DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Incorrect. All our cars have 4 mounts, one on each side. The one that bolts onto the transmission is different between the manual and automatic trans cars.

Gadgetflow

Hello all. I recently had an issue with the radiator in my 2000 Maxima. Car overheated, melting the connectors for the o2 sensor that is located right near the radiator. I just had my radiator replaced, but they told me I will need to go into a Nissan dealership to order new connectors to replace the melted ones.

I have a friend's wedding and rehearsal dinner coming up this week and am swamped at work and wont be able to take more time off than I already am. Am I endangering myself or putting my car at a serious risk driving about about 6 hours total over the next few days before I can get into a Nissan Dealership next week, or should I look into a rental/borrowing someones car?

Sorry if I have worded this poorly, I am admittedly not very good with cars. Appreciate the help.

Max2107

Thanks for the clarification.

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Are you seeing any engine light? If no engine light then it is fine to drive. The connectors may be melted, but they are still seeing a signal.

If you do have an engine light get the codes scanned, your local autozone or pepboys or whoever will do it for free. It is very important you write down all of the code numbers as there may be more than one. They typically will be P and then a 4 digit number. Post the codes up here and we can give better insight.

The biggest risk you have is one of the primary O2 sensors is not getting a signal and your car's air to fuel ratio is out of whack, which can lead to misfiring. How is it running?

Max2107

Have you done ES motor mount bushing swaps?

losifanatic

Asking here as I didn't want to start a new thread just for this. Bought another 03 maxima. This on had the bose system but someone replaced the head unit with a cheap pioneer. It sounds good. Now the steering wheel controls don't work as the radio I believe doesn't support it. That's fine and dandy but the trip button on the steering wheel doesn't work the computer in the dash either. Is that from the radio install? If so is there a way to fix it? I would like to get it to work as I use it for my distance to empty and love knowing the outdoor temp.
Any input on this would be much appreciated. Thank you

melsec

Last year I had my a/c serviced (new freon, etc.). The a/c worked for about 3 weeks and then the cool air started fading away. Took it back to the shop where they checked it out and got it working again. A/c worked for about 3 weeks and then the cool air faded. Back to the shop; this time one of the techs said he moved something (a sensor or something) and cold air started working again. Unfortunately this guy doesn't work at the shop anymore. So about 3 weeks later, a/c fades again. But it was fall so I put off going back to the shop until spring. The fan works and blows air, the heater worked fine through the winter. Last month I took it in and they checked it, said freon looked "a little low" so they recharged (they never mentioned low freon or any leaks last year after they serviced it). Now it's been about 3 weeks and the cold air is starting to fade again. Does anyone have any suggestions about what might be happening? I live in the Washington DC area and I can't make it through summer without a/c. Thank you!

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

All symptoms definitely sound like a leak in the system. I would take it back to the shop and have them test and check for leaks. It seems the shop isn't very good in troubleshooting and diagnosing issues. Make sure they are fully aware of the complete history.

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

I have a 2k which doesn't have the steering wheel controls, but it sounds like it is just a wiring issue. I don't see how the wiring for that would be related to the bose head unit. Perhaps the previous owner disconnected all wires from the steering wheel controls or accidentally disconnected the one for the trip distance. Time to do some electrical troubleshooting...a good place to start, the Factory Service Manual.

http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2003/

Check the EL (Electrical) section and start tracing wires.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

To add a little additional info to what foodmanry said, you can go the the maxima.org audio & electronics forum and look through there. I think this issue pops up when replacing a bose head unit. Here is the link:

https://maxima.org/forums/audio-electronics-21/

dcam0326

Hey guys,

I have kinda an odd request. Does anyone know of any *cheap* shock + spring (preferably pre assembled) assemblys? I'm looking to replace the front shocks and springs on my car but I'm strapped for cash, which alone isn't the reason, but I don't expect the cars engine in transmission to last long enough to need brand new OEM ones. I really only need this car to be driveable for another 2 years or so and my current struts are so shot its scary.

losifanatic

EBay has prebuilt struts for around $280 for all 4

Exon

I recently bought a 20000 GXE I bought it as a daily and so far so good, the other day I felt like testing the acceleration on it just to see what it does and I noticed that if I accelerate while giving the car a modest yet still aggressive type of push on the gas pedal the car will accelerate quickly and smoothly and gain speed at a good rate

But if I floor the gas pedals the car revs but acceleration lags for a few seconds (about 4 seconds) before the car will actually shift and start to gain momentum, I'm just curious to know if there is an issue here and if so what it could be or is this normal behavior for a car of this age?


