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Hey guys. First off, obligatory apologies, I have no idea if my words are allowed here, I did try searching various wordings of what I was looking for but wasn't able to find exactly what I was hoping for. That could, conceivably be because I'm awful at forums. Like for real.
Anyway, I'm very new to the Nissan crowd. Approved a loan this morning drove three hours, and drove a new-to-me 2002 Nissan Maxima the three hours home. Hooray, first car ever!
Car's great, I love it, and I love the fact that I love it despite the fact that it's older than I ever thought I would put up with. It's truly wonderful.
But I'm trying to think forward and plan some things out. To put it simply, I want to remove the Navigation system and install an aftermarket stereo along with new speakers, because the current one's sound pretty garbled. This one is more opinion of wiser people, what stereo would be best? Looking for bluetooth, phone, backup camera, navigation (Google Maps, is that a thing?). And if I put in a new stereo, what do I do with the stock, the one below navigation? I imagine I'd have to put climate controls there, unless we could somehow control them with the fancy new stereo as well. Once again, I have no idea what I'm talking about.
After that, is there any way to combine Push to Start, Keyless entry, and Remote Start? Because that would be amazing. All three of them look so darn neat but nothing I have seen just does all three. It's always keyless and Push to start or remote start and keyless. Ugh.
Thanks. And sorry.
So I have an 02 Maxima that unfortunately came with the "blue light" headlights already installed. Ive never been a big fan of them, and the "reputable" shop the previous owner had install them didn't know what they were doing. I've searched for over a month now for the solution to this big mess I unknowingly bought, and after 3 Nissan techs, 1 master tech, 2 tickets, and many a sleepless nights trying to figure out WTF is wrong I am begging for help. Little long so bare with me....
This all started after I had a blow out on the driver side. The HID went out on that side. I bought a new bulb had it put in, but they couldn't get it to come back on. Checked all the wires, ballast, fuses, even the relays....all doing what they are suppose to. Few days later the passenger side headlight went out. Couldn't get it to come back on. When I got back in my car the next day the passenger side light came right back on, but with an added feature of every bump, slightly more than usual vibration it will go right back out again. Hence the tickets, and me going a little crazy!
Right now I have a high beam on my driver side that will work and the iffy passenger. Now I know most would say just switch back to factory. Oh boy how much I wish I could..... The "reputable" installer cut every plug that went to it even the blinkers! (Already had that problem solved though). I had to take the high beam off my passenger side and install it on the driver all to have a light on that side (can't afford another ticket) because that was something else they didn't think it needed. Oh but it's getting better I guess, last week as I'm driving down the interstate ALL of my lights went out. Had to cut my car on and off a few times before I could get either one to come back on.
I have absolutely no idea what to do to fix this and neither do some professionals. I've looked and I don't see any wires that are messed up. Still when they check it with a meter it is getting power. 2 new headlight relays, and all new fuses, and I have no clue where to turn next!
I am open for any suggestion. Please someone tell me what I need to do to fix this! Thanks
This person has started a duplicate thread in the main section. Use the other thread to help him.
Has anyone got any idea how to disconnect the O2 sensors from the wiring harness ? That connector has me baffled :-) Thanks for any help. I've tried everything I can think of.
Has anyone got any idea how to disconnect the O2 sensors from the wiring harness ? That connector has me baffled :-) Thanks for any help. I've tried everything I can think of.
you have to push the lock tab down until it clicks.
you have to push the lock tab down until it clicks.
Thank you, I didn't try pushing it straight down. I pushed in and pulled it out I tried a screw driver and I was just short of smashing it with a sledge hammer :-) Now if only there were a slick way to get to all of the clips along the way. Again, I thank you.
I have to 2000 SE. I noticed the car is making a weird sound when I shift gears. It also makes the sound when I stop a lights some time. Everyone once in a while I hear a sharp bang that I can feel on the peddle. I'm thinking it might be a bad motor mount. I don't think this would have anything to do with the transmission. The sound come from somewhere in front of the passenger side.
