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Have my 1996 Maxima I got very cheap as it needed work but it did start and drive.
I replaced front and back gasket seals and seals for spark plugs. I replaced spark plugs and coils and also the knock sensor. Put it all back together and now I have a crank but no start issue.
I cannot figure out the issue at all. Tried to jump it in case battery had drained some when out while working and same issue.
I took a few things back off and noticed this connector, not connected but I never removed it unless I knocked it out during my work I did. It runs off the harness for the coil connectors and near the battery. I am wondrering what connector it is and is it maybe the cause of my no start/spark to the plugs? I also for the life of me see no place that it may have come from?? It is just odd to me. It is in the photo.
Please any help would be so appreciated, I just wanna get her started and drive her again.
think thats the transmission breather hose, its supposed to be like that i believe.. that is not causing your no start issue.
Dang was hoping it was the cause. Well this explains why it was out than haha Still learning as I go, still no idea why it wont start after repairs. Next guess was take the battery to be tested, it has juice but maybe it was drained some when not in use.
think thats the transmission breather hose, its supposed to be like that i believe.. that is not causing your no start issue.
Originally Posted by Michaeldillon20
Dang was hoping it was the cause. Well this explains why it was out than haha Still learning as I go, still no idea why it wont start after repairs. Next guess was take the battery to be tested, it has juice but maybe it was drained some when not in use.
Thanks for the answer, I appreciate it.
That's not a hose (although there is a breather hose in the area not seen in your pic) what you are referring to is an electric plug and it plugs into your stock intake I believe it goes somewhere on the outside of the airfilter housing, into your stock intake for 95-96 and in the snorkel for 97-99(?). It affects pretty much nothing except for illuminating your CEL light and I would worry about that last.
So now that that's out of the way, why did you change your coils? And what brand spark plugs did you use?
Last edited by bumpypickle; 05-28-2016 at 01:51 PM.
That's not a hose (although there is a breather hose in the area not seen in your pic) what you are referring to is an electric plug and it plugs into your stock intake I believe it goes somewhere on the outside of the airfilter housing, into your stock intake for 95-96 and in the snorkel for 97-99(?). It affects pretty much nothing except for illuminating your CEL light and I would worry about that last.
So now that that's out of the way, why did you change your coils? And what brand spark plugs did you use?
Bought it for under $500, it had been neglected badly and sat for the last 10 months. It started well and switched gears smoothly but it had issues on and off when you accelerated, badly at times. I went to change just the knock sensor and the plugs and found oil in 2 plugs in the rear. At that point I replaced all the seals on the head gaskets both front and back, I replaced the coils because they looked ancient and was basically giving it a face lift.
I used NGK plugs in her. Trying to figure out why it had that original issue but it did start up and now after replacing the coils, plugs, seals and knock sensor I have a crank but no start. Seems odd to me.
Also make sure everything is connected and make sure your maf is connected. Is your CEL on? And what are the codes?
All is connected, I checked probably 50 times which is why I had no clue what in the world this loose connector was
The CEL was on when it was starting up, was hoping it was due to the knock sensor which was also old as dirt. Not sure if it come on now when the car starts or not because she wont.
Bought it for under $500, it had been neglected badly and sat for the last 10 months. It started well and switched gears smoothly but it had issues on and off when you accelerated, badly at times. I went to change just the knock sensor and the plugs and found oil in 2 plugs in the rear. At that point I replaced all the seals on the head gaskets both front and back, I replaced the coils because they looked ancient and was basically giving it a face lift.
I used NGK plugs in her. Trying to figure out why it had that original issue but it did start up and now after replacing the coils, plugs, seals and knock sensor I have a crank but no start. Seems odd to me.
The coils should be fine. I wouldn't touch one unless you have suspicion that one isn't working or get a misfire. Did you try putting the old ones back in? Did you get oem coils? Some have had problems with certain new brands and some haven't but might as well swap em back out and see.
Originally Posted by Michaeldillon20
All is connected, I checked probably 50 times which is why I had no clue what in the world this loose connector was
The CEL was on when it was starting up, was hoping it was due to the knock sensor which was also old as dirt. Not sure if it come on now when the car starts or not because she wont.
Yes the CEL will be active when not started but car powered on. If you dont have a code reader there is a method to read the codes through a screw on the ecu ( i thinnk its the ecu) by the gas pedal, behind a panel which is secured by 2 clips. It is a very easy proccess and there is a how to in the stickies and a even better video on youtube from user pmohr
Last edited by bumpypickle; 05-28-2016 at 02:42 PM.
That electrical connector is for an electric front motor mount you probably don't have.
Camshaft position sensor (on outer timing cover) plugged back in?
That electrical connector is for an electric front motor mount you probably don't have.
Camshaft position sensor (on outer timing cover) plugged back in?
I literally see no place for it to plug in so it must be for something the car does not have.
