kingkai1990

Ok so I'm looking @ the guide to swap out the spark plugs. It says to change the gasket too...but when I look at the part number it doesn't seem to exist? Is it the intake gasket?

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

I don't know what guide you are looking at so it is kind of hard to answer your question with 100% certainty.

My first guess is that the guide is referring to the spark plug gasket. All spark plugs come with the gasket all ready installed on the plug. You might think of it as a fat washer, but it is a compression gasket.

If the guide is referring to the upper intake manifold gasket, that should definitely be replaced. You shouldn't have any problem finding the part number for this gasket. 14032-8J105 is Nissan's original part number that was superseded by 14032-8J10A.

kingkai1990

It would be this guide.

Also, when I go to the Nissan Store online And I try to search the 14032 parts, it's not showing at all.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

I went to the Nissan USA e-store and that is one screwed up website.
http://parts.nissanusa.com/?siteid=14

I entered the part number that both the guide and I gave you and it came up with a price of $33.10. Then for some unknown reason, I decided to tell the program that I had a 2002 Maxima. Then the stupid website said it couldn't find any such part. So I then went to the "find a dealer" portion. It asks for a zip code and I entered mine. It did not find Courtesy Nissan. Then I entered 75080, Courtesy Nissan's zip code. It did not find Courtesy Nissan.

Verdict - I wasted an hour of my life on this retarded website. Screw them and don't waste your time.

Here are some other links.
Courtesy Nissan - $24.83
http://www.courtesyparts.com/14040e-...-p-193612.html

nissanpartszone.com -$24.98
http://www.nissanpartszone.com/parts...032-8j10a.html

Then you have the non-Nissan parts.
Rock Auto Parts (rockauto.com) - $20.79 Fel Pro brand
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...,parttype,5424

autozone - $29.99 Fel Pro brand

Check the shipping charges to see who has the overall cheapest price, especially if you are comparing an on-line place to a local parts store. But also add sales tax on to the local parts store price.

Jeffydrummer

I have a question... I own a 03 maxima SE . I blew my headgasket a while ago . Im trying to buy an engine but I was told to buy from 04 to 06 .. all 05 I can find said Nissan quest ... is it the same as the Maxima . will it fit or does it have to say exactly Nissan maxima . thank you . any helo would be appreciate

03artist

so the head gaskets blew in my 2003 nissan maxima, the shop wants 2500$ to do it, from what ive read on here that sounds rather overpriced. anyways i was wondering if anyone had any info on how to change out the head gaskets or if i'm really stuck paying that price since i don't want to do it if i don't have any idea what to do lol or if anyone knows any where to buy a used engine. thanks for any help and info and hopefully this was ok to post here.

Jeffydrummer

You can find an engine on car-parts.com for $650 to $1000 and you probably will pay around $600-$900 for labor . still youll save yourself some money

SuperStasiu

iTrader: (3)

Couldnt find the thread but was wondering if a 02-03 automatic would work in 00-01 maxima.

Edit: serached some more and found the info needed.
https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...to-2000-a.html

https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...anny-swap.html

cornholio

iTrader: (1)

not sure if it's threadworthy or not but this weekend my e-brake light came on and stayed on. not sure if this is common but if someone could point me in the right direction that'd be great, search isn't great for pulling results on this one.

i am overdue to either tighten my ebrake cable or take a closer look at the calipers. it's doing that thing where i can pull it all the way up with no tension. i don't really NEED the brake to work, but it would be a bonus and at the end of the day i'd like the light to go away.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The light in the dash will come on for 3 reasons.

1 - The alternator has died. But the battery light will also be on if the alternator takes a dump.

2 - The parking brake lever is not all the way down in the released position. Whether the parking brake works or not has nothing to do with the light.

3 - The fluid level in the brake master cylinder is low.

Based on what you said, my money is on # 3.

rickmilehigh

Alright guys, I just recently upgraded my stock speakers. Now I want to throw a bit more bass in there. I am not looking for anything crazy. But I been wanting a bit more bass in there. I don't have bose. I have been thinking lately that maybe I could use the same bose sub slot, and make it myself and cover it with the bose sub cover. BUT here is my question, will it sound good and can I make it possible without doing crazy mods.

If i dont do this i may just get 2 10" or maybe a 12" in a box and throw it in the trunk.

Any opinions and suggestions are welcomed and appreciated.
Thanks in advance!

cornholio

iTrader: (1)

thank you sir. no battery light so i'm hoping it's not #1 (alternator last replaced 60k miles/6 years ago :/ at dealership could still possibly be failing tho). i've pulled the brake and slammed it down a few times so i don't think it's #2. i'll check on #3.

lost_in_texas

I'm surprised I couldn't find anything on this topic. I bought my car in Canada and imported it to the U.S.