Hey new here and purchasing some custom wheel spacers for my 03 I35 but need help with the width. The wheels going on are Avant Garde F240's 20x10" 10 offset front & 20x10.5" 0 offset rear and yes I already have a fender roller and heat gun. Please help.
I have a quick . Ive a blown head gasket on my 03 maxima. I found a i35 motor with low low mileage. I was to swap it. I know it's the same engine. but I'm just wondering would I have to swap the oil pan .. or is it just a drop in thing ?? thank you
I have a quick . Ive a blown head gasket on my 03 maxima. I found a i35 motor with low low mileage. I was to swap it. I know it's the same engine. but I'm just wondering would I have to swap the oil pan .. or is it just a drop in thing ?? thank you
No. The i35 is the same body and suspension, so the oil pan and engine mounts are the same.
Hi everyone, New to forum but have had Nissan's for the past 15 years and love to do my own work on them. My current Nissan is a 00 Maxima, great car for a great price but i got the oh so fun p0420 & p0430 codes . I have been reading around and was considering many different ways to fix this problem until a couple of days ago, my light went off for two days (about 2 drive cycles). Now please correct me if i am wrong but those are hard codes, no? I dont understand why the light went off and now i am unsure of where to start troubleshooting. The guy i go to for things above my head jumped right to the cats but after reading around i dont feel thats the right place to start. I have to get this car inspected by the end of the month so i dont have much time to play around. Any advice would be amazing. Btw, no other codes coming up and no exhaust leak found at muffler shop if that helps any.
Thank you all!
Hi everyone, New to forum but have had Nissan's for the past 15 years and love to do my own work on them. My current Nissan is a 00 Maxima, great car for a great price but i got the oh so fun p0420 & p0430 codes . I have been reading around and was considering many different ways to fix this problem until a couple of days ago, my light went off for two days (about 2 drive cycles). Now please correct me if i am wrong but those are hard codes, no? I dont understand why the light went off and now i am unsure of where to start troubleshooting. The guy i go to for things above my head jumped right to the cats but after reading around i dont feel thats the right place to start. I have to get this car inspected by the end of the month so i dont have much time to play around. Any advice would be amazing. Btw, no other codes coming up and no exhaust leak found at muffler shop if that helps any.
Thank you all!
Nissan set their standards pretty tight and you will get codes from the O2 sensors that go away because things become borderline. There isn't much you can do to avoid fixing this, but maybe you can milk it along for a while.
The real fix is is to gut the pre-cats, which is essentially getting rid of them. Pre-cats are used to control emissions until the main catalytic converter warms up. Some people are afraid to do this because of the annual inspections. It is possible that eliminating the pre-cats could cause the car to fail an inspection. But this would be based on A) your state uses a tail pipe sniffer and B) the fact that the main cat is about to fail also.
You need to find out exactly what/how the inspection works. Very states few use actual tail pipe sniffers on cars made with OBD II. They hook up a code reader and see what is there. Getting rid of the pre-cats isn't going to make one bit of difference here. What they look for is any check engine (Nissan calls them DTC) codes and certain "systems" being not ready. Some states allow you to have one not ready system.
You might be able to get by for a while by putting spark plug foulers on the down sensors. All these are are spacers to keep the O2 sensor backed out from the exhaust gas. Like so many things, this may or may not work, so it is like an experiment. At least it is not very expensive.
Hi guys, I just made an account because I need some help. I have a 2002 Maxima and I will be needing tires soon. Because of this I want to get new rims as well. I like the style of the niche verona m150 and the vossen cv3 (not looking to spend that much though pertaining to vossens). What I really want to know is for an 18x8.5 wheel, does anyone know a good concave wheel or a good wheel in their opinion that would look good on the Maxima? Right now I am really stuck on the niche verona but I'm not sure about how concave it is, I don't know too much about rims I mainly just stick to car audio. Any help is appreciated.
