When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Well another day in the Max, got off work today and well.. My car did some strange stuff, it was bogging and hesitating on acceleration, at idle sometimes it will be smooth and then it will start to bogg and the whole car is shaking, rpm will drop from 700-500 then back 700-500 repeatedly. It felt like the car wanted to die.. It was not pretty to see. The car was literally lagging on accleration.. I did not like that at all.
Couple things I've noticed
-high pitch noise under accerlation sometimes at 2k rpm-2.2k, vacuum leak? It has had this for a couple months.
-car sometimes started not so smooth after turning it off and turning it back on in a hour or so. Starts up smoothly overnight or a couple hours of it being off.
-I'm thinking it's the coil packs starting to go, or spark plugs? But I have replaced all spark plugs with good quality laser platinum NGK plugs about 6 months ago. I think it's about time the coils or injectors are ready to go and need to service.
I can smell My CEL coming back on soon, been off for 3years. these symptoms just started a couple hours ago.. Well it's time for it to get some service soon.. I am just waiting for the CEL to turn on, I am not afraid to see it go on cause I know it's coming.
the ETS has to deal with the issue im experiencing? I dont see that being the case.. cause If I reach to normal temp, the car would stall out and its not doing that.
It kinda feels like when I got my spark plugs service 6 months ago, when they were wet the CEL would flash, and it definitely feels like the same symptoms I am experiencing today... Bogging/lagg on acceleration, But its hard to believe if its my spark plugs.. all brand new. The spark plug eventually got dry a day later and stopped causing those symptoms. CEL turned its self off.
Just waiting for the CEL to turn on anytime now. Any other idea's guys? Especially my vacuum leak has to do something with the problem! I hate the high pitch squeal noise when im at 2k-2.2k rpm.
Fuel pressure regulator, injectors, have a good feeling it has to be those. But why would those cause my car to bogg up? What are the cost to replace those? What parts should I use for best results(aftermarket,oem?) , price range?
Since it may be either those cause of that one symptom when I turn off the car and turn it back on in a hour, it doesn't start up so smoothly.. Which may be the injectors not firing up the correct amount of fuel? May fall in same category for fuel pressure regulator as well.
And why isn't it the coilpacks? What does failing coil packs do. The car was lagging so hard it wasn't even funny to watch. Also dangerous
Been looking up on failing injectors and it seems like that's what I am experecing but can't be 100% on that..similar symptoms, time to go see failing FPR symptoms.
Bogging on first video happens during 0secs-9 secs(steering wheel shakes a little while the rpms drop) I was at a complete stop and went ahead and stepped on the gas u can hear the high pitch sound at 2k-3k rpm towards the end of the video, this was in drive.
second video is in park only, I rev it up to where you can hear the high pitch sound starting at 7 seconds.
unfortunate I was unable to get the lagg issue, but it does happen at times when i am in drive, It'll act up at 1.5k rpm and jerk a bit.. hard to explain, but it feels like that it pushes me back in a sense.
I'm with The Wizard on this, vacuum leak of some sort. Have you or anyone else been under the hood for any reason? If it's not a vacuum leak and it's fuel related it could be many things, including the fuel pump. If you own a smartphone download an app called torque (free version) and buy or borrow an elm327 device to hook up to your obd2 port and monitor fuel,air,vacuum in real time. I would check under the hood to make sure every connection and hose is hooked up.
Well the last repair I had under the hood was my Alternator/starter 6 months ago by my mechanic who I know, haven't had a problem until yesterday. The high pitch started i think 3 months after my alternator/starter was installed. I believe the FPR/hose lines are near the starter I believe.. SO in that case I think the hose near the starter may have a vacuum leak who knows..but now its getting to the point where its becoming really noticeable and is happening everytime.
it wouldn't really ever do this.. all I ever had was the cranking issue when I would turn off the car, then turn it back on in a hour it wouldn't start too smoothly. overnight/couple hours it would start up smoothly. This could be the FPR/fuel related that is about to fail soon?
also I have been searching and searching, I cannot find this answer...
If it was the Fuel pressure regulator, Do I have to go OEM or Aftermarket? What about the pump-OEM/aftermarket?
whats the prices on these things, also I probably may end up replacing the hose as well. So this should be atleast a $100 job right?
mechanic wont be able to check it out until later this week, so i'm doing some research to get ahead of the game.
You could look up the price on amazon or rock auto.
Might as well replace the hose whIle you are in there anyway. Also the fuel filter if you have not done that already.
Really, Josh, thus is something which you could do on your own.
Well the last repair I had under the hood was my Alternator/starter 6 months ago by my mechanic who I know, haven't had a problem until yesterday. The high pitch started i think 3 months after my alternator/starter was installed. I believe the FPR/hose lines are near the starter I believe.. SO in that case I think the hose near the starter may have a vacuum leak who knows..but now its getting to the point where its becoming really noticeable and is happening everytime.
it wouldn't really ever do this.. all I ever had was the cranking issue when I would turn off the car, then turn it back on in a hour it wouldn't start too smoothly. overnight/couple hours it would start up smoothly. This could be the FPR/fuel related that is about to fail soon?
also I have been searching and searching, I cannot find this answer...
