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I need someone to explain to me how the automatic windows work exactly.
i know you have to hold down the button and they roll down.... but they seem to operate in two modes at random....
1. i hold it and it goes down all the way (after one click or two or three???)
2. first click and hold, it goes down only about 3 inches and it seems to be exactly the same each time that happens....
wtf is going on?
I think you motor is on the way out, mine go straight down, no modes
I need someone to explain to me how the automatic windows work exactly.
i know you have to hold down the button and they roll down.... but they seem to operate in two modes at random....
1. i hold it and it goes down all the way (after one click or two or three???)
2. first click and hold, it goes down only about 3 inches and it seems to be exactly the same each time that happens...
wtf is going on?
If your car is a 2002 or a 2003, try the reset button. Otherwise my guess is that the switch is bad.
My last Maxima met its unfortunate end two years ago. Since then I have been looking for a replacement but I am picky and have been holding out for a 6 speed with HLSD. After realizing that's nearly impossible last week I picked up a 2002 6 speed. Bad news it has 200+ miles on it, good news I still have my wrecked maxima, and friends who are professional mechanics.
So in a round about way I am a noob all over again, and I got the fever for more 5.5 gen. Tomorrow I will be over hauling the suspension. Tokico Illuminas, H&R springs, ES sway bar bushings, control arms, Progress RSB, and Michelin Pilots. As well as new pads, rotors, two rear calipers and a hub assembly.
In 2-3 weeks I will be "assisting" with the engine swap/rebuild. I am also paying to add a stock HLSD while its out. I am interested in forged pistons because I plan to boost later. I have found plenty of forged pistons for these VQ35 engines but they all seem to adjust the compression ratio. I would prefer to run at the stock 10.3 if possible but I have been unable to find any forged pistons at that ratio. I plan to boost with NOS and I don't plan on using it often . Hence the reason I want to run at stock compression.
My question is do they make forged pistons for these maxima's that keep stock compression ratios? Would the higher or lower compression pistons available for the 350Z's even work right in this maxima? Is this a bad idea?
My last Maxima met its unfortunate end two years ago. Since then I have been looking for a replacement but I am picky and have been holding out for a 6 speed with HLSD. After realizing that's nearly impossible last week I picked up a 2002 6 speed. Bad news it has 200+ miles on it, good news I still have my wrecked maxima, and friends who are professional mechanics.
So in a round about way I am a noob all over again, and I got the fever for more 5.5 gen. Tomorrow I will be over hauling the suspension. Tokico Illuminas, H&R springs, ES sway bar bushings, control arms, Progress RSB, and Michelin Pilots. As well as new pads, rotors, two rear calipers and a hub assembly.
In 2-3 weeks I will be "assisting" with the engine swap/rebuild. I am also paying to add a stock HLSD while its out. I am interested in forged pistons because I plan to boost later. I have found plenty of forged pistons for these VQ35 engines but they all seem to adjust the compression ratio. I would prefer to run at the stock 10.3 if possible but I have been unable to find any forged pistons at that ratio. I plan to boost with NOS and I don't plan on using it often . Hence the reason I want to run at stock compression.
My question is do they make forged pistons for these maxima's that keep stock compression ratios? Would the higher or lower compression pistons available for the 350Z's even work right in this maxima? Is this a bad idea?
Thanks
You need to do a lot of reading if you have these questions and goals. There's a nitrous section with lots of info.
You need to do a lot of reading if you have these questions and goals. There's a nitrous section with lots of info.
Or you can do this swap
Ha! That swap is insane-o, I don't know if they would to play nice. Things got real dirty on ether so I dunno if JZ could take another shot like that. After reading further I decided to go with a 50 shot kit for now without forged pistons. I will just put the button in a very inconvenient place until its re-built with forged components. I give it 20-40 K on a 60K motor. Thanks again
Man I wouldn’t go with Illuminas, I’d go with BC Coilovers. For some weird reason, they’re a lot more expensive than they sued to be and for the price of a set of 4, you can get BC CO’s with tons more options. Also, 350z pistons will work for your applications (DE pistons). Wiseco from Z1 can do any CR for an additional 100$.
