[HELP] TPS Resistance testing (Video)
11-19-2015, 04:06 PM
#1
[HELP] TPS Resistance testing (Video)
I have a 97 Nissan Maxima. I have had P0500 and P0600. After doing the AT diagnostic test. The third flash was the longest, which means "Throttle sensor circuit is shorted or disconnected." I took a video of myself testing the resistance with a multimeter.
The FSM says the TPS resistance should be "Approximately 0.5 kilo-ohms" when completely closed. And when throttle is completely open it should be "Approximately 4.0 kilo-ohms." I'm not to familiar with multimeters.. Are the correct values being shown?
I am having a long cranking startup problem, but always starts. Also, there is hesitation when accelerating..
Thanks for any help! I have had this problem for a while!
VIDEO: (Open in Youtube for fullscreen)
The FSM says the TPS resistance should be "Approximately 0.5 kilo-ohms" when completely closed. And when throttle is completely open it should be "Approximately 4.0 kilo-ohms." I'm not to familiar with multimeters.. Are the correct values being shown?
I am having a long cranking startup problem, but always starts. Also, there is hesitation when accelerating..
Thanks for any help! I have had this problem for a while!
VIDEO: (Open in Youtube for fullscreen)
Last edited by jchronis2552; 11-19-2015 at 04:10 PM.
11-19-2015, 09:24 PM
#2
No. With the throttle closed, the reading is supposed to be .5K (500 ohms) The meter shows 4.82K (4,820 ohms), 9 times the proper value. When you opened the throttle, the meter reading changed to 1.46K (1,460 ohms), about 1/9 of the proper value.
You had the meter on the wrong pins, giving you a "backwards" reading. Both readings were about 800 ohms too high, but maybe this is because of the incorrect connection.
The meter is supposed to be connected to pins 2 & 3, which have a white and a black wire going to them. You had your meter connected to pins 1 & 2, which have a red and a white wire going to them. If you connect the meter to the correct pins (2 & 3), the meter should have the low reading with the throttle closed. Then maybe the numbers reported will be correct then.
Long cranking could be a bad CKPS(REF) crankshaft sensor, the one on the crankshaft pulley. Remove it and clean it and also check that the tip is not chipped or damaged. Check the resistance, it should be between 470 and 570 ohms at 70º.
You had the meter on the wrong pins, giving you a "backwards" reading. Both readings were about 800 ohms too high, but maybe this is because of the incorrect connection.
The meter is supposed to be connected to pins 2 & 3, which have a white and a black wire going to them. You had your meter connected to pins 1 & 2, which have a red and a white wire going to them. If you connect the meter to the correct pins (2 & 3), the meter should have the low reading with the throttle closed. Then maybe the numbers reported will be correct then.
Long cranking could be a bad CKPS(REF) crankshaft sensor, the one on the crankshaft pulley. Remove it and clean it and also check that the tip is not chipped or damaged. Check the resistance, it should be between 470 and 570 ohms at 70º.
11-20-2015, 10:26 AM
#3
No. With the throttle closed, the reading is supposed to be .5K (500 ohms) The meter shows 4.82K (4,820 ohms), 9 times the proper value. When you opened the throttle, the meter reading changed to 1.46K (1,460 ohms), about 1/9 of the proper value.
You had the meter on the wrong pins, giving you a "backwards" reading. Both readings were about 800 ohms too high, but maybe this is because of the incorrect connection.
The meter is supposed to be connected to pins 2 & 3, which have a white and a black wire going to them. You had your meter connected to pins 1 & 2, which have a red and a white wire going to them. If you connect the meter to the correct pins (2 & 3), the meter should have the low reading with the throttle closed. Then maybe the numbers reported will be correct then.
Long cranking could be a bad CKPS(REF) crankshaft sensor, the one on the crankshaft pulley. Remove it and clean it and also check that the tip is not chipped or damaged. Check the resistance, it should be between 470 and 570 ohms at 70º.
You had the meter on the wrong pins, giving you a "backwards" reading. Both readings were about 800 ohms too high, but maybe this is because of the incorrect connection.
