99 maxima will not start
08-17-2016, 03:05 PM
#1
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99 maxima will not start
I have a 99 gxe Maxima automatic. Recently, after a full day of driving around, I came out to start my car and.... Nothing. At first I thought it was my starter so I switched that out with another maxima my brother has. Nothing. And his started fine with my starter. So out came the multimeter. I test each of the following things:
Ignition switch: works
Starter: works
Park neutral safety: bypassed the relay and still no start.
NATS: no security light and usually that would still allow cranking.
So I checked all my fuses and everything seems to be fine and I even went so far as to turn the key on and jump the starter from the battery. The car still would not turn over. It cranked when doing this but it seemed like the injectors were not firing. Any ideas as to what it could be? At this point I'm thinking ECU but there are no CEL codes and i don't have a Consult to test the ECU or TCM. Any advice on further testing would be fantastic. Thanks in advance.
Ignition switch: works
Starter: works
Park neutral safety: bypassed the relay and still no start.
NATS: no security light and usually that would still allow cranking.
So I checked all my fuses and everything seems to be fine and I even went so far as to turn the key on and jump the starter from the battery. The car still would not turn over. It cranked when doing this but it seemed like the injectors were not firing. Any ideas as to what it could be? At this point I'm thinking ECU but there are no CEL codes and i don't have a Consult to test the ECU or TCM. Any advice on further testing would be fantastic. Thanks in advance.
08-18-2016, 09:01 AM
#2
So the the starter doesn't crank the engine over.
If you have a good working starter like you say and a good ignition switch like you say and you bypassed the inhibit/park-neutral relay like you say and it still does not crank over, then you either have a broken wire somewhere or you didn't properly test something.
You need to break out the voltmeter again and so some double checking. Have everything together and connected, but have the air intake box off so you can access the starter. Put the voltmeter lead on the starter solenoid trigger wire, the skinny little wire. Have someone turn the ignition switch to start and see if you have 12 volts to the starter solenoid.
Assuming you will not, remove the inhibit/park-neutral relay and put the voltmeter lead in pin 6 of the relay socket. I don't think that the relay socket has pin numbers in it, but the bottom of the relay does. Tiny little numbers. Do not go by the little diagram in the top of the relay. Have someone turn the ignition switch to start and see if you have 12 volts to pin 6.
No voltage at pin 6 means either the wire between the relay and the ignition switch is broken or the ignition switch is bad.
12 volts at pin 6 means that either the relay is bad, the relay is not being energized, or that the wire from the relay to the starter solenoid is broken.
To check if the relay is the problem, 2 tests are needed. First, put a jumper wire in the relay socket from pin 6 to pin 7 and see if the starter will crank the engine over. If no, then check wire continuity from relay pin 7 to the starter solenoid. If the starter cranks the engine, remove jumper from the relay socket (if you want to, but I would). Put the voltmeter lead in pin 1 of the relay socket and have someone turn the ignition switch to start and see if you have 12 volts to pin 1. If yes, either the relay is bad or the park/neutral switch on the transmission is bad or the wire between the relay pin 2 and the transmission park neutral switch is broken.
There are more things, but try these and let me know.
If you have a good working starter like you say and a good ignition switch like you say and you bypassed the inhibit/park-neutral relay like you say and it still does not crank over, then you either have a broken wire somewhere or you didn't properly test something.
You need to break out the voltmeter again and so some double checking. Have everything together and connected, but have the air intake box off so you can access the starter. Put the voltmeter lead on the starter solenoid trigger wire, the skinny little wire. Have someone turn the ignition switch to start and see if you have 12 volts to the starter solenoid.
Assuming you will not, remove the inhibit/park-neutral relay and put the voltmeter lead in pin 6 of the relay socket. I don't think that the relay socket has pin numbers in it, but the bottom of the relay does. Tiny little numbers. Do not go by the little diagram in the top of the relay. Have someone turn the ignition switch to start and see if you have 12 volts to pin 6.
No voltage at pin 6 means either the wire between the relay and the ignition switch is broken or the ignition switch is bad.