Thanks in advance for any helpful replies, much appreciated.

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

It could be normal or the transmission slipping. Do you notice it happening in any specific gear change, is a gear change happening during the lag or not?

chrisbat200

Can someone please help me! I have a 2005 Nissan Maxima, and for some reason when I turn on the front headlights at night, both rear lights stopped working! They only turn on when I press the brake. I checked the rear bulbs and nothing was wrong, I changed them just in case but it is still not working properly. Also! since the day it stopped working, the just a small section of the dash (under the Navigation System) doesn't turn on either.

Exon

I haven't had the car long and so I've only "tested" this issue twice, one from a standstill and once while I was already going about 30 MPH so I don't think it's specific to one gear. Also when the lag is happening the gear isn't changing, once it does make the change acceleration begins. I hope this clears it up a bit of not let me know and I will try to find a better more thorough way of explaining if possible, thanks again ow

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

First try posting in the correct forum which I believe you have a 6th gen.

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Well you are either slipping between gear changes 1 to 2 and 2 to 3 or this is normal. Sometimes, depending on throttle position and speed the car takes a bit of time to decide what to do with the floored pedal. A transmission slip should be noticeable with the tach going up sharply and the car not really moving any faster, but rather loosing speed instead until the transmission grabs the gear.

5GAEMAX

How do I know which trim/package I have on my 03 Maxima SE? Is there definite differences in just having a regular SE model, SE Meridian, or SE Titanium? Or Both? Also, do I tell I have LSD without doing a burnout lol. Can I tell by the VIN? Jacking the car up and spinning the wheels?

I have heated seats, heated steering wheel. Memory seats. Metal "Maxima" door sills. Digital compass in mirror.

Hard to find a thread that really defines each model and trim. Thanks in advance!

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

VIN Decoder.

https://maxima.org/forums/vindecoder.php

losifanatic

Ok another weird question for you. I want to put a 2000 maxima ac control (the digital one) in my 03 which has a digital ac control in it. I want to replace it as I installed a double din radio and the only color option is the 2000 and 2001 dark gray or black. I went with the dark gray and want my ac controls to match.
So first question is will it work? Second what in the heck is the AMB button for? It's not on either of my 2003s and my 2000 has a manual ac controller.

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Don't know about first question.

Second question, "AMB" stands for ambient as is the temperature of the ambient air outside the vehicle.

losifanatic

Thank you!

Chrisousley

I recently bought a 2001 maxima se and it wasn't running at all when I bought it, got it running but it shuts itself off and idles rough. It runs great as long as I keep the rpms up but as soon as the drop the car cuts off, and the car barely has enough power to get up some ramps. I was getting a p1320 code and replaced all the coils and plugs and now after about the 3rd time of it cutting off I get a p0300 code what can cause this?

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

P0300 and P1320 codes are both mis-fire codes. You might be having problems with the crankshaft sensor at the flywheel (CKPS(POS)) as it is used by the ECU (car's computer) to determine the spark timing.

You can start by cleaning it, sometimes crud buildup interferes.

In the service manual, go to section EC page 346 and follow the diagnostics there.
Section EC - http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2001/EC.pdf

Link to complete service manual:
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2001/

Chrisousley

I pulled it out and wiped it off it had a few little metal shavings on it put it back in and still the same thing. Could the sensor be bad or worse since there was metal on it

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Some metal shavings are normal. They come from the starter gear meshing into the flywheel gear. They are part of what I called crud buildup.

