Either I am completely insane, or completely genius...
09-27-2015, 09:40 AM
#1
Either I am completely insane, or completely genius...
!! WARNING PIC HEAVY !!
Hi max family! I. AM. BACK.
After my time in the drift world, and doing my due diligence in the american muscle scene, I have returned to my roots. I have taken delivery of a 1999 nissan maxima.
Her name is Buttercup.
I don't know the paint code on it, but its that infinity color... dark green. I haven't seen too many of these in that color so that is a huge plus for me. The last maxima I did was pebble beige... dime a dozen you know?
For the visually inclined people here, you saw the FMIC and have assumed boost.
You are correct.
I purchased the car running, but running rough. If you look at the turbo up close you can see discoloration on the turbo piping... if my spidey sense serves me right that is proof of a broken ball bearing inside the turbo hence why it is leaking oil...
So combine that with that 220k on the odometer... I have to assume there is some engine damage as well...
So why mess with an engine with an unknown number of miles?
Here is the plan:
I have the car up on a lift and I will lift her skirt tomorrow and chances are I am going to find some fairly serious problems. I have found a new turbo that will bolt right up to the set up I have.
:disclaimer: Before all you girls start crying "EGAY!!!" stfu. There are a bunch of people running high hp max's with this turbo with 0 problems. Tried and true.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CXRacing-GT30-GT3076R-Stage-III-Ball-Bearing-Turbo-Charger-T3-4-Bolt-0-63-AR-/160898933071?hash=item257652e14f&vxp=mtr
At the same time as that glorious little guy is getting bought, Im getting a low mileage mevi vq30de from japan.
http://www.enginesus.com/product/vq3...-infinity-i30/
So for about 2k I will have a new(ish) engine and a brand new turbo on that little beauty.
The tuning is from jwt, so its accessible through nistune, or I can send it back to them for a re-tune if needed.
The car has a vafc already so I should be able to compensate for the variable intake on the new engine.
I am admittedly no expert on the vq30de so this will be a learning process for me, but I'm comfortable with 90% of the shenanigans that come with a non stock boosted car.
So stay tuned for updates on engine, turbo, and some minor bodywork.
Glad to be back!
Hi max family! I. AM. BACK.
After my time in the drift world, and doing my due diligence in the american muscle scene, I have returned to my roots. I have taken delivery of a 1999 nissan maxima.
Her name is Buttercup.
I don't know the paint code on it, but its that infinity color... dark green. I haven't seen too many of these in that color so that is a huge plus for me. The last maxima I did was pebble beige... dime a dozen you know?
For the visually inclined people here, you saw the FMIC and have assumed boost.
You are correct.
I purchased the car running, but running rough. If you look at the turbo up close you can see discoloration on the turbo piping... if my spidey sense serves me right that is proof of a broken ball bearing inside the turbo hence why it is leaking oil...
So combine that with that 220k on the odometer... I have to assume there is some engine damage as well...
So why mess with an engine with an unknown number of miles?
Here is the plan:
I have the car up on a lift and I will lift her skirt tomorrow and chances are I am going to find some fairly serious problems. I have found a new turbo that will bolt right up to the set up I have.
:disclaimer: Before all you girls start crying "EGAY!!!" stfu. There are a bunch of people running high hp max's with this turbo with 0 problems. Tried and true.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CXRacing-GT30-GT3076R-Stage-III-Ball-Bearing-Turbo-Charger-T3-4-Bolt-0-63-AR-/160898933071?hash=item257652e14f&vxp=mtr
At the same time as that glorious little guy is getting bought, Im getting a low mileage mevi vq30de from japan.
http://www.enginesus.com/product/vq3...-infinity-i30/
So for about 2k I will have a new(ish) engine and a brand new turbo on that little beauty.
The tuning is from jwt, so its accessible through nistune, or I can send it back to them for a re-tune if needed.
The car has a vafc already so I should be able to compensate for the variable intake on the new engine.
I am admittedly no expert on the vq30de so this will be a learning process for me, but I'm comfortable with 90% of the shenanigans that come with a non stock boosted car.
So stay tuned for updates on engine, turbo, and some minor bodywork.
Glad to be back!
09-27-2015, 10:27 AM
#2
Well before i even start about the quality of that turbo GT30 is too small for the 3.0, running 2 of them will be great but i would go bigger you will max that in no time.
