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I tried searching for the solution to the P1320 trouble code on a 2000 I30 and I'm stumped.
I've pulled all 6 coils and used a multi meter to check the ohms across the terminals. They're all consistent with each other and all of the harness plugs have 12+volts. I also changed out the ignition condenser with no luck.
I tried searching for the solution to the P1320 trouble code on a 2000 I30 and I'm stumped.
I've pulled all 6 coils and used a multi meter to check the ohms across the terminals. They're all consistent with each other and all of the harness plugs have 12+volts. I also changed out the ignition condenser with no luck.
Whats the next step?
-B
Check the 2 crankshaft sensors, they are part of the spark timing.
From page 537 of the service manual:
Power transistor unit built into ignition coil
Condenser
Crankshaft position sensor (REF)
Crankshaft position sensor (REF) circuit
Harness or connectors (The ignition primary circuit is open or shorted.)
Service manual link -http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Infiniti/I30/2000/EC.pdf
P0505-What voltage on pins 1,3,4,6 of IACV after ECU Repair.
Hi,
First let me say thanks to all the contributers that have blazed the P0505 issue in the past. Your research and postings have been a tremendous help.
I have been searching all over for the voltages that I should be seeing on the IACV connector coming from the ECU.
I am working on daughters car that had a bad IACV and Burnt ECU. I replaced the IACV, but unfortunately had to drive it with the burnt ECU. I got the car home and ordered and new chip from ebay and soldered it in. Also jumpered the wires and have checked for continuity on all points mentioned in Nakis post on the thread .
The resistance readings on the IACV all are about 22 ohms and I am getting 12 v. on pins 2,5.
Previously the idle would stall and stay low. I went back in the ecu and rechecked the other pins on Nakis post about the 4 points on the chips side of the board. The pin 2 point has about 1k ohms on it. So I am wondering if that is correct or not. The other 3 were all 0 ohms. This was after reflowing the solder to the top of the board. Now I have some high idling 1k-17k rpm. and sometimes drops when warm. Still cannot do the relearn. I only get a P0505 when it stalls due to low rpm. When I removed the stepper from the IACV with it plugged in and key on, I really cant see it moving much although I feel it having some activity in my hand just like it is stuck but cannot move. I cannot move it by hand either. It is a Hitachi, but I am wondering if I fried it again with the bad ecu running back home. That is my guess. But I am just not sure.
Does anyone know what kind of voltage readings I should be seeing the connector to the the IACV? Should have ordered that Digital probe already
Let me know If I need to clarify anything. Its late and I am tired.
Basically a little lost trying to prove out that the ecu repair is good or the IACV, since both are questionable at best now.
Gonna head to the local junkyard to check out a couple of Maxi's and see if I and find some good parts to try. There are a couple of newly wrecked ones that look promising. If I find a good candidate, I will nab the ecu and IACV. Ultimately I will try to get the new IACV warrantied and use either the junkyard ECU or the current one if I can prove it out.
So one last question is, If I put in used ECU and connect the IACV, if they are both good both visibly and resistance/continuity wise, when I apply power, how much will the pintle move on the IACV? The current one is not moving very much at all if any. I was expecting to be moving quite visibly. Will this work even if I haven't had the ecu reset for the key? I know the car won't start and run, but can I test out the function of these circuits?
Hi,
First let me say thanks to all the contributers that have blazed the P0505 issue in the past. Your research and postings have been a tremendous help.
I have been searching all over for the voltages that I should be seeing on the IACV connector coming from the ECU.
I am working on daughters car that had a bad IACV and Burnt ECU. I replaced the IACV, but unfortunately had to drive it with the burnt ECU. I got the car home and ordered and new chip from ebay and soldered it in. Also jumpered the wires and have checked for continuity on all points mentioned in Nakis post on the thread .
The resistance readings on the IACV all are about 22 ohms and I am getting 12 v. on pins 2,5.