With all of those goodies, might as well get some ARP rod bolts and a Rev-Up oil pump. I don’t think pistons will be your weak point, but more so the rods. But boosting with N2O just seems a bit excessive and like Child said, might want to do some major reading on the FI and N2O sub-forums.
I'm trying to take care of whatever needs fixing on my 2000 infiniti and while I have the plenum and lots of other things off would like to clean the egr guide tube and the egr valve itself. I finally succeeded in getting the guide tube off - WAY too much work, but finally done. However, I can't get the valve itself off. I removed the two bolts into the spacer and soaked the area with pb blaster repeatedly over a few days, but it's not budging. Is there another bolt I'm missing? I got frustrated yesterday and removed the two bolts on the top of the valve itself and promptly lost a small piece that I didn't see somewhere under the car. I can probably find it, especially if I know what to look for, but don't want to put too much effort into that until I find out whether I should be replacing rather than repairing the valve after 16 years and 145K miles. The egr guide tube was clogged, but not completely, and the car wasn't giving me egr codes - the repairs were started because the engine bay is covered in baked on oil and hadn't had a pcv valve replacement - ever! So, what I need to know is:
1. How to remove it from the EGR spacer
2. Whether to clean and reinstall or to replace
I am a noob on the forums and have been searching everywhere (here and Google) for a fix to my issue.
My driver window was not tracking all the way back up correctly and I began the process of pulling off the door panel to check the regulator/motor and to make sure the window wasn't just disconnected from the regulator. I got as far as removing the power window/lock control panel. In removing the white connectors, the larger of the two came apart in two pieces. The upper was a cap to hold the wires in place and wires have now popped out and are completely mixed up. I got the bottom piece of the white connector out as well.
Now I need to reinsert the wires and put the connector together but I cannot find a wiring diagram anywhere that shows which colored wires go in which pin slots so that i can replace it. I want to be sure I do it correctly so that I don't end up shorting out a wire somewhere and thus having to end up replacing the motor or blowing a fuse, etc.
Below is a picture of the connector that I'm talking about. I found the picture on the forums here, but it is not close enough to be able to tell which wires go in which locations.
Does anyone know of where to find a wiring diagram that would help me put it back together? Or barring that, anyone have a close up picture of the connector for a 2002 model so I can put them back trial and error to get it gong? I live at least an hour plus from a dealership and I don't particularly want to drive the car to a local shop that may not be able to fix it with power running to the wires as they are banging around in to each other.
I got as far as removing the power window/lock control panel. In removing the white connectors, the larger of the two came apart in two pieces. The upper was a cap to hold the wires in place and wires have now popped out and are completely mixed up. I got the bottom piece of the white connector out as well.
Now I need to reinsert the wires and put the connector together but I cannot find a wiring diagram anywhere that shows which colored wires go in which pin slots so that i can replace it. I want to be sure I do it correctly so that I don't end up shorting out a wire somewhere and thus having to end up replacing the motor or blowing a fuse, etc.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
If it makes you feel any better, you are not the first one to do this. But that still doesn't fix your problem.
I appreciate the help. However, I'm just seeing a link to click on for the photos but they aren't loading up.
Any chance you can drop them in the forum or pm them to me? Not getting them to pop up so they are visible for some reason. Might be because I had to go out of town for work and am on a chromebook, but I won't be able to get to a PC and check for at least 3-4 days.
Ok i know that my question is not realy on the topic right now but i was wondering if any of you old timers ; ) could tell me if a 5.5 gen with stock suspension can have some 16x8" wheel with zero offset without Having clearance issues!
I'd also like to know if throwing coilovers would be restrictive on the width of the wheel in an optic where i dont want them to rub!
Ohh and i was planning on going with 8inches width wheel and zero offset to kind of delete the factory placement of the wheels where they are kind of "inside" of the fenders.
