93SCMax

iTrader: (3)

Greetings,
After much searching in this forum, and troubleshooting a rubbing PS belt and oil leak at the crankshaft, I've determined that it's time to replace the crankshaft pulley and oil seal. The seal has been leaking for some time, and I believe it also led to the degradation of the rubber in the pulley. I started getting a low idle squeal or rubbing noise a few weeks ago. I removed the alternator belt and the squeal remained, but I also noticed the crankshaft pulley had a little wobble to it. Based on other org members experiences, it appears the pulley rubber has degraded and it is rubbing on the PS belt.
Great, I know the problem but now I need to tackle the repair. Removing the alternator and PS belt weren't too difficult, but the crank pulley is another story. Even using PT blaster and an impact wrench (300 ft-lb torque capacity), I can't get it to move. Can anyone give me a few hints how to get this off with my current impact gun? Do I need a higher torque gun? I read in this forum that I needed a 250 ft-lb gun minimum, so I thought I was covered. I'd hate to drop $100-200 for a higher torque gun, especially when I would use it so sparingly.
A Nissan OEM crank pulley and oil seal are in transit to the house so I need to get this off and the old oil seal out in the next few days. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

CS_AR

Although I have a 350 lb and now a 500 lb air impact tool, I've pulled four Nissan VQ30DE (V-6) and one VH45DE (V-8) crankshafts in the past six years using the approach in the following thread.

I think if I had to do it again tomorrow, I would still use this approach. Sometimes old habits (that worked) are hard to break. The trick is to have some slack between the wrench and the concrete (in my case the cheater bar) that allows the starter to set the crankshaft in motion before it makes an abrupt stop that pops the bolt loose. I make sure the fuel pump fuse has been removed so the engine will not start when I use this approach.

https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...ml#post9128196

93SCMax

iTrader: (3)

CS AR, Thanks for your quick reply. I saw your thread earlier when I was researching the problem. The breaker bar method was considered, but You Tube videos recommended an impact gun. Frankly, I was hoping to avoid the breaker bar approach due to my fear of breaking a flywheel tooth. It's good to know you have had such success with this method. I'll go at it a few more times with the impact gun. If I still have no luck, I'll be trying your approach prior to my pulley arriving on Jan. 10. Thanks again for your input and confidence in your method.

93SCMax

iTrader: (3)

Hey, good luck with your new 4th gen...they really are great cars to own and work on.

CS_AR

Thank you. I totally agree. BTW - The first time I use that approach was on the V-8 that had a factory torque setting of 270 lbs. Members of the VH45DE clubs reported that would take a 500 lb air impact to remove it. So in most cases, on those engines, a 350 lb impact just isn't enough to break one loose on a 20+ year-old engine.

93SCMax

iTrader: (3)

Brief update:
Still couldn't get the crankshaft pulley off with my impact gun. Went to Harbor Freight and bought a 25" 1/2 inch breaker bar for $11.99. Tried the "breaker bar /starter method" per CS AR. Popped it loose in a second. My worries over a broken flywheel/starter tooth were unfounded.
New front crank seal is installed. Waiting for my new crankshaft pulley.
Thanks again CS AR for your input.

93SCMax

iTrader: (3)

Final update:
Pulley arrived early. Now installed and the Maxima is running fine again...no front belt noise.
Attached is a side photo of the original pulley (left) and the new pulley(right). It's obvious the outer pulley shifted inward and that caused it to rub against the power steering belt, hence causing the noise. I guess you can expect this from an 18+ year old part. Thanks again to all org contributors who shared their knowledge, and allowed me to troubleshoot this issue.

CS_AR

Good to see you are running again. I had one separate about 5 years ago on the 99 I30 at roughly 225,000 miles. Since then I started replacing them as a mid-life maintenance item along with rubber items like belts and hoses.

M in KC

93SCMax, what method did you use to R&R the front crank seal?

93SCMax

iTrader: (3)

M in KC,
I watched a lot of You tube videos, like the link below:
I eventually used a small curved craftsman pick, that I could get under the inner part of the seal. With a little tugging, and moving the pick to multiple locations, it came out easily. I expected worse. Just a note of caution, be careful not to scratch anything with the pick.
For installation, I greased the inner and outer part of the seal, and seated the seal with my hands, then pressed firmly to get her started. I then lightly tapped across the seal (opposite sides at the same time) with a piece of wood and a rubber mallet. I didn't have a socket as large as the seal, so I had to improvise.
There is no longer any leak on the garage floor from the front crank seal.
If you have been putting off replacing a front crank seal, don't wait...it really wasn't too bad once the pulley was off.

M in KC

Thanks for the explanation. That is how I have done them in the past myself. Although this time I was/am considering using the Lisle seal puller.