RealityCheck

Thinking of getting out of the max game. My feelings for this car aren't what it used to be. It's a v6 (I have 2 jobs now, need a 4 cyl), and I have gotten lazy with taking care of it but it is still a champ. KBB values it between 2600 and 2800, but what would you pay for it? I don't have pics currently, but will list pros and cons. Body has 98,000 and engine has nearly 30,000.

CONS:
Has body work spots showing and needs to be painted or plasti dipped. (shaved trunk key hole, fixed rust spot by rear wheel well, and shaved antenna hole.

Hole cut out in the carpet in driver's foot area because there must be a hole in the firewall that leaks water in that very specific spot whenever it rains or you wash the car (no crazy puddles).

Piston rings must not be good? I have major oil blow by (hooked up to a catch can for the longest time) and has to be checked on and dumped out every so often.

Passenger side axle boot has ripped open but put something over it to help prevent grease splatter everywhere.

Front strut springs make squeeky noises because I recently replaced them.

Radiator support is rusted (not a shocker)

Rarely, I get a CEL from the charcoal canister and knock sensor (cheap ebay brand) and I reset it but doesn't come back at all.

Bottom of engine is oily and gross because the camshaft O ring has to be replaced (leaking down side).

One of the serpentine belt pulleys is rattling when engine is warmed up.

PROS:
Engine remanufactured to OEM specs and has nearly 30,000 miles on the motor.
Body only has 98k (on the dash)
Clean Infiniti I35 rims with good tires
Retrofitted headlights
Engine is responsive and runs great, no major CEL problems.
Cold air intake routed to bumper
Oil catch can used since I bought the new engine.
Full exhaust done but is LOUD (not straight piped)
Always kept up with oil changes and often used synthetic.
Radiator fluid is clean (flushed it out this summer).
New front struts and 1.5" drop springs all around (recently done).
Viper alarm with 2 way pager

My overall feeling: Car is kind of a piece of poo but still runs like a beast.

JoshG

We would have to see pics, words are good.. but it wont determine its value. It looks like 3k$ would be reasonable for yours. considering how many miles you have.

RealityCheck

Only 2 I have right now and they are not too recent. My car actually looked clean in this shot, but I don't have the R34's anymore.

mikeymouse1995

somewhere around 3k seems accurate unless you get some younger kid who wants that look, then you might be able to squeeze 3500. GL dude

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

not sure about prices in NY, but here in CA you wouldn't see more than $1,200 for your Max.

JoshG

Thats actually pretty clean... looks sharp.

JvG

Perhaps relativly rust free cars cost more in New York than in Oregon.

Still,

Your car:

Burns oil. (Have you changed your pcv valve)?
Have you had a wet and dry compression check done?
The oil consumprion and the catch can are a Major turn off. Indicates that either the pcv valve needs to be replaced, or the rebuild was not done correctly.

Has suspension noises. While you said that you replaced them, the noise is still there. Another turn off.
Fixing the issue should not be too costly.

The cel is a relatively easy fix, and the third turn off.

The cam shaft o ring is cheap. Fix it. Clean the gross mess with solvent. Turn off # 4.

Loud exhaust might not bother some people, but is turn off # 5.

The rusted radiator support is normal in your area, so might not be a problem .

The serpentine belt noise is yet another turn off.
It is either the tensioner, which is cheap, or the harmonic balancer, which is not.

My take is that the car has low miles, a nice body, and shows major signs of neglect. In Portland, 1500 dollars.
Only because of the low mileage. Otherwise, 1000 dollars.

Basicly, given some love, you could get more money out of it. But that takes time and money.

Since it won't sell for much, consider keeping it as a spare car. It will serve you for long time, or until rust catches up with it.

CS_AR

Automatic or 5-MT?

maxima297

Fellow NY owner. And by that I mean UPSTATE NY owner.

If your car was immaculate, you MIGHT be able to get away with 3k. You say KBB quotes it as less than 3k, so why post it for 3k? That's just silly.

My car, a 97 with 82k miles on her when I got her last January, came with a solid frame, rubber coated underbody, brand new snow tires, and one small rust patch. No leaks, no nothing. It was $1500. Why? Because no NY car that is older than 15 years is going for 3k unless it's a spotless project car. You can get a newer vehicle in better condition than yours for less than what you're trying to go for.

Now, I'm not trying to tell you what to do. But I am gonna tell you that your asking price is too high, unless you get someone who doesn't understand vehicle value. The work that your car needs, makes it worth less than what you're asking for.

Good luck.

Prophecy99

iTrader: (1)

primer gouges are killing any possibility of full sale price

$1500 who wouldn't mind a car w transplanted engine.

JoshG

To be honest if I got $1000-1500 for that car, I would keep it. $1000 usually gets you junk cars that are all beat up, high mileage, etc.. the body is in amazing shape it looks and best of all low mileage.. I would fix the problems it has and figure that out.

JvG

Josh, you are right on.

Unfortunately, our 20 year old cars are not with much money when we want to sell them.

Provided that neglect and deferred maintenance is taken care of, many of these cars have ten years or 100,000 miles of service left in them.

That is why I recommended that the o p keep the car around, and give it the work it deserves.

I know that you had to spend a lot to get your car serviced. But you will get your money's worth out of it for years to come.

These cars are an amazing value for those who respect what the car is, and what it is not.

maxima297

Not to mention the fact that since you live in NY, I'm sure you'll come into contact with wildlife (deer), our top of the line year round road conditions and all the other wonderful drivers on the road *sarcasm*. I know first hand that these cars can take a beating and come out just fine.

I'd fix it up and keep it. Run it into the ground, til the motor is dragging the frame. It's more than worth it.

CS_AR

If you keep it you'll have one great looking station car. Also it's more likely to survive the potholes on roads like the BQE, LIE, and Belt Pkwy.

RealityCheck

Might as well drive this car down to the grave because it's reliable, haven't had any CEL issues with it. She's a beast. As far compression testing goes, I have not done that at all. PCV valve was replaced probably 2 years ago. Gotta fix that. I must do my fuel filter as well! The car does survive pot holes pretty well but good thing the LIE by my location isn't bad at all. I don't live near the city. Last note on price.. yeah totally know that this car isn't worth **** really haha. Would get lucky if I even got 2800 for it.

Icemule

I don't know what big city prices are, but I grew up in Huntington beach Ca. and you would be lucky to get $1200.00 on a good day. I live in Spartanburg Sc now and based on the 2 pictures you showed you might get $1500.00 because you don't have to worry about emissions here. But if you were honest about the problems to the buyer I think your looking at $1200.00. At the end of the day it's a 20 year old car and some parent is going to probably buy it for their kid to learn to drive and ultimately wreck.

Take the other guys advice and keep it as a back up and slowly fix the problems as time and money permit. Or put a crazy price like $3000.00 on it and see if someone bites. Or put $3200.00 on it and put in the add that you will take $1200.00 or $1000.00 down and will take weekly (not monthly) payments. You get the grand and you already got close to what it's worth then the rest is gravy and you might help out a family man or single mother in a bind. Just my 2 cents