I want to add an aftermarket amp and subs to my 5th gen, I am looking for some suggestions on the best way to do that. I want to keep the stock bose radio
I want to add an aftermarket amp and subs to my 5th gen, I am looking for some suggestions on the best way to do that. I want to keep the stock bose radio
This is the set up on my car it has a pionner head unit but u could make it work with the stock bose
I just purchased a 2002 Maxima SE 6 speed with 123K miles. It seems to run VERY well. Engine is almost silent, pulls hard, and gets into every gear with absoulutly no problems. This morning on my way home the SES light came on. An hour ago I took a trip down the street to an auto parts store to use their OBD2 scanner. I also am not sure on the oil consumption significance. I did an oil change after purchase with 5w30 Penzoil Platinum Syn. I have 150 miles on the change so a little early to tell but no oil loss yet. These were the results.
I am seeing that this could simply be from the gas cap. I'm certain I put the cap on tight when I filled up 2 days ago. I erased the codes to get the light off and gave the cap a few more twist and it didn't come back on when I drove home. Do you believe based on the code(s) that it could lead to a significant engine problem or probably just a simple fix?
Thanks for any advice in advance.
Last edited by 6MTMaxAttack; 02-26-2016 at 12:10 PM.
Ignoring this code (P0442) will not cause any engine problems. This code is entirely about pollution control. You have a leak somewhere in the Evap system (gas cap, evaporation canister, one of the lines/tubes, etc.), so some gas fumes could be escaping and polluting the atmosphere. For details, see page EC-359 of the FSM.
However, you should not ignore this code because in many states it will prevent you from passing the periodical smog inspection.
Ignoring this code (P0442) will not cause any engine problems. This code is entirely about pollution control. You have a leak somewhere in the Evap system (gas cap, evaporation canister, one of the lines/tubes, etc.), so some gas fumes could be escaping and polluting the atmosphere. For details, see page EC-359 of the FSM.
However, you should not ignore this code because in many states it will prevent you from passing the periodical smog inspection.
I appreciate the reply! The SES just came back on while I was on the highway. Precisely when I shifted into 6th it lit up. Looks like I might have to just live with the SES being on the dash and buy my own OBD2 scanner to make sure new codes aren't being thrown every once in awhile. I'm not in a state the does emission tests.
BTW how serious is the pre cat problem? Will I smell the sulfur smell before the pre cat causes harm (if it does at all/mixed opinions). I'd like to do headers back but it's not something I'd be able to do in the driveway. I'm showing exhaust shops costing $300-500 labor to install.
02 Maxima SE (157k miles). The other day BOTH of my rear disc brakes started dragging so much they were smoking when I got out of the car. Nothing noticeable in the pedal, I wouldn't have noticed anything if not for the smoke. When I jacked up the car only the rear wheels are locked (with engine off). I checked the e-brake and it looks like it is returning to zero (looking at the arm/spring assembly behind the rotor). I loosened the bleed nut and bleed the line, but it is still locked up. I was thinking it might be the lines, but from what I can tell each side has its own line all the way back to the master cylinder.
02 Maxima SE (157k miles). The other day BOTH of my rear disc brakes started dragging so much they were smoking when I got out of the car. Nothing noticeable in the pedal, I wouldn't have noticed anything if not for the smoke. When I jacked up the car only the rear wheels are locked (with engine off). I checked the e-brake and it looks like it is returning to zero (looking at the arm/spring assembly behind the rotor). I loosened the bleed nut and bleed the line, but it is still locked up. I was thinking it might be the lines, but from what I can tell each side has its own line all the way back to the master cylinder.
Any thoughts? Any else I should check?
Your rear calipers have seized up. Take them apart, clean up, and lubricate the pins.
Hi all, I picked up a 2000 Maxima to use as my winter car and I absolutely love it, to the point that I'm considering trading in my summer car in for a newer Maxima. Anyway, the car only came with one key and the other day it experienced an, erm, accident. The side that I assume has the security feature got cut off, so now the car won't start. It just turns over but all the lights come on, so it looks like I need a new key.
