Samedi

Hello everyone, this is my first post, just joined actually. Had a problem the other night and my Maxima (1997 SE) has been sitting in the driveway ever since.

Symptoms: Suddenly, (On an empty tank and for about 3 miles) my brake light and battery light would light up, I've researched this and most people say it's alternator. So, I went out and got an alternator, battery, and starter (one of the pegs busted when I was taking it off to check it out). Later that day, I drove about 50 miles with no further symptoms after driving another 4 or 5 miles and filling up the gas tank. Then the battery light and brake light as well as the air bag light came on. Throttle was almost unresponsive and the engine was choking pretty bad. There was a smell, but it smelled like exhaust to me and my girlfriend said it smelled like gasoline, but it may have been the alternator. Also, the battery terminal from the wire was so corroded, the bottom half of the terminal connection had corroded off, so I might try using a penny to re-establish that connection.

I've done some research and most people said it was the alternator for SOME of the symptoms. However, the burning wasn't exactly electrical. However, I've bought a new battery (DOA at the parts store), an alternator, and a starter (because I hulk smashed the nut on the peg).

So far, starter wasn't too bad to replace, just a lot of stuff to take off to have a proper way to get to it. I also cleaned the MAF, throttle body, IACV unit, and EGR tube. Also, there was a metal tube that was disconnected from the EGR valve itself, so I hooked that back up. Lots of stuff with older cars. Plan on selling it ASAP, but it needs new tires so once I get all of this done, it'll be on the market. Please leave me your opinions about where it could be. Because I've also heard other things. Thanks!

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

First things first, make sure you have a solid and clean battery terminal connections.

Where did you get your alternator? It's possible that you got unlucky and received a new lemon alternator

Samedi

I cleaned the terminals the next day, along with the connectors. Everything was tight, like a tiger (YEEEEESH!). When I pulled into the gas station, before the car died, electrical was all over the place, including speedometer, throttle was not responding correctly, pushing down on the gas it would go in and out really bad.
New alternator is a brand I've never heard of (Remy, I think), but the guy says it has a lifetime warranty. I love in somewhat of a remote area and can't wait for Amazon to give me a happy gift, otherwise I'd go with OEM. Last one on there was certified remanufactured, and the person before me hadn't done a lick of MX to it, so I figured it's life is probably up by now.

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

Have you checked your coolant level? I've seen Maximas do strange things like you're describing when the radiator was only half full.

I'd get your new alternator checked to make sure it's not a lemon. Free service at Autozone, Pepboys etc.

What did you clean the MAF with?

Save this for last, but maybe look at the fuel pump. You did say the issue started when on an empty tank.... If you the type of person that runs the tank to empty every time, you may have killed the pump.

Turbobink

iTrader: (2)

IMO you really need to do some charging and starting system testing before you do any more diagnosing by intuition.

Test your battery charge;
Test your alternator charge;
Test continuity in you alternator charge wire;
Test for (+) side voltage drop.

Samedi

Just finished putting everything in: starter, alternator, battery and everything starts but the battery is running over 19 on my multimeter, and rising, even with everything running (i.e. headlights, fan, etc.). I'm guessing the 125 isn't the way to go and maybe my car takes the California emissions 110v alternator.

There is a USA EPA sticker on the hood, but it doesn't mention anything about CA emissions, just federal. This is the alternator I was told to get, but now it seems my battery may become toast if I try to drive it anywhere. Any ideas?

Samedi

Only other thing I can think of is that I took out the entire positive cable assembly and clipped the smaller black wire that is the only part that cannot be unbolted that runs into the fuse box cable mess area. I had to solder and cover (only had electrical tape and shrink tubes) the exposed wires. Ran out of solder pretty well into the process and just said F it and twisted the hell out of it with pliers and tucked it back into the fuse box. Hindsight being 20/20 I'm probably an idiot for doing this type of ****ty work on an electrical component, but it was my only option.

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

Are you saying you put in a second and different alternator?

Samedi

Yes, brand new, stamped Nissan. Apparently the people who put the old one in put a CA emissions (110v) alternator on and my car is a Fed emissions car, so maybe it got lucky lasting so long on that one. The alternator bench tested good. So, I have to wake up early as all hell, and I am about at the end of my motivation for this project. In a last ditch effort, I went and got a new battery for my multimeter, as I saw the little indicator, and thought, hey, maybe that might be a long shot. All in all, battery is now reading 12.3-6 and with the car on and under load it is 14.18-2, so, that should be good. I need to get a nut for the battery holder, but that's minor right? Thanks guys for the help. All in all, you were right, I should've tested before going out and assuming what was wrong. But, I did it and it worked, so I got lucky. Also, replace the batteries in your multimeters before doing any electrical work. Thanks a **** ton guys, off to bed I go!

By the way, if you have to ever dig into your engine, I would suggest cleaning all of the parts I did. It was really sluggish to start and had a pretty hard time with idle (intermittent stall, but barely noticeable, almost like a shudder). Cleaning the IACV, MAF (with MAF cleaner), throttle body, and EGR tube (this was a disgusting job and was caked all the way flush with the bottom of the MAF port to the EGR port), the shudder is now gone and she starts right up. This may be due to a new electrical starting and charging system, but hey, I did the work and it worked!

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The alternator is the same for California and Federal emission cars. I don't know if you did a typo, but the alternator is 110 amps, not volts.

A good, fully charged battery should measure in the 12.5 volt area when the car isn't running. But this isn't an iron-clad guarantee that the battery is good. Voltage is not what spins the starter motor. It is amperes. If the plates inside the battery are deteriorating, the voltage can still read correct, but when the battery has to produce current, the battery can't do it and the voltage will drop down, (maybe to zero if the battery is bad enough) and could not start the car.

Obviously your battery is good as it will start the car.

Samedi

I've been told by two different places that there are two different alternators, 110 (CA Emissions) and 125 (Fed Emissions). I don't see any visible difference between the two, but then again the difference is probably on internals. I just know what I've been told.

Anyway, my check engine light was on before I changed and cleaned everything, but it has stayed off thus far. So, that's a definite plus.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Nissan played around with the alternator amperage.
1995 - all cars 125 amps
1996 - fed cars 125 amps, cali cars 110 amps
1997 - standard alt 100 amps, optional alt 110 amps
1998 and on - 110 amps

Since Nissan decided to make the 110 amp alternator the standard, it is hard to find the 125 amp version. Even if you had a 1995 Maxima, most places will give you 110 amp alternator.

As long as you get an alternator that can provide the amps needed by the car, you will be good. A 300 amp alternator will serve you just as good as the 110 amp alternator, but you will never use all those extra amps unless you have added a lot of electrical stuff to your car.