I've looked at some topics but i was unable to find someone with such a setting! Anyone know if they Will be flush with the fenders or even a bit offset?
Hello. I am looking for a specific part for my 2000 Nissan Maxima. I've tried googling to find it, probably didnt find it since I dont know the exact name, none of the shops similiar to autozone seem to have it here, and there is no nissan dealership close to me. I am looking for a clamp that goes on the square part of the air intake, mine dosent have it for whatever reason and it keeps slipping out of place.
Hello. I am looking for a specific part for my 2000 Nissan Maxima. I've tried googling to find it, probably didnt find it since I dont know the exact name, none of the shops similiar to autozone seem to have it here, and there is no nissan dealership close to me. I am looking for a clamp that goes on the square part of the air intake, mine dosent have it for whatever reason and it keeps slipping out of place.
Are you referring to the clips for the cover that holds the air filter in? If so, these are not sold separately, they are part of the plastic box that is only sold by Nissan. A good place to get something like this is your local pick-n-pull junkyard.
Here is a link to the parts book diagram for the air cleaner box. See if you can find the part on it.
Are you referring to the clips for the cover that holds the air filter in? If so, these are not sold separately, they are part of the plastic box that is only sold by Nissan. A good place to get something like this is your local pick-n-pull junkyard.
Here is a link to the parts book diagram for the air cleaner box. See if you can find the part on it.
No. I had ment the air duct, part code 16577, the square part that connects to what looks like the air cleaner, part code 16500. I was trying to figure out if there was a gear clamp or a basic clamp that connects the air duct. I can disconnect mine without using any force.
No. I had ment the air duct, part code 16577, the square part that connects to what looks like the air cleaner, part code 16500. I was trying to figure out if there was a gear clamp or a basic clamp that connects the air duct. I can disconnect mine without using any force.
i think you're talking about the connection in the center of this pic:
i wrapped some foam around both sides so the piece that extends over it fits more snugly. it is a better fit than it was before, but still not perfect
i think you're talking about the connection in the center of this pic:
i wrapped some foam around both sides so the piece that extends over it fits more snugly. it is a better fit than it was before, but still not perfect
yes thats exactly what I ment. I probably didnt describe it well, sorry about that. I have a zip tie on it right now, but I was looking for something permanent, I could try the foam idea, probably would look a bit better.
Can somebody tell me the likely cause of a VQ35DE car that consistently goes into a fail safe/limp mode, accompanied by the SLIP light & the TCS OFF light, whenever it is is accelerated hard. It will accelerate fine to highway speeds if the acceleration is gradual, but if you take off fast at all it shuts the power down with a jolt felt throughout the car at about 2000-2500 rpm, the SLIP & TCS lights come on, and the RPM bearly move even under full throttle, although it will still crawl uphill slowly. Turning the car off and back on resets it to normal, but it must be babied to keep it out of the fail safe/limp mode.
Can somebody tell me the likely cause of a VQ35DE car that consistently goes into a fail safe/limp mode, accompanied by the SLIP light & the TCS OFF light, whenever it is is accelerated hard. It will accelerate fine to highway speeds if the acceleration is gradual, but if you take off fast at all it shuts the power down with a jolt felt throughout the car at about 2000-2500 rpm, the SLIP & TCS lights come on, and the RPM bearly move even under full throttle, although it will still crawl uphill slowly. Turning the car off and back on resets it to normal, but it must be babied to keep it out of the fail safe/limp mode.
When something causes the car to go into limp mode, the engine will not rev over 2500 rpm and the ignition timing is retarded, causing loss of engine power.
There a several things that can cause this, failing ignition coils is one that may apply to you. Also (believe it or not) a failing alternator can cause this. You could have multiple causes.
Did you connect an OBD code reader to see if there are any codes?
When something causes the car to go into limp mode, the engine will not rev over 2500 rpm and the ignition timing is retarded, causing loss of engine power.