What are my options? I had an Oldsmobile years ago that had a security chip but the key was failing. I was able to install a bypass in the security system for a few dollars with some resistors and saved buying a new key. Does a similar bypass work for the security system or the key itself?
If not, what ballpark cost should I be looking at for a key? I know on some newer Nissans (my wife has an 09 Sentra) that the keys can be hellaciously expensive. I'd hope mine my be cheaper since it's older, but I've never had to have a brand new key made for a car that I can't at least start up and take it where it needs to be.
Hi all, I picked up a 2000 Maxima to use as my winter car and I absolutely love it, to the point that I'm considering trading in my summer car in for a newer Maxima. Anyway, the car only came with one key and the other day it experienced an, erm, accident. The side that I assume has the security feature got cut off, so now the car won't start. It just turns over but all the lights come on, so it looks like I need a new key.
What are my options? I had an Oldsmobile years ago that had a security chip but the key was failing. I was able to install a bypass in the security system for a few dollars with some resistors and saved buying a new key. Does a similar bypass work for the security system or the key itself?
If not, what ballpark cost should I be looking at for a key? I know on some newer Nissans (my wife has an 09 Sentra) that the keys can be hellaciously expensive. I'd hope mine my be cheaper since it's older, but I've never had to have a brand new key made for a car that I can't at least start up and take it where it needs to be.
I am not aware of anybody ever being able to bypass the security on a Maxima, so you may be out of luck on this.
As for getting another key, you have 2 choices and neither is particularly cheap. Since you can't drive the car, you can get a private locksmith to come out and make you a key (or two) and program them to your car. Call and get quotes but don't be surprised by prices upwards of $200.
The other choice is a dealer. They can also make you a key and program it. But you will have to have the car towed to the dealer and the dealer prices are higher than what a private locksmith will charge for coming to your house. But call the dealer and see what they will charge. Sometimes you find a dealer that is not sky high.
Hello
Quick question, I'm trying to replace a broken part in my car but I do not know what this part is called or where to get it for a good price.
Thank you
Hello
Quick question, I'm trying to replace a broken part in my car but I do not know what this part is called or where to get it for a good price.
Thank you
Hi all. Have a 2000 Maxima that I'm getting noise from when I'm in 1st - 3rd gear. Transmission mechanic says it's possibly the bearing and/or gears. For the bearing kit he quoted me 200-700 depending on whether the trans is a limited slip or not. The face-plate says my trans is RS5F50A FG38. My question is:
1. Did 2000 Maximas have the LSD? Are there any other types of transmissions they might have put in this model? The little research I've done says they didn't start putting the LSD in until 2001
2. Does anyone have the part#'s for a bearing kit? Or any recommendations on what I should get to avoid problems?
3. Is there anything else I should have the mechanic look at while I have the transmission apart?
Thank you for any help you can provide. This is a great forum and has helped me out a lot.
Seems my small leak emission code is more severe than I thought. I'm getting like 230-240 miles per tank it's all city driving because both my jobs are within 15 miles of my home. But 12/13mpg is ridiculous. Hope this is a relatively simple and not too expensive fix.
Seems my small leak emission code is more severe than I thought. I'm getting like 230-240 miles per tank it's all city driving because both my jobs are within 15 miles of my home. But 12/13mpg is ridiculous. Hope this is a relatively simple and not too expensive fix.
Car seems to run great tho so I'm confused.
So any other codes, etc? Have you looked into fixing that leak, this an EVAP leak?
Just upgraded from my 4th gen to a 5.5 gen (2003 GLE) the other day, but I'm trying to figure out a problem I am having with the driver side power seat. I don't think the motor is worn out or "stuck", however, I think the seat is not getting any power whatsoever.
No noise when trying to move the seat in any direction and also when I turn the seat heater on, the light turns on, but there is apparently no power going to the seat because it never gets warm.
In all honesty, if I can get the seat to tilt back, I would be a happy camper, but I'm thinking if I can figure out the "no power to the seat" problem, that would fix my seat heater problem as well.
