rad leaking around the edges on top....
02-07-2016, 05:49 PM
#1
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rad leaking around the edges on top....
so i popped the hood and i smelled radiator fluid, ( not good ) and noticed the right hand side in front of the driver has been leaking at one point but none that i could see was fresh. not a lot as the overflow tank was on the line. it looked like it was leaking where the metal and plastic were connected.
drove maxy around all day and not a drop, didn't overheat, nothing. 2 things, pep boys offers a reseal of the radiator for $20.00 and tops off your fluid, what brand of hardening compound works on metal and plastic??
especially where the heat and fluid are present, or do i let pep boys do the job and say screw it, i got a warranty.
i think it's a doable easy fix, saw a couple of write-ups, but there was no brand name on the product they were using.
drove maxy around all day and not a drop, didn't overheat, nothing. 2 things, pep boys offers a reseal of the radiator for $20.00 and tops off your fluid, what brand of hardening compound works on metal and plastic??
especially where the heat and fluid are present, or do i let pep boys do the job and say screw it, i got a warranty.
i think it's a doable easy fix, saw a couple of write-ups, but there was no brand name on the product they were using.
Last edited by max ride 41; 02-07-2016 at 05:51 PM.
02-07-2016, 05:55 PM
#2
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20.00 from pep boys to reseal it sounds better than doing it yourself and cheaper than going out and buying the glue compounds required to do it not to mention time consuming and waist of money if you don't get it right. Pep boys most likely are going to reseal it professionally and guaruntee the job.
02-07-2016, 06:02 PM
#3
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Location: The Sunshine State
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buy a new radiator, that repair will never last
$110, order it online and use a $40 off coupon then go pick it up at the store
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/c...509/19920014-P
or a denso rad from rockauto for $55+shipping
$110, order it online and use a $40 off coupon then go pick it up at the store
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/c...509/19920014-P
or a denso rad from rockauto for $55+shipping
02-07-2016, 07:54 PM
#5
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I would say the best one close OEM and that has the same exact design and look as OEM is the Koyorad Radiator which I got from ebay 100.00 dollars and is working better than any aftermarket radiator I have had in the past. I had one from autozone and it started to gunk up on the sides and was showing signs deterioration as it was only a year old. The Koyorad A1752 which is the model number for it is gonna be your best bet.
02-08-2016, 04:19 AM
#7
02-08-2016, 08:49 AM
#9
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I replaced my radiator with a koyorad three years ago. Looks like a quality product. Works very well.
Resealed radiators don't last.
Would you rather replace the radiator now, or the engine after it overheats this summaet?
Resealed radiators don't last.
Would you rather replace the radiator now, or the engine after it overheats this summaet?
02-08-2016, 09:22 AM
#10
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I got this last year for $87, and it's now $79. Never had any issues and it's been in the car about 9 mos. now.
The only issue I had was no heat right after I replaced it, but I burped the system and it was good ever since.
Note--I bought lower radiator bushings from Nissan, had to special order them, and turns out, like someone told me at a party, they were not needed, only the top ones.
edit: now I remember why I got this one, I have a stick and it was unclear if I could use a rad designed for an auto (most were, online), this one said I could in the description
The only issue I had was no heat right after I replaced it, but I burped the system and it was good ever since.
Note--I bought lower radiator bushings from Nissan, had to special order them, and turns out, like someone told me at a party, they were not needed, only the top ones.
edit: now I remember why I got this one, I have a stick and it was unclear if I could use a rad designed for an auto (most were, online), this one said I could in the description
Last edited by Frank Fontaine; 02-08-2016 at 09:25 AM.
02-08-2016, 03:51 PM
#11
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Location: Central AR
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buy a new radiator, that repair will never last
$110, order it online and use a $40 off coupon then go pick it up at the store
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/c...509/19920014-P
or a denso rad from rockauto for $55+shipping
$110, order it online and use a $40 off coupon then go pick it up at the store
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/c...509/19920014-P
or a denso rad from rockauto for $55+shipping
+1 to this AdvanceAuto radiator.
