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My car doesnt start fast. Sometimes after driving the first time around and when I return to turn it on it turns over like for 10 seconds before it starts. Sometimes it skips a crank or 2 in the process then it still starts. It fires up quick when cold. But rarely it doesn't. Maybe cause it was hot outside. It feels like it starts quicker when car is cold. Is this starter issue? Since it skips a crank or 2 sometimes? Or main relay problems? I do have a code in my check engine light. 1-11 after testing it with screwdriver method. If it's starter I can maybe easily change it myself.
I have a new battery in there also. It didn't do this with new battery at first. I changed battery about a month and a half ago. I started having this problems for 2 weeks or 3 so far already. Cables are corroded but guy put some spray on it when he changed battery. Was my car insurance road side assistance
Update: I drove somewhere and came back home. I tried to start it and it didn't even turn the engine over. I waited 20 minutes then it started in about 10 seconds, but now it's shaking at idle. Kind of shaking like it needs coal pack, but no error showed in my check engine diagnose like last time when I replaced coal pack 3. What could it be?
You might have multiple problems, but when the starter doesn't crank the engine over or stops cranking in the middle, you are dealing with either a starter or battery problem. The engine running rough is something else.
Inspect the battery cables where the wires go into the battery terminal. They get corroded in the connection.
Have the battery load tested.
Then check the starter. If you have it tested by a place Like Autozone, you have only wasted you time. Theses starters have what is called a planetary gear set built into them and when the lubrication dries up, the gears bind. This slows the cranking speed that needs to be 350 rpm. Unfortunately, there are not many places that test a starter under load, which is the way it needs to be done. So to figure out if this is the problem, you can take the starter apart and see if the grease for the gears is ok or not. Also, the brushes in the motor could be wearing out and not making good contact. The electrical contact in the starter solenoid could be burned and not providing a good contact.
But in lieu of getting a thorough, comprehensive testing of the starter - if the battery cables are good and the battery itself is good, replace the starter.
You might have multiple problems, but when the starter doesn't crank the engine over or stops cranking in the middle, you are dealing with either a starter or battery problem. The engine running rough is something else.
Inspect the battery cables where the wires go into the battery terminal. They get corroded in the connection.
Have the battery load tested.
Then check the starter. If you have it tested by a place Like Autozone, you have only wasted you time. Theses starters have what is called a planetary gear set built into them and when the lubrication dries up, the gears bind. This slows the cranking speed that needs to be 350 rpm. Unfortunately, there are not many places that test a starter under load, which is the way it needs to be done. So to figure out if this is the problem, you can take the starter apart and see if the grease for the gears is ok or not. Also, the brushes in the motor could be wearing out and not making good contact. The electrical contact in the starter solenoid could be burned and not providing a good contact.
But in lieu of getting a thorough, comprehensive testing of the starter - if the battery cables are good and the battery itself is good, replace the starter.
IT reads a 7-1 code for multiple cylinder misfire now.
YES, when it finally started it got a new code. 7-1 and it is multiple cylinder misfire. It's not telling me a specific coil pack to replace. Car is idling rough now
YES, when it finally started it got a new code. 7-1 and it is multiple cylinder misfire. It's not telling me a specific coil pack to replace. Car is idling rough now
Replace the coil packs. It will do you justice. If you're still having problems, give your injectors a look
Mulitpe misfire code is gonna be tough. If you read through the FSM, you basically are on a wild goose chase. Before we start diagnosing, when was the last time you did a tuneup per the forum how-to's? Im talking: plugs, ECTS, fuel filter, air filter, PCV, cleaned TB and MAF. Get these done and check for any vacuum or air leaks as well.
On my max i changed the tranny side crank sensor. Pull it and see how dirty it is. If its crapped, then swap it out.
Take a look at the camshaft sensor too and see how dirty it is. If is crapped, then swap it out.