If it was the Fuel pressure regulator, Do I have to go OEM or Aftermarket? What about the pump-OEM/aftermarket?
whats the prices on these things, also I probably may end up replacing the hose as well. So this should be atleast a $100 job right?
mechanic wont be able to check it out until later this week, so i'm doing some research to get ahead of the game.
I was looking for the price on a fpr and stumbled on this .org thread, check it out and see if it applies to you.
Here is the price on a fpr, Just a quick search I did, I'm sure you can find them cheaper somewhere. I wouldn't consider this to be an item you need to go oem on myself, but that's just my opinion.
Ok so I got back into this, Turned out for the bogging/lagg issue... It stalled out on me the other day so I had a look on the coilpacks, Well the seals/coils were cracked that spark was shooting out inside the coil packs. Also had a look on my intake manifold gasket, which was also cracked a leaking a bit of oil. It had around 5 cracks all around on the old.
So I have replaced...
All 6 coils with Used OEM working/not cracked for 20$ a pop from junkyard (120$ total)
Replaced intake manifold gasket while I was there, $25 part, took a bit of time to get the intake manifold off, cleaned off inside the intake where the cylinders are.. thought this was the source of the vacuum leak.
Clean off EGR where it meets the intake manifold, there wasn't that much carbon but cleaned it off anyways.
Total was $300, pretty much half for parts and half labor. which was great considering I have seen some posts where some shops charge $900 for just all coils..
CEL has remained Off, haven't took it for a drive but should be fine. For the vacuum leak, Its still there but not as loud. Guess gotta live with it, Atleast it wont lagg or stall out on me. for Vacuum leaks it has to be either a Hose/gasket, nothing else.
The parts I have replaced have NOT fixed the bogging/lagg issue.. It stalled out on me today! gonna have to take a look at it again tomorrow... It still has that high pitch noise a little..
Will do, but that's just for the vacuum leak, we thought it was the intake manifold gasket..but that didn't seem to be the case.
what about the stalling/bogging, heavy hesitation issue? That is not funny at all when driving.. I could get into An accident and currently it is not drivable at all, well it is but with this issue.. It's not worth the risk as it can stall out anytime, it's embarrassing when it's lagging so bad.
The second I step on the gas pedal most of the time now..not all the time, it'll go up like normal and jerk like crazy and bog down from 2k down to 500 rpm, then back up 800, hesitate some more, lagg like crazy, car acting like a crazy machine..
But for that part.. We are going to have to look at the fuel pressure regulator.. From y'alls feedback...We have a strong sense it's fuel related plus the vacuum leak at the same time that's causing the high pitch noise and the crazy bogging and lagg/stalling issue.
Will get more updates, going to continuing to work on this issue tomorrow and report back what's going on.
You gotta figure out where the high pitched noise is coming from, and address it. This may solve all your issues. Right now, you're just guessing and throwing money at the car.
Then we'll dive into other things like the FPR, MAF etc.
Ok so I took it in to a shop to see if they were able to diagnose it.. They couldn't see any cracks or vacuum leaks using the spray method.. So they went for a drive and defiantly felt it right away. Did more diagnosing with their machine... The problem was the Check engine light was off so it was harder, he says its misfiring somewhere.. I have new coil packs/fairly new ngk platinum laser installed..
The only thing crossing my mind is injectors/fuel pump or fuel related.. But they didn't tell me exactly what it was after 5hours, they have tried their best.
I'm just trying to figure out what it is and have my own mechanic fix it cause they have the machine..and my own mechanic doesn't own those expensive machines. He does great work but this one was a tough one to figure out..even the shop couldn't figure it out. Mobile mechanics are the way to go, cheap labor.. Don't gotta pay the big stores what they owe to the machines and their rent and stuff.. My mechanic has been successful on my previous repairs, but this one is a tough one.
They didn't charge me a penny, yes 0$ after trying to figure it out.. Thank goodness..
I have videos of what the situation looks like. Maybe y'all could find what it is.. Cause it's hard without any check engine light off.. Only code is the ghost knock sensor like always. But that has to do nothing with this problem.
The bogging issue was happening every so then about two months ago when I tried getting on video but was unable to cause it wasn't often enough.... now it's becoming worse and every time now, I was able to get it on video. It all started with that high pitch noise 4 months ago on the video above on this thread..
It's a misfire/ vacuum leak of a sort.. We are trying to avoid throwing parts at it, But i have replaced a good amount of stuff the past year or so. not too much but not too little.
Wow, what a head scratcher. I have no clue, the bogging imitates a bad maf. I was reading random threads the other day and read about the maf having solder points breaking, causing an intermittent problem like yours. You have zero codes so I don't know, but here is a link to one of the threads. I think I read others where there was no code, but I don't have time right now to track that down. Again, I'm throwing spitballs trying to help, I hope you get it fixed and tell us what it is.
I was looking at my 97 fsm at things that don't throw a code but have not finished yet, but will post if I find something that might help. Injectors come to mind for some reason, but again I'm guessing.