12 volts at pin 6 means that either the relay is bad, the relay is not being energized, or that the wire from the relay to the starter solenoid is broken.
To check if the relay is the problem, 2 tests are needed. First, put a jumper wire in the relay socket from pin 6 to pin 7 and see if the starter will crank the engine over. If no, then check wire continuity from relay pin 7 to the starter solenoid. If the starter cranks the engine, remove jumper from the relay socket (if you want to, but I would). Put the voltmeter lead in pin 1 of the relay socket and have someone turn the ignition switch to start and see if you have 12 volts to pin 1. If yes, either the relay is bad or the park/neutral switch on the transmission is bad or the wire between the relay pin 2 and the transmission park neutral switch is broken.
There are more things, but try these and let me know.
08-18-2016, 09:49 AM
#3
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So the the starter doesn't crank the engine over.
If you have a good working starter like you say and a good ignition switch like you say and you bypassed the inhibit/park-neutral relay like you say and it still does not crank over, then you either have a broken wire somewhere or you didn't properly test something.
You need to break out the voltmeter again and so some double checking. Have everything together and connected, but have the air intake box off so you can access the starter. Put the voltmeter lead on the starter solenoid trigger wire, the skinny little wire. Have someone turn the ignition switch to start and see if you have 12 volts to the starter solenoid.
Assuming you will not, remove the inhibit/park-neutral relay and put the voltmeter lead in pin 6 of the relay socket. I don't think that the relay socket has pin numbers in it, but the bottom of the relay does. Tiny little numbers. Do not go by the little diagram in the top of the relay. Have someone turn the ignition switch to start and see if you have 12 volts to pin 6.
No voltage at pin 6 means either the wire between the relay and the ignition switch is broken or the ignition switch is bad.
12 volts at pin 6 means that either the relay is bad, the relay is not being energized, or that the wire from the relay to the starter solenoid is broken.
To check if the relay is the problem, 2 tests are needed. First, put a jumper wire in the relay socket from pin 6 to pin 7 and see if the starter will crank the engine over. If no, then check wire continuity from relay pin 7 to the starter solenoid. If the starter cranks the engine, remove jumper from the relay socket (if you want to, but I would). Put the voltmeter lead in pin 1 of the relay socket and have someone turn the ignition switch to start and see if you have 12 volts to pin 1. If yes, either the relay is bad or the park/neutral switch on the transmission is bad or the wire between the relay pin 2 and the transmission park neutral switch is broken.
There are more things, but try these and let me know.
If you have a good working starter like you say and a good ignition switch like you say and you bypassed the inhibit/park-neutral relay like you say and it still does not crank over, then you either have a broken wire somewhere or you didn't properly test something.
You need to break out the voltmeter again and so some double checking. Have everything together and connected, but have the air intake box off so you can access the starter. Put the voltmeter lead on the starter solenoid trigger wire, the skinny little wire. Have someone turn the ignition switch to start and see if you have 12 volts to the starter solenoid.
Assuming you will not, remove the inhibit/park-neutral relay and put the voltmeter lead in pin 6 of the relay socket. I don't think that the relay socket has pin numbers in it, but the bottom of the relay does. Tiny little numbers. Do not go by the little diagram in the top of the relay. Have someone turn the ignition switch to start and see if you have 12 volts to pin 6.
No voltage at pin 6 means either the wire between the relay and the ignition switch is broken or the ignition switch is bad.
12 volts at pin 6 means that either the relay is bad, the relay is not being energized, or that the wire from the relay to the starter solenoid is broken.
To check if the relay is the problem, 2 tests are needed. First, put a jumper wire in the relay socket from pin 6 to pin 7 and see if the starter will crank the engine over. If no, then check wire continuity from relay pin 7 to the starter solenoid. If the starter cranks the engine, remove jumper from the relay socket (if you want to, but I would). Put the voltmeter lead in pin 1 of the relay socket and have someone turn the ignition switch to start and see if you have 12 volts to pin 1. If yes, either the relay is bad or the park/neutral switch on the transmission is bad or the wire between the relay pin 2 and the transmission park neutral switch is broken.
