dvpatel99se

iTrader: (1)

I have owned our 99 SE since brand new (well it did have 350 miles on the clock due to what they told me was dealer swap).

Here is a list of things wrong with it
1 slightly bent rim.
Due to that, bearings on that side hum
Both valve cover gaskets need replacing
P0400 and P0325
Suspension creaks
Front hood supports are shot
Will need new brakes and tires
Front passenger caliper might be sticking
Ticking/chirping sound (perhaps tensioner) at startup and till warmed up
PS cooler hoses might be seeping PS fluid
Inner tie rod boots are torn that I can see
The minor oil leak from the covers has been recently dropping on the exhaust so burnt oil smell gets into the cabin at lights if I stop too long.
Ignition switch or the Park sensor might be on their way out as I get starting problems once in a while

What should I do? Bite the bullet and get it fixed? I did buy all the parts for both the EGR tube cleaning and gasket replacement but do not have the will to do the work now. Gaskets were purchased about 2 or so years ago and the EGR parts almost 5 or so years back. Earlier this year, replaced starter earlier this year. Have replaced alternate late last year a 2nd time under warranty. First replacement was about 5 or 6 years back.

Till this year, I was able to clear the code, drive back and forth to work and pass emissions. Now, P0325 comes back almost immediately after a reset. No other codes except P0325 and P0400.

Have been running full synthetic and doing Oil Changes around 5K miles religiously. Did Amsoil tranny fluid swap at 90K. I have 150K on the clock now.

With one weather related wreck and one at fault wreck from the Mrs., my insurance is high so I am torn on whether to get a new car or not.

Turbobink

iTrader: (2)

Perhaps I'm missing your point here, but insurance rate increases due to collisions have nothing to do with the car ... they are related to the driver. Driver's crash cars. Cars don't just up and crash.

If you're hoping that with a new(er) vehicle, your rates will drop, you're hopes will very likely be dashed.

CS_AR

How many miles does it have? Any pictures?

Auto or manual?

This is exactly the type of car that I like to buy and give a midlife refresh so it can be driven another 100,000+ miles.

dvpatel99se

iTrader: (1)

Oh I agree with you. If we buy a new car, the insurance goes up even higher. We dropped the full coverage on the Maxima to cope. So, buying a new car, though affordable for the car is not wise till the 3 years are done. Last crash was this past March.

dvpatel99se

iTrader: (1)

Its a Stirling Mist SE that we purchased in Jan 1999. It has 150ish K. I did mention that in my first post. It is an Auto and there are no issues with tranny or engine. But the many little things would cost me a pretty penny if I get the work done. I have not done the timing chain either.

Central AR is way too far from the Carolinas to recruit you to do the work on the cheap for me.

PowerTotheMax

150k miles is pretty low mileage. If it's rust free it can last another 100k or more. If you don't do repairs yourself, then its a difficult decision.

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

I say keep it. Most of your repairs are dirt cheap and easy to do. Only tires are going to impact your wallet.

I think the choice is obvious, especially when you take insurance costs into the equation.

CS_AR

At 150,000 its still a baby. My 98 with 240,000 is good for another 100,000 or more.

CS_AR

I bet we have some members in your area that may want to help or refer you to a reasonable shop. Some years ago I almost bought a house in Tega Cay to live and work in that area. Nice place.

PH98I30

I am with these guys. I would keep it and have the work done or find someone willing to do it... if you won't. Wizard is right. The Brake & tire stuff is all sort of related. Just fix a little at a time. My 98 is at 156k and it will go another 150k. My last emissions NOX reading was 2. I do use TCW3 in my gas.

dvpatel99se

iTrader: (1)

Thank you guys. I have been pouring over the VC Gasket videos. I cannot see pix at work. I will pick this back up from home tonight.

I might man up and just off my lazy butt and get this done in my vacation time where I have to burn my days as I lose my unused time off.