Previously the idle would stall and stay low. I went back in the ecu and rechecked the other pins on Nakis post about the 4 points on the chips side of the board. The pin 2 point has about 1k ohms on it. So I am wondering if that is correct or not. The other 3 were all 0 ohms. This was after reflowing the solder to the top of the board. Now I have some high idling 1k-17k rpm. and sometimes drops when warm. Still cannot do the relearn. I only get a P0505 when it stalls due to low rpm. When I removed the stepper from the IACV with it plugged in and key on, I really cant see it moving much although I feel it having some activity in my hand just like it is stuck but cannot move. I cannot move it by hand either. It is a Hitachi, but I am wondering if I fried it again with the bad ecu running back home. That is my guess. But I am just not sure.
Does anyone know what kind of voltage readings I should be seeing the connector to the the IACV? Should have ordered that Digital probe already
Let me know If I need to clarify anything. Its late and I am tired.
Basically a little lost trying to prove out that the ecu repair is good or the IACV, since both are questionable at best now.
Gonna head to the local junkyard to check out a couple of Maxi's and see if I and find some good parts to try. There are a couple of newly wrecked ones that look promising. If I find a good candidate, I will nab the ecu and IACV. Ultimately I will try to get the new IACV warrantied and use either the junkyard ECU or the current one if I can prove it out.
So one last question is, If I put in used ECU and connect the IACV, if they are both good both visibly and resistance/continuity wise, when I apply power, how much will the pintle move on the IACV? The current one is not moving very much at all if any. I was expecting to be moving quite visibly. Will this work even if I haven't had the ecu reset for the key? I know the car won't start and run, but can I test out the function of these circuits?
I can't answer most of your questions about voltages, but:
a) Re. absence/presence of IACV pintle movement: Be aware that the ECU is operating the IACV by PULSING the two IACV coils in some manner unknown to us.
b) If you haven't read this document https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6O...hibHlkRmc/view yet, read it now.
c) Then, disconnect your engine mounts.
d) Last, repair/replace your IACV and ECU. For IACV, I strongly suggest the Hitachi unit from Rockauto. Re. your ECU, the document has links to a couple of reputable outfits that repair ECUs/TCUs/other electronics.
Hey guys. New here. I did several searches, both google and here, and as always, a million posts for vacuum lines or leaks, but couldnt find something related to this.
So I just replaced the upper gasket for the intake, but I seem to have missed something when putting everything back. What connects to this hole on the back of the plenum? Where does the other end go?
end of the intake plenum/manifold near power steering hose.
I can't answer most of your questions about voltages, but:
a) Re. absence/presence of IACV pintle movement: Be aware that the ECU is operating the IACV by PULSING the two IACV coils in some manner unknown to us.
b) If you haven't read this document https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6O...hibHlkRmc/view yet, read it now.
c) Then, disconnect your engine mounts.
d) Last, repair/replace your IACV and ECU. For IACV, I strongly suggest the Hitachi unit from Rockauto. Re. your ECU, the document has links to a couple of reputable outfits that repair ECUs/TCUs/other electronics.
Good luck!
@maxiiiboy,
Thanks for the response.
a) I am aware of that, I didn't have a logic probe but that would have probably show if I am getting the pulses or not. I am sure the voltages vary and I am not seeing ground on them so at least that is good. I do have a different multimeter that beeps for continuity, need to get battery for it and see if I hear any different sounding beeps as Nakis did.
b)I have read it. Excellent Document! Great write-up
c) Disconnected the motormounts already after reading this forum and before working on the ecu repair.
Any thoughts on this guys? FSM and Haynes don't have much info regarding this.
Originally Posted by Maxer81
Hey guys. New here. I did several searches, both google and here, and as always, a million posts for vacuum lines or leaks, but couldnt find something related to this.
So I just replaced the upper gasket for the intake, but I seem to have missed something when putting everything back. What connects to this hole on the back of the plenum? Where does the other end go?
end of the intake plenum/manifold near power steering hose.
Hey guys. New here. I did several searches, both google and here, and as always, a million posts for vacuum lines or leaks, but couldnt find something related to this.
So I just replaced the upper gasket for the intake, but I seem to have missed something when putting everything back. What connects to this hole on the back of the plenum? Where does the other end go?
end of the intake plenum/manifold near power steering hose.
Hi,
First let me say thanks to all the contributers that have blazed the P0505 issue in the past. Your research and postings have been a tremendous help.