Question 1: Can I replace the speedometer insert on my gen 5.5 gauges so it shows Miles in bigger numbers? It has miles in small numbers, but it's easy to get confused currently. If it matters, it has the silvery gauge faces currently.

Question 2: The Odometer and Speedometer are in kilometers. Doesn't matter much, but miles would be better.

Ryan091111

I'm new to these forums. I have an 02 se also got last aug 2013 the guy who owned it bought cheap ebay steel headers. There completely rotting out I had the y pipe off and did sone re welding and $150 in parts and 3 days later finished but now it's 10 times worse and in separate need of headers. I only find the obx ss headers anywhere online I orderd twice from two different sites that sai they were in stock but next day both refunded and now I'm screwed can anyone pls help

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Nissan does not have a parts listing for the insert or decal or whatever it is called, so I don't know where you would get one. I believe that it is glued on to the plastic housing, so removal would be difficult to say the least. Plus you have to pull the needles off of the gauges.

If you went to a junkyard and got an instrument cluster, the mileage reading would be that of the junkyard car and that could be more than what your car has.

To make the speedometer and odometer display miles is a jumper wire soldered in the printed circuit board, but the exact location I don't know.

What I would advise is call a speedometer repair shop (or 2 or 3) and see what they can do for you.

thaseenaug

I have problem with 2001 nissan maxima automatic. First problem is the neutral or park the engine idle is not smooth and it vibrate, when i open the door, it shake due to vibration, i feel vibration in steering wheel also. Then suddenly this vibration go off and on. I also feel low power when i press gas pedal, add it vibrate when press the gas pedal. The fuel economy goes down from 8km/l to 4km/litter. It consume lot of fuel.
I change the spark plugs and air filter and clean the throttle body.
I need your help and suggestions.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

This could be a bad ignition coil or a bad fuel injector.

The ignition coils usually (but not always) cause the check engine light to come on and the code would be P030x. the X would be a number from 1 to 6 for the cylinder number with the problem. Unplug the wire harness connector from each ignition coil one at a time and see if the idle gets worse. If you unplug the wire and the idle does not change, you have found the cylinder with the problem.

This only tells you which cylinder has a problem, it does not tell you the exact problem. To verify if the ignition coil is bad, swap it with the one next to it and see if the problem follows that ignition coil.

It is possible that you could have more than one bad ignition coil.

thaseenaug

Thanks for the reply, I will check the ignition coil and back to you

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Awesome, love when this happens. This is a legit lighting question. And no, we wont kill you for that, and you're one of the few that used this thread being a In this case though, I'd say this merits it's own thread.

Here it is:

https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...-question.html

pchrist

Thank you!!!! I have used enough forums to know to search just haven't seen anything with really clear info.

19neil53

Im told I have no Fuel Injtor Pattern and they think its the ECM, however I sent the ECM to get checked and am told its working ok. Got power to injectors etc

thaseenaug

First i try with the fuel injector cleaner but it does not solve the problem. Then I check the ignition coil by disconnecting the wire. It was the backside first coil which was not working, so i replace with the new OME. Now the vibration is gone. The idle is very smooth.
Thank you so much for your help and keep up the good work.

solis1996

im replaceing the ecm on my 2001 nissan maxima that has no traction control

can i use any non trac ecm for my car? has a diffrent number stamped on it but its non trac like mine

i found a part out guy:confused has one cheap i want to pick up today i wanna know if i can use it

thank you

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

There are a 12 different ECUs in the parts book. Part of the reason for that is there are 3 different standards for emissions that the 2001 was built to.

You have federal emissions, california emissions and usa emissions. Look at the tag under the hood of your car and the donor car and see if they are the same. Then there are the "options" like auto trans or manual trans, etc.

If you get the wrong one that is not a close match, you will have a check engine light that you will never get rid of.

maxiiiboy

Adding to what Dennis said: Yes, there are MANY ECU variants. I would call Courtesy Nissan/Parts and ask him if they have a rebuilt ECU for your car. (They may have it, and they sell them at reasonable prices - around $500 or so). BTW, have the VIN of your vehicle at hand when you call them. Then, you can either buy a rebuilt ECU from them, or get the part# for the ECU that would it your car and try to get it cheaper elsewhere. In either case, call them - you'll get a lot of useful information that way.

