uttadms31

Hello All,
I just had a question about brake fluid changes. I know I may get some heat for this but I've never changed my brake fluid (236k miles 1998 - bought at 80k and don't know history before then). I've never had any brake system issues (oem calipers also) and plan on replacing all rotors, pads, and brake hardware in the next month or so. Regarding my brake fluid, its level is fine, color is ok I guess (light-moderate brown, not dark brown or black) and whenever it is given that copper test at Firestone it checks out fine. My certified independent mechanic on the side who I trust and has done great work for me tells me not to change my brake fluid because at this point it could poorly affect the master cylinder, and I'm not having any bad issues at the moment other than warped rotors and aged pads. This car is mainly for a work commute of almost all highway miles. What do you guys think? Thanks.
Matt

vqmaxman

If the master cylinder goes bad that shouldn't be due to a brake fluid, that would be due to a bad seal that goes bad in the master cylinder. I would change the brake fluid because of the old fluids protection brakes down. The old fluid could damage the cylinder if you have corrosion or water when the protection brakes down wouldn't hurt get it changed.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

changing it will not damage anything, only risk you have is if you live around moisture the bleeders could be rusty and break off. for that reason i just drain and fill my master cylinder with a syringe vs doing a proper bleed

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

you guys know he should do a proper bleed and fill here. no shortcuts cause he's never done this before, if you do all the other brake work you should do a complete fluid change. viscosity is key, fluid gets worn, no proper pressure at pedal, seals in ms go bad, bleeders rust as stated.

JoshG

im in shock that you have not changed or touched the fluid since 80k miles and ur at 236k miles now, quite interesting to know that fluid can last that long.

vqmaxman

What type 3dot brake brand fluid your using.

uttadms31

I have no clue about the brand of fluid...it's been 11 years since I was at 80k, and no clue if the guy before me changed it. I have always changed oil every 3-5k miles. Also until I was at 220k miles (a year ago) I had never changed the coolant or tranny fluid, but I'm still on the OEM tranny, radiator, water pump, thermostat. Not proud of this stuff but back then I knew nothing about cars and recently this board has helped me become a DIYer and start addressing needed maintenance. My car's in great shape other than small flex pipe and resonator exhaust leaks, and a rear half moon gasket slow oil leak.

JoshG

shows that this car is a tank if OEM stuff lasts that long. and fluids as well.. coolant never changed until 220k miles? CrraazY! lol

uttadms31

Yeah the only fluid that looked bad when I changed it was the tranny fluid which was black, but that was 16k miles ago and it still shifts smooth now. I also never changed the plugs until 220k. Almost all highway miles, mostly in the Northeast. Only 2 unexpected repairs I've ever had to do aside from expected maintenance (brakes, suspension components, ect.) were a rusted radiator support 3 years ago, and a broken harmonic balancer at 140k miles.

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

you are extremely lucky you don't have a slipping trans and multiple codes for engine problems. i think it's because highway miles don't put as much strain on a trans/engine as apposed to all local driving. i have my original starter at 269,000!!! you should do, 1: fuel filter, 2. k&n air filter, 3. plugs, 4. power steering fluid, 5. radiator drain& fill, ( front 6 quarts, do again 2 weeks later ) etc., etc.

uttadms31

Yes the only codes I have are for knock sensor and rear (post-cat) O2 sensor. When I did the coolant flush last year I did the whole thing from that thread which talks about flushing it with 8-10 gallons of distilled water. Come to think my starter may have been replaced once, but I've never changed the alternator.

jholley

iTrader: (13)

I would immediately bleed out that aged brake fluid. Last summer I bled the fluid on a 97 MAX that had over 200k miles. The fluid was light brown like yours so I presume it was never changed.

The first step is to clean those 4 bleeder valves with a fine wire brush then soak them with PB Blaster. Now remove the cap and filter off the brake fluid reservoir. Suck out that old fluid with a turkey baster. Give the cap and filter a cleaning. Fill reservoir with new Dot 3 brake fluid. Now replace those bleeder valves if they're in poor condition. Their size is M10 x 1.0 thread x 35mm length. I installed Dorman 12709 speed bleeders to make the bleeding easier.

Download this manual.

http://www.boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/1998/BR.pdf

It will show you the location of those bleeder valves and also how to bleed the system.

Maxgig

iTrader: (5)

Since you don't know the fluids history I would change it to be on the safe side.

Finkle

Your not the only one. I have never once bled brake fluid for the purpose of changing it because it was old. I usually end up draining enough out after other brake work that the old stuff gets flushed out. My family car growing up hit 220k miles on original antifreeze, tranny, brake and power steering fluid. The car ran great when we sold it too.

Thats not to say that fluids don't need to be changed. I almost lost a ford truck tranny due to the previous owner not changing the fluid. Some take priorities over others.

Tip for the bleeders, use 6 point sockets to crack them open, not wrenches. If it starts to round with the socket, throw a pair of vice grips on it.

vqmaxman

Oh my how did the harmonics balancer break that's not good. That's the crankshaft pulley that will not do good for the car won't run with out the belt over the balancer.
I don't how severly it was broken but that's not good,in some cases I have seen them rattle on the car when the cars running. They start doing that.change them because they can completely break of if you abuse the car when you have a bad balancer.

CS_AR

Where is the OP located?

Has anyone had their brake lines freeze up? I had the master cylinder freeze up once in a 1973 VW.

Brake fluid is hygroscopic. It suspends water molecules that can freeze.

uttadms31

It happened almost 100k miles ago at 140k. And I wasn't good at checking things under the hood back then but I know I never abused the car and it just completely broke off one day when I was driving 20 mph. Been fine since. I've been told to look for wobbling of the pulley, and I see a tiny bit now, but not that much, so I'm not sure how much wobbling there should be for a warning sign.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

my 88 KingCab all the fluids looked original except motor oil. brake, diff, trans, etc fluid looked to never have been changed. i drove in -50c no problem

uttadms31

From 1998-2011 the car was in CT and NY, and since then its been in southern VA. We do get down below freezing in the winter, but I'm usually driving my other (much newer) car on those cold nights anyway. Speaking of longevity and highway driving, I replaced my front pads and rotors today due to warped rotors, and I still had about 4mm left on pads last changed 100k miles ago.

KP11520

Freezing doesn't affect everybody the same, but brakeline corrosion from the inside out, does!

Call around and find places that do a complete Flush and Power Bleed. If you can get it done for $100 or less from a reputable place, best money you've ever spent! (after all the other brake work is completed that is)