I have been searching all over for the voltages that I should be seeing on the IACV connector coming from the ECU.
I am working on daughters car that had a bad IACV and Burnt ECU. I replaced the IACV, but unfortunately had to drive it with the burnt ECU. I got the car home and ordered and new chip from ebay and soldered it in. Also jumpered the wires and have checked for continuity on all points mentioned in Nakis post on the thread .
The resistance readings on the IACV all are about 22 ohms and I am getting 12 v. on pins 2,5.
Previously the idle would stall and stay low. I went back in the ecu and rechecked the other pins on Nakis post about the 4 points on the chips side of the board. The pin 2 point has about 1k ohms on it. So I am wondering if that is correct or not. The other 3 were all 0 ohms. This was after reflowing the solder to the top of the board. Now I have some high idling 1k-17k rpm. and sometimes drops when warm. Still cannot do the relearn. I only get a P0505 when it stalls due to low rpm. When I removed the stepper from the IACV with it plugged in and key on, I really cant see it moving much although I feel it having some activity in my hand just like it is stuck but cannot move. I cannot move it by hand either. It is a Hitachi, but I am wondering if I fried it again with the bad ecu running back home. That is my guess. But I am just not sure.
Does anyone know what kind of voltage readings I should be seeing the connector to the the IACV? Should have ordered that Digital probe already
Let me know If I need to clarify anything. Its late and I am tired.
Basically a little lost trying to prove out that the ecu repair is good or the IACV, since both are questionable at best now.
Gonna head to the local junkyard to check out a couple of Maxi's and see if I and find some good parts to try. There are a couple of newly wrecked ones that look promising. If I find a good candidate, I will nab the ecu and IACV. Ultimately I will try to get the new IACV warrantied and use either the junkyard ECU or the current one if I can prove it out.
So one last question is, If I put in used ECU and connect the IACV, if they are both good both visibly and resistance/continuity wise, when I apply power, how much will the pintle move on the IACV? The current one is not moving very much at all if any. I was expecting to be moving quite visibly. Will this work even if I haven't had the ecu reset for the key? I know the car won't start and run, but can I test out the function of these circuits?
Not saying your post is slightly fabricated but if you had a burnt ECU would've most likely have gotten a P0605 + P0505. I get P0505 all the time after removing the accelerator cables. Does this mean I have a bad ECU? No it just means I need to adjust the accelerator cables. Clear the P0505 and it doesn't come back.
P0605 is ECU computing failure.
Not saying your post is slightly fabricated but if you had a burnt ECU would've most likely have gotten a P0605 + P0505. I get P0505 all the time after removing the accelerator cables. Does this mean I have a bad ECU? No it just means I need to adjust the accelerator cables. Clear the P0505 and it doesn't come back.
P0605 is ECU computing failure.
did you get p0605 or just p0505 when your ecu went out? because i think what you're suggesting goes against what most people here (including yourself) have experienced
Not saying your post is slightly fabricated but if you had a burnt ECU would've most likely have gotten a P0605 + P0505. I get P0505 all the time after removing the accelerator cables. Does this mean I have a bad ECU? No it just means I need to adjust the accelerator cables. Clear the P0505 and it doesn't come back.
P0605 is ECU computing failure.
I have to call BS on this.
It is possible that an ECU with burned chips could cause P0605 but it depends on which chips have failed. P0605 is the failure of the microprocessor to calculate a checksum on its prom/eprom program. The STA509a chips that burn up from IACV and motor mount problems do not cause a P0605.
P0505 is a failure of the ECU to keep the engine idle at a certain rpm. Removing the accelerator cables should not cause/allow the idle to vary. It could if the throttle plate opened but that should not be happening because there is a spring on the throttle plate assembly that keeps the throttle plate closed. It this is happening on your car, you have a problem with the throttle assembly. It is not normal.
did you get p0605 or just p0505 when your ecu went out? because i think what you're suggesting goes against what most people here (including yourself) have experienced
I don't know I can't tell you
Na I brought it back to Bridgestone they said bad IACV. After replacing it I guess they were claiming they can't relearn the IACV. The car was just within the 10 year range so I left it to more experienced mechanics.
