Got bad coils? I tested and only replaced 2. How to w/ Pics
04-04-2009, 06:48 AM
#161
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 17
Advice Needed!
Recently as I accelerated hard onto a highway the SES light came on (2001 Maxima AE, 70,000 miles) and remained on after refueling. Thus, I didn't think it was a gas cap problem and the light remained on for three days. I arranged a service with my local Nissan dealer, but on the morning of the 4th day when I started the car, the light was off. I took my Max in for service anyway as I also needed a brake service (wondered if it might be the 4th O2 sensor as three had already required replacement).
The service advisor assured me they could pull the ECM code for the problem even though the light was now off.
When I spoke to the service advisor 4 hours later he said the car was ready, but the engine coils were getting weak; he recommended replacement of all 6 ignition coils and plugs. I agreed and he said the parts would be ordered: cost for the job $1100.00 CDN. When I picked up my Max he said the code was 1320 and that this indicated, not a specific coil, but all in general were weak, i.e., measuring low resistance. He told me that if it had been a specific coil, the code would be 1321 plus a code indicating the problem coil(s).
When I arrived home I looked over the service report in greater detail and found that the service tech noted he had checked for codes, but found NONE! The report read: "OK at this time, maybe an intermittent problem make sure gas cap is secured properly."
There was no evidence that any test had been performed on the coils whatsoever. From reading this thread, I have the impression that "resistance" per se is not a completely reliable method for testing coils (particularly since there is a power transistor in the secondary of the ignition coil)...putting it on a scope is a much better approach.
In any case, I have no idle problems, no acceleration problems, no misfiring, no engine knock, no 1320 code and no record of any testing done on the coils. Am I missing something here, or is this service advisor's brain misfiring and not running on all cylinders? Any help will be much apperciated.
The service advisor assured me they could pull the ECM code for the problem even though the light was now off.
When I spoke to the service advisor 4 hours later he said the car was ready, but the engine coils were getting weak; he recommended replacement of all 6 ignition coils and plugs. I agreed and he said the parts would be ordered: cost for the job $1100.00 CDN. When I picked up my Max he said the code was 1320 and that this indicated, not a specific coil, but all in general were weak, i.e., measuring low resistance. He told me that if it had been a specific coil, the code would be 1321 plus a code indicating the problem coil(s).
When I arrived home I looked over the service report in greater detail and found that the service tech noted he had checked for codes, but found NONE! The report read: "OK at this time, maybe an intermittent problem make sure gas cap is secured properly."
There was no evidence that any test had been performed on the coils whatsoever. From reading this thread, I have the impression that "resistance" per se is not a completely reliable method for testing coils (particularly since there is a power transistor in the secondary of the ignition coil)...putting it on a scope is a much better approach.
In any case, I have no idle problems, no acceleration problems, no misfiring, no engine knock, no 1320 code and no record of any testing done on the coils. Am I missing something here, or is this service advisor's brain misfiring and not running on all cylinders? Any help will be much apperciated.
11-08-2009, 09:35 PM
#165
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 1
My Test instrument nailed it down to Cyl 5 misfiring, so I followed your instructions. First the power fitting on mine has to be pushed down towards the coil, not squeezed: but that may differ with each car. Once I took it out, I put another plug in it, and it did not spark. Next test to determine if their was a signal calling for spark, so I pulled another coil and switched leads, Second one fired on number 5 wire, so the signal was there. As a last check I put the top of the round tube next to a metal line, and bingo, it sparked up there. Then I pulled that tube off, pulled out the long spring (about 4 inches long) and stretched it another inch or so, put it back and put the plug back into the end. Started car, and the plug was firing, Total cost to repair, $0.00 May be a rare case but worth a try for others. Car now runs fine, so its not just the coil but that long spring down the feed tube to the plug. Hope this saves someone else the $75.00 or so for a new coil.
