How can I fix this oil leak?
#1
How can I fix this oil leak?
I have an engine oil leak coming from somewhere in the torque converter
I'm sure it's engine oil as the tranny fluid has been flushed and is brand new, would be red, not brown.
I have an image of where it is coming from. I had to take off a small metal plate with 2 nuts to expose the hole I'm looking in to.
the oil is yellowish as it is fairly new oil. it leaks enough that it creates about a quarter size stain wherever i park it. is it anything to worry about? should I just leave it be and keep driving it?
I'm sure it's engine oil as the tranny fluid has been flushed and is brand new, would be red, not brown.
I have an image of where it is coming from. I had to take off a small metal plate with 2 nuts to expose the hole I'm looking in to.
the oil is yellowish as it is fairly new oil. it leaks enough that it creates about a quarter size stain wherever i park it. is it anything to worry about? should I just leave it be and keep driving it?
Last edited by PearceYaussy; 12-03-2016 at 09:27 AM.
#2
Welcome back PY. How did the CV axle turn out?
I think this is going to take some amount of work to resolve. There are two possible sources for an oil leak that rear of the engine.
1) Rear half moon gasket. This gasket is at the rear of the upper oil pan. Replacing the upper oil pans half moon requires dropping the upper oil pan.
2) Rear Main Seal (RMS). Requires removing the transmission. I've had the RMS replaced when I had an engine out of the car also.
You may have both issues at play.
How are you equipped on tools, jack stands, (possibly) transmission jack, for a major repair?
Here's a thread with pictures from Turbobink about RMS replacement.
https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...000-miles.html
Here's a thread about timing cover removal that covers the upper oil pan.
https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...moval-tip.html
I think this is going to take some amount of work to resolve. There are two possible sources for an oil leak that rear of the engine.
1) Rear half moon gasket. This gasket is at the rear of the upper oil pan. Replacing the upper oil pans half moon requires dropping the upper oil pan.
2) Rear Main Seal (RMS). Requires removing the transmission. I've had the RMS replaced when I had an engine out of the car also.
You may have both issues at play.
How are you equipped on tools, jack stands, (possibly) transmission jack, for a major repair?
Here's a thread with pictures from Turbobink about RMS replacement.
https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...000-miles.html
Here's a thread about timing cover removal that covers the upper oil pan.
https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...moval-tip.html
#3
Most likely to be the rear main seal, as I think I am looking straight up into where the engine meets the torque converter. Is it worth it to try something like blue devil sealer? It clams to "permanently" restore old seals, but I kind of doubt that is true...
The new CV axle stopped the trans fluid leak (finally) and that's when I realized I had ANOTHER leak that's not tranny fluid. Really banging my head right now lol.
I would not have the tools necessary to do the rms replacement myself, so I would have to take it to a mechanic...
The new CV axle stopped the trans fluid leak (finally) and that's when I realized I had ANOTHER leak that's not tranny fluid. Really banging my head right now lol.
I would not have the tools necessary to do the rms replacement myself, so I would have to take it to a mechanic...
Last edited by PearceYaussy; 12-03-2016 at 10:00 AM.
#4
Most likely to be the rear main seal, as I think I am looking straight up into where the engine meets the torque converter. Is it worth it to try something like blue devil sealer? It clams to "permanently" restore old seals, but I kind of doubt that is true...
The nwew CV axle stopped the trans fluid leak (finally) and that's when I realized I had ANOTHER leak that's not tranny fluid. Really banging my head right now lol.
I would not have the tools necessary to do the rms replacement myself, so I would have to take it to a mechanic...
The nwew CV axle stopped the trans fluid leak (finally) and that's when I realized I had ANOTHER leak that's not tranny fluid. Really banging my head right now lol.
I would not have the tools necessary to do the rms replacement myself, so I would have to take it to a mechanic...
#5
Most likely to be the rear main seal, as I think I am looking straight up into where the engine meets the torque converter. Is it worth it to try something like blue devil sealer? It clams to "permanently" restore old seals, but I kind of doubt that is true...
The new CV axle stopped the trans fluid leak (finally) and that's when I realized I had ANOTHER leak that's not tranny fluid. Really banging my head right now lol.
I would not have the tools necessary to do the rms replacement myself, so I would have to take it to a mechanic...
The new CV axle stopped the trans fluid leak (finally) and that's when I realized I had ANOTHER leak that's not tranny fluid. Really banging my head right now lol.
I would not have the tools necessary to do the rms replacement myself, so I would have to take it to a mechanic...
If I do replace it again, you can rest assured that I will be using a National seal and not Honda OEM. I'm done with Honda in more ways than one. That is one of the reasons that I'm here and not on some Honda forum.
The amount of oil leaking from that vehicle was embarrassing. If I went to visit someone I would often leave an oil slick in their driveway.
As as last ditch effort, I tried Valvoline High Mileage synthetic blend in the red bottle. It contains conditioners that are supposed to soften aging seals. Amazingly it slowed the leak to where it only uses 3/4 of a quart in roughly 5,000 miles. So it still leaks. But I've contained it to a level that I can live with until I sell the vehicle and look into purchasing a Nissan Titan to replace it.
I'm not an expert on oil additives and seal conditioners but I see Scotty Kilmer recommends a product named AT-205. I like the idea that is a liquid conditioner and not a thickener. I may try this to see if it will slow down the Honda leak.
Oil conditioners can only go so far. Sometimes you just can't reverse years of wear or a bad design. Once in a while you might have the conditions that allow a seal conditioner to work. It doesn't cost much to try if you think it won't do damage elsewhere.
Last edited by CS_AR; 12-03-2016 at 12:25 PM.
#6
I'm on my way to get a bottle this afternoon.
Last edited by CS_AR; 12-03-2016 at 12:24 PM.