And i would much rather run a authentic journal bearing Garrett, borg warner, or turbonetics than a CXracing turbo, even a good used holset would be better and cheaper. To be honest i would not even consider a CXracing/godspeed turbo. Ballbearing turbos on the street really make no difference. Remember you get what you pay for, a Garrett's BB turbo cost +$1400 how did they make it for only $400? Just saying i have learned all this the hardway.
Something like this is what you need:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BorgWarner-Airwerks-S360-S300-83-75-88-A-R-OPEN-Scroll-Turbocharger-/301154896281?hash=item461e3b0999&vxp=mtr
It will spool fast, has the ability to make big power, and it is a quality turbo with the CXracing turbo you are rolling the dice you may get a good turbo but most of the time your getting a shat turbo. You have to send it off to a place like gpopshop or some other turbo builder to get it to work properly(around $300-400) and at that point you spent more than just buying a good turbo from the start. Do it once do it right.
Nistune is the way to go, get a nice EBC aswell. Innovate now makes a 3 in 1 boost gauge and controller plus wideband which is quite useful. Also that BOV, HKS or Tial only, why dont want to hear your fast and the furious bov b1tch.
And i would much rather run a authentic journal bearing Garrett, borg warner, or turbonetics than a CXracing turbo, even a good used holset would be better and cheaper. To be honest i would not even consider a CXracing/godspeed turbo. Ballbearing turbos on the street really make no difference. Remember you get what you pay for, a Garrett's BB turbo cost +$1400 how did they make it for only $400? Just saying i have learned all this the hardway.
Something like this is what you need:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BorgWarner-Airwerks-S360-S300-83-75-88-A-R-OPEN-Scroll-Turbocharger-/301154896281?hash=item461e3b0999&vxp=mtr
It will spool fast, has the ability to make big power, and it is a quality turbo with the CXracing turbo you are rolling the dice you may get a good turbo but most of the time your getting a shat turbo. You have to send it off to a place like gpopshop or some other turbo builder to get it to work properly(around $300-400) and at that point you spent more than just buying a good turbo from the start. Do it once do it right.
Nistune is the way to go, get a nice EBC aswell. Innovate now makes a 3 in 1 boost gauge and controller plus wideband which is quite useful. Also that BOV, HKS or Tial only, why dont want to hear your fast and the furious bov b1tch.
09-27-2015, 10:41 AM
#3
Well before i even start about the quality of that turbo GT30 is too small for the 3.0, running 2 of them will be great but i would go bigger you will max that in no time.
And i would much rather run a authentic journal bearing Garrett, borg warner, or turbonetics than a CXracing turbo, even a good used holset would be better and cheaper. To be honest i would not even consider a CXracing/godspeed turbo. Ballbearing turbos on the street really make no difference. Remember you get what you pay for, a Garaett's BB turbo cost +$1400 how did they make it for only $400? Just saying i have learned all this the hardway.
Something like this is what you need:
Borgwarner Airwerks S360 S300 83 75 88 A R Open Scroll Turbocharger | eBay
It will spool fast, has the ability to make big power, and it is a quality turbo with the CXracing turbo you are rolling the dice you may get a good turbo but most of the time your getting a shat turbo. You have to send it off to a place like gpopshop or some other turbo builder to get it to work properly(around $300-400) and at that point you spent more than just buying a good turbo from the start. Do it once do it right.
Nistune is the way to go, get a nice EBC aswell. Innovate now makes a 3 in 1 boost gauge and controller plus wideband which is quite useful. Also that BOV, HKS or Tial only, why dont want to hear your fast and the furious bov b1tch.
And i would much rather run a authentic journal bearing Garrett, borg warner, or turbonetics than a CXracing turbo, even a good used holset would be better and cheaper. To be honest i would not even consider a CXracing/godspeed turbo. Ballbearing turbos on the street really make no difference. Remember you get what you pay for, a Garaett's BB turbo cost +$1400 how did they make it for only $400? Just saying i have learned all this the hardway.
