blower motor not working.
#1
blower motor not working.
I have a 2k3 6speed. my blower motor is not working after i pulled the radio out and the climate control out. I check and check many times, plugged every wire right. Is there a procedure to resett the climate control after being unplugged???
#4
I've not personally heard of this issue. You might check your fuse panel. If you accidentally crossed a plug (I don't know how you could), you might have blown a fuse. Other than that, all I can suggest is breaking out a volt meter. Check to see that you have power coming in, and then check the voltage coming out at each fan setting. Maybe someone here can chime in on the schematics for you. I lost all my factory service manuals years ago when I sold the max. Now that I'm about to buy another 03, I'll have to find them again.
#6
check fuses
check amplifier
check motor
I did something very stupid about this, and I ended up getting new blower motor and amplifier(resistor).
bad blower motor can kill the resistor.
check amplifier
check motor
I did something very stupid about this, and I ended up getting new blower motor and amplifier(resistor).
bad blower motor can kill the resistor.
Last edited by jasonmax; 12-19-2007 at 02:42 PM.
#8
#11
I notice that after you repluging the ACHU, the computer in HU will check the position of the valves
but it could be the fuses
Last edited by jasonmax; 12-19-2007 at 07:27 PM.
#12
If the fuses are good, then I would take some time and effort to take it all apart and make sure you didn't forget to plug in a set of connectors. As you wrote, it happened after you took the climate control out, so I think it's dirrectly related.
#13
he said his HU was working.
#14
#15
#16
My vote is on the amplifier. If the auto climate control display works fine and simply nothing coming from vents on any speed, it's usually the amplifier. I found this out the hard way, pulled everything out and tested it all independently. Got a new amplifier, works perfectly.
#17
well i ordered the blower amplifer(resister) fromt he dealer so i guess its the only thing left. Only thing that bothers me is that the blower was working fine before i pulled the climate control out.
#18
After changing eight fuses, my blower motor killed the amplifier.
#19
also is the climate unit connected with the maf. Im starting to get the code p0300 after all this. multiple cylinder misfire. I had no problem what so ever before all this happened.
#20
#22
#24
problem fixed.. The code i was getting on my display unit on my climate control was for the sun load sensor thats on the dash. After i replaced the sensor, everything was gooooooooodddddd.
#25
#28
well, from what I'm reading it sounds like I need a new blower motor resistor, am I right????? Here's what happened----all of the sudden I am not getting any air from any of the vents, but the electronic climate control seems to be working fine, switches modes, temp, and speed but nothing from the vents???? Am I correct????
#29
well, from what I'm reading it sounds like I need a new blower motor resistor, am I right????? Here's what happened----all of the sudden I am not getting any air from any of the vents, but the electronic climate control seems to be working fine, switches modes, temp, and speed but nothing from the vents???? Am I correct????
#30
Soo... I've replaced my resistor. Checked all fuses and relays. Hard wired the motor, it works. After doing so when I put it all back together it started working. This is the next day and it won't work again. Any ideas?? Before all of this it only worked on high then stopped working but for a few days it would randomly turn on.
#33
In the manual system, the power for the blower motor is routed as follows:
1) battery to
2) two fuses under the hood to
3) blower motor relay to
4) blower motor to
5) blower motor resistor only for speeds 1 2 and 3
6) fan speed selector switch in dash
7) ground
If the blower motor does not work at all, especially high speed, the fan resistor is not the problem. The relay, the blower motor, the switch in the dash and the wiring are suspect.
I hope you have a volt meter because that is what you need to troubleshoot this problem.
At the blower motor resistor, with the wire harness plugged in, measure the voltage between chassis ground and the blue with white stripe wire. With the fan speed switch set to off, turn the ignition switch to ON. The volt meter should read 12 volts or close to it.
If you have 12 volts, turn the fan speed selector switch to speed 1 (low speed). The voltage reading should drop to less than 12 (I don't really know the exact number). Turn the switch to speed 2 and the voltage will drop again. Same for speed 3. When you put the speed selector switch in speed 4 (high speed), the voltage should be almost 0 volts.