I doubt it was a bad ECM! I don't think the chip inside was burnt but I authorized the repairs because I was preoccupied with other activities at the time.
Now 5 years later I thought I had an immobilizer issue and had it towed to Nissan. They claim car needs new ECM. Waited 5 hours for the tow truck I ordered at 10 am. Finally it showed up. 2 hours later after getting back home I pulled the ECM and found out it was perfect I had the car up and running 2-4 hours later
Ya know they will just straight up lie about s$*t just to make more dough on top of a repair. Literally I could bring the car in after just disconnecting an airbag connection and they would claim I need a new airbag because the Airbag lamp is flashing.
I guess it's good to just go ahead and begin replacing parts but I just had a new ECM put in just 5 years ago. It was literally 1/4 the value of the vehicle.
Last edited by maximatech12; 11-02-2016 at 05:19 PM.
Not saying your post is slightly fabricated but if you had a burnt ECU would've most likely have gotten a P0605 + P0505. I get P0505 all the time after removing the accelerator cables. Does this mean I have a bad ECU? No it just means I need to adjust the accelerator cables. Clear the P0505 and it doesn't come back.
P0605 is ECU computing failure.
No Fabrication, Maybe just bad description of issue. I definitely only had the P0505 only. After attempted repair and clearing all codes, If I let the idle get low enough to stall, after a second I would get cel P0505, but If I restarted instantly, there would be no cel while running. Either way see below.
I am pretty sure I figured it out. I went to the Junk Yard (JY) and was able to find a good (maybe) ecu and a couple of stepper motors. Anyway the ECU I got from the junk yard won't work because this car has Traction Control and the JY car didn't. Anyway. I found on my repair of the STA509A wasn't complete. I couldn't get a good connection from Pin 6 to the tiny chip next to it because the board trace was toast. I tried and tried to solder a tiny wire to the trace but could not get a good connection without touching the trace next to it. So I ordered another one from ebay. I am waiting for that now. I am pretty sure it, along with the JY stepper will fix the issue after I get the key programmed do the relearn. Should get it tomorrow or the next day.
Thanks for contributing and offering your assistance. I can't tell you how many times forums like this have saved me thousands from being spent at the stealers or some unscrupulous mechanic shop.
For Kicks:
1st pic Burnt STA509A, 2nd Pic STA509A after trying to get that stupid tiny wire soldered on. Did not have ideal soldering equipment and bad eyesight. I also thrashed that tiny chip trying to find continuity to those pins. So be careful using multimeter on those surface mount tiny chips. Looks like the solder paste they used really just crumbles if messed with too much. So I figured I better just go ahead and order a good ecu instead of continuing to screw this one up.
P0505-What voltage on pins 1,3,4,6 of IACV after ECU Repair.-SOLVED
Originally Posted by Paul Perez
No Fabrication, Maybe just bad description of issue. I definitely only had the P0505 only. After attempted repair and clearing all codes, If I let the idle get low enough to stall, after a second I would get cel P0505, but If I restarted instantly, there would be no cel while running. Either way see below.
I am pretty sure I figured it out. I went to the Junk Yard (JY) and was able to find a good (maybe) ecu and a couple of stepper motors. Anyway the ECU I got from the junk yard won't work because this car has Traction Control and the JY car didn't. Anyway. I found on my repair of the STA509A wasn't complete. I couldn't get a good connection from Pin 6 to the tiny chip next to it because the board trace was toast. I tried and tried to solder a tiny wire to the trace but could not get a good connection without touching the trace next to it. So I ordered another one from ebay. I am waiting for that now. I am pretty sure it, along with the JY stepper will fix the issue after I get the key programmed do the relearn. Should get it tomorrow or the next day.
Thanks for contributing and offering your assistance. I can't tell you how many times forums like this have saved me thousands from being spent at the stealers or some unscrupulous mechanic shop.
For Kicks:
1st pic Burnt STA509A, 2nd Pic STA509A after trying to get that stupid tiny wire soldered on. Did not have ideal soldering equipment and bad eyesight. I also thrashed that tiny chip trying to find continuity to those pins. So be careful using multimeter on those surface mount tiny chips. Looks like the solder paste they used really just crumbles if messed with too much. So I figured I better just go ahead and order a good ecu instead of continuing to screw this one up.