Just upgraded from my 4th gen to a 5.5 gen (2003 GLE) the other day, but I'm trying to figure out a problem I am having with the driver side power seat. I don't think the motor is worn out or "stuck", however, I think the seat is not getting any power whatsoever.
No noise when trying to move the seat in any direction and also when I turn the seat heater on, the light turns on, but there is apparently no power going to the seat because it never gets warm.
In all honesty, if I can get the seat to tilt back, I would be a happy camper, but I'm thinking if I can figure out the "no power to the seat" problem, that would fix my seat heater problem as well.
Any help is much appreciated!
You probably have a burned out heating pad in the seat cushion. Unfortunately it happens way too often. Is there no heat from both low & high settings?
But get out your voltmeter and do some checking. Pop out the switch but don't unplug it. Turn the ignition key on and flip the switch to the low heat position and check if you have 12 volts on the solid gray wire. Flip the switch to high heat position and see if you have 12 volts on the gray/red stripe wire. If you have voltage, then the heating pads is burned out, most likely the one in the seat cushion.
Also, look under the seat and check that the wiring is OK. Maybe something pulled the connectors out.
The seat moving back & forth, up & down and tilting are all separate motors. Having 3 bad motors would be rather unusual, so look for wiring problems under the seat. The seat gets its power from the same place as the power windows, so before you ask about fuses...
You probably have a burned out heating pad in the seat cushion. Unfortunately it happens way too often. Is there no heat from both low & high settings?
But get out your voltmeter and do some checking. Pop out the switch but don't unplug it. Turn the ignition key on and flip the switch to the low heat position and check if you have 12 volts on the solid gray wire. Flip the switch to high heat position and see if you have 12 volts on the gray/red stripe wire. If you have voltage, then the heating pads is burned out, most likely the one in the seat cushion.
Also, look under the seat and check that the wiring is OK. Maybe something pulled the connectors out.
The seat moving back & forth, up & down and tilting are all separate motors. Having 3 bad motors would be rather unusual, so look for wiring problems under the seat. The seat gets its power from the same place as the power windows, so before you ask about fuses...
Thanks for the info! After looking at it, I would agree that the heating pad/pads are probably burnt out. No biggie really. I suppose the heated steering wheel will have to do.
As for the power seat, I'm gonna take a look under there and see what I can find. It seems a lot more harder to get under these seats than the ones in my 4th gen. >_< I suppose It's time for me to go take a seat out.
Success! There was a plug that was unplugged and that fixed the power seat issue. It was killing my lower back having to sit straight up like I was doing. I also found a $20 bill under the seat from the previous owner. Haaaaaaay!
Success! There was a plug that was unplugged and that fixed the power seat issue. It was killing my lower back having to sit straight up like I was doing. I also found a $20 bill under the seat from the previous owner. Haaaaaaay!
You have any experience changing those heating pads out? Can't say it bothers me too much though.
I've never done it. Heated seats in Texas are not very popular with 110º heat. But from what I've read, you have to know how to so upholstery work. You have to peel off the outer leather layer that is stapled on with what is known as hog rings in order to do it.
Originally Posted by Noladol
If you make your way into Colorado Springs I'll buy you a couple of drinks!