The meter is supposed to be connected to pins 2 & 3, which have a white and a black wire going to them. You had your meter connected to pins 1 & 2, which have a red and a white wire going to them. If you connect the meter to the correct pins (2 & 3), the meter should have the low reading with the throttle closed. Then maybe the numbers reported will be correct then.
Long cranking could be a bad CKPS(REF) crankshaft sensor, the one on the crankshaft pulley. Remove it and clean it and also check that the tip is not chipped or damaged. Check the resistance, it should be between 470 and 570 ohms at 70º.
Ok, I retested and now I have the TPS set to 500 ohms closed. When I opened the throttle all the way it maxed out at 3,670 ohms. Is it bad that it's not 4,000 ohms?
I tested the CKPS(REF). The harness had continuity (2.1 ohms), even though the wires were exposed going into the harness. I used electrical tape and wrapped the bare wires up.
The CKPS(REF) sensor measured 562 Ohms.
Take a look at the three pictures below... what do you think? Is that paint affecting the performance of the sensor even if the sensor has an appropriate ohm reading?
I also checked all my coil packs for resistance, which all had. As well as checked the harnesses for power, they did.
Car still had hard time starting this morning till I pressed down on the accelerator. Hesitation/noise still there when accelerating.
SO, what to do now???
CKPS(REF) photo after taking sensor off car:
CKPS(REF) photo after cleaning sensor (I guess that is paint on the end?)
CKPS(REF) photo after scraping as much off:
Last edited by jchronis2552; 11-20-2015 at 10:28 AM.
11-20-2015, 10:35 AM
#4
Alright, So after looking at the Crankshaft position sensor (REF) on ebay I noticed that the sensor is supposed to have the black paint on the end. FML. Here I am trying to scrape the rest off. lmao... So if the tip is exposed like that, without the paint, will that cause long cranking and acceleration hesitation?
*Remember, it had a good Ohm reading of 562.
Here is what the tip should look like (Black, not silver)
*Remember, it had a good Ohm reading of 562.
Here is what the tip should look like (Black, not silver)
11-20-2015, 02:43 PM
#5
Don't worry about the TPS resistance. The closed throttle reading is what is the most important.
For the crankshaft sensor, I don't think that the tip really has to be covered. Partially covered possibly could have a bad effect, so all clean or all covered is the way I would go on this.
I take it that you have reinstalled the sensor since you cleaned it and it didn't really help. Does the engine run OK when it is warmed up or does it hesitate all the time?
For the crankshaft sensor, I don't think that the tip really has to be covered. Partially covered possibly could have a bad effect, so all clean or all covered is the way I would go on this.
I take it that you have reinstalled the sensor since you cleaned it and it didn't really help. Does the engine run OK when it is warmed up or does it hesitate all the time?
11-20-2015, 02:55 PM
#6
Don't worry about the TPS resistance. The closed throttle reading is what is the most important.
For the crankshaft sensor, I don't think that the tip really has to be covered. Partially covered possibly could have a bad effect, so all clean or all covered is the way I would go on this.
I take it that you have reinstalled the sensor since you cleaned it and it didn't really help. Does the engine run OK when it is warmed up or does it hesitate all the time?
For the crankshaft sensor, I don't think that the tip really has to be covered. Partially covered possibly could have a bad effect, so all clean or all covered is the way I would go on this.
I take it that you have reinstalled the sensor since you cleaned it and it didn't really help. Does the engine run OK when it is warmed up or does it hesitate all the time?
acceleration noise/hesitation.
Startup is the problem. If I don't use the gas petal it may take 20 sec to startup. Sometimes the tachometer will fluctuate from 400-900, then settle around 750 after a minute. idles perfect from there.
Also, I have noticed that the car jerks when going from 1st to 2nd gear.. which makes since since I have P0600 (A/T Control Serial Communication Link Malfunction).
Check out this video of my IACV. Is it supposed to make that noise?
11-20-2015, 03:24 PM
#7
I don't remember my 97 making that noise, so I have to say that it isn't right. I hope someone else will chime in and answer that.