How does $76.99 work for a price?
I order online, use the TRT30 discount code, and specify "in store pickup". I'm still running one I bought almost 5 years ago.
02-08-2016, 07:08 PM
#12
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good deal, thanks for the heads up on the rads guys. i'm waiting a little while cause i think the line on the side was the culprit. will find out on friday or monday when i put her up in the air.
02-08-2016, 08:40 PM
#13
When you can get an Ebay radiator for about $45 to $50 shipped, I think the decision is a no brainer.
I admit, the price does seem too cheap, but I can vouch for installing one in a friends car and it's been fine the last year or so.
I admit, the price does seem too cheap, but I can vouch for installing one in a friends car and it's been fine the last year or so.
02-09-2016, 04:54 AM
#14
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Is it worth paying $29 more for a better radiator with a no hassle return/exchange? Depends.
02-09-2016, 06:03 AM
#15
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welp, i'm gonna wait until my mechanic and me take a good look at it and determine if it's a line or what it is. looked at it again this morning and bone dry.
Last edited by max ride 41; 02-09-2016 at 05:29 PM.
02-10-2016, 08:28 AM
#18
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Sounds like what I had 6 months ago, my car would reach 76% hot but never overheat, when I came to a complete stop it would go down to 50%, when my mechanic looked.. There was no coolant left..and cause I was doing more highway driving..the small crack on top the radiator was leaking when I was at 2.5k RPM, I'm thinking this is your case..the old one I had was the orginal radiator; it did its job for almost 2 decades
02-10-2016, 09:19 AM
#19
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nooo, there's no cracks and she doesn't overheat. as stated, i think the line on the upper drivers side of the rad came a little loose and caused a small leak making it seem like the rad is leaking. no leaks since.
02-10-2016, 10:11 AM
#21
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My clue was that I had to top off the coolant--in 17 yrs. on the road, I never had to do that. We were at a jobsite (1.x mil. sq ft. warehouse with no plumbing) so my colleague and I sat in my car for heat (it was 6F), with the motor idling. I saw steam escaping under the hood.
If you're on the east coast, this method will work Sat. night, as it's supposed to be 0F.
But you know, we're talking about an $88 radiator, we're not talking about a $4,000 DSC module on a BMW.
If you're on the east coast, this method will work Sat. night, as it's supposed to be 0F.
But you know, we're talking about an $88 radiator, we're not talking about a $4,000 DSC module on a BMW.
02-10-2016, 10:13 AM
#22
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Coolant is one fluid that should never need attention. If anyone thinks they can simply keep topping it off and it's not an indication of a problem that could become serious, well, what can we say. And it's < $100, so pay me now pay me later comes to mind.
02-10-2016, 11:18 AM
#23
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Location: Portland, Oregon
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The engine is rather important, and is expensive to replace.
So let's not change the most important part which protects it.
Instead of replacing the radiator now, it could be replaced while on family vacation while going up Bad *** Pass while it's 100 degrees.
So let's not change the most important part which protects it.
Instead of replacing the radiator now, it could be replaced while on family vacation while going up Bad *** Pass while it's 100 degrees.
02-10-2016, 06:11 PM
#24
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gentlemen, please, i've been chasing a small coolant leak in my max since before i replaced my radiator 8 years ago. i top it off every 4 months or so, and with the colder weather it eats more fluid and the leak is more prevident. i have been looking at the radiator every time i drive it and today i filled the overflow tank an inch over just to see if it goes anywhere, nothing. it's looking like maybe the upper rad hose might have leaked a little, and i think when i got stuck in the snow 3 weeks ago it might have overheated a little. lines,hoses look dry, levels fine, i'll keep you posted.
02-10-2016, 09:25 PM
#25
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I've had the same issues. Just concerned about the coolant levels. I've seen times when a radiator is neglected, and a good engine is ruined.