Ebay or Autozone is your friend. If none of that works, then you gotta start looking at replacing coils and injectors.
Download the FSM and start reading up on multiple misfire codes. What year is your max? the 1999s are notorious for coil packs failing prematurely.
Mulitpe misfire code is gonna be tough. If you read through the FSM, you basically are on a wild goose chase. Before we start diagnosing, when was the last time you did a tuneup per the forum how-to's? Im talking: plugs, ECTS, fuel filter, air filter, PCV, cleaned TB and MAF. Get these done and check for any vacuum or air leaks as well.
On my max i changed the tranny side crank sensor. Pull it and see how dirty it is. If its crapped, then swap it out.
Take a look at the camshaft sensor too and see how dirty it is. If is crapped, then swap it out.
Ebay or Autozone is your friend. If none of that works, then you gotta start looking at replacing coils and injectors.
Download the FSM and start reading up on multiple misfire codes. What year is your max? the 1999s are notorious for coil packs failing prematurely.
IT was a coincidence that one of my coils went bad, it wasn't anything to do with starting. I replaced coil 6. I changed plugs last year. Double platinum boshes. 2 coils are new, but the rest are still from 1998 I believe. It says nissan on them. Currently check engine code is 1-11 something to do with evap flow system. I swapped out MAF last year also with a used eBay one and it's good. Throttle body I sprayed it last year as well. Where's that cam shafts sensor? I've been driving this car alot lately and maybe that's why it has starting issue by turning it on and off. When car is cold it fires up fast. Not when it's warm though
Test your engine coolant temperature sensor with an ohm meter when your engine is cold. Should read 2.1-2.9 kohms. Hard warm starts sound like your ects. If not, well you didn't lose anything by testing.
Right now I'm waiting on a tow truck. Previously in past 2 weeks my car took so long to start, till just 3 days ago that starting issue blew out coil pack cylinder 6. I took it to a mechanic first because it said random misfire on my check engine light. I paid 105 for diagnostic. Diagnostic says they need to change all plus, the coil pack, and do a fuel cleaning. I asked if the coil is the starting problem and guy says yes. I replaced coil 6 myself for 66$ instead of their ridiculous 185.00 plus labor for just 1 stupid coil. It takes only 5 minutes or less to replace it. Tonight coil 2 went out I THINK THIS STARTING ISSUE IS BLOWING OUT ALL MY COIL PACKS ONE BY ONE. BUT ONLY BLOWING THE VERY OLD NISSAN ONES THAT ARE PROBABLY 222,000 MILES. I went to get food, car gave me hard time to start again. It started. I went to autozone amd replaced coil 2. I l am now in parking lot waiting on tow truck cause the engine turned over very weak and didn't start car. Now when I turn key, it doesn't make any sound. My roadside assistance tried to jump start car and nothing. Now waiting on tow. What is the problem? It has code 1-11 which is evap flow system. Will a fuel cleaning from that mechanic help it start again? I need to know cause if it's not that I'll need to get another car. SPARK PLUGS I CHANGED MYSELF LAST YEAR WITH DOUBLE PLATINUM BOSCH. So I doubt it needs the tune up. The shop was going to charge 90$ for plugs and the expensive labor. The whole quote was 790.00. I can do 2/3 of that work myself. Except fuel cleaning and those coil pack boots they were gonna charge for too. Is it a starter problem? My battery is brand new.
So far, every penny you have spent so far has been on everything except your problem.
Firstly, a starting problem will not cause a coil pack to fail. When a coil pack fails, it is because it has reached the end of its life. Period. Not because of a starting problem. These engines will start on 3 cylinders if everything else is OK.
You said "cause the engine turned over very weak and didn't start car. Now when I turn key, it doesn't make any sound." This sounds like a bad battery. At first it was weak and now no sound says it is dead.
What do you mean by nothing happened when they tried to jump start the car? No cranking, silence?
