please help before my motor blows up
#42
Just to verify, I take it you have checked and cleaned the rear crankshaft position sensor? It's the one on the bell housing between the engine and transmission. It's accessible from the the front of the vehicle. It works like the one that is under the crankshaft pulley on the front of the engine.
I've found metal fragments from a worn starter drive gear that collect on the magnet.
I've found metal fragments from a worn starter drive gear that collect on the magnet.
#45
Pulling the timing cover is a big deal. It looks simple, but getting it back on usually requires the upper oil pan to be pulled and replaced after the TC has been reinstalled.
I could be wrong but, based on the video that shows it starting and idles ok, and since it only has 171,000 miles, I just don't see how this could be a timing chain issue. The issue starts when you open the throttle.
Check out the following thread.
https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...-diagnose.html
I could be wrong but, based on the video that shows it starting and idles ok, and since it only has 171,000 miles, I just don't see how this could be a timing chain issue. The issue starts when you open the throttle.
Check out the following thread.
https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...-diagnose.html
#48
Well i dont have time to mess with it anymore. I went to a dealer today once i have 2000 im getting a new car. If anyone wants to buy it its theres if not it will b scraped cause im sure no ones gonna buy it the way it is if i post it online. Sucks bc its all brand new n have spare everything for it n had huge plans but i guess it is what it is.
#50
Hey man, keep at the Maxima! Much better to own your car outright.
We're onto timing noise now... hard to hear with your exhaust in the video. Get an automotive stethoscope and peek around the timing cover. You'll definitely hear it. I tried replacing my tensioner through the access door but that didn't remedy my chain noise.
My car had problems with really low, shaky idle. Sputters. Horrible chain noise. Replaced main chain, guides and tensioner and it has been remedied. Very quiet. There was about a 1/32" groove worn into the guides. If I were to look at it blindly, I'd think it was just fine. Runs much better now
When I first heard the noise I did compression check and oil pressure check with mechanical gauge before proceeding... 181-185psi across the board at 192k and 15psi of oil pressure when warm. I wanted to cover the basics.
Here's my timing chain noise...
We're onto timing noise now... hard to hear with your exhaust in the video. Get an automotive stethoscope and peek around the timing cover. You'll definitely hear it. I tried replacing my tensioner through the access door but that didn't remedy my chain noise.
My car had problems with really low, shaky idle. Sputters. Horrible chain noise. Replaced main chain, guides and tensioner and it has been remedied. Very quiet. There was about a 1/32" groove worn into the guides. If I were to look at it blindly, I'd think it was just fine. Runs much better now
When I first heard the noise I did compression check and oil pressure check with mechanical gauge before proceeding... 181-185psi across the board at 192k and 15psi of oil pressure when warm. I wanted to cover the basics.
Here's my timing chain noise...
#51
i know that but what I am saying is that this problem came and went as a here and there light spudder under throttle then all the sudden showed up one night as a full bang. if u read my entire post u can smell gas and what not so I doubt the maf would come and go n them come blazing and make the car smell like unburnt fuel. I had a check light before this for cps and throttle sensor. I changed the tps. did ohm test on cps but it still could be bad a guess that code has came and went for months now. when my maf went bad last time I got codes and the car just wouldn't rev past 3000rpm. not like what its doing now surging and popping smellin like gas.
So you are looking to spent $2,000 on a new car down payment. How much depreciation and payments (read interest) will you take on a new car over 3 to 5 years? Usually 4x to 5x times the down payment.
You've got the kind of 4th gen that I like to buy from owners who have given up and jumped to a newer car. I usually pick up a nice looking 4th gen for $1,500 or less. Then I budget around $700 to $800 to perform a midlife refresh so the cars run like new when I'm done. I can see you have done some of that work already. So you are ahead in that area. Though there is still work to be done to complete a midlife refresh to get things back to like new operation for your 4th gen.
Take a look at my 4th - 4th gen thread and you'll see what I do to restore my A32s to run like new cars. I source most of my parts from rockauto.com and advanceauto.com (with the TRT41 online discount coupon) + eBates bonus. I normally only use Intermotor brand aftermarket parts. There is a difference.
Last edited by CS_AR; 11-15-2016 at 05:33 AM.
#52
I want to know what this midlife refresh consists of I'll check out some of your posts.
Although, I know the feeling of struggling to keep your daily driver running. It can be really frustrating. I too have thought about going to the dealership, or buying a sub $2000 car that will no doubt have issues and you may end up starting from square one again. Been there. I have also bought $500 beaters just to get to work while I repair my DD.
Let us know what you end up doing!
Although, I know the feeling of struggling to keep your daily driver running. It can be really frustrating. I too have thought about going to the dealership, or buying a sub $2000 car that will no doubt have issues and you may end up starting from square one again. Been there. I have also bought $500 beaters just to get to work while I repair my DD.
Let us know what you end up doing!