Believe it or not, I may be in your area next month. Will be on vacation and plan on hitting up Pikes Peak and the Royal Gorge
I replaced the manual transmission in my gen 5 maxima after a failed bearing trashed some gears. Before I put the new 5 speed in I made sure to sand the bell housing and the engine block so there would be good contact and a grounding connection. After getting it all back together the starter was clicking. I had replaced the starter about 3 months ago because the original was having intermediate issues (worked 9/10 times in practice, still passes bench tests). Both starters have been tested but have the same issue and both have been tested in car with two separate batteries. Bought a brand new starter yesterday with same noise. Did voltage drop and looks good on main cables, it went to 12 to around 5 when attempting to start on the trigger cable on the solenoid (I think on voltage, did this last week)
I replaced the manual transmission in my gen 5 maxima after a failed bearing trashed some gears. Before I put the new 5 speed in I made sure to sand the bell housing and the engine block so there would be good contact and a grounding connection. After getting it all back together the starter was clicking. I had replaced the starter about 3 months ago because the original was having intermediate issues (worked 9/10 times in practice, still passes bench tests). Both starters have been tested but have the same issue and both have been tested in car with two separate batteries. Bought a brand new starter yesterday with same noise. Did voltage drop and looks good on main cables, it went to 12 to around 5 when attempting to start on the trigger cable on the solenoid (I think on voltage, did this last week)
A 5 volt reading while trying to start the car indicates that the starter is drawing more amps from the battery than it can supply. This is in effect a semi short circuit. A battery that is not fully charged or that is going bad (the plates inside the battery are warping and shorting to each other).
I don't think it is the battery, though. I also don't think it is a bad starter. The reason for this is the clicking that it is doing. It is a rapid, repeating click. I think you have the engine locked up. Something is not right. You may have installed the clutch or transmission incorrectly or maybe the transmission is locked up.
See if the engine will turn over by hand. Put a wrench on the harmonic balancer bolt (with an extender bar) and see if you can rotate the engine. The crankshaft rotates clockwise when viewing the harmonic balancer.
A 5 volt reading while trying to start the car indicates that the starter is drawing more amps from the battery than it can supply. This is in effect a semi short circuit. A battery that is not fully charged or that is going bad (the plates inside the battery are warping and shorting to each other).
I don't think it is the battery, though. I also don't think it is a bad starter. The reason for this is the clicking that it is doing. It is a rapid, repeating click. I think you have the engine locked up. Something is not right. You may have installed the clutch or transmission incorrectly or maybe the transmission is locked up.
See if the engine will turn over by hand. Put a wrench on the harmonic balancer bolt (with an extender bar) and see if you can rotate the engine. The crankshaft rotates clockwise when viewing the harmonic balancer.
I pulled the starter and watched the fly wheel and belts move while pushing the car 15 feet in fifup. I ran the starter while it was removed and it made the same noise. It appeared that the solenoid was engaging but the starter wasn't spinning. I tested 2 starters with this on my maxima battery with these results. I attached the leads up to my fully charged jeep battery andadded a ground to one of the 8mm on top of the starter to the battery ground, it made a similar noise but turned slowly.
I'm thinking about getting new cables for the battery.
I have a 2003 6 speed vq35 and it needs a full engine wiring harness Ive been searching all over and cant find one but I can find lots of 5 speed wiring harness is there any difference?
I have a 2003 6 speed vq35 and it needs a full engine wiring harness Ive been searching all over and cant find one but I can find lots of 5 speed wiring harness is there any difference?
Massive difference, the 5MT will not work since it's from a previous generation ECU, so it will require a lot of modification, and probably wont run with your current 03 MT ECU.
its funny you would ask that, be careful who helps you jump your car. I was having trouble with my alternator and it would drain my battery overnight, so a coworker of mine, coincidentally a mechanical technician helped me, when he pulled the positive jumper off, it got stuck on the cable so he ripped it up and my main power cable went with it, then he jammed it back down on the terminal and that was the last time it ran https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif
01-04-2016, 10:04 PM
. I have been reading around and was considering many different ways to fix this problem until a couple of days ago, my light went off for two days (about 2 drive cycles). Now please correct me if i am wrong but those are hard codes, no? I dont understand why the light went off and now i am unsure of where to start troubleshooting. The guy i go to for things above my head jumped right to the cats but after reading around i dont feel thats the right place to start. I have to get this car inspected by the end of the month so i dont have much time to play around. Any advice would be amazing. Btw, no other codes coming up and no exhaust leak found at muffler shop if that helps any.
it's all city driving because both my jobs are within 15 miles of my home. But 12/13mpg is ridiculous. Hope this is a relatively simple and not too expensive fix. 