You could have multiple problems here. Is the battery dead because of a bad alternator? In addition, the starter may be bad.
It sounds like you are in a panic mode. Slow down and take a breath. Then give us some more details.
So far, every penny you have spent so far has been on everything except your problem.
Firstly, a starting problem will not cause a coil pack to fail. When a coil pack fails, it is because it has reached the end of its life. Period. Not because of a starting problem. These engines will start on 3 cylinders if everything else is OK.
You said "cause the engine turned over very weak and didn't start car. Now when I turn key, it doesn't make any sound." This sounds like a bad battery. At first it was weak and now no sound says it is dead.
What do you mean by nothing happened when they tried to jump start the car? No cranking, silence?
You could have multiple problems here. Is the battery dead because of a bad alternator? In addition, the starter may be bad.
It sounds like you are in a panic mode. Slow down and take a breath. Then give us some more details.
Well it did seem like it is blowing out the coils cause of all the struggling it had when car was being started. After it starts, then it shakes and misfire on cylinder 6 then 2. Those coils are original. We will just leave it at it was just a coincidence that that went out too. Just my bad luck.
Anyway, yes, still silence when I turn the key. Battery is good, it's brand new. The roadside assistance man said it is not the battery it's another issue. Lights still turn on bright. My alternator I replaced 1 year ago.
One of the many lessons to learn in repairing any kind of product is that you should NEVER rule out a part because is is new. You will end up chasing your tail because of that belief. Check everything.
I am not denying that you have a bad coil or 2. Multiple problems. But the engine will start on 3 cylinders. I would focus on the starting problem first.
Here are some things for you to check. Remove the air filter box from the car. Get your voltmeter and refer to the photo above. Place the voltmeter probe on the spot labeled Test Point A. Try and start the car. The voltmeter should show 12 volts.
If no voltage, the problem is somewhere between the ignition switch and the starter.
If voltage and no cranking, the starter is bad.
This and more information is from a 5th gen post titled Maxima Won't Crank, No Start Thread. Give it a read and hopefully it will help you.
This was a long-time problem with my '95 Maxima and I can tell you that I didn't fix it all at once.
Ultimately, the biggest obstacle was the grounding of the Crank Position Sensor (CPS) which ultimately takes place *through* the transmission's contact with the engine block.
Adding a grounding kit (I made my own) was the first encouraging thing I had tried, after first testing my CPS with a multimeter to make sure it was indeed working as expected. The grounding kit noticeably improved the number of cranking sessions it took to start the engine.
It wasn't until I had my clutch replaced and I asked the mechanics to clean the edge of the bell-housing that my starting returned to "new". It was a completely different world.
The thing I take away from this is that if your starter is pulling all the amps from your battery, a poor ground to your sensors will effectively feed noise to your ECU making it fire all kinds of false errors which can lead you to replace all kinds of things which are actually working perfectly.
If in doubt about a sensor, always test it. Or swap it out with one you know is working. I hope this helps! -pc
it could be fuel injectors with broken pintle caps that can over flood the pistons with too much fuel cause the engine hydrolock and causing it not to crank or turnover which will also give you a multiple misfire code as well.
Take a look at your battery terminals. If battery is good and you are not getting power the terminals may be bad. This happened to me on a cold night, my positive or negative forgot which cracked in half and couldn't start
The starter went out, that's why it didn't turn over. Replaced that myself along with coil 2. Now 3 old coils remain. But still has a problem starting sometimes. I put in a fuel cleaning bottle in along with gas tank full
Mine used to do this a lot. If I drove it for a while, stopped for a short time, and tried to start it again it would turn over endlessly and not start for what seemed like forever. I remember thinking several times I was going to be stranded at a gas pump, but it always started eventually.
At some point the problem went away. I kinda forgot it used to do that. It has had a new battery, alternator, and six used coil packs installed in the last two years, but I don't remember anything specific that made it straighten up.
08-25-2016, 12:18 AM