12-14-2009, 07:10 AM
#168
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 497
My Test instrument nailed it down to Cyl 5 misfiring, so I followed your instructions. First the power fitting on mine has to be pushed down towards the coil, not squeezed: but that may differ with each car. Once I took it out, I put another plug in it, and it did not spark. Next test to determine if their was a signal calling for spark, so I pulled another coil and switched leads, Second one fired on number 5 wire, so the signal was there. As a last check I put the top of the round tube next to a metal line, and bingo, it sparked up there. Then I pulled that tube off, pulled out the long spring (about 4 inches long) and stretched it another inch or so, put it back and put the plug back into the end. Started car, and the plug was firing, Total cost to repair, $0.00 May be a rare case but worth a try for others. Car now runs fine, so its not just the coil but that long spring down the feed tube to the plug. Hope this saves someone else the $75.00 or so for a new coil.
Is there a pictorial on how to do rear coils on 3.0 engine? Especially, what needs to come off before I can access the coil?
Thanks,
- Vikas
12-26-2009, 08:21 AM
#169
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 16
after ohmed 6 of the coils with ohm variances all of them, to to arrange it? I mean, should i put coils with as identic ohm in cylinder 1,3,6 to make it balance or what? because 6 of my coils are good but feel bucking when crawling at D (with brake applied)
02-22-2010, 10:06 PM
#170
@ bebekhijau, no you are looking for a coil which has a reading under 1.8 and if you have more than one then replace all coils which read lower than 1.8.
My 2002 SE has the non-white dot coils and I tested cylinders 2,4,6 and found pin 1-2 to be around 1.8 (+/- 0.1) so can I write those off as working good? Didn't touch the rear bank but will soon. This is at 196,000 miles!
-only posting this here to continue the information gathering on the VQ35DE's ignition coils.
My 2002 SE has the non-white dot coils and I tested cylinders 2,4,6 and found pin 1-2 to be around 1.8 (+/- 0.1) so can I write those off as working good? Didn't touch the rear bank but will soon. This is at 196,000 miles!
-only posting this here to continue the information gathering on the VQ35DE's ignition coils.
02-23-2010, 02:49 PM
#171
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 9
Great post guys. I apologize for posting this request on various threads but I have not received any feedback or guidance and I finally founf this thread which seems to be directly related to my problem. PLEASE READ THE HISTORY BELOW AND LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU THINK. Thanks a lot guys, this is very valuable information and it is highly appreciated.
I need help to find out the best way to fix the SES light in my 2000 Maxima GLE.
SES, SLIP and TCS lights come on simultaneously. After re-starting the car the SLIP and TCS light go away and return from time to time. SES light remained on.
Connected OBD II computer and registered code P0160. Code reset and drove car for ~ 200 miles. Code P0160 never came back again.
SES light came on again. Codes P1320 and P1614 registered. Car is turning on fine and no problems noticed starting the car.
SES went off by itself (no battery disconnect or light reset) and then all three lights came back after ~ 70 miles.
SES came back and SLIP and TCS off remained off. Brought it to the mechanic and Codes P1320 and P1614 were read again. Car IS NOT misfiring so the mechanic indicated that P1320 might be due to some sort of problem in one of the coils. However, since the car is not misfiring and we are not getting any of the codes to identify the specific coil, the only solution to get rid of the code now is to change all 6 coils which is very expensive. Code P1614 we are not sure what is causing this. The car came with an aftermarket alarm (Viper with remote start) and he believes that can be the problem but did not provide any direction as to how to fix it. I know there is a way to test a malfunctioning coil when the engine is misfiring by removing each coil and watching for no change in performance but since the car is working fine I do not think that is an alternative
I need help to find out the best way to fix the SES light in my 2000 Maxima GLE.
SES, SLIP and TCS lights come on simultaneously. After re-starting the car the SLIP and TCS light go away and return from time to time. SES light remained on.
Connected OBD II computer and registered code P0160. Code reset and drove car for ~ 200 miles. Code P0160 never came back again.
SES light came on again. Codes P1320 and P1614 registered. Car is turning on fine and no problems noticed starting the car.
SES went off by itself (no battery disconnect or light reset) and then all three lights came back after ~ 70 miles.