Good luck!

dabull69

Hello all. The name is Brandon. I just bought my first max about a month ago. I got a 2001 KT3/Frost SE 5MT fully loaded (meridian, C&C and all available options) with 99k miles. I picked it up for $3800 at a local Subaru dealer. I've been lurking around the forums for a few weeks now trying to build a good base of knowledge. First things first I want to get this thing in tip top shape. So before any real mods I want to do a full tune-up. Based on what I have learned so far this is my current POA.

• Spark plugs and wires (NGK copper v-powers)
• Clean MAF and TB (w/ appropriate cleaners of course)
• Seafoam (brake booster, fuel tank and oil)
• GAB coat hanger method w/ new drop in
• Timing advance +2* (Car gauge pro w/ Vgate ELM327 V2.1)
• Change MT fluid (thinking either Mobil1 or Redline)
• Change oil (GTX)
• Change coolant (Toyota red)
• Fuel filter (Nissan OEM)
• Full DIY grounding kit (Big 3 and all accessories)
• Clean cabin filter
• VIAS fix (jb weld)

In the future I plan on doing

• Headers, Y-Pipe and test pipe
• 4" intake
• Upgraded injectors
• Wideband
• Tuning device (still not sure what to go with here)
• cam
• pulley's

My goal is to get as close to 300 FWHP as I can NA. Then maybe in the far future venture into FI.
Suggestions, comments, concerns?
Basically just looking for input as far as links, suggested retailers and things like that. I've done a ton of searching but most info I'm finding is either outdated or directs me to broken links.
Specific questions I have. Is DaveB still the guy to contact for OEM parts? What options are available for headers? As far as I can tell Cattman, Budget, and Warspeed are all no longer being produced. I'm sure I have many others, but I figure this should be a good start. So lets here what you guys have to say.
Thanks in advance for all your help. I hope to become a valuable asset to the community in whatever way I can.


--Brandon

jcblanco22

My question is pretty straightforward and likely a lot more basic than many of the ones normally asked. Earlier today I noticed that my 2002 Maxima GLE was suddenly emitting a constant flow of air as I drove from underneath both the passenger and driver-sides of the dashboard. This was accompanied by a constant rattling noise from under the dash on the passenger side, where I have come to understand the heater core is. Just looking for some guidance on what this might be. There have not been any leaks on the passenger side floor under the dash by the way. I express my thanks in advance for any insight anyone might be able to provide.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

There are some ducts under the dash to bring air to the various outlets. The only one that I can think of that might be able to cause your problem is the duct that brings the air to the vents above the radio. This duct is dead center in the dash but if it were off, the dash itself would funnel the air to the sides.

When you change the control panel for various air outlets, is the problem only in one setting or is the problem on all settings?

The heater core is is not on the passenger side, it is in the big box-like thing in the center behind the radio. On the passenger side you have the blower motor, the air recirculate intake duct, the glove box, the a/c evaporator core and a few other pieces.

I would remove the glove box and see whatever there is to see up there. run the fan and put your hand you in there and see if you can feel the air.

jcblanco22

Thanks very much Dennis, actually, the air flow is occurring without the A/C actually being on. On the ride home yesterday it now seemed to be exclusive to the driver's side. Thanks very much as well for the clarification on the heater core location, that seems to eliminate one possible problem.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Narrowing it down is progress. There is an air duct to bring air to the dash outlet next to the door.

Turn the fan on and set the dash controls to use the dash outlets and see if you can tell the difference in air flow between the left and right side outlets. A lower fan setting would probably work best for this.

If you set the controls to blow air only on the floor, there should be no air flow out of the dash outlets or from under the dash.

s1ncopas

I have a 00 Maxima GLE, it comes with Bose Audio system, as everybody here should know. The system souns really awesome but, well, it's from 2000 and I was looking for something more up to date. If I change the radio to a newer one, will I loose the Bose audio system or the awesomeness of the sound comes from the Bose amplifier that is in the trunk? I was looking for a touchsreen, bluetooth kinda radio, what can you tell me about it. This is my very first post, I've had the car for 4 months now and I'm not fixing to do any engine mod as it is an automatic version, any other mod that I should know? Thanks in advance for the answers. I don't know if the Pic uploaded correctly but it should be the before and after of my car as for now.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

You need to be aware that a Bose radio and its speakers are not compatible with any other kind of radio. So if you change out the Bose head unit (radio) with a Sony or a Pioneer or a JVC or any other brand, the sound will be distorted if you use the Bose speakers.

You also need to be aware that the radios used by the auto manufacturers (Nissan, Toyota, Ford, Honda, etc) are bigger than the after-market radios. This means that you will have a gap between the dash and the radio.

But don't panic, these details have been dealt with for years and years. There are adapters that take care of these situations.

When you replace the Bose head unit, you will need a mounting kit, wire harness adapters and antenna adapter. The most popular brand for these are Metra (http://www.metraonline.com).