CS_AR, small world indeed. The place here is nice and pretty (on its way to **** though with so many new developments). Tega Cay is a mere 15 miles from Pineville in SC. Even less on backroads.

dvpatel99se

iTrader: (1)

For the record, the two alternator replacements and the starter replacements were done by your's truly with help from the forum threads. I have also done 2 full brake jobs with pads and rotors. I can probably tackle the caliper issue as well.

I am more concerned about the suspension parts that are not a part of my list above. Do I even need to worry about the timing chain? I am thinking that due to that chirping, I will have to get that done too. Isn't that a grand by itself?

dvpatel99se

iTrader: (1)

Oh. Forgot to mention. I replaced the radiator myself earlier this year too. It was cracked from the top.

JvG

Your car can last a whole lot longer.

It appears that you have not kept up the maintenance.

Eventually neglect makes the car undesirable to own and drive.

So you could sell the car, and buy a newer one, or you could fix yours. There is a lot of work to do.
Quite affordable and cost effective if you do your own work.

Probably a money pit if you hire mechanics though.

Yes, your car could travel an additional 100k miles .

CS_AR

One question is can you do without the car for a few days while you do the repair? We have a spare car that allows me to take my time and get into the bigger jobs not normally undertaken at home.

komik

+1 for keeping it. Mine currently has or previously had most of those issues.

dvpatel99se

iTrader: (1)

Really? How do you conclude that the car was neglected? Every single air filter change, coolant change, spark plug change, belt change etc have ALL been done on schedule. ONLY things not done are the timing chain and the PCV valve.

As to EGR code, there are several folks on here who either remove the EGR or run it with the CEL on. So, if you feel my car was neglected, please post details of what exactly was missed.

dvpatel99se

iTrader: (1)

I used to have that luxury. Not any more. We had 3 cars and two drivers. But the old Accord got totalled in the last wreck.

So down to two cars and two drivers. But I do have 9 days of vacation I need to use up.

CS_AR

Since you already have the VC EGR gaskets, that's a good place to start.

What type of wheel do you have? I would be looking to get that and the wheel bearing fixed as quick as possible. Is this on the front or rear wheel?

Do you have a NAPA store in your area that has a machine shop where they send out engine and suspension parts?

When I need a new front wheel bearing replaced, I just drop off the knuckle with hub attached at my local NAPA store and tell them to install a new National brand bearing and seal. They send it to their machine shop store where they press in the new bearing and seal. They have everything ready to install when I pick it up.

dvpatel99se

iTrader: (1)

I have the standard 5 star SE rims that are smooth. The 99.5 model had matte finish. There are wrekers around here and the rim is a mere 35 in decent shape. The bearing is a secondary issue. The tire shop said its a minor bend so I have been dragging that along. I plan to change the rim with my next tire purchase (Discount Tires) and take it from there for bearings. Same with brakes. They were last done earlier in the year when I just swapped out the pads. So, my next change is full rotors and pads on all corners. I can handle that just fine.

I am just scared of opening up all the bolts etc of the covers. I might do the front cover first to get a feel. I think as most of you are saying, I should just keep it and save as much as I can by doing the work myself.

JoshG

Seem's like a normal 150k mile problems it should have.. If you repair the problems;Expect 100k more miles out of it. Most people ditch it. But I wouldn't. 150k is still low miles considering it should be at 250k+ today.

maxima297

Yes, you did the basic, required maintenance to keep the car running. Bravo.

Neglect: knowing that a problem exists but not fixing it so that it doesn't manifest into a larger problem. For example, your bearings that hum due to the bent rim.

You have oil leaking that is becoming a larger issue. You have torn boots, that will cause a more serious issue. You're seeping PS fluid somewhere, which will cause a more serious issue. VC gaskets are leaking.....a sticking caliper? Come on now.....

Everything that you listed is easy to fix. My 97 has 158k and I have made all of these repairs except for the oil leak and rim problems, because my car hasn't had those problems yet. There are tutorials online, write ups here on the org, and detailed videos on youtube. You'll save a fortune doing it yourself, as long as you follow the instructions and don't over torque bolts. If you happen to lose bolts, they can be replaced at the local parts/hardware store. Hoses too. We can walk you through it all.