Will let you guys know how it goes.
Cheers,
Paul
Well I put in the replacement ECU and the Locksmith came out and reprogrammed it for the 2 keys and started right up. It had been off the battery for a couple days so no need to the manual relearn. Runs great!
01 maxima SE. 210,000 miles, had it since 07 when it had 85,000 miles. On its last legs really, not looking to spend thousands on fixing it, would just get a new car if over $1,000/year in maintenance.
Think one of the coils stopped working a few months ago. Car lurches hard a few times upon start up but after driving a minute settles down. Occasional sulfur like smell enters cabin (5% of the time at the most) so I definitely think it's misfiring, maybe someone can confirm.
Main issue: a few months ago I was checking my brake fluid levels and noticed my power steering fluid was low. I filled it up with ATF Dexron 3 I think and all seemed ok. After another week, the fluid was pretty low again. I'm assuming there is a leak obviously and need to get it looked at. However today, (after being away for work for about 3 weeks) I opened the hood and the power steering reservoir was empty. Filled it up with the ATF, started it up, waited 5 minutes, then drove to the store (about 6 miles away). When I got there I checked back under the hood and noticed smoke coming from the back left (right behind the reservoir). Smelled burnt and lasted for 5 minutes after shutting the car off. Pictures of area in link.
Was this just the leaking fluid dropping onto a hot part of the engine? Or could it have been the transmission itself burning up? I want to take it to a mechanic during the week but just looking for what might be in my future repairs.
01 maxima SE. 210,000 miles, had it since 07 when it had 85,000 miles. On its last legs really, not looking to spend thousands on fixing it, would just get a new car if over $1,000/year in maintenance.
Think one of the coils stopped working a few months ago. Car lurches hard a few times upon start up but after driving a minute settles down. Occasional sulfur like smell enters cabin (5% of the time at the most) so I definitely think it's misfiring, maybe someone can confirm.
Main issue: a few months ago I was checking my brake fluid levels and noticed my power steering fluid was low. I filled it up with ATF Dexron 3 I think and all seemed ok. After another week, the fluid was pretty low again. I'm assuming there is a leak obviously and need to get it looked at. However today, (after being away for work for about 3 weeks) I opened the hood and the power steering reservoir was empty. Filled it up with the ATF, started it up, waited 5 minutes, then drove to the store (about 6 miles away). When I got there I checked back under the hood and noticed smoke coming from the back left (right behind the reservoir). Smelled burnt and lasted for 5 minutes after shutting the car off. Pictures of area in link.
Was this just the leaking fluid dropping onto a hot part of the engine? Or could it have been the transmission itself burning up? I want to take it to a mechanic during the week but just looking for what might be in my future repairs.
01 maxima SE. 210,000 miles, had it since 07 when it had 85,000 miles. On its last legs really, not looking to spend thousands on fixing it, would just get a new car if over $1,000/year in maintenance.
Think one of the coils stopped working a few months ago. Car lurches hard a few times upon start up but after driving a minute settles down. Occasional sulfur like smell enters cabin (5% of the time at the most) so I definitely think it's misfiring, maybe someone can confirm.
Main issue: a few months ago I was checking my brake fluid levels and noticed my power steering fluid was low. I filled it up with ATF Dexron 3 I think and all seemed ok. After another week, the fluid was pretty low again. I'm assuming there is a leak obviously and need to get it looked at. However today, (after being away for work for about 3 weeks) I opened the hood and the power steering reservoir was empty. Filled it up with the ATF, started it up, waited 5 minutes, then drove to the store (about 6 miles away). When I got there I checked back under the hood and noticed smoke coming from the back left (right behind the reservoir). Smelled burnt and lasted for 5 minutes after shutting the car off. Pictures of area in link.
Was this just the leaking fluid dropping onto a hot part of the engine? Or could it have been the transmission itself burning up? I want to take it to a mechanic during the week but just looking for what might be in my future repairs.
As cornholio stated, it is most likely the high pressure power steering hose. Based on what you said, it is leaking pretty bad. The exhaust y-pipe is below the hose, so the oil is dripping on it and smoking.