Something like this is what you need:
Borgwarner Airwerks S360 S300 83 75 88 A R Open Scroll Turbocharger | eBay
It will spool fast, has the ability to make big power, and it is a quality turbo with the CXracing turbo you are rolling the dice you may get a good turbo but most of the time your getting a shat turbo. You have to send it off to a place like gpopshop or some other turbo builder to get it to work properly(around $300-400) and at that point you spent more than just buying a good turbo from the start. Do it once do it right.
Nistune is the way to go, get a nice EBC aswell. Innovate now makes a 3 in 1 boost gauge and controller plus wideband which is quite useful. Also that BOV, HKS or Tial only, why dont want to hear your fast and the furious bov b1tch.
Borg Warner is a great idea crusher... For once you gave a sane and rational piece of advice. As far as hearing my bov... Haha you have to be close to me to hear it baby boy...
09-27-2015, 10:47 AM
#4
Its a tune away. If i didn't take time to do my interior it would be done by now, but of course, cool interior took priority to the car running.
09-27-2015, 12:15 PM
#8
what the heck happened to the big old gas muncher you had? and my mre's??? 
09-27-2015, 01:30 PM
#10
Haha!
I never said I was normal...
the gas muncher sold for a serious amount of money... and I have been sitting on it for some time... now its gonna go into this green beauty.
I'm doing this thing right. Engine will be flawless, exterior will be understated but glorious (stillen lip kit, smoke tails, etc...)
and the mre's... haha I haven't seen one in a couple years... work in a hospital now bro... no field time
10-09-2015, 05:27 AM
#13
10-09-2015, 05:32 AM
#14
after the diagnostics here are the issues I have found with the current (220k engine)
2 coil packs aren't working, one was actually sheared at the boot? I have never seen that before...
All the spark plugs were fouled, comes as no surprise given it was running on 4 cylinders.
The rear bank had a compression of 120, which is low, about 20 psi below what it needs to be. The front bank has a compression of 140. This means a timing chain job is in order on this engine.
Since I am already saving to buy a new engine there isn't much point in throwing a whole bunch of money at this one. I'm doing a tune up, changing the coil pack, and calling her done until I get the new engine. This will also let me diagnose other problems that are potentially unforeseen at the moment.
2 coil packs aren't working, one was actually sheared at the boot? I have never seen that before...
All the spark plugs were fouled, comes as no surprise given it was running on 4 cylinders.
The rear bank had a compression of 120, which is low, about 20 psi below what it needs to be. The front bank has a compression of 140. This means a timing chain job is in order on this engine.
Since I am already saving to buy a new engine there isn't much point in throwing a whole bunch of money at this one. I'm doing a tune up, changing the coil pack, and calling her done until I get the new engine. This will also let me diagnose other problems that are potentially unforeseen at the moment.
10-09-2015, 04:33 PM
#19
Either I am completely insane, or completely genius...
Gotta say tho, saw your pics today, looking very nice, your more than welcome to drop that old engine at my house for "proper disposal"
10-09-2015, 04:52 PM
#20
10-09-2015, 04:56 PM
#21
So, after replacing all the things that I thought were wrong today... I was rewarded with a car that now completely doesn't start.
You would think that replacing broken things on an engine that is running, just rough, would make it better, not murder it...
So I'm cracking the timing cover on monday, and if I see any shenanigans, I am not doing another thing to the engine that is in there now. Except maybe pee on it.
I own a maxima
You would think that replacing broken things on an engine that is running, just rough, would make it better, not murder it...
So I'm cracking the timing cover on monday, and if I see any shenanigans, I am not doing another thing to the engine that is in there now. Except maybe pee on it.
I own a maxima
10-09-2015, 06:02 PM
#24
Thanks mang. I appreciate it.
But in actuality it needs another good 4 hours of detail work and carpet cleaning. As well as new seats completely. They have cheap, CHEEEEEAAAP covers on them atm which will not suffice. After the new engine is in and purring like a kitten I am going to get some aftermarket seats for it. Also going to spring for a carbon fiber overlay kit.
10-09-2015, 06:19 PM
#26
10-09-2015, 06:42 PM
#27
10-09-2015, 06:48 PM
#28
Thanks mang. I appreciate it.
But in actuality it needs another good 4 hours of detail work and carpet cleaning. As well as new seats completely. They have cheap, CHEEEEEAAAP covers on them atm which will not suffice. After the new engine is in and purring like a kitten I am going to get some aftermarket seats for it. Also going to spring for a carbon fiber overlay kit.
steering wheel is cool, no airbag tho. sigh, the sacrifices you have to make to look cool....