SES came back and SLIP and TCS off remained off. Brought it to the mechanic and Codes P1320 and P1614 were read again. Car IS NOT misfiring so the mechanic indicated that P1320 might be due to some sort of problem in one of the coils. However, since the car is not misfiring and we are not getting any of the codes to identify the specific coil, the only solution to get rid of the code now is to change all 6 coils which is very expensive. Code P1614 we are not sure what is causing this. The car came with an aftermarket alarm (Viper with remote start) and he believes that can be the problem but did not provide any direction as to how to fix it. I know there is a way to test a malfunctioning coil when the engine is misfiring by removing each coil and watching for no change in performance but since the car is working fine I do not think that is an alternative
02-23-2010, 10:20 PM
#172
@ fsaenz10 I see your post in the "I am new here and have a question sticky" at 02-16-2010. Then I see a reply at 02-18-2010 click here. 
Have you followed the information provided in the post? Have you checked your ignition coils per the directions from this thread?
It sure is easy to ask someone to answer your question but real knowledge comes from doing the research (or being told what to specifically check) and finding the answer yourself.
We cannot help unless you test, check and provide detailed information for us to go on.
Edit: You check the ignition coil with an Ohm meter and even that test is debated on here as to how accurate the results are. The steps are within this thread, just spend the 30 minutes and read from the oldest post until the end.
Have you followed the information provided in the post? Have you checked your ignition coils per the directions from this thread?
It sure is easy to ask someone to answer your question but real knowledge comes from doing the research (or being told what to specifically check) and finding the answer yourself.
We cannot help unless you test, check and provide detailed information for us to go on.
Edit: You check the ignition coil with an Ohm meter and even that test is debated on here as to how accurate the results are. The steps are within this thread, just spend the 30 minutes and read from the oldest post until the end.
03-14-2010, 11:55 AM
#173
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 13
The resistance reading varies with temperature. That's why we see a big variation of the values posted. I would not pay too much attention to the absolute value of what you measure. Rather, just use the readings to identify the one which is higher than the rest and this one is most likely the one which needs to be replaced.
After leaving my car overnight in the garage (~40F ambient temp), I pulled all 6 for measurement. I can only get a reading between pins 1 & 2, the other pin combinations gave infinite reading. I get roughly 1.45 for 4 of the coils but 1.65 for coil 5 and 1.56 for coil 6. Replaced 5 and 6 and the P1320 code is now gone.
During the process, I also measured the resistance while the coils are hot (after a 5 mile drive to the auto parts store) and found that the values are much higher across the board. I get numbers in the 1.8 range for the good coils which drop as the coils cool. While the coils are hot, I was also able to get measurements between pins 1 & 3 (some very large value which I forgot).
When posting the measurements, it will be useful to also let others know whether they are taken while the coils are hot and if not what is the ambient temperature.
After leaving my car overnight in the garage (~40F ambient temp), I pulled all 6 for measurement. I can only get a reading between pins 1 & 2, the other pin combinations gave infinite reading. I get roughly 1.45 for 4 of the coils but 1.65 for coil 5 and 1.56 for coil 6. Replaced 5 and 6 and the P1320 code is now gone.
During the process, I also measured the resistance while the coils are hot (after a 5 mile drive to the auto parts store) and found that the values are much higher across the board. I get numbers in the 1.8 range for the good coils which drop as the coils cool. While the coils are hot, I was also able to get measurements between pins 1 & 3 (some very large value which I forgot).
When posting the measurements, it will be useful to also let others know whether they are taken while the coils are hot and if not what is the ambient temperature.
Last edited by JN1CA31D2YT; 03-14-2010 at 11:57 AM.
05-25-2010, 04:38 PM
#175
I have been getting a few PMs on this from time to time, but most questions have been answered somewhere in this thread, take some time and read because there is alot of good info in here from people other than me.
I swapped only two coils in Jan of 2006 and through Oct 2007 have not had a single problem with any additional coils. If you can isolate the bad coil, why replace all 6?