So after watching your video, one of the other videos that show up afterwards was how to test the IACV. The one in the video made some noise but not the clicking that yours makes. While I don't like the clicking noise, I don't think the IACV is your problem. Here is that video:
After you start the car and the engine warms up, does the hesitation go away? If it does, you could have a bad ECTS (Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor). These also cause hard starting on a cold day.
So after watching your video, one of the other videos that show up afterwards was how to test the IACV. The one in the video made some noise but not the clicking that yours makes. While I don't like the clicking noise, I don't think the IACV is your problem. Here is that video:
After you start the car and the engine warms up, does the hesitation go away? If it does, you could have a bad ECTS (Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor). These also cause hard starting on a cold day.
11-20-2015, 03:32 PM
#8
I don't remember my 97 making that noise, so I have to say that it isn't right. I hope someone else will chime in and answer that.
So after watching your video, one of the other videos that show up afterwards was how to test the IACV. The one in the video made some noise but not the clicking that yours makes. While I don't like the clicking noise, I don't think the IACV is your problem. Here is that video:
After you start the car and the engine warms up, does the hesitation go away? If it does, you could have a bad ECTS (Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor). These also cause hard starting on a cold day.
So after watching your video, one of the other videos that show up afterwards was how to test the IACV. The one in the video made some noise but not the clicking that yours makes. While I don't like the clicking noise, I don't think the IACV is your problem. Here is that video:
After you start the car and the engine warms up, does the hesitation go away? If it does, you could have a bad ECTS (Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor). These also cause hard starting on a cold day.
Hm, thats a good question.. I would say that the hesitation/noise is worse when the engine is cold but, still there when engine is warm.
I can test the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor. Ill post results here.
11-20-2015, 03:54 PM
#9
Do you have an OBD code reader that can capture "live" data?
If yes, then let the car sit over night and in the morning hook up the code reader. Turn the ignition key on, but don't start the car. Then look at the coolant temperature. It should be whatever the air temperature outside the car is.
If yes, then let the car sit over night and in the morning hook up the code reader. Turn the ignition key on, but don't start the car. Then look at the coolant temperature. It should be whatever the air temperature outside the car is.
11-20-2015, 08:50 PM
#10
Do you have an OBD code reader that can capture "live" data?
If yes, then let the car sit overnight and in the morning hook up the code reader. Turn the ignition key on, but don't start the car. Then look at the coolant temperature. It should be whatever the air temperature outside the car is.
If yes, then let the car sit overnight and in the morning hook up the code reader. Turn the ignition key on, but don't start the car. Then look at the coolant temperature. It should be whatever the air temperature outside the car is.
The first video is of me cranking the maxima after sitting for about 5 hours. My foot is off the gas pedal. Also notice that a couple times when the key is turned, nothing happens. Why is that?
The second video is the maxima accelerating 2 minutes after startup. If you listen carefully you will hear the noise.
11-20-2015, 09:29 PM
#11
I heard what I would call a thumping noise or a muffled backfire. Don't have any idea on that. Sorry.
11-20-2015, 09:45 PM
#12
1.9Kohm is about right for 70 to 75º temperature. If the ECTS was causing the starting problem, the resistance reading would be be more like 200 ohms (.2K) or less.
Don't have any real suggestions for the long crank. Maybe the throttle body has build-up at the throttle plate and is blocking off the air. But the key doing nothing when you turn it seems to be the classic 4th gen bad ignition switch.
I heard what I would call a thumping noise or a muffled backfire. Don't have any idea on that. Sorry.
Don't have any real suggestions for the long crank. Maybe the throttle body has build-up at the throttle plate and is blocking off the air. But the key doing nothing when you turn it seems to be the classic 4th gen bad ignition switch.
I heard what I would call a thumping noise or a muffled backfire. Don't have any idea on that. Sorry.
Ok then I will put it back in tomorrow.
I will order a new ignition switch then, thanks!
Alright I'll keep searching around to find a fix for the starting problem and acceleration noise.
I ordered this cool little Bluetooth OBDII scanner that gives me all the live data from the car. Hopefully I will get some useful info from it.
Thanks for your help Dennis!
http://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/271989590401
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