Don't wait too long to get it fixed because a nasty side effect is that the ATF will rot out the lower control arm (LCA) bushings and then you will have another thing to fix.
Thanks guys. Mechanic confirmed the high pressure line blew out. $450 all together for the repair. Still deciding whether I want to get the coil that's causing the misfiring fixed ;(
I have been looking a a front lip for some time now and ran across this one on Amazon. I don't have money to go for a Stillen right now, so I'm wondering if anyone has experience with this lip instead. Thanks!
So I'm seeing the new Maxima and am seeing no side bumpers
Not only on the max but almost every other later make/model.
Has anyone just removed the bumpers on the 5th gen and sealed the holes up?
Last edited by maximatech12; 12-02-2016 at 06:32 PM.
So I'm seeing the new Maxima and am seeing no side bumpers
Not only on the max but almost every other later make/model.
Has anyone just removed the bumpers on the 5th gen and sealed the holes up?
No Fabrication, Maybe just bad description of issue. I definitely only had the P0505 only. After attempted repair and clearing all codes, If I let the idle get low enough to stall, after a second I would get cel P0505, but If I restarted instantly, there would be no cel while running. Either way see below.
I am pretty sure I figured it out. I went to the Junk Yard (JY) and was able to find a good (maybe) ecu and a couple of stepper motors. Anyway the ECU I got from the junk yard won't work because this car has Traction Control and the JY car didn't. Anyway. I found on my repair of the STA509A wasn't complete. I couldn't get a good connection from Pin 6 to the tiny chip next to it because the board trace was toast. I tried and tried to solder a tiny wire to the trace but could not get a good connection without touching the trace next to it. So I ordered another one from ebay. I am waiting for that now. I am pretty sure it, along with the JY stepper will fix the issue after I get the key programmed do the relearn. Should get it tomorrow or the next day.
Thanks for contributing and offering your assistance. I can't tell you how many times forums like this have saved me thousands from being spent at the stealers or some unscrupulous mechanic shop.
For Kicks:
1st pic Burnt STA509A, 2nd Pic STA509A after trying to get that stupid tiny wire soldered on. Did not have ideal soldering equipment and bad eyesight. I also thrashed that tiny chip trying to find continuity to those pins. So be careful using multimeter on those surface mount tiny chips. Looks like the solder paste they used really just crumbles if messed with too much. So I figured I better just go ahead and order a good ecu instead of continuing to screw this one up.
Will let you guys know how it goes.
Cheers,
Paul
I'm seeing where it's burnt but I thought the other black MOSFET chip is associated with the IACV. That's the chip They mentioned was associated with the Engine mounting.
I'm seeing where it's burnt but I thought the other black MOSFET chip is associated with the IACV. That's the chip They mentioned was associated with the Engine mounting.
There are different printed circuit boards used in the ECU. The layout of the pcb has components in different locations, so unless you know specifically which layout you are looking at, you may be pointing at the wrong component.
When you are working on an ECU, check the continuity from the ECU connector pin to the chip for verification purposes.
I inherited this vehicle about two days ago. Went to start it, fired right up and then stalled. Kept doing so until I'd give it gas to stay running. Even after the car warmed up, I still had to keep giving it gas to stay running. After about 20 minutes it stays on by itself, but is up and down on the idle (between 1200-2200). Put the car into drive and the rpm sits at about 900. Barely accelerate over 10mph and the car shudders and goes normal. By 20-22mph rpm jumps to 2200 again and then drives normal. Took it to a shop (needed rear pads, rear right caliper, and a tps). Problem still continued, but now my TCS OFF light and SLIP lights are on. I can't seem to diagnose any of the above problems. I'm going through an 1/8th tank of gas everytime I have to start the car. Can anyone help before I get torn apart at a dealer??
I inherited this vehicle about two days ago. Went to start it, fired right up and then stalled. Kept doing so until I'd give it gas to stay running. Even after the car warmed up, I still had to keep giving it gas to stay running. After about 20 minutes it stays on by itself, but is up and down on the idle (between 1200-2200). Put the car into drive and the rpm sits at about 900. Barely accelerate over 10mph and the car shudders and goes normal. By 20-22mph rpm jumps to 2200 again and then drives normal. Took it to a shop (needed rear pads, rear right caliper, and a tps). Problem still continued, but now my TCS OFF light and SLIP lights are on. I can't seem to diagnose any of the above problems. I'm going through an 1/8th tank of gas everytime I have to start the car. Can anyone help before I get torn apart at a dealer??