Sooooooo, I had the frigging SES, TCS, SLIP lights which any 5th gen owner should now know is code P1320, which means, drum roll please, Bad Ignition Coil. I was also luckily enough not just to have code once, but twice and also to have a code P0300, which is multiple misfires. I was able to get the codes pulled for free from my Autozone and so I started my quest to fix my car.
Some background info: The original coils from Nissan are garbage and Nissan knows this, yet they have chosen to do nothing about it. They did however update the coils with "newer" ones with a gray dot, that were supposed to be awesome. Well I open my hood, take off the cover and guess what, all my coils have gray dots. So I guess that blows that idea up. I bought my car in 2003 with 80k in miles from Woodfield Nissan in Illinois. So at some point in time they had already been replaced.
Ok, back to my test, I donated to Maxima.org so I could search and spent a night reading about just bad coils. The general consensus is that you should replace all 6 when one goes bad. The rough best price was about $300 for all six. The only problem is that I have this in my life right now that causes me to be short on money.
So after reading, I found a few things that will help in changing just the bad coils as I have done. I can not take credit for this info as pretty much all of it has been tried before, I am just trying to make it as easy as possible for everyone else.
Step #1 - Autozone
You may be lucky enough to have an additional code stored in your cars computer. If you have code P1320 with any P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0305 or P0306, that is a misfire on specific cylinder. You now know which one is bad just replace that one, see the pics below on how to remove the coil.
Step 2 - Unplug coil one at a time
Remove your cover by taking the four bolts off your cover, you will need a 4mm allen wrench.
This test will only work if your engine is running really bad idle. If your SES/TCS/SLIP only come on when your engine is under load this test will not work, skip to step 3. My engine was running really rough even at idle, so I started to unplug the coils on at a time. Just squeeze the clip and pull, it will come off.
The first one I tried cylinder #2, when unplugged, made no difference at all in how the engine ran. SO I instantly knew that one was bad. If your coil is good you engine will bog down and almost stall, as you are basically removing a running cylinder. Do this one at a time until you find the one, that when removed, your engine does not seem to run any rougher.
Step 3 - Testing the resistance
You will need a multimeter to do this. I have had mine for a while and it worked fine for this. Its nothing big, and you can pick mine up at Sears for only $19.99.
Remove all your coils. This is for 5th gen if you have a 5.5 here is a great write up for you to get to your rear coils from Greg5.5 Gen Write Up
The front three coils are right there held in by one 10mm bolt each. Unplug the clip, remove the bolt and pull. The coil will come right out.
I swapped only two coils in Jan of 2006 and through Oct 2007 have not had a single problem with any additional coils. If you can isolate the bad coil, why replace all 6?
Sooooooo, I had the frigging SES, TCS, SLIP lights which any 5th gen owner should now know is code P1320, which means, drum roll please, Bad Ignition Coil. I was also luckily enough not just to have code once, but twice and also to have a code P0300, which is multiple misfires. I was able to get the codes pulled for free from my Autozone and so I started my quest to fix my car.
Some background info: The original coils from Nissan are garbage and Nissan knows this, yet they have chosen to do nothing about it. They did however update the coils with "newer" ones with a gray dot, that were supposed to be awesome. Well I open my hood, take off the cover and guess what, all my coils have gray dots. So I guess that blows that idea up. I bought my car in 2003 with 80k in miles from Woodfield Nissan in Illinois. So at some point in time they had already been replaced.
Ok, back to my test, I donated to Maxima.org so I could search and spent a night reading about just bad coils. The general consensus is that you should replace all 6 when one goes bad. The rough best price was about $300 for all six. The only problem is that I have this in my life right now that causes me to be short on money.
So after reading, I found a few things that will help in changing just the bad coils as I have done. I can not take credit for this info as pretty much all of it has been tried before, I am just trying to make it as easy as possible for everyone else.
Step #1 - Autozone
You may be lucky enough to have an additional code stored in your cars computer. If you have code P1320 with any P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0305 or P0306, that is a misfire on specific cylinder. You now know which one is bad just replace that one, see the pics below on how to remove the coil.
Step 2 - Unplug coil one at a time
Remove your cover by taking the four bolts off your cover, you will need a 4mm allen wrench.