11-17-2015, 05:31 PM
#29
ok, so update time.
I have detailed the max as much as it can be. The paint is in pretty decent shape for being almost 20, but it still has a lot of flaws.
Still not too shabby.
I am awaiting anxiously my new engine. Decided to be responsible and do car-part.com for the engine. The other one I posted up just felt odd. It was 1 really really expensive-ish, (for the record the maxima game is CHEEEEAP, 1k for an engine in the 240sx game with 47k miles on it is godstatus.) But the customer service had no idea what I was talking about when I asked if the engine was exactly the same as the one in the pic. I tried to explain the differences in intake manifolds... then decided I shouldn't explain engines to people...who sell engines. I got a nice 65k running vq30de for 300 bucks plus 200 shipping. It should be here Friday or Monday.
Since I am waiting, I got my hands on a few things to keep me occupied in the meantime, Chrisman sold me some custom tail lights.
Here is them compared to the stock lights. No question I like dis.
So after I installed them, I shaved the emblem off the trunk using some sticker removal solution and a plastic razor blade. If you have never removed a badge, you don't know how much of a lifesaver the little red plastic razor is. It removes the nasty foam backing of the badge without damaging the paint.
So now the car looks nice, even though the engine is shot, I figured I may as well give the old girl a little underhood treatment, so I did.
Now I am just waiting for the engine to get here. Gonna powerwash, replace gaskets, replace motor mounts, and wrap my headers with titanium. Also have VHT gold engine enamel to spray the intake manifold, the turbo piping, and anything else that I want to be gold instead of brushed aluminum. I will see about doing the mishimoto on top of my radiator gold too...
because green with gold accents looks dope.
I am also going to look at my transmission while it is pulled. If it looks like the inside of paris Hiltons vagina at age 65... I will replace it as well.
I haven't made my mind up about the 6spd swap that is possible with my 4th gen... it looks like about 2k in parts before it is all said and done... and that's getting Surratt's off the hook transmission, shmellyfarts adapter and a jwt flywheel... I may just opt for a 400 dollar 5 speed and get a decent clutch on it and save my pennies for a 6 spd.
Once new engine gets in I will also test turbocharger to make sure it is mechanically sound, if I get the feeling that it is going then I am going to take crushers advice...odd to say that... and get the above mentioned turbo as well.
Also I noticed in my turbo set up the hot side is stupid close to fuseboxes... and me no likey melty. I am thinking about a turbo blanket to keep the heat off my sensitive plastic areas.
Oh yeah... also have some ebach lowering springs that are going to go on as well when da engine gets pulled.
So that will eliminate my trucklike wheel gap... maxride....
That's it for now... will post tons of pics when more shenanigans happen.
I have detailed the max as much as it can be. The paint is in pretty decent shape for being almost 20, but it still has a lot of flaws.
Still not too shabby.
I am awaiting anxiously my new engine. Decided to be responsible and do car-part.com for the engine. The other one I posted up just felt odd. It was 1 really really expensive-ish, (for the record the maxima game is CHEEEEAP, 1k for an engine in the 240sx game with 47k miles on it is godstatus.) But the customer service had no idea what I was talking about when I asked if the engine was exactly the same as the one in the pic. I tried to explain the differences in intake manifolds... then decided I shouldn't explain engines to people...who sell engines. I got a nice 65k running vq30de for 300 bucks plus 200 shipping. It should be here Friday or Monday.
Since I am waiting, I got my hands on a few things to keep me occupied in the meantime, Chrisman sold me some custom tail lights.
Here is them compared to the stock lights. No question I like dis.
So after I installed them, I shaved the emblem off the trunk using some sticker removal solution and a plastic razor blade. If you have never removed a badge, you don't know how much of a lifesaver the little red plastic razor is. It removes the nasty foam backing of the badge without damaging the paint.
So now the car looks nice, even though the engine is shot, I figured I may as well give the old girl a little underhood treatment, so I did.
Now I am just waiting for the engine to get here. Gonna powerwash, replace gaskets, replace motor mounts, and wrap my headers with titanium. Also have VHT gold engine enamel to spray the intake manifold, the turbo piping, and anything else that I want to be gold instead of brushed aluminum. I will see about doing the mishimoto on top of my radiator gold too...
because green with gold accents looks dope.