From the reading I've done, I believe the fail-safe I am falling into is the one that limits the throttle to 10% so the gas pedal has to be floored in order to produce forward movement, rather than the regular 2500rpm limp mode. I believe this rules out a lot of things that cause the normal limp mode, but I am new to these cars and just going off what I read. Would you agree that this rules out MAF etc?
Is the fact that the SLIP & TCS OFF lights come on with this fail-safe/limp mode a significant clue, or is this normal behavior with either limp mode?
Also, is the normal limp mode sometimes reset by just turning the car off and on? Because I am able to consistently put this car into fail-safe/limp mode simply by accelerating hard to about 2000rpm and then take it out simply by restarting the engine. I suspect that also means that this is not the typical 2500rpm limp mode?
Did you connect an OBD code reader to see if there are any codes?
I didn't get any codes, but the battery had been recently removed, so I need to check this again.
I noticed a possible new clue. When I restart the car after it has fallen into the fail-safe mode, the AT self-check light flashes 16 times. I assume this is also a significant clue but I just don't know these cars yet...
I didn't get any codes, but the battery had been recently removed, so I need to check this again.
I noticed a possible new clue. When I restart the car after it has fallen into the fail-safe mode, the AT self-check light flashes 16 times. I assume this is also a significant clue but I just don't know these cars yet...
Yes, that flashing AT light is a problem. The ECU (car's computer) can put the car in limp mode to reduce strain on the transmission.
First, check the oil level in the transmission. Low oil will cause the light to flash because the clutches in the transmission could be slipping.
Then you can run the self diagnostics on the auto trans. It makes the light in the dash blink and you have to count the blinks.
Here is a link to the 2002 service manual for the diagnostic. If you have a 2003, don't worry, it is the same.
This car is a 2004 Infiniti I35, but I understand it is based on the 5th gen Maxima. The dash flashes the words "AT Self Diagnostic" during the restart. I suppose this might differ from a Maxima, as it is not the AT trouble light that is flashing. The AT seems to pass the test, as no lights remain on after the self check. I did make a separate thread for this, btw. Perhaps somebody can merge these posts over to that as I continue to research and read.
Man I wouldn’t go with Illuminas, I’d go with BC Coilovers. For some weird reason, they’re a lot more expensive than they sued to be and for the price of a set of 4, you can get BC CO’s with tons more options. Also, 350z pistons will work for your applications (DE pistons). Wiseco from Z1 can do any CR for an additional 100$.
With all of those goodies, might as well get some ARP rod bolts and a Rev-Up oil pump. I don’t think pistons will be your weak point, but more so the rods. But boosting with N2O just seems a bit excessive and like Child said, might want to do some major reading on the FI and N2O sub-forums.
I already had the Illuminas on my old Maxima they were swapped over. The rear right piston is leaking to the point where I can push the tire up when its on the lift. The Illuminas are only 3 years old with about 20K on them and not slammed at all (H&R's). If I could do it all over again I would have gotten coil overs but the price was right 3 years ago.
As for the N02 I can choose not to use it, but a turbo is another story. I wont be doing any boosting this year but I will be on here researching.
Hi maxima world. I have a 2003 maxima 6 speed and it was in a jump-start accident recently, to the point where it actually fried every electronic module in the car. so ive replaced the ecm, bcm, air bag module, and immobilizer with matching key and ignition cylander all from a junkyard except I had to order the ecm on ebay because I couldn't find a 6 speed. so now I have the problem that nothing matches the ecm and im not sure what to do about it while avoiding huge dealership bills. any and all help would be very much appreciated.
Hi maxima world. I have a 2003 maxima 6 speed and it was in a jump-start accident recently, to the point where it actually fried every electronic module in the car. so ive replaced the ecm, bcm, air bag module, and immobilizer with matching key and ignition cylander all from a junkyard except I had to order the ecm on ebay because I couldn't find a 6 speed. so now I have the problem that nothing matches the ecm and im not sure what to do about it while avoiding huge dealership bills. any and all help would be very much appreciated.