This test will only work if your engine is running really bad idle. If your SES/TCS/SLIP only come on when your engine is under load this test will not work, skip to step 3. My engine was running really rough even at idle, so I started to unplug the coils on at a time. Just squeeze the clip and pull, it will come off.
The first one I tried cylinder #2, when unplugged, made no difference at all in how the engine ran. SO I instantly knew that one was bad. If your coil is good you engine will bog down and almost stall, as you are basically removing a running cylinder. Do this one at a time until you find the one, that when removed, your engine does not seem to run any rougher.
Step 3 - Testing the resistance
You will need a multimeter to do this. I have had mine for a while and it worked fine for this. Its nothing big, and you can pick mine up at Sears for only $19.99.
Remove all your coils. This is for 5th gen if you have a 5.5 here is a great write up for you to get to your rear coils from Greg5.5 Gen Write Up
The front three coils are right there held in by one 10mm bolt each. Unplug the clip, remove the bolt and pull. The coil will come right out.
05-25-2010, 04:40 PM
#176
The rears are little more difficult to get to, but the are doable. Some people remove this bracket but I didn't have to, I just slipped the cables out of the bracket and I got the coils out. If you are worried about dropping the screws an easy way to avoid this is to put two thin strips of electrical tape on your socket like this. It will all the bolt on the socket and it wont fall out. This is extremely useful for putting the bolts back on.
When you are done you will have 3 fronts and 3 rears. I labeled the pin #s I used to test them in the pics.
Your red Red probe is positive and Black one is negative. Set your meter to 20k on the ohm setting and start testing and make sure you write your results down.
My result were this. I already knew I had one bad coil, the one was making my engine run rough. The second one would only fail under a load, so that was the culprit I was looking for. The coil I knew was bad, is labeled bad, the two new coils I had bought were labeled as new.
I was looking for a reading from a coil that was different than the two good ones. If you look #4 had an infinite resistance reading (i) for +1,-2 and +1,-3, no other coil had that so I found the other bad coil! Also the weird thing was that the coil I knew was bad before had almost the exact same reading as the good ones other than the +2,-3 test (6.82) which is higher than any other coil. I replaced the one I knew was bad and #4 and have not had any problems since.
Where to buy: There many places to get the coils, but the Nissan dealership is waaaay too much. DaveB on the boards can hook you up for about $55 each roughly but you have to wait for shipping. What I did is if you have an O'Reilly's in you area they sell the coils for $51.99, but you have to have them shipped and wait the week again. O'Reilly Auto Front Part #UF348, Rear Part #UF363. AutoZoneAlso carries thecoils, Front Part #C1267 Rear Part #C1266 and I could pick them up tomorrow but they were $69.99. I told auto zone they O’Reilly’s has them $51.99 and they went ahead and price matched them. Perfect, 2 coils $51.99 each and I get them tomorrow.
Conclusions
I was able to replace only the bad coils and did not have to replace all and pay extra money. These test are not 100% proof positive but if followed, will give you a pretty good shot at replacing only the one you have to. If any body out has a for sure bad coil or has a brand new, gray dot coil and would like to put an ohm meter on it, please do. I would like to have your results and will make a spreadsheet to compare the results to see if we could figure out a 100% positive test. Just send them PM or email to me.
I hope this makes all us 5th gen owner’s life a little easier
Fat
When you are done you will have 3 fronts and 3 rears. I labeled the pin #s I used to test them in the pics.
Your red Red probe is positive and Black one is negative. Set your meter to 20k on the ohm setting and start testing and make sure you write your results down.
My result were this. I already knew I had one bad coil, the one was making my engine run rough. The second one would only fail under a load, so that was the culprit I was looking for. The coil I knew was bad, is labeled bad, the two new coils I had bought were labeled as new.
I was looking for a reading from a coil that was different than the two good ones. If you look #4 had an infinite resistance reading (i) for +1,-2 and +1,-3, no other coil had that so I found the other bad coil! Also the weird thing was that the coil I knew was bad before had almost the exact same reading as the good ones other than the +2,-3 test (6.82) which is higher than any other coil. I replaced the one I knew was bad and #4 and have not had any problems since.