There are more things, but try these and let me know.
Starter wire (12 v for some reason)
Pin 6 (12 v)
Continuity between pin 7 and starter is fine,
Jumping pins 6 and 7, engine still did not crank
Pin 1 (12v)
But wouldn't jumping pin 6 and 7 make it so that I could start even with pin 2 and the neutral switch being bad?
And I know it isn't a starter because I've already replaced it with a working on. And if it was neutral than I wouldn't get voltage at the solenoid. (right?) I've also tried turning the key to the on position, and manually jumping the starter. It cranks, but the engine will not start. (no injector pulse I guess) So how come I get Voltage everywhere but nothing happens anywhere?
Last edited by Lordmonk3y; 08-18-2016 at 10:48 AM.
08-18-2016, 01:57 PM
#4
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It's also worth mentioning I have a viper remote start system. It was bypassed to test if it was the cause and still nothing. I also bypassed it for all the other tests and the all came up the same way. I'm honestly at a loss for ideas on this.
08-18-2016, 07:45 PM
#5
Now that you bring the Viper into the picture, everything changes. I don't know how the Viper works, whether it disables the fuel injectors or the ignition coils or both.
The starter circuit as designed by Nissan is very basic and simple. The ignition switch sends 12 volts to a set of relay contacts. When the relay is energized, the contacts close and the 12 volts goes to the starter solenoid trigger wire. The transmission park/neutral switch is responsible for allowing the relay to energize, but when you put a jumper in the relay socket from pin 6 to pin 7, you have just created a circuit direct from the ignition switch to the starter.
I cannot understand how you can have 12 volts going to the solenoid trigger wire and not have the starter cranking. It is technically possible, though. It is not voltage that makes the starter solenoid work, it is electrical current (amperes or amps). Usually when you have voltage, you will have current, but electrically it is possible to have voltage and no current flowing.
Try this - remove the inhibit/park-neutral relay. Put a jumper wire in pin 7 of the relay socket and jumper it to the battery. When you touch the wire to the battery, you should get a moderate spark and the starter should be cranking the engine. If this doesn't work, unplug the starter solenoid trigger wire and jumper 12 volts from the battery to the trigger wire.
If jumpering 12 volts directly to the trigger wire doesn't work, get some car booster cables. Connect a booster cable from the battery negative terminal and the other end to either the starter housing or the transmission bell housing near the starter. Then try the starter.
The starter circuit as designed by Nissan is very basic and simple. The ignition switch sends 12 volts to a set of relay contacts. When the relay is energized, the contacts close and the 12 volts goes to the starter solenoid trigger wire. The transmission park/neutral switch is responsible for allowing the relay to energize, but when you put a jumper in the relay socket from pin 6 to pin 7, you have just created a circuit direct from the ignition switch to the starter.
I cannot understand how you can have 12 volts going to the solenoid trigger wire and not have the starter cranking. It is technically possible, though. It is not voltage that makes the starter solenoid work, it is electrical current (amperes or amps). Usually when you have voltage, you will have current, but electrically it is possible to have voltage and no current flowing.
Try this - remove the inhibit/park-neutral relay. Put a jumper wire in pin 7 of the relay socket and jumper it to the battery. When you touch the wire to the battery, you should get a moderate spark and the starter should be cranking the engine. If this doesn't work, unplug the starter solenoid trigger wire and jumper 12 volts from the battery to the trigger wire.
If jumpering 12 volts directly to the trigger wire doesn't work, get some car booster cables. Connect a booster cable from the battery negative terminal and the other end to either the starter housing or the transmission bell housing near the starter. Then try the starter.
08-18-2016, 08:04 PM
#6
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Now that you bring the Viper into the picture, everything changes. I don't know how the Viper works, whether it disables the fuel injectors or the ignition coils or both.