There are a bunch of repair services for ECMs. They have all different prices, so you have your pick. There is always the possibility that your ECM is damaged beyond repair, but call the place and ask.
There are a bunch of repair services for ECMs. They have all different prices, so you have your pick. There is always the possibility that your ECM is damaged beyond repair, but call the place and ask.
will these repair services be able to make my new ecm match the bcm immobilizer and key because the old ecm is burnt beyond repair for sure, the motherboard itself is burnt about 1/2 in burn circle
will these repair services be able to make my new ecm match the bcm immobilizer and key because the old ecm is burnt beyond repair for sure, the motherboard itself is burnt about 1/2 in burn circle
if its that bad you might be better off getting a matching ecm off ebay, buying nds2 and a cable to program your keys. my guess is that's about $200 total, i might be off $100 or so.
My 5.5gen has a loud knock/tick on cold start up, that goes away as soon as oil pressure actually builds up. (1-1.5 seconds)
Is that normal for these engines?
(178k miles)
Also, I can't get the dipstick to read correctly. There seems to be oil all the way up the damn stick. I filled the car with 4qts when i did the oil change, checked the dipstick and it looks way overfilled, but i know thats not possible since these are supposed to take like 4.25qts.
My 5.5gen has a loud knock/tick on cold start up, that goes away as soon as oil pressure actually builds up. (1-1.5 seconds)
Is that normal for these engines?
(178k miles)
Also, I can't get the dipstick to read correctly. There seems to be oil all the way up the damn stick. I filled the car with 4qts when i did the oil change, checked the dipstick and it looks way overfilled, but i know thats not possible since these are supposed to take like 4.25qts.
It could be the timing chain making noise. The tensioners wear out and allow the chain to flap around until the oil pushes the tensioners way out.
As far as reading the dip stick goes, Nissan had the brilliant idea to use a return oil gallery for the dipstick. This means that the oil draining away from the heads back to the oil pan flows down over the dipstick, making it impossible to get an accurate reading. What you have to do is let the engine sit for an hour or so after it has been running so the oil is no longer draining from the heads and then read the dipstick. If you are doing an oil change, take the dipstick out before you add oil, but you'll still have to wait 10 - 15 minutes.
It could be the timing chain making noise. The tensioners wear out and allow the chain to flap around until the oil pushes the tensioners way out.
As far as reading the dip stick goes, Nissan had the brilliant idea to use a return oil gallery for the dipstick. This means that the oil draining away from the heads back to the oil pan flows down over the dipstick, making it impossible to get an accurate reading. What you have to do is let the engine sit for an hour or so after it has been running so the oil is no longer draining from the heads and then read the dipstick. If you are doing an oil change, take the dipstick out before you add oil, but you'll still have to wait 10 - 15 minutes.
I just snapped one of the camshaft bracket bolts on my 2000 infiniti. How do I get the broken end out without causing damage? I have not tried an extractor kit yet because the hole is so small I'm afraid I'll make things worse, but I'm definitely open to suggestions - right now I'm stopped dead in my tracks. Also, should I replace the other 3 bolts at the same time as I replace the broken one? The others tightened to spec without failing, but they are 16 years old. Thanks so much for any help!
I just snapped one of the camshaft bracket bolts on my 2000 infiniti. How do I get the broken end out without causing damage? I have not tried an extractor kit yet because the hole is so small I'm afraid I'll make things worse, but I'm definitely open to suggestions - right now I'm stopped dead in my tracks. Also, should I replace the other 3 bolts at the same time as I replace the broken one? The others tightened to spec without failing, but they are 16 years old. Thanks so much for any help!
If the bolt is broken off flush with the bolt hole, you might be able to make a slot for a screwdriver and get it out that way. But if the bolt is broken off below the surface of the bolt hole, you are going to have to use an extractor.
05-31-2016, 01:30 PM
. Hence the reason I want to run at stock compression. 