Where to buy: There many places to get the coils, but the Nissan dealership is waaaay too much. DaveB on the boards can hook you up for about $55 each roughly but you have to wait for shipping. What I did is if you have an O'Reilly's in you area they sell the coils for $51.99, but you have to have them shipped and wait the week again. O'Reilly Auto Front Part #UF348, Rear Part #UF363. AutoZoneAlso carries thecoils, Front Part #C1267 Rear Part #C1266 and I could pick them up tomorrow but they were $69.99. I told auto zone they O’Reilly’s has them $51.99 and they went ahead and price matched them. Perfect, 2 coils $51.99 each and I get them tomorrow.
Conclusions
I was able to replace only the bad coils and did not have to replace all and pay extra money. These test are not 100% proof positive but if followed, will give you a pretty good shot at replacing only the one you have to. If any body out has a for sure bad coil or has a brand new, gray dot coil and would like to put an ohm meter on it, please do. I would like to have your results and will make a spreadsheet to compare the results to see if we could figure out a 100% positive test. Just send them PM or email to me.
I hope this makes all us 5th gen owner’s life a little easier
Fat
Note: From these old posts and people linking from cardomain, they changed the site from .net to .com. If you quote the post, and click the little A over the big A button in the top right, you can see the link. Then copy and paste that into your browser bar changing .net to .com.
07-01-2010, 10:38 PM
#177
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 11
alright fellas heres you one I have a 02 Max changed out the coil packs with OEM parts and the spark plugs drove it for about 300 miles and the check engine light went off now its back on again and it has a slight misfire pulling the dreaded code of P0300 also had a mechanic dignosis the car and tells me everything is running the way it should and has no clue what is causing the CEL to stay on, injectors are fine and all cyclindars are firing fine so were do I go from here any help would be appriciated
12-21-2010, 02:42 PM
#180
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 14
sorry for bumping old thread...just want to clarify
I was able to remove all the connectors 1 - 6 and found #1 to fit the description mentioned.
incidentally for those with fat fingers a small L shaped nail puller or pry bar and a small flat head makes pulling the back ones a cinch. Use small flat head to depress release button and lever the plug off from the bottom with pry bar.
If I change one coil only should I still change all plugs? Also please clarify which plugs to buy please.
Thanks for your help. I had this in two shops and they could not locate the problem.
I was able to remove all the connectors 1 - 6 and found #1 to fit the description mentioned.
incidentally for those with fat fingers a small L shaped nail puller or pry bar and a small flat head makes pulling the back ones a cinch. Use small flat head to depress release button and lever the plug off from the bottom with pry bar.
If I change one coil only should I still change all plugs? Also please clarify which plugs to buy please.
Thanks for your help. I had this in two shops and they could not locate the problem.
01-12-2011, 06:40 PM
#182
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 24
I just successfully used this method as well.
I threw an SES P1320 and P0306 - indicating coil 6 failure. Car ran fine except occasional misfires, but gotta fix it!
Had a set of 6 old (non-gray-dot) coils an org'er sent me last year (thanks, whoever it was) - which he said at least 1 was bad, but didn't know which.
My car HAS the gray-dot coils on it already, so I guess they still suck.
Total cost: $0.00
this once again proves that just because one of your coils goes bad, don't throw out all your old non-gray-dot coils -you might need one later.
to Bigfatty for figuring this method out!
I threw an SES P1320 and P0306 - indicating coil 6 failure. Car ran fine except occasional misfires, but gotta fix it!
Had a set of 6 old (non-gray-dot) coils an org'er sent me last year (thanks, whoever it was) - which he said at least 1 was bad, but didn't know which.
My car HAS the gray-dot coils on it already, so I guess they still suck.
Total cost: $0.00
this once again proves that just because one of your coils goes bad, don't throw out all your old non-gray-dot coils -you might need one later.
to Bigfatty for figuring this method out!Great stuff on the coils. I still have a couple of questions though:
- Does this apply to the 4th gen maximas?