These cars can go to 300k and beyond, with not just basic scheduled maintenance, but with a "midlife service" and other preventative repairs.

dvpatel99se

iTrader: (1)

May be I over described my issues. The oil has never made it to my garage floor yet. Very rarely will a tiny drop be visible. But it is landing on the exhaust manifold causing a smell. The torn boot was discovered this past weekend. It was NOT there 2 months back at my last oil change. The sticking caliper is a guess. I have no issues minus the bearings and rim. The area around the two PS hoses seems oily and hence I concluded that it would be best to swap them. I appreciate the help all of you are willing to provide but when I developed a skip in firing, I replaced ALL 6 coil packs. I do not skimp on maintenance. The tires shop said the rim is fine and hence its been in use.

I haven't had to add oil or PS fluid.

dvpatel99se

iTrader: (1)

So. What all things do I need to tackle this? I intend to replace the knock sensor as it has over 150K on it and never been replaced. There used to be a recommended ebay vendor. I cannot find that info now and there are some sellers selling the sensors for a mere $6.

Any idea which to pick up? Also, what other odds and ends should I stock up on? I will have some hose on hand and clips/crimps what ever they're called to replace when I replace the hoses. I have the gaskets needed for the EGR fix which I need to find.

Anything else I should plan for, pick up and keep on hand?

CS_AR

Unless the knock sensor is throwing a code, I wouldn't worry about replacing it just yet. I have a collection of good working knock sensors in my garage workshop collecting dust that I've replaced over the years. Only once did I find a questionable knock sensor in six years and five Nissan engines that use that knock sensor. Though I can usually find a new OEM knock sensor on eBay in the $30 price range. I try to pick up a new knock sensor wiring harness also.

As far as a place to start, the front valve cover gasket is easy. You'll get a small taste of the work that is involved in changing the rear valve cover gasket when you replace the front. Download a copy of the FSM for your car from the link in my signature line and study the sections for the job you are preparing to start. It will be your friend through the process.

If you search the 4th gen forum for my posts, you see where I started and ended on my most recent project.

maxima297

Hi temp rtv, dialectic grease, ziplog baggies to label which bolts go to what, shop rags (these will come in handy when doing the valve cover gaskets so you don't drop anything into the motor), a torque wrench if you don't already have one (I picked up one at Napa for 35 bucks), new iacv and throttle body gaskets (I searched high and low and couod only find mine online, if you need a link, let me know), brakleen or similar product for cleaning the valve covers, egr tube-to-manifold gasket, there's more but I can't remember yet. You may also need a few replacement bolts.

I would highly recommend checking out your injectors while you have the uim off. If they have never been replaced, they may need to be, and change your fuel filter and spark plugs if they are older than 20k miles. As an fyi, there is an order to loosening and tightening the four uim bolts.

dvpatel99se

iTrader: (1)

Thank you maxima297. I have quite a few of the things listed. I believe I have the gaskets listed but I do need to find them in the garage or the house. Please post if you remember some other things. Planning this out to start work mid-Decemberish.

dvpatel99se

iTrader: (1)

I know the P0325 can be a ghost/fake code. It used to come after my P0400 was triggered. This time, a couple of weeks back, after I checked the codes (I do that every other month to make sure no new issues have popped up), I reset the codes and P0325 came up immediately after the 2nd start of the engine. I have now reset it twice and it keeps coming back up way before the P0400 would pop up. Leads me to believe that the Knock Sensor is finally shot at 155K

CS_AR

I concur.

JvG

You will be removing the uim to reach the rear valve cover.

This would be an excellent time to work on the injectors as well. These are failing on on our cars frequently.

CS_AR has an excellent write up about this. He also covers the valve cover work.

I had mine injectors serviced. They did a great job.
Or CS_AR is trying out brand new Chinese injectors which cost 11 bucks each.

Removing the uim is not fun, so you might as well get it all fixed now so you won't have to be in there an other time.

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

Assuming you have a 99 CA spec Max, you're going to want to remove the LIM and replace that KS so the job is easy. It's practically impossible to change the KS otherwise.