Lets begin with the cold start issue. That could either be your IACV, or, worse,
the upper intake manifold gasket needs to be replaced. I Had the same problem,
same year Maxi. My solution ended up being the Upper Intake Manifold gasket.
It's rubber, you can get it on eBay for around $10.00 Nissan. Installing this gasket, isn't rocket science, but, it AINT easy either. If you're going to DIY. Plan on about 6hrs, round trip, stuff off, stuff on.
The price of an IACV,
on eBay, is anywhere from $38.00 - $75.00+. I would try Amazon, if you have a
Prime amazon acct. You can get it shipped to you, really fast. Installing the IACV
is really not that big of a deal.
The other stuff, sounds like a MAF sensor, in combination with a TPS. Your CEL should be on. I would first start, by having an auto parts store read the codes for you.
Just keep in mind, that most, if not, all the parts you need, you can buy, on eBay/Amazon for very reasonable prices.
Anybody know of current purchase options for headers/y-pipe for an 02 SE 6speed? I know a lot of the older products mentioned on the org are no longer in production. My google-fu is proving fruitless. I found a set of altima headers for dirt cheap.. http://www.protuninglab.com/hds-na02v6.html trying to avoid the inevitable fab work that comes with installing them on the Max.
Main goal is to get rid of the precats. If I can't find headers, i'll just gut em and call it a day..
Current mods, 6" aem dryflow, vibrant bellmouth.
thx
Anybody know of current purchase options for headers/y-pipe for an 02 SE 6speed? I know a lot of the older products mentioned on the org are no longer in production. My google-fu is proving fruitless. I found a set of altima headers for dirt cheap.. http://www.protuninglab.com/hds-na02v6.html trying to avoid the inevitable fab work that comes with installing them on the Max.
Main goal is to get rid of the precats. If I can't find headers, i'll just gut em and call it a day..
Current mods, 6" aem dryflow, vibrant bellmouth.
thx
Go on facebook bro people make them to fit right in with no problem go and find my my5thgen maxima forum and ask for thomas perdue
Go on facebook bro people make them to fit right in with no problem go and find my my5thgen maxima forum and ask for thomas perdue
Awesome. I'm on my5th gen, i'll look him up. anyone else on facebook users or groups you know of specifically for the headers? I'm not really up on social media. thx
Awesome. I'm on my5th gen, i'll look him up. anyone else on facebook users or groups you know of specifically for the headers? I'm not really up on social media. thx
i don't remember by name just make a post and ask for someone who makes headers people will be able to tell you
New to here and New to the Maxima. Ive got a 2003 with the HID's and cant seem to find information as to how to adjust the HID portion of the headlights. The beam hits the ground between 6 and 10 feet from the front of the car. It seems that the adjuster I found adjusts the "High Beams" only.... Am I missing something or did something get broke before I got it. Any information as to where I can find the information would be greatly appreciated.
New to here and New to the Maxima. Ive got a 2003 with the HID's and cant seem to find information as to how to adjust the HID portion of the headlights. The beam hits the ground between 6 and 10 feet from the front of the car. It seems that the adjuster I found adjusts the "High Beams" only.... Am I missing something or did something get broke before I got it. Any information as to where I can find the information would be greatly appreciated.
I can't answer you question. Are both left & right the same?
Why don't you post this in the regular section instead of the I am new here section. More people will see the post there.
I posted here because, well, I'm new here and I have a question. Not trying to me cross but some information as to where to look that might be helpful would be nice. I've searched and cant find the answers Im looking for yet. I will ask in the Gen 5 thread though. Merry Christmas.
I have a 02 i35 and need to change the valve covers and gaskets. Can anyone recommend a site/brand for these parts. Also let me know if there is anything else I should be changing while doing this. I plan on doing the spark plugs and intake manifold gasket as well. part numbers would be awesome! thanks!
10-19-2016, 12:40 AM