- Do higher resistance numbers mean a good coil or one that is on its way out.
I had the dreaded P1320 code that just showed up the other day out of no where. My 97 max had recently undergone the knife for a lot of body issues but after 150k I finally changed the plugs. Wow were they bad, there was no longer a platinum tip on these babys. After I got her running she threw a knock sensor code and after changing that, she ran fine for a couple of weeks and then voila the p1320.
Given that I had another set of coils I played with the MM to test the resistance and all of the old ones seemed to be fine. Although the car was not idling funny i also tried the test recommended (unplugging each coil one by one while the engine was running) however there was a change in the engine with each coil. So I did the next best thing, Pulled each coil, tested it on the MM and also took a peek at the plugs to see that they were burning correctly. All looked good. So I put it all back together and took it for a drive and no code. Now I did not drive a ton but I hope that I beat this one.
THe nagging question is can a coil act differently at different times and is there a way to tell that it may be on its way out?
Thanks again for all the info that you guys share. The forums are an excellent resource.
Nate
01-16-2011, 02:13 PM
#183
Okay, so I have two full sets of extra coils sitting in the garage so I decided to try this test real quick.
Here were my results: (only readings for +1-2/-1+2 everything else read nothing on all coils)
Set 1 (original from my car, knew that some were bad):
Front coils 1) 1.52/1.52 2) 1.74/1.74 3)~/~
Rear coils 1)~/~ 2) ~/~ 3) ~/~
Set 2 (the coils that replaced the originals, when I did my motor swap the new motor came with coils so these coils maybe perfectly fine for all I know)
Front coils 1) 1.77/1.77 2) 1.56/1.55 3) 1.77/1.77
Rear coils 1) 1.57/1.57 2) 1.53/1.53 3) 1.71/1.71
I will test them again some time soon when I have more time to spend with it and figure out why I can not get readings from the others, I just did this in a hurry now I have to go make dinner, lol...
Here were my results: (only readings for +1-2/-1+2 everything else read nothing on all coils)
Set 1 (original from my car, knew that some were bad):
Front coils 1) 1.52/1.52 2) 1.74/1.74 3)~/~
Rear coils 1)~/~ 2) ~/~ 3) ~/~
Set 2 (the coils that replaced the originals, when I did my motor swap the new motor came with coils so these coils maybe perfectly fine for all I know)
Front coils 1) 1.77/1.77 2) 1.56/1.55 3) 1.77/1.77
Rear coils 1) 1.57/1.57 2) 1.53/1.53 3) 1.71/1.71
I will test them again some time soon when I have more time to spend with it and figure out why I can not get readings from the others, I just did this in a hurry now I have to go make dinner, lol...
01-16-2011, 03:16 PM
#184
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 10,349
I have the 1320 code but no secondary codes. SES light has been on for about 3 months and hasn't thrown any secondary codes at all. I don't have a volt/ohm meter and i'm not familiar with how to test them even if I did have a meter. I read somewhere that the crank position sensors have to be switched out if only the 1320 code is there and no other codes. If one of the crank sensors were to be faulty, wouldn't it throw a code for it? Btw the car runs and drives smooth and I don't notice any misfiring at all...
04-14-2011, 01:59 AM
#186
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 65
2004 maxima service manual showing 6 ignition coils
For reference, here is a circuit diagram from 2004 maxima service manual showing 6 ignition coils and pin-out for one coil. The unlabeled wire at top left is +12vdc. The numbers on right are connections on the ECM. Note power transistor in Coil. This may help explain resistance readings referenced earlier in this thread.
ps. this service manual is outside year range of 5th gen. Others may know if it directly applies to 5th gen.
below:
pin 1 - signal from ECM
pin 2 - Ground
pin 3 - +12 vdc
note: pin numbers in schematic may not match pin assignments in voltage tables in previous posts.
