theWalkinator

So I have this ignition slop issue about 3 years ago and the temporary fix was to cut a piece of coke can and shimmed it in the T-shape slot. Recently, the ignition switch is getting looser and looser, to start the car, though it starts fine but I have to turn the key a little further passing the normal "Start" position. But it got worse, the car shut itself off several times when braking or come to a stop, it once shut off in the middle of an intersection while I was making a left turn so it has become dangerous. I knew it is the ignition switch on its way out so I decided to replace it.

The part is $35.99 from Advance Auto, CarQuest brand, cannot tell difference from OE one, 20 minutes to swapped the parts and it now feels tight, turn to Start position and it fines right up. I feel that the car idles smoother and tranny shifts better, even the gas mileage is getting better.

Ignition switch removed:


Old and new, you can see I got a piece of Coke can shimmed in the T-slot in the old ignition switch:


New ignition switch installed:


Put trim cover back and done:

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The fact that you had to shim the original ignition switch meant that it was wearing out. Doing the shimming didn't stop the wearing out process, it only delayed you in having to replace it.

But you did it and gave us some nice pics that should help the next guy. Congrats.

bumpypickle

iTrader: (1)

about to do grounding kit, spark plugs, fuel filter and intake cleaning. Might as well add this to the list now

theWalkinator

Yes, so my advice is, if you have similar problem, don't shim it, replace it, you don't want to have the car turns itself off in the middle of high way or in intersection, it is safety issue. The part is pretty cheap and replacement is very simple, take about 20 minutes to do the job, just need a phillip head screwdriver.

DBear

I have to disagree. When I first had the problem with intermittent no start issues, I replaced the ignition switch at least once, and maybe twice. It wasn't until I shimmed it that the problem went away.

I think it's more an issue with the lock cylinder itself. But even then, about a year after I replaced my lock cylinder (and ignition switch again, I think), the problem came back. So it may just be a matter of the steering column tolerances being a little too big.

asand1

iTrader: (1)

Picked up a new switch yesterday and installed it this morning. I paid $31.99 at NAPA, however they are are only $18-$25 on Rockauto.

Here are some pics of the contacts from the old switch.






The burnt contact is marked "S".