Any suggestions based on the videos I posted ? I won't be able to start on it until weds, it's gotten a bit worse.. Looks like some part is on its last leg. I am not gonna drive it until it's fixed.
The shop had a look at the maf and the voltage was within specs and wasn't that dirty. If my MAF is out then I'm gonna have to upgrade to a aftermarket cold air intake or something in that matter, aftermarket "oem" maf has problems with these cars and used oem from junkyard may work..I would go with cold air intake anyways if that was the problem.
i have same problem and only at a light or parked. after warming up mine is fine, i replaced plugs and 1 coil pack and she runs better, still kinda has an uneven idle at startup, but, i'm not concerned with that.
My 98 was having the same issue, no codes were present and no vaccum line issues. Do you know how to stall out the car with the EGR vavle? Test to see if the exhaust gases are flowing properly. if your car does not stall then that could be 1 problem. Any how I replaced mine and that bogging issue similar to your issue went away.
i have same problem and only at a light or parked. after warming up mine is fine, i replaced plugs and 1 coil pack and she runs better, still kinda has an uneven idle at startup, but, i'm not concerned with that.
well my problem does it immediately, either if its cold or not, it will jerk/misfire and do all crazy stuff, even stall out sometimes. when driving, its so hard to drive it cause of the issues its experiencing..not even drive-able right now, I have to drive really slow.
Either if its in park/drive/idle, it doesn't change a thing
thats odd, I have put front and back 6 used working Oem coils 5 days ago, replaced spark plugs with NGK platinum laser 9 months ago..
if it was the spark plugs, my Check engine light would be flashing when its misfiring..and that isn't the case.. its not doing that. Also applies to coils, no CEL after replacing them.
My 98 was having the same issue, no codes were present and no vaccum line issues. Do you know how to stall out the car with the EGR vavle? Test to see if the exhaust gases are flowing properly. if your car does not stall then that could be 1 problem. Any how I replaced mine and that bogging issue similar to your issue went away.
May have to see that.. I have a strong feeling fuel is not passing along somewhere or like you mention.. EGR valves..
Well it was making a whine noise a for while at 2k rpm. Since they said I have no vacuum leak, or no broken hoses... Could it be that? I called one of my technicians who works at dealership and told me if no CEL and bogging what I am experiencing.. He said it could be a fuel pump. So don't kno if that's the case
have you watched the first 2 videos listed above? those were the exact same noises it produced.
I think you might have 2 different problems. The squeal being one issue and the bogging being the other. You had the alternator worked on and that squeal sounds like a bad tensioner pulley. I just fixed that problem about a month ago. Does the sound come from the passenger side tire by the alternator? Take the belt off and see if the sound goes away. Of course put the belt back on after the test.
In the video above, 2k rpm drive, where is that loud clunking noise coming from? Have you gone to the back of the car and listened to the exhaust and put your hand up close to it, to feel how the air coming out of it feels? After putting your flat hand close to the exhaust, smell it. Does it smell like gas, rotten eggs or something else?
I'm thinking fuel pressure problem or restricted air flow problem. You say there are no codes, but have you put a code reader on it? Are you sure the check engine light works? If you put a code reader on, did you check pending codes? On my reader, pending codes don't show unless I hit the pending code button.
Well I got the car back from the shop, I had a lot of carbon build up on my spark plugs and throttle body, and I'm sure everywhere else.
Supposedly my cylinder 2 coil was bad.. But they also said my spark plugs were fairly new and had a lot of carbon build up on it..
They wanted to change only that coil for $259 parts and labor.. For one coil. I said no..
Then the other option was to do an entire carbon system clean throughout the whole system, from throttle body to fuel lines, injectors, pistons and everywhere else for $175. I thought this would make perfect sense cause of them saying I had a lot of carbon build up on my spark plugs and everywhere else.. Cause I do a lot of city driving and short distances
So I said, Since I already replaced all the coils... I just want to do the carbon clean up service. So I did that only.. They said I had codes p0300, p302, but please note that... The bulb works but does not light up on when I drive...so I found it a bit odd....throttle body full of carbon/spark plugs.
But when they said I had codes.. My check engine light is NOT on when driving. So this left me questioning.. They said I had a lot of carbon, so I'm assuming that the carbon build up on the spark plugs/throttle body was causing everything I was experiencing. And wanted to replace that one coil for $259 so they can make more money off of me? And probably knew that the coils were already good? But only wanted to replace one? But knew the carbon build up was the real issue? And that's why other shops or my own mechanic couldn't figure out what it was?
So I took it for a 4hour drive after the carbon clean up service. NO misfiring, no stalling/bogging/ no hesitation/ no jerking all over the place.
I may have found what my problem was... Carbon on the throttle body + spark plugs with carbon.. And of course wherever else they build up
Will report back if anything happens. But for now, it's all smooth... Before it would misfire like crazy the second I started it, there was no way around it..
Success: carbon build up service $179. Seem to solve my issue. We will see. No cel light, no misfiring right now. Guess there was carbon just filled up everywhere causing the issues I have experienced. From fuel lines to injectors to throttle body.. Pistons..
04-08-2016, 02:05 PM
gonna have to take a look at it again tomorrow... It still has that high pitch noise a little..