If you had 12 volts when you started measuring voltage and had 0 volts when you put the speed selector switch in high speed position, the blower motor should have been running. If it was not, you have a bad blower motor.
If you had 12 volts when you started measuring voltage and it never changed when you changed the fan speed selector switch, you have either a bad fan speed switch or the ground to the control panel is missing.
Do these checks and report back. There are a few more tests if the above stuff doesn't uncover anything. For the record, I'm betting you have a bad blower motor. Turn the blower motor on and if it isn't running, tap the motor lightly with a hammer or a screwdriver handle or whatever. Don't beat the thing like an enraged gorilla (unless you are really frustrated and fed up), maybe something like when you are knocking kinda loud on a door. If the motor starts to run, you have a bad motor. If it still doesn't run, the motor could still be bad, we just haven't proved it yet.
1) battery to
2) two fuses under the hood to
3) blower motor relay to
4) blower motor to
5) blower motor resistor only for speeds 1 2 and 3
6) fan speed selector switch in dash
7) ground
If the blower motor does not work at all, especially high speed, the fan resistor is not the problem. The relay, the blower motor, the switch in the dash and the wiring are suspect.
I hope you have a volt meter because that is what you need to troubleshoot this problem.
At the blower motor resistor, with the wire harness plugged in, measure the voltage between chassis ground and the blue with white stripe wire. With the fan speed switch set to off, turn the ignition switch to ON. The volt meter should read 12 volts or close to it.
If you have 12 volts, turn the fan speed selector switch to speed 1 (low speed). The voltage reading should drop to less than 12 (I don't really know the exact number). Turn the switch to speed 2 and the voltage will drop again. Same for speed 3. When you put the speed selector switch in speed 4 (high speed), the voltage should be almost 0 volts.
If you had 12 volts when you started measuring voltage and had 0 volts when you put the speed selector switch in high speed position, the blower motor should have been running. If it was not, you have a bad blower motor.
If you had 12 volts when you started measuring voltage and it never changed when you changed the fan speed selector switch, you have either a bad fan speed switch or the ground to the control panel is missing.
Do these checks and report back. There are a few more tests if the above stuff doesn't uncover anything. For the record, I'm betting you have a bad blower motor. Turn the blower motor on and if it isn't running, tap the motor lightly with a hammer or a screwdriver handle or whatever. Don't beat the thing like an enraged gorilla (unless you are really frustrated and fed up), maybe something like when you are knocking kinda loud on a door. If the motor starts to run, you have a bad motor. If it still doesn't run, the motor could still be bad, we just haven't proved it yet.
#34
Ok... I'll be honest. I've never really used a multimeter before. I'm pretty sure I have everything where it needs to be and touching the wires while it's plugged in and I'm not getting anything. Also there is a fuse panel next to my battery that doesn't have a lid and I'm not sure what is what. I'm having trouble finding a diagram for that. So I'm unsure if I'm the dumb dumb because I can't work a multimeter or at this point a fuse is blown. Or relay.
#35
the fuses for the blower motor are under the hood by the battery. But you said the motor worked once after putting the car together, so the fuses had to be good at that time. It is of course possible that they (there are 2 fuses) could have blown out since then.
What you can try is to unplug the connector from the blower motor resistor and apply ground to the blue with white stripe wire. With the ignition key on, the blower motor should run at high speed. If not, the fuses or relay or blower motor is bad. You could do this with the wire connector plugged on, just make sure the fan speed switch is in the OFF position.
Do you have a friend or someone that can use a voltmeter? Without being able to test things, your only option is to swap out parts. That can get expensive when you guess wrong.
What you can try is to unplug the connector from the blower motor resistor and apply ground to the blue with white stripe wire. With the ignition key on, the blower motor should run at high speed. If not, the fuses or relay or blower motor is bad. You could do this with the wire connector plugged on, just make sure the fan speed switch is in the OFF position.
Do you have a friend or someone that can use a voltmeter? Without being able to test things, your only option is to swap out parts. That can get expensive when you guess wrong.
#38
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