Some failure modes of coil could be detected by checking for unidirectional current flow in both junctions of transistor (BE, BC) and the diode and by implication the conductance of coil. This may find a failing coil but cannot verify a good a good one. Another test would be a pulling coil and using spark plug with shell grounded on top of engine while verifying spark. This only partial test: failure could mean no signal from ECM, failing coil, lack of power and ground to coil or failing spark plug. Success may not mean coil is good in operation.
ps. this service manual is outside year range of 5th gen. Others may know if it directly applies to 5th gen.
below:
pin 1 - signal from ECM
pin 2 - Ground
pin 3 - +12 vdc
note: pin numbers in schematic may not match pin assignments in voltage tables in previous posts.
Some failure modes of coil could be detected by checking for unidirectional current flow in both junctions of transistor (BE, BC) and the diode and by implication the conductance of coil. This may find a failing coil but cannot verify a good a good one. Another test would be a pulling coil and using spark plug with shell grounded on top of engine while verifying spark. This only partial test: failure could mean no signal from ECM, failing coil, lack of power and ground to coil or failing spark plug. Success may not mean coil is good in operation.
Last edited by redrock5432; 04-14-2011 at 07:31 PM.
05-27-2011, 07:00 PM
#188
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 1
I keep getting readings only on +1-2 and +2-1. Has anyone figured out why this is? All of my coils have grey dots. any help would be great. The car would run for a couple of miles and just cut off. does this sound like this problem
07-14-2011, 03:10 PM
#190
Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 143
So I got charged almost $300 for front ignition coils about six months ago, and now I got P1320 and P0301 so my number 1 is bad I guess. After reading this I feel like a dope and am going to do it myself this time, but I have a fourth get mfg. 12/98 so will this guide be useful? I mean it looks almost identical to my engine ( I guess it is) but will I run into any other problems tackling a fourth gen that aren't listed here?
07-14-2011, 03:48 PM
#191
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 65
OutaTime28, I am not sure about 4th gen to 5th gen differences. The p0301 code does point to cylinder 1. One test is to swap coil to another cylinder and retake the codes to see if problem moved with coil. Keep posting to keep us up to date on what worked in your case.
07-16-2011, 08:22 AM
#192
Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 143
OutaTime28, I am not sure about 4th gen to 5th gen differences. The p0301 code does point to cylinder 1. One test is to swap coil to another cylinder and retake the codes to see if problem moved with coil. Keep posting to keep us up to date on what worked in your case.
07-16-2011, 01:08 PM
#193
Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 143
It worked! I went to OReillys and they said they never got my part, even though and hour earlier a store employee called me and told me they had it...I went to autozone. I paid $75 and it took fifteen minutes. I'll put up some pictures later, but it was as easy as getting two screws and a connector out, putting the new one in. Done. I did have to soften up the connector with a heat gun to get it to fit the new part, which wasn't a perfect fit. My only question: will the check engine light go out by itself, or is there something I have to do?
07-16-2011, 03:44 PM
#196
Just buy the ODB/2 bluetooth plug and the generic app for your newer smartphone. You can clear codes that way. And the total price (thanks to ebay) is under $75, PLUS you gain generic sensor reading.
07-16-2011, 04:55 PM
#197
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 65
The OBD2 Bluetooth thing is cool. Here is a video on the app. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ay-ZvTn3fLo
07-18-2011, 07:06 AM
#199
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Orange CA
Posts: 4
I hope some one can tell me if the problem that I'm having will be related to my Ignition coils.
Everytime that I start the car in the morning (cold engine) it starts fine, but when I drove the car for a while the car start doing a weird noise on every Stop light, them when stop the engine and try to turn the car back on the car turn on but it turn off by itself after 6 seconds, I found out that if I disconnect the MAF Sensor it starts fine but still doing the noise on every stop light.
This will have sometime to do with the ignition coils?
Thank you
Everytime that I start the car in the morning (cold engine) it starts fine, but when I drove the car for a while the car start doing a weird noise on every Stop light, them when stop the engine and try to turn the car back on the car turn on but it turn off by itself after 6 seconds, I found out that if I disconnect the MAF Sensor it starts fine but still doing the noise on every stop light.
This will have sometime to do with the ignition coils?
Thank you