Not sure. Now it stopped even cranking last night, it is throwing no codes at me, I get 0505 which means all clear haha I am about ready to throw the towel in on it.
May try that, out of money for it at the moment sadly so will have to wait
Well, I pulled the starter today but no funds to replace it yet. Car has 195,000 miles and the starter is a remanufactured one so no idea when that was installed.
Well, I pulled the starter today but no funds to replace it yet. Car has 195,000 miles and the starter is a remanufactured one so no idea when that was installed.
Did you test the starter? will do it for free at the auto store.
It may just be it looks like. Pulled it and hooked up to my battery and tested it. Spins great but the gear never pops out so may be a bad solanoid on my starter
Did you test the starter? will do it for free at the auto store.
Yup just a little bit ago. Hooked it up to the battery for a test. It spins great but the gear never pops it out. Looks like at least one issue may be a bad solanoid on the starter. Tried to tap with hammer to wake it up but still only spins and never pops out all the way.
It may just be it looks like. Pulled it and hooked up to my battery and tested it. Spins great but the gear never pops out so may be a bad solanoid on my starter
Depending on how you connected wires to the starter determines whether the starter gear pops out or not. If you jumpered power to the big bolt, the starter motor will spin, but this method does not energize the solenoid and the gear will not come out.
If you jumpered power to the thin wire, this will energize the starter solenoid. The starter solenoid does 2 things - close electrical contacts to make the starter motor spin AND mechanically thrust the starter gear out. For the solenoid to close the electrical contacts and not thrust the starter gear out, the arm between the solenoid and the gear would have to be broken.
Depending on how you connected wires to the starter determines whether the starter gear pops out or not. If you jumpered power to the big bolt, the starter motor will spin, but this method does not energize the solenoid and the gear will not come out.
If you jumpered power to the thin wire, this will energize the starter solenoid. The starter solenoid does 2 things - close electrical contacts to make the starter motor spin AND mechanically thrust the starter gear out. For the solenoid to close the electrical contacts and not thrust the starter gear out, the arm between the solenoid and the gear would have to be broken.
Sigh. I am at such a loss at to why it will not start it is making me nuts. It could be 10 differnet things and trying to pin point what it is without replacing everything
Sigh. I am at such a loss at to why it will not start it is making me nuts. It could be 10 differnet things and trying to pin point what it is without replacing everything
Damn you were right. Hooked it to the small wire and the gear popped out. Back to square one of why it will not start.
Damn you were right. Hooked it to the small wire and the gear popped out. Back to square one of why it will not start.
Thinking maybe the fuel pump has died. When I have the wife turn the power on and i have my ear almost shoved in the gas tank I dont hear the pump engaging at all. The original issue with the car was also horrible acceleration especially after stopping at a light and would get worse the longer distance I drove it. From what I understand that is a possible symptom of a bad fuel pump. Had the starter tested also at auto parts store just for confirmation it passed so I put it back on the car.
Depending on how you connected wires to the starter determines whether the starter gear pops out or not. If you jumpered power to the big bolt, the starter motor will spin, but this method does not energize the solenoid and the gear will not come out.
If you jumpered power to the thin wire, this will energize the starter solenoid. The starter solenoid does 2 things - close electrical contacts to make the starter motor spin AND mechanically thrust the starter gear out. For the solenoid to close the electrical contacts and not thrust the starter gear out, the arm between the solenoid and the gear would have to be broken.
The things you find when you buy a 20 year old car that was neglected. First I found a socket just hanging out down in the engine bay. Now, I just removed the fuel pump and inside the fuel tank floating about in the fuel a shop wrag, literally in the fuel hanging out. Smh
Thinking maybe the fuel pump has died. When I have the wife turn the power on and i have my ear almost shoved in the gas tank I dont hear the pump engaging at all. The original issue with the car was also horrible acceleration especially after stopping at a light and would get worse the longer distance I drove it. From what I understand that is a possible symptom of a bad fuel pump. Had the starter tested also at auto parts store just for confirmation it passed so I put it back on the car.
The fuel pumps in these cars so often get replaced unnecessarily. The fact that you don't hear it may be because it is not supposed to be running. Basically put, if the engine isn't running, the fuel pump does not run.
The way Nissan designed the circuit is that when you first turn the ignition key on, the fuel pump will run for about a second to pressurize the fuel rails and then shut off. This is enough to start the engine. Once the fuel lines are pressurized, turning the ignition key on a second time runs the pump but you won't hear it because it can't pump more fuel into an already pressurized system. In order for the fuel pump to keep running, the ECU has to detect pulses from the crankshaft flywheel sensor CKPS(POS).
The main purpose of this crankshaft sensor is to send timing pulses so that the ECU can fire the fuel injectors and ignition coils. A bad crankshaft sensor CKPS(POS) is the #1 cause of "engine cranks but won't start".