I'm just looking out for you. I wish you all the best. Good luck.
I'm just looking out for you. I wish you all the best. Good luck.
02-11-2016, 05:25 AM
#26
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thanks man, i had a friend who had a coolant leak that was bad and he kept topping it off with water. i told him that was not the way to do it and he should fix the leak and sure enough a week or 2 later the engine overheated and seized. 
his max was a pos anyway, but he could've saved it by simply fixing the leak. i know the importance of engine coolant and oil, and pretty much every fluid under the hood, i top off w/e looks a little low and change what need to be changed. common sense really 
i told him that was not the way to do it and he should fix the leak and sure enough a week or 2 later the engine overheated and seized. his max was a pos anyway, but he could've saved it by simply fixing the leak. i know the importance of engine coolant and oil, and pretty much every fluid under the hood, i top off w/e looks a little low and change what need to be changed. common sense really
04-28-2016, 06:26 PM
#27
Reason being is while raising my max tonight to install an AC compressor I noticed red ATF dripping from the left engine splash shield. After removing the shield I could see it dripping from the ATF return hose mounted onto the radiator. After draining the ATF I tried removing the rusted clamp on the dripping hose and the mounting port broke off the radiator!
Replacing the radiator is a much easier install than the AC compressor, drier,and charging the AC system I'll be performing on this raised max.
Last edited by jholley; 10-29-2017 at 04:01 AM.
04-28-2016, 06:53 PM
#28
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That discount code is still active! Saved $32 ordering that highly rated radiator tonight. Total came to $80 ($75.59 + tax). It's stocked at a local AdvanceAuto store so I'll pick it up tomorrow afternoon on my way home from work.
Reason being is while raising my max tonight to install an AC compressor I noticed red ATF dripping from the left engine splash shield. After removing the shield I could see it dripping from the ATF return hose mounted onto the radiator. After draining the ATF I tried removing the rusted clamp on the dripping hose and the mounting port broke off the radiator!
I first thought or ordering an OEM mounting port but decided might as well replace this original radiator with 162,000 miles. Replacing the radiator is a much easier install than the AC compressor, drier,and charging the AC system I'll be performing on this raised max.
Reason being is while raising my max tonight to install an AC compressor I noticed red ATF dripping from the left engine splash shield. After removing the shield I could see it dripping from the ATF return hose mounted onto the radiator. After draining the ATF I tried removing the rusted clamp on the dripping hose and the mounting port broke off the radiator!
I first thought or ordering an OEM mounting port but decided might as well replace this original radiator with 162,000 miles. Replacing the radiator is a much easier install than the AC compressor, drier,and charging the AC system I'll be performing on this raised max.
A bad radiator is something that can do a lot of costly damage to the engine or transmission. You don't want your transmission to experience the Strawberry Milkshake of Death (SMOD) from a rusted ATF radiator fitting.
I know a bunch of V6 Honda owners that lost transmissions due to SMOD from a rusting ATF hose fittings like the one in the picture.
04-28-2016, 06:59 PM
#29
I'm still running an Advance radiator that I bought back in 2010. Actually I have 3 cars that are running AA radiators. No problems -- knock on wood.
A bad radiator is something that can do a lot of costly damage to the engine or transmission. You don't want your transmission to experience the Strawberry Milkshake of Death (SMOD) from a rusted ATF radiator fitting.
I know a bunch of V6 Honda owners that lost transmissions due to SMOD from a rusting ATF hose fittings like the one in the picture.
A bad radiator is something that can do a lot of costly damage to the engine or transmission. You don't want your transmission to experience the Strawberry Milkshake of Death (SMOD) from a rusted ATF radiator fitting.
I know a bunch of V6 Honda owners that lost transmissions due to SMOD from a rusting ATF hose fittings like the one in the picture.
The green coolant has over 22,000 miles so I'll be picking up another gallon at Nissan tomorrow.
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