The starter circuit as designed by Nissan is very basic and simple. The ignition switch sends 12 volts to a set of relay contacts. When the relay is energized, the contacts close and the 12 volts goes to the starter solenoid trigger wire. The transmission park/neutral switch is responsible for allowing the relay to energize, but when you put a jumper in the relay socket from pin 6 to pin 7, you have just created a circuit direct from the ignition switch to the starter.
I cannot understand how you can have 12 volts going to the solenoid trigger wire and not have the starter cranking. It is technically possible, though. It is not voltage that makes the starter solenoid work, it is electrical current (amperes or amps). Usually when you have voltage, you will have current, but electrically it is possible to have voltage and no current flowing.
Try this - remove the inhibit/park-neutral relay. Put a jumper wire in pin 7 of the relay socket and jumper it to the battery. When you touch the wire to the battery, you should get a moderate spark and the starter should be cranking the engine. If this doesn't work, unplug the starter solenoid trigger wire and jumper 12 volts from the battery to the trigger wire.
If jumpering 12 volts directly to the trigger wire doesn't work, get some car booster cables. Connect a booster cable from the battery negative terminal and the other end to either the starter housing or the transmission bell housing near the starter. Then try the starter.
The starter circuit as designed by Nissan is very basic and simple. The ignition switch sends 12 volts to a set of relay contacts. When the relay is energized, the contacts close and the 12 volts goes to the starter solenoid trigger wire. The transmission park/neutral switch is responsible for allowing the relay to energize, but when you put a jumper in the relay socket from pin 6 to pin 7, you have just created a circuit direct from the ignition switch to the starter.
I cannot understand how you can have 12 volts going to the solenoid trigger wire and not have the starter cranking. It is technically possible, though. It is not voltage that makes the starter solenoid work, it is electrical current (amperes or amps). Usually when you have voltage, you will have current, but electrically it is possible to have voltage and no current flowing.
Try this - remove the inhibit/park-neutral relay. Put a jumper wire in pin 7 of the relay socket and jumper it to the battery. When you touch the wire to the battery, you should get a moderate spark and the starter should be cranking the engine. If this doesn't work, unplug the starter solenoid trigger wire and jumper 12 volts from the battery to the trigger wire.
If jumpering 12 volts directly to the trigger wire doesn't work, get some car booster cables. Connect a booster cable from the battery negative terminal and the other end to either the starter housing or the transmission bell housing near the starter. Then try the starter.
The viper system only touches ignition as far as engine is concerned. I did get the engine to crank when jumping the starter but it still didn't start. Also adding jumper cables to bell housing for better ground didn't help either.
Last edited by Lordmonk3y; 08-18-2016 at 08:39 PM.
08-18-2016, 11:07 PM
#7
On a working Maxima, if you turn the ignition switch on and go under the hood and jump the starter to make the engine crank over, it will not start. This is because the ECU does not get a signal from the ignition switch. It is called the START signal on pin 25. The ignition switch has to be in the start position to send the signal to the ECU.
At this point I don't know what to tell you. I'm baffled.
At this point I don't know what to tell you. I'm baffled.
08-18-2016, 11:26 PM
#8
when ever you mess with wiring on a maxima, there's always an issue, especially with a 99 max. i've seen countless threads in which it starts, " my 99 max won't start " really tough year for the 4th gen. trace every wire, especially the grounds and make sure there's nothing loose or disconnected. run a scan on the ecu and see if something is hiding and not throwing a code. gl
08-19-2016, 08:21 AM
#9
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Well I got it started. Out of desperation I replaced the starter. It kicked but didn't quite catch so I replaced the battery and it worked. Funny thing was the battery tested fine... And my contacts and cables are fine.... So what it looks like is that my battery was JUST old enough to not kick on that starter that was JUST close enough to going out. Talk about a gremlin of a combination. Weird thing is, jumping from another car and battery didn't help before, and the original starter still starts a 96 maxima that I have laying around.... Electrons are dumb. Anyway, thanks everyone for your replies. I really appreciate all the help and knowledge you guys have. Hope this thread can help someone else solve their issue sooner.
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