JvG

I believe that Wizard means the uim.

As in upper intake manifold.

No need to remove the lower intake manifold that I can see.

dvpatel99se

iTrader: (1)

I am on the east coast. I do not think I have a CA spec Maxima. I think I have a federal spec Maxima.

I will look up on the injector thread by CS_AR. I have a hard time with the forum as big brother here has banned photobucket so none of the pix show up and I have only limted time once I get home but I am slowly assembling the information and will tackle all of it in one shot. I plan to do this myself starting with the front VC first to get a feel for this.

Thank you guys so far for the advice. Please keep that rolling so that when I start, I have a pretty accurate list of everything I can get to while I have her open.

JvG

When I removed the uim, I realized that this is an ideal time to do additional preventative maintenance.

I had replaced the knock sensor before this. It was not easy. But would be super easy with the uim off.

There are two heater hoses which are easy to replace tgen. The injectors and gasoline hoses could/should be done, and the fuel filter, if it is old.

The egr system shound be cleaned at this time, especially the tube which looks like a door handle.

The throttle body could be cleaned, as well as the iacv valve. The maf can be sprayed.

The spark plugs if not done recently.

All this sounds like a huge pita, and is.

The car will run amazingly well afterwards.

dvpatel99se

iTrader: (1)

Thank you JvG.

The EGR is planned. Will get rid of the code finally. I will get the hoses under there and behind the UIM as well. I was not planning on touching the fuel system but now that you guys mention it, I will look into injector maintenance/cleaning and the rubber hose as well. I already have the fuel filter on hand (300ZX one) and that is planned. I was going to talke the Throttle Body and IACV but was not planning on spraying the MAF.

Spark plugs have 35K on them and weren't planned. Since I am opening it all up, I might just get that done as well.

CS_AR

Since you are looking to clean the IACV, I have a thread in construction for injector removal tips in the link below. I'm not finished developing it -- so there are some missing parts at this point. I need a weekend of good weather and free time to finish the thread.

So why does this matter when you are cleaning the IACV?

There are "Phillips looking" screws that hold the stepper motor and valve cover to the IACV body. You can reduce the risk of stripping the head on those screws if you use a Japanese Industrial Screw (JIS) driver. This thread shows how you can make your own #2 JIS driver. You will use the JIS driver to remove screws on the Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) and the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) at some point in the future. I picked up a set of 1/2 drive Phillips head drivers from Harbor Freight and filed the tip to make a JIS like driver.

https://maxima.org/forums/test-posts...struction.html

Here's a video about the difference between JIS and Phillips head screws.

maxima297

Plan to replace the pcv hose that goes between the valve covers. You also may as well replace the uim gasket.

And speaking of gaskets, I hope you get the vc gasket set that includes the spark plug tube seals so those can be replaced. Bordmder or however his name is spelled, has a great tutorial video on YouTube on how to replace those while doing the vc gasket under the uim.

Speaking of the uim......there's a royal b!tch of a U shaped hose on the backside of it (if you're facing it, it'll be on the right, next to egr tube) that connects the uim to the egr tube. I thought I could just replace the hose with regular cut hose. I was wrong. I had the sizing right, but the way it needed to be shaped caused it to crimp. If you have the time, hit up the junkyard, find a 4th Gen and tear the uim apart and snag that hose. It'll be a little bit of a PITA to remove but it's entirely possible. That way in case the one on your car is cut or needs replacing, you've got that covered.

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

No, I meant the LIM.
Do not assume. Plenty of CA spec Maximas were sold throughout the US. Besides the VIN, a simple way to check is to see if you have four O2 sensor connectors right in front of the engine (instead of 3, as seen on a Fed Spec). The difference between access to the KS on 99 CA and 99 Fed spec is night and day.

CS_AR

Some of us have learned to bypass the *itch of u shaped hose that makes UIM jobs a real pain. I bypassed it on Max III roughly 3 years ago and on Max IV a few weeks ago.

CS_AR

Sold the car for $700. Then gave the seats away. Then a year later bought another black on gray SE. I wish I had kept the seats.