If you want to test the fuel pump, hook up a pressure gauge.
The things you find when you buy a 20 year old car that was neglected. First I found a socket just hanging out down in the engine bay. Now, I just removed the fuel pump and inside the fuel tank floating about in the fuel a shop wrag, literally in the fuel hanging out. Smh
The fuel pumps in these cars so often get replaced unnecessarily. The fact that you don't hear it may be because it is not supposed to be running. Basically put, if the engine isn't running, the fuel pump does not run.
The way Nissan designed the circuit is that when you first turn the ignition key on, the fuel pump will run for about a second to pressurize the fuel rails and then shut off. This is enough to start the engine. Once the fuel lines are pressurized, turning the ignition key on a second time runs the pump but you won't hear it because it can't pump more fuel into an already pressurized system. In order for the fuel pump to keep running, the ECU has to detect pulses from the crankshaft flywheel sensor CKPS(POS).
The main purpose of this crankshaft sensor is to send timing pulses so that the ECU can fire the fuel injectors and ignition coils. A bad crankshaft sensor CKPS(POS) is the #1 cause of "engine cranks but won't start".
If you want to test the fuel pump, hook up a pressure gauge.
So we have two on this vehicle. I removed the one down by the oil filter and man was it caked in all sorts of nasty. Going to remove and check out the one on the left side later today. Which would be the more likely culprit if either is more a suspect? I can barely afford one new sensor right now let alone two
Don't buy new sensors. Clean the old ones by spraying them with MAF cleaner or electrical cleaner. That might do the trick. If they are dirty, the crank can't read them. If it still wont start, make sure the wire connections are good. They get hit with road debris down there and take some abuse. They don't always throw codes. I had start problems with no codes, but cleaning the sensors fixed my problem.
It should be obvious to all of us that the shop towel was blocking fuel from reaching the fuel pump. It acts just like a clogged filter.
Provides enough to idle, but not enough to run at speed.
Mystery solved.
I read about a small commuter airplane having the same issue.
It should be obvious to all of us that the shop towel was blocking fuel from reaching the fuel pump. It acts just like a clogged filter.
Provides enough to idle, but not enough to run at speed.
Mystery solved.
I read about a small commuter airplane having the same issue.
That rag no doubt weakened the fuel pump. As Dennis stated earlier test the fuel pressure first. Various members including myself had to recently replace their weak fuel pump.
It should be obvious to all of us that the shop towel was blocking fuel from reaching the fuel pump. It acts just like a clogged filter.
Provides enough to idle, but not enough to run at speed.
Mystery solved.
I read about a small commuter airplane having the same issue.
I am hoping that was the cause of the no start as well as the original issue of horrible acceleration when I bought it. I only drove it twice, once to register it, than began the work on it. My guess also is that the towel was hampering the flow of fuel when I bought it and than when I did not start it for about a week maybe settled in a place that was filly blocking the flow.
I removed both Crank sensors as well today and they were incredibly dirty so I cleaned them and will put everything back together tomorrow and hopefully she will start up for me now.
I'm thinking that the rag would float in the gas. Sometimes it floated free of the pump, and all was well. As the gas level came down, it could be sucked onto the pump, creating low fuel flow.
After a pot hole, it might float free.
If the car was shut off or stalled, the rag would float free, until uit was sucked towards the pump again.
I'm thinking that the rag would float in the gas. Sometimes it floated free of the pump, and all was well. As the gas level came down, it could be sucked onto the pump, creating low fuel flow.
After a pot hole, it might float free.
If the car was shut off or stalled, the rag would float free, until uit was sucked towards the pump again.
Something like that does seem a guessing game yes haha I have a new pump coming tomorrow regardless, and I have cleaned a bunch of the sensors now, the MAF, boost, cam and crankshaft sensors. Once put back togeher hoping it starts up again ok.
Seems the sensors need replacing eventually anyway.
No one imagined a floating shop rag might be the cause.
Yes, might as well replace the fuel pump since you are there anyway.
Best of luck to you.
Just as an FYI if you plan to purchase a new fp, they aren't exactly cheap. I paid well over $100 at advance for mine, and it's still sitting in my trunk unused, because it turned out that it wasn't the issue for me. If you're strapped for cash I can ship it to you, $40, including shipping costs.
PS - clean the crankshaft sensor under the idler, and harness, and again after each oil change. When you change the filter, the oil spills all over the harness and causes major gunk buildup. Also, double check and make sure all your grounds are clean and have a good solid contact.
Also, double check and make sure all your grounds are clean and have a good solid contact.
+++1 My positive battery terminal cracked in half and although it was the easiest place to check it was the last place I looked lol. I replaced it with a new terminal end. That also got me checking my grounds and I didn't like what I saw so I purchased a grounding kit from shinjiduo. Still need to put it on and clean existing grounds though...
05-28-2016, 12:25 PM