If the flywheel sensor is dead, the engine won't start. But do the tests in the service manual, especially test # 9 on page 349.

Chrisousley

Would that also be the reason the car has no power

aggarwal18

Hi All

I am new to this forum. So really do not know much about the posting rules.
I just replaced my AC compressor with the high pressure hose for the power steering on my 2005 Nissan Maxima. After maybe a day I was running low on fuel(the low fuel light was on) and when I tried starting the car it stalled. I turned off the AC and then started the car it started and then I could turn the AC on but the check engine light came on. I went to advance auto parts to see the codes and they gave me 3 codes
P0340
P0726
C1120

I am not sure if it is something that the repair shop messed up or what is going on. Any help on this topic will be really helpful.

maxiiiboy

Try to post your question on the proper forum. Your car is a 6th-Gen.

aggarwal18

Ohh thanks. Will look into that then.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The no power could be the engine misfiring. Could that be caused by a failing crankshaft sensor? Possibly. I am beginning to wonder about the MAF sensor being the no power problem.

Winnerone23

Ok, I'm not big on posting questions that can be searched.. So after searching and getting loads of info, I still need more..

I just picked up a 2k 3.0 SE.. It's been sitting for 1.5yrs.. Just got a new battery, fluid changes, and full inspection. It has 34,000 miles on it!

It was pretty sluggish and lagging, to start.
MAF sensor has been cleaned and premium gas ran thru it. Mucho performance has picked up but got the ole PO171 yesterday.

So now I'm after a MAF sensor. Which in lays my question..

Is there a preferred brand/make/model of MAF sensor to get? OEM 100% or aftermarket?

There are a couple different options:
22680AD201
226802Y001
4 pin or 5 pin...

I see some with and without the little wire/diode looking part on them..

Mine has 5 pins but my plug, on top, going into it only has 4 wires. The 5th slot has a plug in it instead of a wire.
Also, mine doesn't have the wire/diode thingy on it, but the little holders where it could have been?

I don't know if it's aftermarket or the OG MAF sensor.

Any help to get me pointed in the right direction of beans and part number, would be great!

Thanks
Troy

Winnerone23

Maybe a pic would help?

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The 2000 and the 2001 use the MAF that is part number 22680-2Y001. It is the one that doesn't have the thermistor (the wire/diode thingy) in it. The engine does have one, but not in the MAF itself. This is why the connector has one less wire in it.

Nissan added the thermistor in the MAF sensor for the 2002 & 2003 models and doubled the price. Nissan now recommends this one for all 5th generation Maximas, but the thermistor is not used ans there is no wiring for it.

While more expensive, it is recommended to get the MAF from the dealer or a on-line Nissan parts dealer. The ones from local parts stores like Autozone are hit or miss for quality and long life.

For on-line ordering, you can try
nissanpartsasap.com
courtesyparts.com
nissanpartsdeal.com

george__

iTrader: (1)

^
Some early 2002 used the 4 pin maf (without the thermistor) with a ECU upgrade (there's a TSB)

jay78

hi peeps! well i have a max 2002 and the idle was kind of crazy going up and down but sometime it was sou low that the car turn off well i started cleaning the throttle and the maf sensor and now it stays very high 1,700 goes down a little i dont now if i messed up the maf or throttle need reprogram ( maf i disconnect while turn on and it stays the same sou figure its blown. question it suppose to do that if its blown? throttle position sensor its bad too but was when i did cleaning. i am planing buying maf and position this week should it fix the problem or i will have to do something else thanks!

Winnerone23

Thank you sir!

Appreciate the info. MAF sensor ordered.

Chrisousley

When I bought the car they had pulled the MAFsensor out and had the hole covered with red duct tape, I replaced the MAF sensor when I replaced the battery and starter

Chrisousley

[QUOTE=Chrisousley;9063216]When I bought the car they had pulled the MAFsensor out and had the hole covered with red duct tape, I replaced the MAF sensor when I replaced the battery and starter[/QUOTE. Replaced the chankshaft positioning sensor and it ran OK for a little while until I drove it up the hill still has no power and still getting the P0300 code