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EGR Hardware Cleaning

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Old 10-10-2016, 08:47 PM
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EGR Hardware Cleaning

To prepare for Max IV's mid-life maintenance with new valve cover gaskets, injectors, and EGR hardware cleaning, I found a new technique for washing away rust that leaves metal (e.g. non-aluminium) parts squeaky clean without all of the effort that I previously put into cleaning parts.

Here are some pictures of the finished products below.

EGR tube

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EGR Mount After

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EGR Mount Before

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Surface Rust on EGR Mount

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Dipping the Tube and Mount Hardware

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The Product

I used a 1 to 4 part mix of muratic acid to tap water as directed by the product.

Using a powerful cleaning comes with additional responsibility.

WARNING

1) Do not get any of the acid or solution mix on your skin.
2) Wear eye protection when working with the produce or mix.
3) No not inhale any of the product vapors from around the cleaning bucket.
4) Use a plastic container for dipping the product.

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Last edited by CS_AR; 10-10-2016 at 08:50 PM.
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Old 10-10-2016, 10:17 PM
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Never thought of trying that. Nice tip - thanks.

Muratic acid is also called plumbers acid and swimming pool acid, so it is available at a lot of places.
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Old 10-10-2016, 11:43 PM
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Originally Posted by CS_AR
....
muratic acid......
Awesome stuff. How long do you dip the metal in for, and how can you tell if it's too long?
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Old 10-11-2016, 04:43 AM
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Originally Posted by dwapenyi
Awesome stuff. How long do you dip the metal in for, and how can you tell if it's too long?
Over night seems to work best.

There really is no "too long".

The only step I'd add to Craig's process is that once the dip is complete the parts need to be sealed/protected from further/future corrosion.

I've typically used an over night soak in motor oil.

But with the EGR assembly I'd not recommend that as you don't really want much, let alone a viscous petroleum product, inside the orifice(s) and tubing.

The alternative I've found most effective is this stuff applied to all external surfaces and hardware ...

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Old 10-11-2016, 05:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Turbobink
Over night seems to work best.

There really is no "too long".

The only step I'd add to Craig's process is that once the dip is complete the parts need to be sealed/protected from further/future corrosion.

I've typically used an over night soak in motor oil.

But with the EGR assembly I'd not recommend that as you don't really want much, let alone a viscous petroleum product, inside the orifice(s) and tubing.

The alternative I've found most effective is this stuff applied to all external surfaces and hardware ...

Good point Turbo. I let them soak for roughly 6 to 8 hours while I worked on changing the crankshaft pulley.

To keep the rust from coming right back, I sprayed them with WD40 to keep them sealed after the dip. I will clean, prime, and paint then with header paint before installation.



Here's how the finished parts will look when I'm done. I had some extra EGR parts that I'm getting ready for the Max IV project. I want to be able to work fast once I start that project.

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Old 10-11-2016, 05:32 AM
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Originally Posted by DennisMik
Never thought of trying that. Nice tip - thanks.

Muratic acid is also called plumbers acid and swimming pool acid, so it is available at a lot of places.
+1 Dennis

I got the stuff I used at Ace Hardware. I though about pouring the excess down a shower drain that likes to get clogged. That should open it up.
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Old 10-11-2016, 06:08 AM
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Thanks for the tip on cleaning those rusted metallic parts.

Before the town installed new sewer pipes 2 years ago I had to use plumber's acid every month or so to keep my pipes from clogging. I have 3 gallons remaining so I'll utilize it for cleaning some auto parts.

Earlier this year my 98 went into limp mode due to the misfiring caused by a weak fuel pump. I had to slowly drive it home 16 miles in 2nd gear. The RPM was between 4000 to 5000 so no doubt my EGR tube is full of gunk. When the time arrives I'll clean EGR tube with plumber's acid.

Last edited by jholley; 10-11-2016 at 06:10 AM.
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Old 10-13-2016, 10:39 AM
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That looks awesome. EGR is one thing I didn't DIY. Maybe that's why the issue came back 2 yrs. later.

Well, at least the Maxima's replacement is also Japanese.
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Old 10-13-2016, 11:04 AM
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CS AR, you continue to be friggin' awesome.
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Old 10-13-2016, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by M in KC
CS AR, you continue to be friggin' awesome.
+1

Craig is the (purist) man.
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Old 10-18-2016, 05:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Turbobink
Over night seems to work best.

The alternative I've found most effective is this stuff applied to all external surfaces and hardware ...

I picked up a can of this from Advance on sale last weekend. I like the way the cap holds the sprayer straw. It uses lanolin in the formula. I already started using it to protect tools and parts. A little bit goes a long way.
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