To use the Bose speakers, you will need a line lever adapter. The most popular one is the PAC Roem NIS2 (http://www.pac-audio.com/productDeta...?ProductId=811) If you use the PAC Roem unit, it comes with the wire harness adapters, other brands might not.

As far as which head unit to get, I don't know. You have to make that choice. Go on-line to http://www.Crutchfield.com and search. Crutchfield has probably the best support (both pre and post sales) you will find. If you are not comfortable changing the audio system in your car, buy the radio from them and they will give you so much tech support that you will go crazy.

If you have questions, you can try searching the Maxima.org audio forum (https://maxima.org/forums/audio-electronics-21/) or you can post a question in the5th gen forum.

dcam0326

I'm having some electronics/wiring issues. My headlights are acting up and being typically unreliable. I'll start the car in the morning and the right headlight won't be on, but the left orange blinker light won't be on, either. By applying percussive maintenence (via hitting it with the pad of my hand) gets them to turn on. Also, the backlight in my spedometer and tachometer turn off and on throughout a trip, or sometimes don't turn on at all. After looking at the wiring under the steering wheel, it all seems greasy and sticky. I'm not sure whats on it, but I'm assuming the root of the problem is in the wiring. I can try to take pics tomorrow.



^^I'm assuming this is what I'm dealing with?

maxiiiboy

Was your car flooded/salvaged?

In either case, the fact that the light comes on when you hit it indicates there is an intermittent connection/contact somewhere in the area that you are hitting. If you are hitting the light itself, I would suspect the bulb socket. However, this does not explain the right blinker ....

To track it down, you'll have to check the voltage at the socket (or other place) of failure and trace it back until you find the failure point.

Re. the sticky/greasy wiring: Any chance your speedometer cable is leaking?

dcam0326

I'm starting to think it was a flood car. Not sure if I should proceed to fix anything if that's the case. I'm sure everything else will start to fail soon too. I took a pic of the wires going into the headlight, and it's a disaster:



I'm not sure the spedometer cable is leaking, as I'm not sure which one it is. At a second glance the wiring under the dash looks fairly clean. I'm not convinced that's where the problem lies. How hard is the job of replacing the whole harness for the headlights/dash. I've never attempted any wiring work. I'm pretty close to scrapping this car. There's no way I can sell it as is.

maxiiiboy

You should be able to tell whether the car was flooded: try Carfax or http://www.vinaudit.com/.

From your picture, I can't tell whether wires are just dirty or corroded. In either case, I would clean them. Also, clean the bulb socket and the bulb contact.

How does the rest of the car look like. Does it smell inside? How does the carpet look like? How does the car run? What is the condition of the engine oil and transmission fluid? Are the fluids original or did you replace them ? ...... If you want help, you need to tell us a lot more about the condition and the origins of the car.

dcam0326

No smell, and the car runs fine other than a slightly erratic idle. The fluids appear fine, I've replaced the oil several times and checked the tranny fluid and it appears fine (clear/pinkish). I paid for the vinaudit and there is no history of issues with flood or salvage. It was originally purchased in Massachussetts and stayed there until around 130k where it was in Connecticut. But the wiring harness is pretty dirty and that black crap on it is sticky and hard to remove. Any ideas on something I can maybe spray on there to remove it? I'll check the socket and contact tonight.

edit: Just did it now, here are the pics


^^All cracked and greasy, is this something that you can purchase standalone and splice onto the harness?


^^ This doesn't appear to be corrossion but he area where the blue is appears to be damaged (its lower than the black area, as if some of the black that was on top of it was chipped off). I wasn't rough when removing the headlight/contact so I don't think it was a result of the removal.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Your problem stems from the fact that the rubber boot that covers the connection is broken/destroyed. That big rubber cup that covers the back of the headlight should also be covering and attached to the lamp connector. Whether someone cut it off or whether it deteriorated naturally probably doesn't matter, but a new one needs to be gotten.

As for the blue/green stuff on the back of the lamp, that is corrosion. Scrape it off with a screwdriver or something. Then, because the corrosion has started, you need to coat the contacts with a thick coating of bulb grease. And of course get a new rubber weather seal cup.

george__

iTrader: (1)

how did the plastic burn and melt like that on the connector :|?

dcam0326

Thanks! And thank you Maxiiiboy too. I bought the bulb grease, but I'm having trouble finding the weather seal cup online, anyone know of a place? Otherwise the headlight is working for now, I'll have to replace that rubber gasket when I can find it. Now I just have to find out about the opposite side's orange light. It's supposed to be on always, but it's only turning on when I put on the blinker. Strange...