft, cut the 2 clamps and the torn boot with a utility knife, hold the shaft down with one hand and another hand with a 3 pound hammer and give it a good knock on the flat side of the CV joint bowl, it may require some convincing but you should be able to knock the joint out with few tries.
6. Clean the old grease, remove the old grease as much as you can with your finger, then use a can or 2 of brake fluid to thoroughly clean the joint.
7. Re-grease, the CV boot kit comes with a pack of grease and a snap ring, try to pack 3/4 of pack of new grease into the CV joint bowl.
8. Re-boot, remove the old snap ring from the axle, slide the boot into the axle, put new snap ring on, dab some grease on the new snap ring so it stays in position, then insert the spindle into the CV joint bowl, the easiest way of doing this is holding the axle straight 3" above the ground and align the CV joint bowl on top of the spindle, slide into it then drop the axle to the ground, you should hear a click which means the spindle got inserted correct position. Pack the rest of 1/4 pack of grease into the boot near the large opening, slide large opening onto the CV joint and put the clamp on both small end and large end, tighten the clamps, at this point, rebooting is done and you are ready to put axle back.
9. Re-install axle, insert the axle inner spindle into the transmission, use a hammer and give it few taps on the other end of axle, if you hear a click, then the axle is in position, reverse step 1,2,3 and then you are done. If you have trans fluid leaks, refill some.
Wheel alignment may not need after reboot but it is recommended. CV boot is cheap, less $20, I got mine from Advanced Auto. I would give this job 3.5 difficulty level, 2.5 hour of time.
1. Remove axle nut, I believe it is 36mm nut, if you don't have impact wrench, use a breaker bar with a pipe extension, loosen it while wheel is on the ground but do not take it out.
2. Remove the wheel, put the front of the car on jack stands and chuck the rear wheels, remove the wheel and put wheel under the rock panel, safety is the most important, then remove the axle nut.
3. Remove 2 wheel knuckle/spindle mounting bolts on strut, at this point you should be able to bend wheel knuckle down and slide axle out, put the axle nut back and give it few taps with a hammer to loosen it if it won't budge, use a pry bar to leverage the LCA if needed, I do not need to remove LCA ball joint to achieve this.
4. Remove axle, go under the car, use a pry bar to pop out inner axle spindle out from transmission, put a drain pan under in case trans fluid leaks out.
5. Separate CV joint from shaft, cut the 2 clamps and the torn boot with a utility knife, hold the shaft down with one hand and another hand with a 3 pound hammer and give it a good knock on the flat side of the CV joint bowl, it may require some convincing but you should be able to knock the joint out with few tries.
6. Clean the old grease, remove the old grease as much as you can with your finger, then use a can or 2 of brake fluid to thoroughly clean the joint.
7. Re-grease, the CV boot kit comes with a pack of grease and a snap ring, try to pack 3/4 of pack of new grease into the CV joint bowl.
8. Re-boot, remove the old snap ring from the axle, slide the boot into the axle, put new snap ring on, dab some grease on the new snap ring so it stays in position, then insert the spindle into the CV joint bowl, the easiest way of doing this is holding the axle straight 3" above the ground and align the CV joint bowl on top of the spindle, slide into it then drop the axle to the ground, you should hear a click which means the spindle got inserted correct position. Pack the rest of 1/4 pack of grease into the boot near the large opening, slide large opening onto the CV joint and put the clamp on both small end and large end, tighten the clamps, at this point, rebooting is done and you are ready to put axle back.
9. Re-install axle, insert the axle inner spindle into the transmission, use a hammer and give it few taps on the other end of axle, if you hear a click, then the axle is in position, reverse step 1,2,3 and then you are done. If you have trans fluid leaks, refill some.
Wheel alignment may not need after reboot but it is recommended. CV boot is cheap, less $20, I got mine from Advanced Auto. I would give this job 3.5 difficulty level, 2.5 hour of time.
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