I am also going to look at my transmission while it is pulled. If it looks like the inside of paris Hiltons vagina at age 65... I will replace it as well.
I haven't made my mind up about the 6spd swap that is possible with my 4th gen... it looks like about 2k in parts before it is all said and done... and that's getting Surratt's off the hook transmission, shmellyfarts adapter and a jwt flywheel... I may just opt for a 400 dollar 5 speed and get a decent clutch on it and save my pennies for a 6 spd.
Once new engine gets in I will also test turbocharger to make sure it is mechanically sound, if I get the feeling that it is going then I am going to take crushers advice...odd to say that... and get the above mentioned turbo as well.
Also I noticed in my turbo set up the hot side is stupid close to fuseboxes... and me no likey melty. I am thinking about a turbo blanket to keep the heat off my sensitive plastic areas.
Oh yeah... also have some ebach lowering springs that are going to go on as well when da engine gets pulled.
So that will eliminate my trucklike wheel gap...
maxride....That's it for now... will post tons of pics when more shenanigans happen.
11-18-2015, 03:45 AM
#31
please find some different wheels. Build a heat shield or buy a turbo blanket. Heat will be a problem. A menace actually. Its one of the problems that is consistently holding me back how to deal with heat.
11-18-2015, 01:42 PM
#32
Yea i am man. Not a sitter.
Engine > transmission > suspension > wheels > interior > paint. Any questions in my math or my order of operations. I don't know what kinda wheels they are or nuttin... They look like rep rays for the g35... But... Done wrong... Idk. They are a good set of back up rims. I like BBS, enkei, OZ... One of them will end up on the car... In gold because green on gold is dope.
Engine > transmission > suspension > wheels > interior > paint. Any questions in my math or my order of operations. I don't know what kinda wheels they are or nuttin... They look like rep rays for the g35... But... Done wrong... Idk. They are a good set of back up rims. I like BBS, enkei, OZ... One of them will end up on the car... In gold because green on gold is dope.
11-19-2015, 09:12 PM
#35
11-22-2015, 06:55 PM
#36
So just got an aem wideband and an apexi turbo timer. Those are the must have gauges in the car other than the boostygauge. Also bought headerwrap (think I mentioned that already...) and some new fender bolts.
Also messed around with the turbo a bit... no shaft play and it isn't leaking any oil from what I can tell.
QUESTION DOE:
Where is a good spot to mount an oil catch can on this guy? Should be closer to the pvc valve to catch right? I haven't really thought about it... any input would be welcome... also any advice as to one that isn't sh*tty would be cool too.
Also messed around with the turbo a bit... no shaft play and it isn't leaking any oil from what I can tell.
QUESTION DOE:
Where is a good spot to mount an oil catch can on this guy? Should be closer to the pvc valve to catch right? I haven't really thought about it... any input would be welcome... also any advice as to one that isn't sh*tty would be cool too.
11-22-2015, 07:02 PM
#37
I would have went with a PLX or innovate wideband. They are more flexible, i have an AEM and i regretted buying it a little because its tricky to datalog and tune off of vs the others. Your going to need this for your wideband, plus a serial to USB cable. Works ok on my laptop, im still having issues with it because AEM tries to force you to buy their stuff by screwing up the voltages vs other widebands:
http://www.streettunedmotorsports.co...rial_cable.htm
http://www.streettunedmotorsports.co...rial_cable.htm
Last edited by Crusher103; 11-22-2015 at 07:05 PM.
11-22-2015, 07:08 PM
#39
Depending if you planned to tune it yourself vs taking it to someone else to do. If you were going to take it to a shop then it really doesnt matter and the AEM is extremely accurate wideband. But if street tuning was on the list, yea AEM will make things unnecessarily difficult at times. Its very doable but still.
11-22-2015, 07:11 PM
#40
Depending if you planned to tune it yourself vs taking it to someone else to do. If you were going to take it to a shop then it really doesnt matter and the AEM is extremely accurate wideband. But if street tuning was on the list, yea AEM will make things unnecessarily difficult at times. Its very doable but still.
oh
uh, no dyno tune for sure.
like for sure for sure. There are a couple of great places in atl that will put the stank on it...